MUSA Wooden Vape
- Thread starter f2j
- Start date
no design change. the body still has the same diameter.
Abysmal Vapor
Supersniffer 2000 - robot fart detection device
Amazing craftsmanship and lovely wood grain! What type of wood is this ? Is it the same as the other MUSAs ,they look like walnut to me ?
thank you very much! they are all made out of walnut wood
Every vape looks different and im always excited how they came out, finished.
pareidolia
Well-Known Member
What kind of halogen bulb does this use, 12V DC? How is power controlled, is it PWM?
Abysmal Vapor
Supersniffer 2000 - robot fart detection device
As far as i know it uses a 12v Osram 50w . Power is controlled by a rotary dimmer,probably some kind of pwm/speed controller.
lazylathe
Almost there...
The answer was on the 1st page.
Controlled by a rheostat so no PWM.
http://fuckcombustion.com/threads/musa-wooden-vape.23239/#post-1065335
pareidolia
Well-Known Member
I saw the picture of the tiny box. Are you sure it's fit to contain a rheostat and the inevitable heat it's going to dissipate?
lazylathe
Almost there...
This is a question you should ask the manufacturer.
It runs off 12 volts as well and the rheostats are good and have a heat sink.
If you looked at the pictures on IG you would have also seen that it runs off a power brick!
This converts mains AC to a DC 12V output, not a lot of heat at this voltage.
So it is good to go!
@MUSA Vaporizer
Can you confirm?
blokenoname
DIY Log Dabbler 😁🪵💪💨💨💨
Simply write him a message via the forum software or contact him via his Instagram site.
Seek
Apprentice Daydreamer
This vape looks really interesting. It is like a child of my favourite two vapes (nano and evo) AND it's made in germany?
My VAS was dead for a long time since I got the evo and nano.
This is the first vape in the last years, that has awoken it once again.
Basically the only thing I would like to see changed would be the bottom air intake. I think it would be better if it was top intake like e-nano.
Which imo would be easy to do - just make a hole in the bottom of the glass cover and remove the hole on the bottom.
A top intake would be cleaner and wouldn't need a screen. And it could preheat the incoming air before it goes to the heater.
Also I'm more in favor of the fully protruding joint, so it can be directly attached to recessed joint, llike my Mobius Ion, or VapeXhale hydratubes.
Also if the bowl is too near to the heater, it may cause hotspots. When its further away, the heated air has some space to mix and spread its heat, making the heat distribution more uniform.
250 euros also seem like a reasonable price given the glass parts and a ligtbulb heater.
I'm not going to buy one right now, because of budget, but I'm certainly going to keep my eye on this thread.
My VAS was dead for a long time since I got the evo and nano.
This is the first vape in the last years, that has awoken it once again.
Basically the only thing I would like to see changed would be the bottom air intake. I think it would be better if it was top intake like e-nano.
Which imo would be easy to do - just make a hole in the bottom of the glass cover and remove the hole on the bottom.
A top intake would be cleaner and wouldn't need a screen. And it could preheat the incoming air before it goes to the heater.
Also I'm more in favor of the fully protruding joint, so it can be directly attached to recessed joint, llike my Mobius Ion, or VapeXhale hydratubes.
Also if the bowl is too near to the heater, it may cause hotspots. When its further away, the heated air has some space to mix and spread its heat, making the heat distribution more uniform.
250 euros also seem like a reasonable price given the glass parts and a ligtbulb heater.
I'm not going to buy one right now, because of budget, but I'm certainly going to keep my eye on this thread.
blokenoname
DIY Log Dabbler 😁🪵💪💨💨💨
The glass heater cover runs all the way through from top to bottom of the body and rests directly on the air intake hole at the bottom, with only the 2 ss wires entering from below, by means of two tiny recesses in the wood. Fine for me. And "... just making a hole..." into glass is easier said, than actually done. Not even Alan does this with his glass heater cover in the HI, but has the air entering the glass cover through its bottom opening instead (his ss heater covers have slits, though).
Preheating the air is really unnecessary, with this beast of a 50W heater. Such tricks come into play, when you've got a limited heat source, such as a resistor, that can't put out more heat, than ~250°C, but not with a heater, that can easily put out twice that heat whenever need be.
The centre channel of the MUSA is about 35 mm. Ample space on all sides. But I've no idea, how far recessed your joints actually are, cause I don't own the mentioned vapes.
Hope that helps
Preheating the air is really unnecessary, with this beast of a 50W heater. Such tricks come into play, when you've got a limited heat source, such as a resistor, that can't put out more heat, than ~250°C, but not with a heater, that can easily put out twice that heat whenever need be.
The centre channel of the MUSA is about 35 mm. Ample space on all sides. But I've no idea, how far recessed your joints actually are, cause I don't own the mentioned vapes.
Hope that helps
sativa2liter
lost in orbit
holy smokes this thing looks wicked! I've always found halogen heating elements to be very interesting but none were in a vaporizer format that suited me until now. If I wasn't on a few waitlists already I would jump on this, but until then I'll just lurk and watch how this develops 
Mr. Gweilo 420
Dude
Try @MUSA Vaporizer by pm here.
KingSol
Active Member
Thank you much.
I changed to a 35W heating element to make the power supply a little bit more compact. It still has much more power than needed.
I use a high quality german power supply!
I use a high quality german power supply!
Abysmal Vapor
Supersniffer 2000 - robot fart detection device
That black and white photo looks really classy ! Good move on changing the power adapter,smaller = better,I have found 35 watts are best for vaping purpose of all osram 2-pin series ,tried all between 20w- 75w in my Halo-log DIYs . Same performance as the rest and less load on the PSU ,and less heat projected to the body.
Thanks @Abysmal Vapor
@Abysmal Vapor
