Only if they are not polished or clean enough if they are ruby. As for thermal shock to memory Corundum has a higher temp range than Quart to memory. Problem with making a ruby injector head is working the stuff. Its a pig to do by hand,stuff is almost hard as diamond. I have a design and have worked out how to do it in a small workshop. But it will be a slog.
Silicine Carbide balls are known as self lubricating ball bearings for a reason. They do not have a coating or produce an oil, the surface can be soo smooth it has almost no friction- hence the 'self lubricating' description you will see sometimes. On spec, they appear to be the Dogs Nuts.(means v.good) And beautiful to boot. Good on You
@tinctorus.
Partly i made them to go in my Diy,Ceroma and Qaroma, to see how it would affect the taste, and how they differ from corundum terp pills the same size. Figure it would taste a little like a titanium head with rubies and quartz in but in reverse- titanium on top of rubies inside quartz, Boro or ceramic.
The difference would, i think , be due to different thermal properties as well as down to the taste of the material itself. Ruby and Titanium seem to taste different in the mouth, (put some in my gob to check) but if you try the taste test,
dont swollow the pills !!!
If you used titanium ear studs as terp balls they would have been grade 5. people mistakenly think it is hypoalergenic, but is alloyed with metals some react to.
Grade 2 is more hypoallergenic, from my research, not an alloy but is adjusted to alter oxygen species contained in the metal to alter workability in various ways. Only some grades of titanium are not alloys.
You appear to be capable,sensible and knowledgeable, but i have to say be careful. Please take precautions (rubber gloves, dont touch both positive and negative, ect) High voltage can kill you. High ampage will speed the process, but can cause issues and is dangerous.
Avoid touching the anode to the cathode, if titanium touches steel it will cause an arc that can damage the surface of your titanium and mess up the process.
Wait till your 150volt power supply arrives, good choice, im jeaous mines only 120 volt! when you get your 150volt its worth doing your own colour chart as power supplies can vary slightly with there results.(have to dig around more to find mine)
That said, if you take it to 120volts, its still anodised but the oxide coating gets thick enough to go grey again, but offers a little more protection.
Start low and go slow.
If you go higher voltage/colour than you want it can be undone with an acid soak or abrasion.
You dont have to use a strong nasty acid to pickle it first, but weaker acids take longer. To me, i would rather wait a little longer and use something less toxic.
Polishing the titanium to different levels makes a difference to the colour and lustre. best colour seems to come from high polish first then matted down a little. That is partly what a strong acid soak does, so using a mild acid makes this more nesassary. Only from my experience, still learning,
alot of peaple seem to thinkthe acid bath is vital, but thats after they polish it using a buffing wheel and WAX compound abrasives. You really dont want wax or oils on your Titanium when you anodise it
CLEAN TITANIUM IS EVERYTHING. Or it wont work. No grease. At all. My terp pills are still soaking in a mild acid bath. May get them anodised later tonight. Partly why im going to make an injector head using an arizer bowl, as i can fill it with terp pills and they will fit better (and i dont have to risk my qaroma). Expansion concerns me.
The green is fairly high voltage,around 100volts. Purple colour is around 85volts. Thats just to memory,need to dig out my colour chart.
Fingers hurt more later.
