Iolite vaporiser

[max]

The herb chamber is the removeble section, where you screw in the mouthpiece. The heat pin is attached to the bottom of the bowl (main unit). So I don't follow you. I'm sure it's a terminology problem, as far as my not understanding your problem, but the herb chamber has a screen at the top on the inside, and the mouthpiece screws into the top of the herb chamber on the outside, so unless someone else is less dense on this than me, you may have to reword your issue.

 

[Jive Turkey]

Yeah, I figured this would be hard to understand. I agree with your definitions of the herb chamber and the heat pin, so here we go.

Take out your herb chamber, and look at the bottom of it. See the silver cylindrical piece of metal where you stick your herb? That cylinder that you see on your herb chamber is attached to my actual UNIT - the mouthpiece comes off, but that silver cylinder still stuck on my heat pin.

Does that make more sense?

 

[lime_joe]

i forgot to mention that the replacement plastic mouthpieces are lasting longer than the original mouthpieces. I think the material is stronger also because the vapors are much more visible. i'm on my 3rd replacement though so i'm just waiting for the SS replacement in the meantime.

 

[Zemis]

Hey Jive Turkey my suggestion would be to restart unit allow it to heat up the screen part may be easier to remove once heated. (if I am understanding problem right)

Just reread your post is it the 7 hole screen that attached to the pin? That is a removable item so I could see it possible getting stuck to pin. It really shouldn't be on there to tight I would try the heat ideal and maybe very carefully try spinning or wiggling it off.

 

[yolky]

Thank you for the followup email IOLite. I have sent you an email at the address you provided. I didn't include my home address but will send it to you now just in case. Thank you for your time. Great customer service!

 

[Jive Turkey]

I got the cylinder out.

I had to heat it up, then pry it out gently with a pair of pliers.

Whew! Glad that's over, hehe. Thanks guys.

 

[gfish15]

I have one of the Original models and have left the unit on vaping for an entire 2 hours and the mouth piece never had any problems.

i find that using a rubber band to hold the "bowl" in place helps a lot and especially with the addition of tubing. i have the removable heat pin and i was wondering when you guys talk about putting vape in the bottom of the unit around the heat pin would this work better if i removed the pin or if i kept it on. To be honest im not really sure what this heat pin does exactly.

 

[perspectionist]

I also have an original "I-Inhale". Although I have a job where I work with strippable small screws all day, I managed to strip the heating pin after having the unit for about a month. I tried the unit without the pin and it still works fine. I don't have another unit to compare to (and I didn't have it long enough) but I found that the draw is easier. The only difference is that the unit cools a bit quicker making it activate a bit more than usual. More herb fits into the chamber too. I have been using it this way for for the past 9 months with nearly daily use.

 

[usr/share/vape]

Well, my stem broke off today - the day of my birthday. What are the odds?

50%.

 

[Lo]

50%

LMAO!!! Thanks for that laugh!

 

[Zemis]

Well got to say I am a little disappointed today Just got word that they repaired my unit but there holding all repaired units till the new mouthpiece comes out.

According to the rep here there *hoping* to start shipping out the 19 that's another 10 days. Even if they ship mine the 19 that's going be over a month turnaround for a repair.

I understand that there doing this due to the issues with the current stems and can understand the reasoning. However I did write back asking to just send unit without stem (have a few old style that have worked the last 6 months) hopefully they at least consider my request.

Edit
Just have to add after writing this I checked email and they responded back that they let me know on Monday. So I really hoping now they ship it out on Monday.

 

[ModernMogul]

So as you guys may know from my earlier posts, both of my nozzles broke the second day i got the iolite, on my 2nd and 3rd times using it... Well, when I originally bought the iolite I ordered the three pack of nozzles just in case... So, I just got the three pack nozzles in the mail, yesterday... i was a lil excited about it, but too tired last night after work to try them out... So this morning I go to use them... skrew them in, turn the switch on, i can hear the thing going... BUT, when I push the igniter button, nothing happens, no light turn on or anything, I just keep hearing the very low noise it normally makes before you hit the switch to turn the light on...

I am still at work now, so haven~t really had a chance to refill it, but do you guys think that it just needs to be refilled... I am honestly having a rough start with this thing...

But on the flip side, I did receive a response from iolite telling me that they will ship me 2 new nozzles...

Have to resort back to the old methods until I get the nozzles, or refill this thing... :/

 

[willieR]

Refill, since it hisses even when gas is low. Look for the little spark also. If there's a spark + Butane you will have combustion.

Also, ditch the cheap Butane if that's what you're using.

 

[ModernMogul]

Cool Cool, thanks bro... will do... but no cheap butane here...

 

[UrDoinItWrong]

6. From a .5g packed bowl, it seems i'm able to take around 10 cycles, maybe a little more, before the herb is spent.

You should be getting WAAAyyyyyy more time with a bowl pack then that. I typically can still get visible vapor even after 15-20 min of puffing on a bowl. Make sure you're using triple refined or better butane, and just let it heat up for a few cycles before really hitting on it. Mine starts to produce visible vapor after 3-5 cycles, and goes for COUNTLESS cycles. I kick bowls when I no longer get visible vapor. I think you may just need to work on your draw technique, if you draw too hard or too soft you don't get optimal vapor. I find I get the thickest vapor when I just "match" the draw resistance with my draw power and don't try to pull harder than that...if that makes any sense, haha.

One tip that works great for me that I haven't seen on here is in how to pack it. I fill it to the brim but using a toothpick or my stirrer I make a little space/channel in the herb for the heat-pin to slide into so I don't mash/ram the herb up against the tiny hole in the center of the bowl screen. I find this gives me WAY better airflow and draw rate, and I get more visible vapor as well.

ModernMogul- This seems to happen to all Iolites at some point, perhaps from an air bubble getting in there or sometimes if you don't wait 5 min after filling it. When mine does this on occasion, I just click it on and wait for a minute or so, and usually the gas flow just steadily increases to an ignitable point. I sometimes find that if I give it a little shake when it's doing this, it can also dislodge the air bubble. Sometimes it just needs to be purged of air and refilled, as an air bubble is all that can really temporarily mess this thing up. But fear not, these devices are weird and fickle at times...I completely freaked when I got mine because of how it pulsed and stuttered when starting up and while heating occasionally, I thought it was shitty and defective, haha. But now I never worry when it starts to act retarded or anything, because that's just the nature and inconsistency of butane power I guess.

 

[yolky]

I performed a test today with my IOLITE, suggested to me by IOLITE's tech support:

1. I filled the herb chamber to capacity with Sage, as Sage's vapor point is almost identical to our favorite spice. I was careful not to over pack it and made sure there was "breathable" space.

2. I purged ALL remaining butane out of the butane nozzle located on the IOLITE by using the small end of the metal tool supplied with the IOLITE. I purged the nozzle by applying downward pressure on the valve. I repeated this process for approximately 3 minutes, at which time I could no longer hear any kind of gas or air being released.

3. I then filled the IOLITE using Vector x5 refined butane until I got just the slightest over spill of butane coming out of the unit. The slight over spill is to ensure the IOLITE's fuel tank is at maximum capacity. I wiped off residual over spill on the unit.

At 12:15 PM

4. After I waited approx 3 or so minutes after the refill, I switched the IOLITE to the on position, waited three seconds and clicked the piezo buton. I could see blue pilot light, but did not turn orange. I then attempted a series of clicks, spacing it out a few seconds. After aprox 4 or 5 clicks, the blue turned to orange and the unit adjusted to normal operating temperature.

5. I let the IOLITE sit on its side. The IOLITE would keep its constant temperature for approx 30-35 seconds, at which time the thermostat system would re-engage for approx 4 seconds.

6. This cycle persisted for a total duration of just under 2 hours, at which time the heating element was no longer able to heat up as all remaining butane was spent. The experiment started at 12:15 PM and ended at 2:10 PM.

Conclusions:
- The IOLITE representative's claim that the unit will run for a continuous 2 hours on one full tank of butane is pretty much accurate however there is a caveat:

This experiment in my opinion doesn't test the IOLITE in Normal Operating Conditions as there was no inhalation of the Sage (or our favorite spice). It is my belief that when you inhale the product, the chamber's temperature will reduce quicker, activating the thermostat more frequently and therefore using more fuel. It's almost like a comparison of a car manufacturer claiming that their vehicle gets an estimated 40mpg, only to find out that they arrived at that figure by calculating the mpg average when the vehicle is on cruise control, I.E. not normal operating conditions. Yes, the vehicle might be able to get 40mpg, but if you live in downtown L.A. that figure doesn't apply so much.

I still maintain that under normal operating conditions on one full tank of highly refined butane, the IOLITE is able to provide use for approx 4 full bowls of spice. Given this performance, I am pleased with it enough, especially if using it primarily for on the go occasions.

Hopefully this answers some questions people might have regarding consumption efficiency of the butane system. I hope this experiment was helpful and informative.

 

[indigal]

One tip from here I found very useful, which I have not tested with the above (very good) procedure is to "pump" the butane in shorter bursts as you fill. I found for whatever reason that it took in what I most def perceived as more butane and that fill lasted me longer than previous fills.

 

[yolky]

I need some assistance regarding the Cleaning of the IOLITE. This thread has so many pages that I cannot begin to find directions for this. After performing the above experiment, I want to clean out my IOLITE from any residual sage smell. My question is regarding the Chamber part of the device and how to properly disassemble it so I can soak the screen etc. Once I have removed the chamber from the IOLITE and have unscrewed the mouthpiece from the chamber then what? The manual would have me believe I take that metal tool using the narrow side, and going from the top down, apply downward force to pop out the screen?! I believe I have the newest version of the IOLITE as it came with a Manual Update brochure and it has the Non-removable heat exchange pin.If anyone could clarify this I would really appreciate it. A youtube video of an actual cleaning of the IOLITE would be great.

 

[yolky]

One tip from here I found very useful, which I have not tested with the above (very good) procedure is to "pump" the butane in shorter bursts as you fill. I found for whatever reason that it took in what I most def perceived as more butane and that fill lasted me longer than previous fills.

Thanks for the reply and recommendation. Regarding your quote, coincidentally or not, that is exactly how I filled the butane chamber, with 2-3 second bursts as you have described.

For those wondering about what this is regarding, please go to page 60 and scroll all the way to the bottom for the experiment I performed.

 

[indigal]

I need some assistance regarding the Cleaning of the IOLITE. This thread has so many pages that I cannot begin to find directions for this. After performing the above experiment, I want to clean out my IOLITE from any residual sage smell. My question is regarding the Chamber part of the device and how to properly disassemble it so I can soak the screen etc. Once I have removed the chamber from the IOLITE and have unscrewed the mouthpiece from the chamber then what? The manual would have me believe I take that metal tool using the narrow side, and going from the top down, apply downward force to pop out the screen?! I believe I have the newest version of the IOLITE as it came with a Manual Update brochure and it has the Non-removable heat exchange pin.If anyone could clarify this I would really appreciate it. A youtube video of an actual cleaning of the IOLITE would be great.

Yep- unscrew the mouthpiece and use that tool to press the screen and retainer ring out from the top. I also usually remove the metal chamber itself from the plastic housing and soak it and the tube with Everclear. A few cleanings and that solution gets pretty potent. I end up being able to use about 1/4-1/2 shot in a drink and get very lit from the residue. I use a qtip and acetone to clean out the lower chamber around the pin.

 

[yolky]

Thanks for the tips brotha. Yeah, it seems when I apply a decent amount of downward force to try to dislodge the screen it won't budge. I'll try using a q-tip and soak it in IPA and try to remove any "gunk", and then try using the tool to push the screen through.

Another question man... how do you remove the bowl from the actual plastic housing unit. I'd like to do that too. Thanks again.

Well, I soaked a q-tip in IPA and cleaned the screen mesh in the chamber, but i'm still unable to get the screen out. It really seems like in order to do it you need to remove the chamber bowl from its plastic housing, and then poking it through the opposite way. I'm kinda stuck right now.

Ok, after letting my nuts hang, I applied a very good amount of pressure using the metal tool which finally freed the screen and retention ring from the chamber. Now to just get the metal chamber bowl away from its plastic housing.

 

[indigal]

Heat it up a couple cycles first.. it gets the residue softer and lets it be pushed out with just a fair amount of pressure. I also did not realize that the metal chamber comes out until mine loosened up a bit from a few weeks of usage. If your chamber doesn't pop out, don't worry over it too much. It's one of those things that when you unscrew the plastic stub (best also done warm BTW) you may be able to pop it out..

 

[yolky]

You were correct, the metal chamber bowl eventually just loosened up and came right out. Didn't even have to apply heat, just soaked the circumference in IPA using my Q-Tip. One final question I have. When reinserting the mesh back into the metal chamber bowl, which way does it go in? Do you want the 7-hole facing up (so that the holes are closest to you if you are looking say inhaling on the IOLITE? Or do you want the 7-holes to be facing down (closest to the heat pin)?

 

[indigal]

You were correct, the metal chamber bowl eventually just loosened up and came right out. Didn't even have to apply heat, just soaked the circumference in IPA using my Q-Tip. One final question I have. When reinserting the mesh back into the metal chamber bowl, which way does it go in? Do you want the 7-hole facing up (so that the holes are closest to you if you are looking say inhaling on the IOLITE? Or do you want the 7-holes to be facing down (closest to the heat pin)?

Lots of mods on this thread on the best way..check them out. I believe the original way is mesh towards the pin then retaining ring. The other way just clogs too fast imo.

 

[yolky]

You were correct, the metal chamber bowl eventually just loosened up and came right out. Didn't even have to apply heat, just soaked the circumference in IPA using my Q-Tip. One final question I have. When reinserting the mesh back into the metal chamber bowl, which way does it go in? Do you want the 7-hole facing up (so that the holes are closest to you if you are looking say inhaling on the IOLITE? Or do you want the 7-holes to be facing down (closest to the heat pin)?

Lots of mods on this thread on the best way..check them out. I believe the original way is mesh towards the pin then retaining ring. The other way just clogs too fast imo.

Mesh towards the heat pin makes the most sense to me as well, this is why. When you want to dislodge the mesh screen from the metal chamber bowl, you need to use ample force with that metal tool, from the top down. If the mesh is facing up (away from the heat pin), you're much more likely to poke a whole through the mesh. But if the 7 hole is facing up, the pressure isn't applied directly to the mesh.

Thanks again man for all of your input.