Discontinued Inhalater XP

Inhalater

Well-Known Member
Manufacturer
@vaplen Not sure if this certain indication of malfunction. So long as the unit runs 12 cycles approx after a 6 hours of charge things are good.

In any event sending the unit to us back and forth is about 2 weeks cost is around 8$USD with provided recomendations at link below. We supply a free capsule to cover the charge on unit that proved warranty issues.

@Wolf46 MSRP is 10$USD at the moment.

@Belgianvapor A cause for bumby heating chamber is when the unit is dropped. Components get crushed momentary on the fall. There are no know issue other than imperfect conduction when using the unit like this.You may try to push the bump back in as operated by Sonics420 at one point. In anycase we may service for you if needed
 
Inhalater,
  • Like
Reactions: Vitolo

hiphiphooray

Well-Known Member
@vaplen, are you 100% certain that it doesn't work? It may just be an LED problem or that your Vaporizer is already charged. Just because you are messing with it and making the light come on doesn't mean its necessarily broken. My unit does that too.

If I run my XP all day and burn out the battery, I can charge it and watch the light come on. I leave it that way overnight, but when I wake up in the morning the light is off. Then if I use it for a quick session and put it back on the charger, the light won't come on (because its already basically full battery). If I slant the cable slightly or apply some pressure, the light comes back on for as long as I do that.

My microUSB for my phone does the same thing. If I use my phone for about an hour it will still say my phone is at 100% and plugging it in to charge does nothing. To fix this misleading battery indicator on my phone, I had to do a few deep cycle discharges on my phone and recalibrate the battery.

All Li-ion batteries have finite life cycles and need calibrated frequently to be perfectly accurate.

TLDR: You unit may still work and is just poorly calibrated. Try using up a significant amount of the battery and then putting it on the charger. If it manages to die completely and is unable to charge back to life, then you have a problem.
 

Old School

Vape13man
Since a few days I noticed that my abv did not come out evenly at all anymore, at the
top of the capsule it stays very light, this part is deepest in the xp.
When i looked in the xp with a light, I saw that the orange marterial at the bottom
was a little bit wrinkled up.
I can still insert my capsule easily.
Can I still use it or should I mail Inhalater?
By the way, my xp goes to 8 and then auto, at seven abv is black.
I noticed Greg responded to you so that was awesome.... and I figured you might benefit from a bit more detail of whats actually down there....
I was about to respond to you about the screen possibly being clogged but you said you clean it often so I'm going to assume that you also remove that screen deep in the heat chamber and clean it... you may over time also clog the air pathway openings which are small divots directly beneath the screen we all clean and those will collect crumbs restricting normal airflow.... I use a very small dental type tool to break up those crumbs and tapping them out.....
All that about the gap and oven crinkling do to overheating.....from your description it sounds like you have a Q2 XP {we miss ours} anyway if it did over heat and crinkle.... I would recommend trying to repair it {reshape it} just after you have finished off a cap and had it nice and hot..... I think I might try a brand new pencil with a good new eraser on it....and I would make smooth even smooth strokes to the side where you see the gap the most.....applying slight pressure to the wall to encourage it to straighten out..... I find that this material likes to return to its original form....but don't get to crazy with it.... it may also go back on it's own or if you are not successful on your 1st try... try a couple of times.....just be gentle zero force....slight rub...
@vaplen, are you 100% certain that it doesn't work? It may just be an LED problem or that your Vaporizer is already charged. Just because you are messing with it and making the light come on doesn't mean its necessarily broken. My unit does that too.

If I run my XP all day and burn out the battery, I can charge it and watch the light come on. I leave it that way overnight, but when I wake up in the morning the light is off. Then if I use it for a quick session and put it back on the charger, the light won't come on (because its already basically full battery). If I slant the cable slightly or apply some pressure, the light comes back on for as long as I do that.
I have my gal's Q4 XP having this very same issue Vaplen is having.....and since I also have a normal {so far knock on wood} functioning Q4 XP I can tell you with confidence that if I wake up and my unit is off and I touch it... or move the cable it does not come back on....and if I click it on while still on the charger the charger light immediately comes on....in fact I have in the past when unsure if it had a full charge I would click it on just for a quick sec and then within minutes 5-10 that light was right back off....indicating that it was charged.....I have also noticed that I can go from house to car and if charged it comes on for a few minutes then goes off again confirming that the charge is at full....
So I'm sorry to break the bad news but yours will very likely get worse and eventually stop charging altogether.... just remember easy on the twisting..... I had a friend at the beach who watched me click mine off and on again...so he asked me how to do that.....and my facial expression stopped him in his tracks.....I am very very careful whom I let use it and only select few are allowed to turn it...period...
I figured out that the right side of my usb port is a little too far in. I can get it to charge if I charge it a certain way but I feel this is a temporary fix. How quick is the repair process? I love how the xp works but this is kind of disappointing. I just don't want to be without one for a while :/
The first sentence in your post triggered the thought that you or someone may have twisted it just a little too hard to the right {auto} causing the USB port to recess a bit......
I hope the information I'm about to give is not CONFIDENTIAL but USB issue is being addressed in 2 ways 1st is a notch or "key" has been added to both the bodies as well as the switch circuit board and an additional measure of providing some stops on the actual switch knob....not certain as to when either method will be incorporated..... sooner the better IMO.....

I will welcome being wrong about your units and I will hope that it is in fact just the LED playing tricks on us.....:bang:
 

vaplen

Well-Known Member
I noticed Greg responded to you so that was awesome.... and I figured you might benefit from a bit more detail of whats actually down there....
I was about to respond to you about the screen possibly being clogged but you said you clean it often so I'm going to assume that you also remove that screen deep in the heat chamber and clean it... you may over time also clog the air pathway openings which are small divots directly beneath the screen we all clean and those will collect crumbs restricting normal airflow.... I use a very small dental type tool to break up those crumbs and tapping them out.....
All that about the gap and oven crinkling do to overheating.....from your description it sounds like you have a Q2 XP {we miss ours} anyway if it did over heat and crinkle.... I would recommend trying to repair it {reshape it} just after you have finished off a cap and had it nice and hot..... I think I might try a brand new pencil with a good new eraser on it....and I would make smooth even smooth strokes to the side where you see the gap the most.....applying slight pressure to the wall to encourage it to straighten out..... I find that this material likes to return to its original form....but don't get to crazy with it.... it may also go back on it's own or if you are not successful on your 1st try... try a couple of times.....just be gentle zero force....slight rub...

I have my gal's Q4 XP having this very same issue Vaplen is having.....and since I also have a normal {so far knock on wood} functioning Q4 XP I can tell you with confidence that if I wake up and my unit is off and I touch it... or move the cable it does not come back on....and if I click it on while still on the charger the charger light immediately comes on....in fact I have in the past when unsure if it had a full charge I would click it on just for a quick sec and then within minutes 5-10 that light was right back off....indicating that it was charged.....I have also noticed that I can go from house to car and if charged it comes on for a few minutes then goes off again confirming that the charge is at full....
So I'm sorry to break the bad news but yours will very likely get worse and eventually stop charging altogether.... just remember easy on the twisting..... I had a friend at the beach who watched me click mine off and on again...so he asked me how to do that.....and my facial expression stopped him in his tracks.....I am very very careful whom I let use it and only select few are allowed to turn it...period...

The first sentence in your post triggered the thought that you or someone may have twisted it just a little too hard to the right {auto} causing the USB port to recess a bit......
I hope the information I'm about to give is not CONFIDENTIAL but USB issue is being addressed in 2 ways 1st is a notch or "key" has been added to both the bodies as well as the switch circuit board and an additional measure of providing some stops on the actual switch knob....not certain as to when either method will be incorporated..... sooner the better IMO.....

I will welcome being wrong about your units and I will hope that it is in fact just the LED playing tricks on us.....:bang:
I think you might be right about the USB port but I'll use the rest of this week to look for unusual behavior. Also my USB port isn't bent a lot. It's hard to tell but its slightly slanted in towards the right. Does your usb have room to wiggle a little bit? Mine does and I was wondering if that was causing a short in the connection.Thank you for the very insightful post you gave me a different perspective to this situation.
 
vaplen,

hiphiphooray

Well-Known Member
Well that sucks. Sorry guys. Hopefully Inhalater gets on this soon. I too am very careful with my XP and tbh its rather annoying. I can't show off my XP when I am constantly in fear of the USB port breaking.

@Inhalater, Stress test on those USB ports would be nice. haha
 
hiphiphooray,
  • Like
Reactions: vaplen

Old School

Vape13man
I think you might be right about the USB port but I'll use the rest of this week to look for unusual behavior. Also my USB port isn't bent a lot. It's hard to tell but its slightly slanted in towards the right. Does your usb have room to wiggle a little bit? Mine does and I was wondering if that was causing a short in the connection.Thank you for the very insightful post you gave me a different perspective to this situation.
You are most welcome.....Yes our USB ports to move back and forth when adjusting the temp setting and or taking it all the way to the either end auto or off. IMHO that is exactly what is going on... even those gentle bumps each time you move the temp dial over time we disturb the connections.... but the worst is when a friend or family member who is unfamiliar and doesn't know that the USB port itself acts as the stopper or the "key" like your typical shaft and pulley type arrangement.....To aid in understanding/seeing what I'm referring to.....picture the knob and switch like a pulley without a "key" and the body is the shaft and our poor USB ports are having to act like they are "keys" and they are not meant to be used in this way...... so it is very important that all of us that have these earlier units should take extra care when twisting these units on/off....if your the type that really likes to know or feel the end of the switch path to be extra certain that you have it off.....well you will likely be improving your odds of see this issue sooner rather than later......can't stress this enough to all whom own one of these early units be gentle when twisting don't look for that solid stop....I even try to cut down on too much temp adjusting because of the little bumps it will feel.....good luck

P.S. I use a rubber band to both steady my cable and reduce it from feeling any additional pressure from any side to side....it so far seems to be helping or I just got a good sturdy solder flow during manufacturing....who can say but it makes me feel better having it on there.....
Well that sucks. Sorry guys. Hopefully Inhalater gets on this soon. I too am very careful with my XP and tbh its rather annoying. I can't show off my XP when I am constantly in fear of the USB port breaking.

@Inhalater, Stress test on those USB ports would be nice. haha
They have identified and already designed a clean solution and a little birdy told me they have also redesigned the knob to include additional stop protection..... so it has definitely been jumped on.....and I for one am looking forward to reporting on how well it works...so that we {they} might all get back to evolving performance and or functionality...
 
Last edited:

vaplen

Well-Known Member
now when I try to charge it starts heating up? I really think theres something wrong with this unit. I had it charging and I glance over and its flashing like its on the auto setting and then my charge light was off. Anyone know anything about this?

EDIT:Now it won't even turn on.
@Inhalater

On the website at this link "http://www.inhalater.com/shipping.html"it has this defects section on the list. Is this any different from warranty? Cause warranty is right under the defects section.

"10. Defects
We must be notified of any apparent defects immediately, however, at the latest within 7 days after delivery. We shall either remedy the defects or deliver a substitute."

I'll send it out asap if its possible to get a working XP quick. This is super disappointing too. I'm just glad I can get a hold of Inhalater online since I can't call canada. I am certain it is defected now.
 
Last edited:
vaplen,

hiphiphooray

Well-Known Member
@Old School, awesome. Inhalater seems to be stepping up there game a lot lately. Hope it stays this way :)

Anyone have advice on how to clean the inside chamber? Is an iso wipe or PBW a good idea?
 
hiphiphooray,

Vitolo

Vaporist
I clean the inside chamber very rarely....
I also squeeze out t=excess Iso, and then I carefuly go down the center not touching the walls....
...and I repeatedly drag the qtip in an upwards direction against the walls....
so that all wiping of the walls is only done in one direction...... outward.
This avoids tackiness being smeared downward.
 

vaplen

Well-Known Member
Officially sent in mine for the repair process. I didn't have it long enough to give it a full review other than I loved how it worked when it worked.
 
vaplen,
  • Like
Reactions: 2clicker

bassman

Active Member
Question for one of you experienced Inhalater xp users. How good is the taste of the herb,how long is the battery life, and how hard is it to clean? I am considering a second vape. I have an Ascent that I am very happy with, but considering getting another just to have something different.

Thanks in advance for any help.
 
bassman,

Wolf46

Vapor War Team Cap
The battery life is amazing!
My inhxp last 9-10 full cicles at various temp (1-4) (it's a lot compred to the solo or other portable units).
The cleaning process is a little tricky but for most technical details i pass the ball to other guys with a better english then mine (i'm italian).
The taste is good, not good as the solo and probably the ascent (polyamide capsule vs glass path? cmon:D)
But it's better then mflb or vulcano ballon for example.
The estraction is magnificient, with a full load, i can do 3, maybe 3 and a half cycles in the 1-4 range temperature.
At the end you are like this:smug: or :razz: or both.:D

One last advice, the inh5 is coming (i read that on the inhxp official topic), so take a moments and go there for more info.

Sorry for my bad english.
 

TransHumanC

Inhalater shill account
Well that`s not the way I would put it. It somehow balances the concentration to something very smooth. I guess taste has to do with the way herbs are heated up: conduction/convection ratio. Conduction itself having a ratio of hot/colds spots and convection a ratio of unheated air/heated air.

Sure thing is that I would never have enjoyed heating herbs to max without Aero cap as top. And every one commented that shisha was much better with the cap too bottom.

cooked.jpg
 
Last edited:
TransHumanC,

Snake Plissken

Transcendentalist
ok. Here goes.

I received my replacement unit a couple of weeks back, but wanted to really put it through some use before reporting back. Before anyone questions the quality of meds used I have run in between 1/4 and 1/2 oz of the following disp meds: Obama kush, green queen, animal cookies, cheddarwurst, and bubblegum - as well as my own: nysd, star trek, the purps and kief.

For convenience, I will refer to my previous unit as xp3 and this unit as xp4. That said, I don't believe there is any real consistency in runs. Like I have said before, I believe damn near every unit is different than the next. I guarantee neither of my units produced anywhere near the clouds of vitolo's vids - especially on 5. Something to keep in mind when people say this is the best or worst unit. My observations may only apply to my unit.

xp3 had 4 intake holes and ribbed capsules. xp4 had 2 intake holes and no rib on capsule. W/ xp3, I would get 2-4 great hits (no visible vape) starting at level 5, then just super hot hits at 7. W/ xp4, I get at least double the good hits at 5 (still nothing visible) and it is way more tolerable at higher temps. I typically start a session by heating to 7, lowering to 5 and hitting as long as productive before increasing heat to 7, lowering to 6 - same scenario ending up on 7 to finish cap. I only get substantial visible vape at 7 after it has been cooking a while. I still ascribe no real convection properties to this vape.

In an effort to increase vape production, I again blocked my intake holes. This helped, but not enough. I then put a grommet around the cap to ride on top of the unit - sealing the open oven. As there is nowhere on top of the unit to secure a grommet, I had to cheesily wrap a length of electrical tape around it. Now there was no air intake at all - verifying that the top is where all the air leak was going on. I left the top secured as described and removed the tape from the intake holes (still sometimes using 1 as a carb). This is how I found the unit to be most productive. I will have to find a way to make this seal in a less ghetto fashion though. I am absolutely not looking to increase air intake by punching holes or anything. I want more vapor in my air, not vice versa.

The capsules seem to work best when fully loaded, which tends to flare out the top and in turn cause damage to the sides when inserting. I really wish these were of a piece instead of a wrap - built in weakness. W/o the rib, I have had the capsule disengage from the unit twice while in the middle of a session. A cap is slightly just more of a session than I need, but there is rarely anything there if I come back to it.

The usb port seems to be tight and stable, but too much pressure is needed to insert the cable. Over time I still see this being problematic. I don't know if it would mess w/ the electronics, but I've seen magnetic couplings that are loose, but auto connect if you get them close together. As this is the weak spot on the unit, I would aim at alleviating stress, not promoting it.

All in all, I would say this is an improved version. W/ the modification sealing the upper chamber that is. This seal not only improved vapor production, but flavor as well. W/ xp4, I am able to utilize the higher temps instead of just discarding load after a couple of pulls.


Here is my temp filtration system: bigass roor - 18 to 14 adaptor - ascent watertool adaptor - whip - xp
Definitely a work in progress.

osICZut.jpg
 
Snake Plissken,

Kaptan

Well-Known Member
ok. Here goes.

I received my replacement unit a couple of weeks back, but wanted to really put it through some use before reporting back. Before anyone questions the quality of meds used I have run in between 1/4 and 1/2 oz of the following disp meds: Obama kush, green queen, animal cookies, cheddarwurst, and bubblegum - as well as my own: nysd, star trek, the purps and kief.

For convenience, I will refer to my previous unit as xp3 and this unit as xp4. That said, I don't believe there is any real consistency in runs. Like I have said before, I believe damn near every unit is different than the next. I guarantee neither of my units produced anywhere near the clouds of vitolo's vids - especially on 5. Something to keep in mind when people say this is the best or worst unit. My observations may only apply to my unit.

xp3 had 4 intake holes and ribbed capsules. xp4 had 2 intake holes and no rib on capsule. W/ xp3, I would get 2-4 great hits (no visible vape) starting at level 5, then just super hot hits at 7. W/ xp4, I get at least double the good hits at 5 (still nothing visible) and it is way more tolerable at higher temps. I typically start a session by heating to 7, lowering to 5 and hitting as long as productive before increasing heat to 7, lowering to 6 - same scenario ending up on 7 to finish cap. I only get substantial visible vape at 7 after it has been cooking a while. I still ascribe no real convection properties to this vape.

In an effort to increase vape production, I again blocked my intake holes. This helped, but not enough. I then put a grommet around the cap to ride on top of the unit - sealing the open oven. As there is nowhere on top of the unit to secure a grommet, I had to cheesily wrap a length of electrical tape around it. Now there was no air intake at all - verifying that the top is where all the air leak was going on. I left the top secured as described and removed the tape from the intake holes (still sometimes using 1 as a carb). This is how I found the unit to be most productive. I will have to find a way to make this seal in a less ghetto fashion though. I am absolutely not looking to increase air intake by punching holes or anything. I want more vapor in my air, not vice versa.

The capsules seem to work best when fully loaded, which tends to flare out the top and in turn cause damage to the sides when inserting. I really wish these were of a piece instead of a wrap - built in weakness. W/o the rib, I have had the capsule disengage from the unit twice while in the middle of a session. A cap is slightly just more of a session than I need, but there is rarely anything there if I come back to it.

The usb port seems to be tight and stable, but too much pressure is needed to insert the cable. Over time I still see this being problematic. I don't know if it would mess w/ the electronics, but I've seen magnetic couplings that are loose, but auto connect if you get them close together. As this is the weak spot on the unit, I would aim at alleviating stress, not promoting it.

All in all, I would say this is an improved version. W/ the modification sealing the upper chamber that is. This seal not only improved vapor production, but flavor as well. W/ xp4, I am able to utilize the higher temps instead of just discarding load after a couple of pulls.


Here is my temp filtration system: bigass roor - 18 to 14 adaptor - ascent watertool adaptor - whip - xp
Definitely a work in progress.

osICZut.jpg
Instead of that adapter you are using, try putting one of the blue hygienic tips on the end of the capsule and then place the other end of the blue tip in your 14 mm joint. You may have to trim the blue tip for a better fit.
 

vaplen

Well-Known Member
ok. Here goes.

I received my replacement unit a couple of weeks back, but wanted to really put it through some use before reporting back. Before anyone questions the quality of meds used I have run in between 1/4 and 1/2 oz of the following disp meds: Obama kush, green queen, animal cookies, cheddarwurst, and bubblegum - as well as my own: nysd, star trek, the purps and kief.

For convenience, I will refer to my previous unit as xp3 and this unit as xp4. That said, I don't believe there is any real consistency in runs. Like I have said before, I believe damn near every unit is different than the next. I guarantee neither of my units produced anywhere near the clouds of vitolo's vids - especially on 5. Something to keep in mind when people say this is the best or worst unit. My observations may only apply to my unit.

xp3 had 4 intake holes and ribbed capsules. xp4 had 2 intake holes and no rib on capsule. W/ xp3, I would get 2-4 great hits (no visible vape) starting at level 5, then just super hot hits at 7. W/ xp4, I get at least double the good hits at 5 (still nothing visible) and it is way more tolerable at higher temps. I typically start a session by heating to 7, lowering to 5 and hitting as long as productive before increasing heat to 7, lowering to 6 - same scenario ending up on 7 to finish cap. I only get substantial visible vape at 7 after it has been cooking a while. I still ascribe no real convection properties to this vape.

In an effort to increase vape production, I again blocked my intake holes. This helped, but not enough. I then put a grommet around the cap to ride on top of the unit - sealing the open oven. As there is nowhere on top of the unit to secure a grommet, I had to cheesily wrap a length of electrical tape around it. Now there was no air intake at all - verifying that the top is where all the air leak was going on. I left the top secured as described and removed the tape from the intake holes (still sometimes using 1 as a carb). This is how I found the unit to be most productive. I will have to find a way to make this seal in a less ghetto fashion though. I am absolutely not looking to increase air intake by punching holes or anything. I want more vapor in my air, not vice versa.

The capsules seem to work best when fully loaded, which tends to flare out the top and in turn cause damage to the sides when inserting. I really wish these were of a piece instead of a wrap - built in weakness. W/o the rib, I have had the capsule disengage from the unit twice while in the middle of a session. A cap is slightly just more of a session than I need, but there is rarely anything there if I come back to it.

The usb port seems to be tight and stable, but too much pressure is needed to insert the cable. Over time I still see this being problematic. I don't know if it would mess w/ the electronics, but I've seen magnetic couplings that are loose, but auto connect if you get them close together. As this is the weak spot on the unit, I would aim at alleviating stress, not promoting it.

All in all, I would say this is an improved version. W/ the modification sealing the upper chamber that is. This seal not only improved vapor production, but flavor as well. W/ xp4, I am able to utilize the higher temps instead of just discarding load after a couple of pulls.


Here is my temp filtration system: bigass roor - 18 to 14 adaptor - ascent watertool adaptor - whip - xp
Definitely a work in progress.

osICZut.jpg
have you tried holding a light to your mouth while you exhale? I noticed that convection vapor was thinner than conduction and also was much smoother. I could be wrong but that was what I got out of the unit for my short time using it.
 
vaplen,
Question for one of you experienced Inhalater xp users. How good is the taste of the herb,how long is the battery life, and how hard is it to clean? I am considering a second vape. I have an Ascent that I am very happy with, but considering getting another just to have something different.

Thanks in advance for any help.
wasn't this just answered on the last page? People please read the thread or at least the first 10 pages and the last 10.
 
Top Bottom