How to clean glass parts you can't reach???

[mmenzie]

Hello,
I have a ZOB Bubbler like this one:

i get alot of condensed vapor buildup (i think that is what it is, i only use this piece when vaping) in the spot right under where the neck meets the can and also in the various spots in the neck as well. these spots are not reachable by hand in any way. I have used iso (pour some in and swish it around the areas and pour out), i have used iso and kosker salt (same swishing method), and i have used hot water and kosher salt (same swishing method) and i cannot get all of it out. i can get alot but there is still enough there to take away from being shiny and clean.

since you cant get to these areas with your hand or a paper towel to do any "scrubbing"... i was curious if any of you have this issue (i'm sure i cannot be the only one) and what methods you use to get these areas clean.

thanks in advance,

 

[SD_haze]

Well the simplest way I see is simply getting a glass-on-glass plug and FILLING it with iso and letting it soak.
You could fill it up halfway up the neck.

So you don't go through a ton of iso doing this regularly, you can strain the iso and funnel back into the container when you're finished. That way you have some slightly dirty free iso and some nice clean iso for if it needs a more serious wash afterwards.

 

[Frederick McGuire]

Get some pipe cleaners.

I've got a couple that I got from here
http://www.ozbongs.com.au/Brush-Set-For-Bongs-agung/
I got them for free on a sale, I'm sure you could get them for cheaper elsewhere.

With a bit of bending they can reach most hard to reach places.

 

[Takavor23]

Orange Chronic cleaner usually works like a champ. Available at most head shops. If not Salt/Vodka/Water and soaking time.

 

[t-dub]

You probably like your Zob label just the way it is I'm guessing, so some Simple Green might be worth a go. I wouldn't use anything too acid or base or anything with silicates or any hard chems like xylene, naptha etc. If your willing to divorce yourself from the label there are, of course, alternatives . . .

 

[FLskwat]

ISO in the microwave for 10 seconds , salt, pipe cleaners!
The particules+ vape honey combo is IMHO much more "difficult" to clean then pure concentrate claim (which liquifies and disappears with high temp water+pressure) so the secret is to cean FRECUENTLY your glass piece with a daily routine and the big cleaning sessions will be much less necessary (maybe 1/month)!

 

[Tweak]

ISO in the microwave for 10 seconds , salt, pipe cleaners!

Is it safe to microwave ISO? I can't find a definite answer anywhere. I guess as long as you don't exceed the 10 seconds you suggest or add a fork into the mix, .

As an alternative to microwaving I fill my bubbler with a lil ISO and lay it in a HOT water bath to allow the transfer of heat. May not be as effective but is easier on my nerves.

I've always wondered if ISO is more prone to cause thermal shock to glass than plain room temp water, but I would guess they are the same temp, ISO just feels cold because it evaporates so fast.

 

[MonsterWithoutBorders]

Is it safe to microwave ISO? I can't find a definite answer anywhere. I guess as long as you don't exceed the 10 seconds you suggest or add a fork into the mix, .

As an alternative to microwaving I fill my bubbler with a lil ISO and lay it in a HOT water bath to allow the transfer of heat. May not be as effective but is easier on my nerves.

I've always wondered if ISO is more prone to cause thermal shock to glass than plain room temp water, but I would guess they are the same temp, ISO just feels cold because it evaporates so fast.

I think if you put a fork in a microwave you might be able to stick a fork in it (the microwave I mean).

 

[kingofnull]

Have you tried heating that area with hot water on the outside before pouring in the ISO/salt combo? That's always worked for me on tough spots.

 

[mmenzie]

Have you tried heating that area with hot water on the outside before pouring in the ISO/salt combo? That's always worked for me on tough spots.

nope have't tried that. all i have done is what i put in the OP. willing to try anything at this point

 

[t-dub]

nope have't tried that. all i have done is what i put in the OP. willing to try anything at this point

Do you care about the label? This makes a difference.

 

[kingofnull]

nope have't tried that. all i have done is what i put in the OP. willing to try anything at this point

So just boil some water in the kettle. Let it come down past the boiling point. While still hot but not boiling, pour it over the affected spot and inside. Swish around. Pour out water. Add solution (ISO/salt, Simply Green, etc)

Might work for you.

 

[mmenzie]

Do you care about the label? This makes a difference.

why would the label have to do anything with it??? on mine (mine is similar to the one in the picture but not the same. mine has no base and ZOB sticker is black with white lettering) the label seems like it's on the outside of the can, not the inside. i may be wrong but i am pretty sure the label is on the outside. so since we are talking about buildup on the inside i am curious as why you ask about the label??

 

[kingofnull]

why would the label have to do anything with it??? on mine (mine is similar to the one in the picture but not the same. mine has no base and ZOB sticker is black with white lettering) the label seems like it's on the outside of the can, not the inside. i may be wrong but i am pretty sure the label is on the outside. so since we are talking about buildup on the inside i am curious as why you ask about the label??

Because t-dub is going to suggest to soak in a strong solution which could cause the label to degrade.

 

[t-dub]

why would the label have to do anything with it???

Because if ONE drop of this shit hits your label it will KILL it and I won't be responsible . . . never mind, you answered the question for me. Good luck to you

Think Simple Green, safe, easy, effective.

Put heat into the cleaning cycle, its a better way to get energy in there than shaking . . .



Click for more info on the role of chemistry in cleaning, gonna start a PBW thread here real soon, some test video (raw footage) for you guys

The soil formation you see here is 6 months of abuse, using RezBlock without regarding the rules. So the soil deposition you see is a combination of vapor residue, biological contamination, salt, and god knows what else, deposited over a 6 month period . . . came clean with 2 rinses in under 30 minutes total time. With frequent cleaning this method keeps everything sparkling in seconds and it has a positive impact on the environment when it goes down the drain to boot. It is concentrated, mixes in your glass, is easy to store and transport . . .

 

[t-dub]

PBW thread created, enjoy

http://fuckcombustion.com/threads/pbw-the-chemistry-of-clean.7854/#post-309705

 

[redglassgallery]

im not sure if this would work, but what we do in the shop is we throw our pieces in the kiln and run them through our annealing cycle and the pieces come out sparkly clean.

of course not everyone has access to a kiln, but i believe the self clean mode in most ovens will do the trick.

Just place the tube in the oven at room temp and start the self clean mode

when it is finished let the oven gradually cool down to room temp( don't open the door )
this will prevent thermal shock which can crack your glass if its overly stressed

Since the oven only goes up to 500 F degrees it won't damage the label which can withstand temps of 1000F degrees


i have advised some of our customers to try this and they have had good results

** i would test on a cheap pc 1st or a downstem **

 

[kingofnull]

im not sure if this would work, but what we do in the shop is we throw our pieces in the kiln and run them through our annealing cycle and the pieces come out sparkly clean.

of course not everyone has access to a kiln, but i believe the self clean mode in most ovens will do the trick.

Just place the tube in the oven at room temp and start the self clean mode

when it is finished let the oven gradually cool down to room temp( don't open the door )
this will prevent thermal shock which can crack your glass if its overly stressed

Since the oven only goes up to 500 F degrees it won't damage the label which can withstand temps of 1000F degrees


i have advised some of our customers to try this and they have had good results

** i would test on a cheap pc 1st or a downstem **

That would make me really nervous . I'll wait till more people confirm this worked for them

 

[redglassgallery]

yea, thats why i would test it on a downstem or a bowl 1st ( or even a broken pc if you have one )

we always have glass laying around the shop

 

[kingofnull]

yea, thats why i would test it on a downstem or a bowl 1st ( or even a broken pc if you have one )

we always have glass laying around the shop

Even if it's safe for a piece like a downstem, does that necessarily mean it's safe for a bong?

 

[fake name]

Just read the thread and wanted to add- DO NOT MICROWAVE ISOPROPYL ALCOHOL.

 

[redglassgallery]

i would say so - my main concern is the oven not getting hot enough
and secondly if the tube has a small hairline crack - heating up the tube won't help it / it night even make it worse .

but if looking at the OP's piece there aren't that many welds to worry about and its pretty small so fitment wouldnt be an issue.

that being said we put tubes that customers send in for repairs in the kiln 1st and they usually have cracks or chips and they come out fine ( we can't work on a dirty pc )