texansfan17
New Member
I read on page 2 of this thread that restricted airflow increases the vapor draw. Like by using tape or something. Can somebody confirm this?
Pen Herbstick Eco Vaporizer
- Thread starter mrweed
- Start date
nondarb
.
Yes, but that was primarily for use in water pipes. I used Teflon tape and covered it with heatshrink for aesthetics. Just don't block off the actual air holes. Best thing about it is if you don't like it you've done nothing permanent. Its not a necessary mod, but if you're expecting milky results I highly suggest it.
texansfan17
New Member
Okay, I'll try it with the tape even without a water pipe just to see what it's like. Thanks for the info
texansfan17
New Member
Any suggestions for a replacement charger for the Eco?
texansfan17
New Member
Is the white light supposed to be on when charging correctly?
Did you get an order confirmation email from them when you placed your order?
Yes, when I first opened it up, I turned it on and clicked through the heat settings briefly. Maybe it did come fully charged.
The battery indicator light when I first turn it on, and when I plugged it into the laptop wasn't white, it was more of a pink color, it definitely wasn't red either, as when I clicked up to the highest heat setting the light was bright red. Maybe that is as white of a color as the light gets with the multicolor LED though, I'm not sure.
PPN was correct, it turns out it came fully charged.
When I turned it up to the highest heat setting to do a burnoff (with the mouthpiece removed) I noticed a very strong smell of burning electronics fumes or something. When I shined a small flashlight on it, there was a thin steady stream of smoke/vapor coming off of it.
Above the metal chamber inside there is a rubber o-ring, and above that there are two half circle (I assume metal) pieces. There is a gap on either side where they come together. The smoke/vapor seems to be coming out from the gaps from the electronics or glue or solder or whatever is inside.
I ran 5 burnoffs at full temp yesterday, letting the vape fully cool in between burnoffs, and the stream of smoke/vapor was coming off during each burnoff. I did 3 more burnoffs today, and had the same result.
I don't know if I got a defective unit, or if other people aren't as thorough as me when doing burnoffs and take the mouthpieces of and use flashlights to see if anything is burning or vaping off. It is a $23 vape, so I doubt quality standards are nearly as high as other vapes. As it stands, I wouldn't rate the one I received as safe to use, unfortunately.
When I turned it up to the highest heat setting to do a burnoff (with the mouthpiece removed) I noticed a very strong smell of burning electronics fumes or something. When I shined a small flashlight on it, there was a thin steady stream of smoke/vapor coming off of it.
Above the metal chamber inside there is a rubber o-ring, and above that there are two half circle (I assume metal) pieces. There is a gap on either side where they come together. The smoke/vapor seems to be coming out from the gaps from the electronics or glue or solder or whatever is inside.
I ran 5 burnoffs at full temp yesterday, letting the vape fully cool in between burnoffs, and the stream of smoke/vapor was coming off during each burnoff. I did 3 more burnoffs today, and had the same result.
I don't know if I got a defective unit, or if other people aren't as thorough as me when doing burnoffs and take the mouthpieces of and use flashlights to see if anything is burning or vaping off. It is a $23 vape, so I doubt quality standards are nearly as high as other vapes. As it stands, I wouldn't rate the one I received as safe to use, unfortunately.
texansfan17
New Member
Sorry I'm late. Yes I got a confirmation email. And I have noticed a weird smell from this vape. It's definitely not a stealthy vape as far as smell. I would recommend some Ozium spray and maybe find out a way to block excess fumes with maybe a cover or something.
texansfan17
New Member
Also vaping at a lower temp might help with smell
nondarb
.
Everything you've said doesn't mesh at all with my own experience. The only smell related issues I had were solely with the silicone MP's which I remedied by soaking overnight.
Did you buy from ciggo?
nondarb
.
I suppose I got lucky this time! I've had to burn off my fair share of robot farts however.
Does yours have the o-rings or gap he mentioned? Mines seated flush, the heater has a little ring of the same heat resistant plastic that encases the solos heater and that comes in direct contact with the aluminum casing. No rubber, or metal pieces or gaps.
@ghost does yours look like that? Regardless I'd get in touch with the vendor if the smell doesn't dissipate, moneys money!
texansfan17
New Member
Anybody have any opinions on the best stealth setting? I tend to think that the 4th highest temp (purple) is the temp with the best clouds at a stealthy smell level.
Petrolhead
Well-Known Member
Yesterday i receive it for a friend... I make one empty 10' burnoff and then we do a test drive with weed at yellow and then at red setting. No weird smells and everything "ok". Big clouds at yellow setting.
Just received mine yesterday. I bought it for $21 on AliExpress. It looks nicely made, but it reeks of horrible toxic smells. I've been doing continuous burn offs since last night, so far about 20x. The smell is starting to dissipate, but it still has a long way to go. It makes me sick just to sit in the same room with it during the burn offs, let alone inhale through it. I tried soaking the top section up to the air holes in ISO, and that didn't help at all. I noticed that the black closed cell foam that cradles it in the box has the same smell, even on the back. This leads me to believe that the smell might be from sitting in the smelly foam, not from manufacturing.
I tested its temperature accuracy today, as well, and the temps are all significantly higher than spec:
Spec | Actual
<169°C Cyan | 173C 343F
170-179°C Blue | 187C 369F
180--189°C Green | 197C 387F
190--199°C Purple | 209C 408F
200--209°C Yellow | 220C 428F
>210°C Red | 230C 446F
However, the temps seem to be fairly stable, so I guess they just don't calibrate them at the factory. The temperatures were measured using a thermistor held against the bottom of the empty chamber.
I'm starting to wonder if I'll ever be able to get rid of the smell to the point where I can try it out.
I tested its temperature accuracy today, as well, and the temps are all significantly higher than spec:
Spec | Actual
<169°C Cyan | 173C 343F
170-179°C Blue | 187C 369F
180--189°C Green | 197C 387F
190--199°C Purple | 209C 408F
200--209°C Yellow | 220C 428F
>210°C Red | 230C 446F
However, the temps seem to be fairly stable, so I guess they just don't calibrate them at the factory. The temperatures were measured using a thermistor held against the bottom of the empty chamber.
I'm starting to wonder if I'll ever be able to get rid of the smell to the point where I can try it out.
OK, I did continuous burn offs at highest temp setting for another whole day, using a small fan to blow air through the intake holes, and with the mouthpiece removed... 50+ total burn offs. Finally, the smell has subsided enough to use it. There's still a slight smell, I think (I hope) it's safe to use now.
I have to say that I'm pretty impressed with this thing. It's turning out to be a great micro hitter. I can get decent draws using tiny pinches that don't work well in my other fancier and much more expensive vapes, such as the DaVinci Ascend (really disappointed in that one) and even my Herbalaire. It's not as nice as my HotBox, but that thing is convection, runs off wall current, and takes a long time to warm up. For micro loads, it's pretty amazing. Even on the red setting, so far, it doesn't combust, either, despite the temperature measurements I did. I guess this is due to bad heat transfer between the load and the oven. Maybe this is why the thing runs hotter than the spec.
My main problem is that during a session, little bits of herb fly up into the 4 intake holes of the mouthpiece, clogging it up and making the draw a lot more difficult.
All in all, the Eco has turned out to be a pretty capable vape, at a very low price point.
I have to say that I'm pretty impressed with this thing. It's turning out to be a great micro hitter. I can get decent draws using tiny pinches that don't work well in my other fancier and much more expensive vapes, such as the DaVinci Ascend (really disappointed in that one) and even my Herbalaire. It's not as nice as my HotBox, but that thing is convection, runs off wall current, and takes a long time to warm up. For micro loads, it's pretty amazing. Even on the red setting, so far, it doesn't combust, either, despite the temperature measurements I did. I guess this is due to bad heat transfer between the load and the oven. Maybe this is why the thing runs hotter than the spec.
My main problem is that during a session, little bits of herb fly up into the 4 intake holes of the mouthpiece, clogging it up and making the draw a lot more difficult.
All in all, the Eco has turned out to be a pretty capable vape, at a very low price point.
KeroZen
Chronic vapaholic
What did you use for your temperature measurements if I may ask?
Be it in the Ascent or this vape, or any conduction vape in fact, I always recommend to use the "puck technique". Tamp your load quite hard using a flat tool and make a small puck. This way you don't have to fill the bowl fully and it maximizes the contact surface area with the oven walls and removes air from the load, as this is how conduction works, by contact.
Then draw much more softly than in your other vapes (even more in the Ascent which you can only sip at best) If you get a rising puck or flying bits of material it means you are drawing too hard. It's not easy to self-regulate at first but with practice you should get better results. Just open the bowl and push back the puck in place.
PS: for the Ascent you also need to fix the air-leak but this is another story...
Be it in the Ascent or this vape, or any conduction vape in fact, I always recommend to use the "puck technique". Tamp your load quite hard using a flat tool and make a small puck. This way you don't have to fill the bowl fully and it maximizes the contact surface area with the oven walls and removes air from the load, as this is how conduction works, by contact.
Then draw much more softly than in your other vapes (even more in the Ascent which you can only sip at best) If you get a rising puck or flying bits of material it means you are drawing too hard. It's not easy to self-regulate at first but with practice you should get better results. Just open the bowl and push back the puck in place.
PS: for the Ascent you also need to fix the air-leak but this is another story...