Hogni
Honi soit qui mal y pense
@pxl_jockey, and what's about your testing of the Herbo Ti (a) the whole year?
+1. Except my popcorn went stale and needed to be thrown out!@pxl_jockey, and what's about your testing of the Herbo Ti (a) the whole year?
Totally bro. I have been very curious how YOU got on with it that is all. Not about "Ti is this...Ti is that..."Now you know that there’s been considerable downtime in that period of testing but yes, I have some thoughts on the subject of HerboTi but it’s not much different to any opinions expressed here already. And by vaporists with more experience and discernment than myself. It’s not going to be any insightful, thought provoking stuff. It’s not to be trifled with, you gotta respect it.
Do you mean it isn't working now? Seb obviously set it to 350 C for you, same as mine. So no problem with that? It would automatically go to there in under 3 mins as soon as you power it on.I received the thing (shipped to the billing address instead of the shipping address I provided).
Very poor instructions with Cartesian maps and wiring diagrams but no step to step other than to change a password, and no focus on a user who might not already own enails or PID like that.
No indication of how to prime the heating element (Bud referred to that on his herbo live).
Wasn't a carry case / bag included in the packs? Pretty sure it was.
The power wire is loose and gets disconnected easily.
It's possible to see the electric wires from the head of the heater (white, red and yellow), is it the norm? The heating element has also pretty sharp edges. Almost to the point to getting cut if not careful with it.
I left it idle after having checked it was on Celsius and it reached 350 fucking degrees without any input by my side. Now I shut it down because I don't know how to operate it.
3 digiti bricked in a row?
Im not disputing your logic at least theoretically. Im not in prime mental state atm for much beyond very basic thinking. But I should just share my own experience briefly.Looking at buds review.. I think that the PID stuff isnt set right on this controller or isnt fine tuned to the heater.
I has very slow ramp up and can't keep with draw.. You only get it set at a certain temp and then it drops from there like all the analog vaporizers. I know there is a huge benefit of this temp being precise ,but i though it was all about having the software balance to the draw power like in the TUBO software ? Imo also there isnt enough mass of the heater or at least not enough surface contact with ait so transfers heat to air as well as the GS for example,so that has to be compensated with extra power.. which has to ramp up quick ,having in mind the rate the temp drops when you take a hit. I feel like it needs also a lot of time to recover after a hit.
This way the user is robbed of the ability to do dense low temp hits IMO.. Cause PID doesnt maintain air at a certain temp,so he would still have to overshoot a bit .. i hope i am making sense with these words x).
Another things that comes to mind is that there is a silicone ring in the airpath over the heater,i dont know how much it effects the purity of the airpath but it aint all glass/metal.
There are some password-secured settings that can be finetuned by the user, hope get use of it sooner or later, in order to get monster hits or different purpose of use.Looking at buds review.. I think that the PID stuff isnt set right on this controller or isnt fine tuned to the heater.
I has very slow ramp up and can't keep with draw.. You only get it set at a certain temp and then it drops from there like all the analog vaporizers. I know there is a huge benefit of this temp being precise ,but i though it was all about having the software balance to the draw power like in the TUBO software ? Imo also there isnt enough mass of the heater or at least not enough surface contact with ait so transfers heat to air as well as the GS for example,so that has to be compensated with extra power.. which has to ramp up quick ,having in mind the rate the temp drops when you take a hit. I feel like it needs also a lot of time to recover after a hit.
This way the user is robbed of the ability to do dense low temp hits IMO.. Cause PID doesnt maintain air at a certain temp,so he would still have to overshoot a bit .. i hope i am making sense with these words x).
Another things that comes to mind is that there is a silicone ring in the airpath over the heater,i dont know how much it effects the purity of the airpath but it aint all glass/metal.
Please continue to think freely and openly I respect you always and welcome your enquiry, critique and suggestions.@Alexis Thx for your input i was just commenting on what i am seeing in the video. There are drops from like 50 degrees when VCbud hits it.. (check 38:55 of the video)
@justcametomind My logic is that heat travels upwards so it sits over the hot heater. I have tried to OG Herborizer and i can clearly taste the cables's insulation at high temps,so i was just wondering if those rings bring anything off to the taste of the TI ?
Is there anyway to do doube deckers with the TI ? Can it vape herb with the concentrate attachment ?
That member in question wasn't talking about using the actual Cyclone bowl with the Ti. Just the screens IN the Herbo bowl. I just looked on Arizers site but they don't show specs for the bowl.I did search the thread for "Arizer cyclone bowl screens", but anybody ever posted a link. Should I get the screens or the Arizer cyclone bowl itself?
Should I get this one?
https://verdampftnochmal.de/products/en/Extreme-Vaporizer-Screen-Pack
Otherwise there's a lot of stuff falling from the normal screen setup.
Thanks <3.
No that is a seperate mod altogether. He may have advocated that, but he was actually using the larger, Arizer Cyclone bowl screens in the Ti stick bowl, in place of the stock Ti screens.Hey guys! I think @Seepa means to fit the arizer basket screen in the male end of the herbo bowl ,where it inserts the water piece.It does fit great and I might start using dry again with this setup.Dry is stronger.
Wanted to share a couple of tips I have thought of to help with the Herbo TI.
First off, arizer q tower cyclone bowl screens are perfect for the Herbo bowl (18mm). When inserting the screen, I let it fall flat first on the three pins and then, with some force, poke the middle of the screen downwards with the ball end of the dabbing tool until it pops through. This way it creates and ever so slight downwards cup in the screen. Push upwards on this from the other side until it's almost flat and then use the other end of the tool to work out the fine details all around the edges from the top and the bottom.
Secondly, the q tower to the rescue again. The bowl screens that are used in the elbow of the Q are a perfect fit for the male end of the bowl. The mesh on these screen is finer than the one in the bowl, so this one catches all the little bits falling through the first screen. After a while a pile of particles will pile on top of the bottom screen and you can just dump these in with the rest of the abv. I guess you could also just use this screen and load your material on top of the lower screen. Have not tried it though.
-Seepa
Good find! As I recalled, a double mod! However I have the EQ basket screens and they don't quite fit in the underside of my bowl and even if they do they stick out too much and prevents a seal with the water pipe.
Life is TOO short for regrets my friend! Never mind on the not so useful concentrate bowl. The microbowl- there will be other ways to screen mod that. One member in particular did this and it became his daily driver setup over Flowerpot at the time, and regular Herbo bowls.It doesn't fit in the microdose bowl (which would be a breeze cause I don't like it the way it is.I regret getting both the md bowl and concentrate bowl).Fits the original bowl though.
I think the basket screen makes the cyclone bowl screen mod unnecessary.
I thought i could loosen up your lively scholarly discussion with some visual tidbid