Halo-log

[Abysmal Vapor]

Hmm... was just thinking. Came across a youtube vid with some bloke running a test, discharging a 18650 2A/h cell using a halogen bulb as load, that drew about 1A. He just wanted to see, if the cell would give him a full two hours, but what crossed my mind, was the question if you can utilize a halogen bulb as heater for an instant 501 halo portable, running it at 5V? Heat up time should be fast enough, I'd think, just the question which wattage to use to get the needed temps at only 5V?
Venus Apollo seems to utilize this already. Anyone else ever tried it?

Actually i have already a 510 halo attachment in the making but... it brings some problems.
First of all it makes Chips of evic and wismec overheat really fast. Doesnt heat up quick enough,also 5volts have really thiny pins which get redhot,the 12v overheats the chip even faster,restance of the coils is crazy high like 3 ohms.. . So until i get it hot enough to vape i get overheating issues also manage to melt the insulation of few bases..
Probably it is going to work well with a manual mod which doesnt have a chip to overheat,but those are a bit dangerous ?
Also i dont know about 2 hours of running time ,but i get like 5 minutes of cruisetime with 4 sony VTC6 at 50watts with the 12v.
I will pursue this further , i was about thinking of asking @supershredderdan If he can recommend some bases which wont melt ,as he has gone trough a lot of models into his modpod journey.
My biggest fear about it is that it will bring a lot of reflected heat to the mod and the connection and even if we get it to work it will still not have enough heatsink to be safe to use.

Oh,forgot to add that i have already a working protype of something like a Instalog/instaheat but it incorporates a Halo-mesh heater.
It basicly runs really dimmed at 25% and boost to 100% is initiated upon inhalation,for now i am trying to add a boost button to the body like in the EV-1.
It is really hard to combust unless you dont boost for 10-15 seconds prior inhalation.

 

[blokenoname]

@Abysmal Vapor

Ah.. I see. That frankly covers a lot of stuff, I simply have to pass on as I know next to nothing about the details of chips, coils, which mods to use, software and so on. Still have to read up on all that, to get at least a birds eye perspective, of what's necessary to make a 501 herb mod work.

Just thought about it in more general terms, i.e. when we use a powerful enough heater, but feed it only half the voltage or less, like for instance I've done with the much too hot running 40W/12V cartridges, running them around 6V to prevent overheating, can we utilise that for running them with one or two 5V 18650 cells then, instead from a 12V wall wart + inline dimmer? And if so, can we put that whole assembly then into a portable body and come up with a method to fire it up on demand or maybe just as a simple session style portable, that you switch on for a couple of minutes till your load is done? 501 threading connection would also be interesting, because you could do away with some wiring and use a ready made mod enclosure for the cells. A manual/mechanical one sounds ok there. Gives you a firing button and that's about it. As long as you use protected cells with one, that als shouldn't be more dangerous, than a regulated one? That's how I understand it anyway. As I said, not much experience there yet.

Your instalog/instaheat type prototype sound right up my ally there maybe?

 

[Abysmal Vapor]

I have started another thread about the 510 build. I think i have solution tp some of the issues ,but decided to ask others for help ) with the stuff that i dont grasp,
I dont suggest running straight batteries to the bulb.
Insta heat and Zion have an e-cig CHIP . I think it was an OKC chip or something like that.
Maybe your idea can still work but at least you have to add some battery level indication,so you dont drain dangerously low the batteries .
It would be really cool if one can convert a FLASHlight that uses 18650 to a vaporizer.. it will be really stealth ...
http://fuckcombustion.com/threads/vaporizing-with-a-flashlight.4327/
18650 cells arent protected. There is some kind of addon called kick-2 for mech mods which limits the wattage output and also i think prevent the battery from being drained badly. Imo VW mod will be better for the purpose. Probably also usage of Li-Po like in the bud toaster will be much safer choice for unregulated usage.

 

[blokenoname]

As I said, I've still to read up and learn more, before it would even cross my mind, to start experimenting with 18650 cells Not in the mood, for blowing myself up yet

There are protected 18650 cells that utilize a circuit board to add under/over voltage protection, over current protection, short out protection and so on. They're a bit longer than the unprotected, common ones and one would have to find a fitting manual mod.

https://www.fenix-store.com/blog/wh...en-protected-and-unprotected-18650-batteries/

 

[KeroZen]

AFAIK there are no coin-type protection circuits able to cope with high drain cells. The higher specs I found were 10A only. But external (and larger) BMS are always an option. Let's discuss it all in the other thread.

 

[Goatbass]

Should have the mesh and downstem mouthpiece in by mid September. Can't wait to put everything together and test it out!!!

Do any of you know any custom glass shops in China I can put in orders? Only China has cheap shipping to my country.

 

[Abysmal Vapor]

Should have the mesh and downstem mouthpiece in by mid September. Can't wait to put everything together and test it out!!!

Do any of you know any custom glass shops in China I can put in orders? Only China has cheap shipping to my country.

StevenIMZ79 at dhgate . (link)

 

[Abysmal Vapor]

Haha, this thread is getting dust already.. Well i gotta snap some pics and finish some stuff.I was on a short vacation where my driver was a tiny halo-log 6,5 cm tall and 3,5cm wide. Works really nicely,but i have yet to add shielding and see if it can be run more than 30-40 minutes without damaging. This time is more than enough,because it is ready to do its job within a minute from cold .
After some diggin into various grades of stainless steel , i think it would be best to use a Nickel free grade like the 420 or 430, whatever is easier to get. Experts say those are the best grades for cookware. I already knew that this grade will better than 316L,and have some on order ,but it was @KeroZen who made look into nickel ,and now i think that 430/420 is a better way ).
Ultimately i will try to source as plate ,wires and mesh,and use it everywhere instead of 316L

 

[atadam]

Been a while, I now have a prototype which can reach 200 C provided there is some insulation (tried socks so far, they've burned). 35W lamp without a dimmer does not sustain enough heat for draws I believe. Will look into cylindrical steel shell, however the GonG adapters seems to be the real problem. Idk

Also, would you think a halogen bulb could replace heating element of "Lab Glass Vaporizer"? Producing a log is over my head for now? Shaping the wood visible at upper pictures to plug air entrance, I would need only lab-glass and some glass balls. Even if I fail that a wine bottle cork might to the trick. My bubbler would force upside down usage for me.
http://fuckcombustion.com/threads/the-lab-glass-vaporizer.16879/

P.S: could you suggest any place to buy steel mesh for producing one's own screens. I'll try my chance at OSTIM

 

[Abysmal Vapor]

You need mesh around that bulb.I have tried the glass ball thing and bulb exploded. It is for use only in open luminaries. I have one that runs fine with a cartridge heater but it makes the leads really hot from conduction,so it is good only for short amount of time ,most of it wasted in heatup. and it either melts the plug or chars the wood . Have in mind that the heater in the symphony runs at very high temps to achieve vaporization temps,you dont want that ammout of heat in a wooden body,if this is how you are gonna go with it . Make sure you wipe the LETTERS off the bulb with iso before use.
Your concept reminds of the Jak the Rippa from Magicflight makers.

 

[blokenoname]

Been a while, I now have a prototype which can reach 200 C provided there is some insulation (tried socks so far, they've burned). 35W lamp without a dimmer does not sustain enough heat for draws I believe. Will look into cylindrical steel shell, however the GonG adapters seems to be the real problem. Idk

35w is more than enough, but you'll need a propper body for insulation as otherwise the heat just dissipates into the environment. A solid steel cylinder won't work. Conducts the heat too good and will suck the heat away from the heater cover, where you want it. And you'll burn your fingers on the steel, when trying to hold it.

An relatively simple way to make a log body is from a wooden handrail (about 50 mm in diameter) with a simple power drill and a 30 or 35 mm Forstner bit, to make the centre hole/boring. You'll also need a thin ss reflector at the inside of the bore, to reflect radiation heat back to the heater cover and to diffuse the glare. Another idea might be a perforated aluminum or ss sheet, rolled up, like in the Eterra Tulip: http://www.lightwell.net/tulip/te2.html

 

[Abysmal Vapor]

35w is more than enough, but you'll need a propper body for insulation as otherwise the heat just dissipates into the environment. A solid steel cylinder won't work. Conducts the heat too good and will suck the heat away from the heater cover, where you want it. And you'll burn your fingers on the steel, when trying to hold it.

An relatively simple way to make a log body is from a wooden handrail (about 50 mm in diameter) with a simple power drill and a 30 or 35 mm Forstner bit, to make the centre hole/boring. You'll also need a thin ss reflector at the inside of the bore, to reflect radiation heat back to the heater cover and to diffuse the glare. Another idea might be a perforated aluminum or ss sheet, rolled up, like in the Eterra Tulip: http://www.lightwell.net/tulip/te2.html

There is one kind of auto exhaust pipe that is right for the task. I think someone already did a ceramic element DIY vape .. kind of like a DIY nano/lifesaber cross. I think it is somewhere along the threads.
Anyway I have found that the guy i bought the SS foil from has decorative grade SS foils which are etched with various patterns and have no coatings/paints or whatver,there also various perforated sizes, i have though for some time to give it a go,but still doesnt seems a worthy investition at that phase . Anyway i plant to order some piping soon and those perforated ones are on the list. I
Etteras are wonderful creations ,when i was making my first vape purchase i was between the The moxie/tulip or the DBV,and now i regret i went with the latter.
Oh i also tried the foil thing.. It makes the top shine even brighter also creates a nasty hotspot.
I will try later both mesh and SS foil to see if it is any better. It concentrates heats so much that vapor starts to appear only by it sitting on top of the bowl. (radiation)

 

[blokenoname]

Well, might be a question, how shiny/reflective the surface of the ss foil used for a reflector actually is. Mine is shiny, but not exactly a mirror. I had the tapered glass joint recessed into the wooden body and the bulp not extending into the joint itself, but sitting directly below that, covered with a cut off ELB or some fine mesh. The ss foil surrounding that arrangement fractured the light at least good enough, so that it wouldn't hurt to accidentally stare down into the glaring bulb, but was still bright as f*ck and surely not recommended

 

[atadam]

I have tried the glass ball thing and bulb exploded. It is for use only in open luminaries.

That is nice to hear than experience.

Another idea might be a perforated aluminum or ss sheet, rolled up

That I might try.
My intention is to form a glass air path (except for screen and SS leads) with reflector surrounding it first, and cover with good old wood afterwards to not burn myself. That said, I want this prototype to be do-able with [ Bauhaus + Lab Glass Store + Steel Store] exclusively. I will look into Lab store now, have a clue where to look first.
Not efficiency nor make-up nor size but proof of concept oriented vaporizer. Kind of a "Common Joe Vaporizer", which a handy-man should be able to assemble within a weekend. I'll post after I get more glass. Lastly, where can I find an SS heater cartridge even though won't be a halo-log?
Edit: I won't use power tools like a drill etc. Small 5 bucks drills at most and every day "dad tools" like pliers, hand saw etc.

 

[Abysmal Vapor]

@atadam My daily driver is Halo-coconut for a month now. It is a really durable and simple enclosure,ready made by mother nature. I think it is much better than bamboo for the purpose.. I have made 4 sofar that are running strong at friends's places.
I am trying to learn to carve them in beautiful lamps,but still got a long way to go. One day after i master that, i might think of offering some up for grabs,but it want be before i feel it is really something thats worth it. On the pic it looks like it shines really bright,but it is because of the shutter speed of the camera. It is acutally a really pleasant orange glow. If you add enough mesh you can hide the glow almost 100% but ,i actually like to see some of it also watching it illuminating the scene in the bowl.

My goals are something like the one below,looks like Halo-nut met toasty top ..

 

[blokenoname]

The nut for a body is a real cool idea I like that

The idea of carving the wooden bodies with a pattern or so crossed my mind too, but gave up on it fast, as I don't think I can ever manage to master carving good enough, to really make that work.

 

[atadam]

I have obtained a mortar (pestle maker - not weapon), cut some excess part from bottom by hand and now have a design in mind (see pic below). Coloring is arbitrary, yet a lovely log with probable design flows is modeled in FreeCAD v0.17 (final sketch will be uploaded as FOSS). I need to know those flaws, 1st no reflector is there. Because I found only 6m long tubes for 316, and ended up buying 304 (outer surface is shiny) 5cm diameter ones. I will visit OSTIM again sometime to buy some smaller diameter and no shine ones.

Claret red are screens for entrapping weed, was too lazy to draw as mesh. steel rods over 19F-19M (green) GonG and square-prism-wood at its bottom are to fit 19F-19M. Mortar has 5.5cm inner diameter and GonGs are 3.2cm at most (where big screen fits). Blue GonG is 19F-14M btw.

@Abysmal Vapor It seems you do not carve coconut (white) from its shell. If so won't it go off? Also, are there any news with those "Coco-gen Log"s of yours?

 

[Abysmal Vapor]

Nice diagram. I have considered similar scenario with the TIG rods i have 3.2mm 316L . but i have yet to try it.
In your case. I think you have you bulb too close to the wooden block. It will char from radiation for sure. Also the wires will get somewhat hot ? (Do they get hot in your build? ) Better use 2 gongs for the body so there is more space between the block and the bulb. I make my heatshielding from SS foil for now,lately beeing trying to make a conical reflector with mediocre success but tubes are really easy to make,and to fit any size.
I also prefer bottom airflow compared to top. Because the wood down there is cold while the air comming from top goes trough an area where wood is hot and dirt collects,.
I carve all the meat from the shell,Virgin Coconuts are much easier than the ones like in the picture.. I fought more than an hour until i manage to get all the meat. It will smell like coconuts for at least a week.
Sofar nothing is going forward with the Halo-nuts ,other than the friends that are using them are very happy, and none have any glass breackage or some sort of malfunction . I use remote controlled dimmers that allow me to run at set percentages 25,50,75,100 and 1 button for a set custom %.
I usually run them at the set % which is a bit higher than 75% and i get nice hits. But if i want to get more flavour and kick at the same time. I run it at 75% and boost to 100% ,2 seconds in the hits.
I have broked a few dimmers though,i have yet to set on one that is durable and still has all these options.

 

[atadam]

The steel got hot and even yellowed from the heat previously. I have another 19F-19M for the job, however can't find a mortar long enough I believe. Till weekend will checkout coconuts for sure. I've ordered dimmer months ago yet did not arrive, half the things I order from AliExpress end up being charged back.

[Side-note for Turks out there, Ildam Cam (Ostim) has offered me 50TL(~8$) for 10cm scientific glass, 140TL(~22$) for T-shape scientific adapter. No deal yet.]

 

[atadam]

I built a prototype which will be upgraded to v1.0.0 when first successful vaping occurs. Design is below, actually coconut is not necessary yet is easy and cool to implement, thx @Abysmal Vapor (also for the name). A tutorial and FreeCAD file to be uploaded in separate thread. From there on semantic versioning shall be used (https://semver.org/).

 

[Abysmal Vapor]

@atadam Good job bro ) .. Looks like those famous Turkish cannons. I also tried adding SS foil few days ago as i received a big roll of 420a which is just 0.3 mm thick and i can do almost everything with it..,but then removed it simply because there is no need for it ),in my Halonut the bulb isnt deep in the body,so there isnt much heat projected to the interior.. but it is very useful for the classic log models. Pretty busy with some shit at work these days ,but once i am done with it ,i will get back to making a few more nuts ).. and hopefully my carving set long take too long to arrive from Banggood .

 

[atadam]

I am letting some friends try design v.0.9.0 (above). I've recently come across "Vandy Vape 316L SS" mesh and wire supplies, won't advertise any site here, yet these are the only online 316L I've found so far. Ordered 200 mesh and 0.9mm wire. 30 business days

 

[anycolouryoulike]

Loving the coconut! Hopefully I'll get to make one for myself one day.

 

[Abysmal Vapor]

@atadam Well there are local companies that sell it by the meter,not cheap though. I am using recently 420A and 430 mesh and i think there is slight difference in the taste department and none in the performance.
@anycolouryoulike ) Those coconuts are quite fun to work with,they are stronger than bamboo,just finding ones with the right shape and shell thickness(no thin spots),in the end it might end up being way more expensive than drilling a hole into a wooden block,cylinder.
I really hope soon i can explore more the carving,but the tools take bloody forever to arrive from China and i cannot simply afford to invest too much into this and go shop locally.
There are already like 9 Halonuts existing,sofar feedback is good.I am rotating 4 of them for my personal use and others are at friends places,sofar no glass breackages or any sort of malfunction other than burning a few crappy dimmers and one charger. Managed to bring back to life few of those rotary led dimmers by replacing the wiring ,which is way to thin for that amperage IMO. The ready made solutions on the market are real POS ,at least in their majority.. I guess i might end up opting for buckboost with LCD there are some affordable ones that can handle 5A ,or LCD PWMs. I would really like to have remote control,so might end up trying some of high end led dimmers on the market one day,but the next thing i wanna do is to add a boost button to the body, to bring more of a analog feeling to the control.
Edited:
Now i realize that to add the boost to the log itself ,will require mounting the controller/dimmer inside the log body,which might make things a bit more bulky .

 

[atadam]

Just a simple thought, instead of 2 wires into the log, provide common ground - dimmer attached anode - and bare anode with a switch to alternate anodes(?) as you wish. if dimmer is left out bulb works full power. All the bulky stuff still on desk-top. Might be pure fantasy though, depends on source and what kind of dimmer one has.