Halo-log

[KeroZen]

Well the idea was just to produce less light, because as mentioned in the other thread the main problem with halogen is that it blinds you if you can see the bulb when drawing...

Also more heat rather than light (ie. shifting the spectrum towards IR rather than visible wavelengths) would improve efficiency. Doesn't matter much for a desktop (although energy ain't free for the planet, so every way to spare some is welcome) but for a portable it's a necessity.

 

[Abysmal Vapor]

Well the idea was just to produce less light, because as mentioned in the other thread the main problem with halogen is that it blinds you if you can see the bulb when drawing...

Also more heat rather than light (ie. shifting the spectrum towards IR rather than visible wavelengths) would improve efficiency. Doesn't matter much for a desktop (although energy ain't free for the planet, so every way to spare some is welcome) but for a portable it's a necessity.

Well ,this problem is solved via SS316L mesh . It really increase IR tenfold ,the more mesh there is the more i need to dim the bulb.
Radiation at 50watts full power is so great that i managed to melt 500 and 400 mesh, with 200 mesh there is never a glow though. I guess smaller holes = more heat ,although the bigger the mesh size the smaller its mass is.(holes sizes decreases when mesh size increases)
Anyway if not run full power it wont melt even 500 and 400 mesh so they are good to go too,but just not fool proof.
I plan on making five heaters as parts arrive to show radiation of the bulb at vaping temps with 500,400,200,120 ,80 mesh and post a side by side photo.

 

[blokenoname]

Setting the bulb into a kind of closed ss core, into the outer sleeve so that it's not directly in the airpath but rather heating up the metal, which in turn heats up the air, would also be an interesting appoach. Especially for a higher powered heater.

 

[Abysmal Vapor]

Setting the bulb into a kind of closed ss core, into the outer sleeve so that it's not directly in the airpath but rather heating up the metal, which in turn heats up the air, would also be an interesting appoach. Especially for a higher powered heater.

This sounds like a pipe bomb, it is brought up to attention that halogen capsules are only to be used in open luminaries and i dont see that contributing to the purity of airpath,exchanging some glass for more metal.
Man last night i got so many crazy ideas about different vapes,that i had to write them down..Also an order of CUSTOM 316fuckingL cups arrived.. NOW i realize how shitty is the metal used in the arizer cup screens.. it is 304 at best, and it starts to crumble/tear apart after few torch cleanings. The 316L taste so much better and looks so much shinier ),I got different diameter 15mm 16mm and 17mm(which sadly is a bit big to go trough a 18mm female but will be used in other adjust a bowl system ).. ) The 15mm and the 16mm fit perfectly the 18mm male,i like 15 better ,it is also a perfect fit for a dynavap tip, i will post some photos later .
As mentioned i have other ideas but i plan to go to the end with the halo-log project and its variations.
1.Adapter Halo-log male end
2.Adapter Halo-log female end
3.Single glass joint male 19mm
4.Single glass joint female 19mm
5.Single glass joint female 14mm
Next is going to be the Halo-wand ,which is would have its few variation.
After that crazy ideas might come to fruition ,i have a concentrate vape idea,a cool 510 heater in the vain of the Project,a another XLR glass ball vape idea inspired from the Glass Symphony and also probably a 18mm take on the GS itself.. ,also i got ideas for vapes with CUSTOM made resistors from 316L and glass/ceramic...,will be trying seriously to get rid of the nichrome .
Looks like i will be having fun this year ).. never thought DIY is so satisfying.

 

[Abysmal Vapor]

@blokenoname Pff dude, i was wondering all the time how could i be so bother by humming while arent. I rewired the shit out my first Halolog,and it turned out that two of the connecting cables are silver in color and very rigid,i replaced them with soft copper wires and i now must use a stethoscope to hear it... It is not dimmer related... but some dimmers are real POS... Never buy these.
This one has counterfeits .

This one melts at 35 watts 12 volts thats is merely 3amps and it is rated for 12A ,my ass..

That one burned within a week,it is also bulky and connections are complete POS..

I am happy with this one

I have this one and it is working since 3 years with various log vapes.. now i use with a halolog. It is as good as the one above but it doesnt have control on the box.

 

[blokenoname]

Yup. Got the counterfeit one from the very first pic. Screaming like one motherf***g bitch

Actually remember reading about the faulty wiring in cheap dimmers in some commetaries on Amazon. But as the specific model discussed no longer had any issues, I didn't bother to look into the matter any further. Seems, it is more widespread and comon then.

 

[Goatbass]

Using butt splices now. Connector clamps were yesterday.

What sort of butt splices are you using? Since I've to get them from AliExpress, I'd rather get the right ones than wait 25 days between each mistake.

 

[blokenoname]

What sort of butt splices are you using? Since I've to get them from AliExpress, I'd rather get the right ones than wait 25 days between each mistake.

Just simple tinned copper splices 0,5-1,5mm for now:
https://www.distrelec.de/de/stossverbindungsanschluss-mm-rnd-connect-rnd-465-00128/p/30066669

If you want something super healthy, guess the only way is soldering the leads to the wire with silver solder and a torch and maybe some DIY ss splices, made from some ss sheet/foil. As long as we breathe all that shit that's in our air anyway nowadays, I can not really be bothered (as long, as I only make vapes for myself, that is).

 

[atadam]

Some news, firstly I am able to notch the 3mm SS with hobbist metal saw. And bought type G9 halogen bulb, which can fit 18mm female yet gets stuck at 18mm male. Maybe I should use tubes rather than gong connectors. And lastly, ordered thermo-couple, learned mosfets can be dimmers w/ arduino etc. If only I had a 1mm thick metal drill! Hey @blokenoname do you have any news on silver solder?
Edit: nm found Abysmal's question to Alan having link: https://www.lucasmilhaupt.com/en-US/products/fillermetals/silverbasedcadmiumfreefillermetals/8/

 

[Abysmal Vapor]

Spent last day building Halo-logs for friends,lol.. So many years i introduce them to various models and they show minimal interest at best..,a few of them are owners of Chinese conduction vaporizers thinking this is a good as it gets.. Now all of sudden after seeing my DIYs ,they all want one ...
I cannot really charge them for my labor ,it is satisfying enough ,that they will get more into vaping,but i cannot afford also to make gifts so i am making them pay/supply parts themselves and also they have to get a charger on their own,but that is pretty easy.
I got some practice,will be getting daily feedback and also will be able to observe the wear and tear of the pieces..
@atadam Hey there ! Can you post a photo of how the sawed 3mm looks ? Also does the place you got your wire ships internationally ,or at least to a neighbor country ? Here i can find only very large spools which i am not interested in buying..
Did you get a 220v lamp or a 12v ?

 

[Goatbass]

As long as we breathe all that shit that's in our air anyway nowadays, I can not really be bothered (as long, as I only make vapes for myself, that is).

My man. I live in the second most polluted city in the world. Very difficult to find my preferences in the healthy spectrum

@Abysmal Vapor can recommend a mouthpiece for the 18mm connections? I'm not looking for a whip style but rather a direct draw method. The bowls finally arrived and they fit marvelously into the 18mm m-f male ends. Gonna go look for a nice wooden pen holder I'll use for the base this weekend and should have a prototype ready by the end of next week fingers crossed. Friends love vaping but find it too costly here thanks to the exchange rates. This thread has been super helpful for us!

 

[atadam]

@Abysmal Vapor I got the 3mm SS from OSTIM/Ankara, by going into a shop, because could not find any website to send in small quantities reliably. The notching (forking) of an end is easy but might need carving an helix too. I will add photos after I fit the lamp to them. I got a Philips G9-12V-33W (if I succeed gonna buy Osram though (sold in packs of 2)).

Don't you have Indrustrial Sites with lots of shops in Bulgaria(afair)? In Ankara metro helps arriving the site, yet not in all cities as easy as that for sure.

EDIT: First of all the bulb was 230V (my bad, yet Osram's are 12V will buy them). I first forked the end but ended up making a groove line, then carving a circle around it to bend the wire around and so securing the lamp. I used small pliers and hobbist saw for metal.

---

 

[Abysmal Vapor]

@Goatbass A j-hook or a downstem . Glad to hear that Halo-log thread is doing good,it is made for people that cannot access/afford decent vaporizers,by a person of such. Also DIYing brings another level of vaping satisfaction. I hope more people get inspired,it is almost as good as home cooked meal .
@atadam Sadly not,only very large packs.Best thing i can do i order from France,but shipping is just not worth for small amount.Guess i will try China next..

 

[blokenoname]

Some news, firstly I am able to notch the 3mm SS with hobbist metal saw. And bought type G9 halogen bulb, which can fit 18mm female yet gets stuck at 18mm male. Maybe I should use tubes rather than gong connectors. And lastly, ordered thermo-couple, learned mosfets can be dimmers w/ arduino etc. If only I had a 1mm thick metal drill! Hey @blokenoname do you have any news on silver solder?
Edit: nm found Abysmal's question to Alan having link: https://www.lucasmilhaupt.com/en-US/products/fillermetals/silverbasedcadmiumfreefillermetals/8/

No news from Alan. From what you can see in your link, you'll need temps over 600°C to work silver solder in one of its forms. That's a different kind of soldering, what we call 'hard soldering' here, as opposed to normal, or 'soft soldering' (uo to 350° or so). Can't be worked with a simple soldering iron, but needs a kind of blow torch.

What I'll do is, going to obtain a strip of silver solder frim a mate, working in the plumbing business and see, if it can be worked with a butan torch/jet flame lighter. If it does, no problem to use it. From what I dicerned from reading different threads here, people also tend to speak of silver solder, when they actually mean SnCuAg alloy solder, that can still be worked with a soldering iron.

ETA: Main problem I see here though is, if the heater can take so much heat while soldering, without frying.

 

[Abysmal Vapor]

No news from Alan. From what you can see in your link, you'll need temps over 600°C to work silver solder in one of its forms. That's a different kind of soldering, what we call 'hard soldering' here, as opposed to normal, or 'soft soldering' (uo to 350° or so). Can't be worked with a simple soldering iron, but needs a kind of blow torch.

What I'll do is, going to obtain a strip of silver solder frim a mate, working in the plumbing business and see, if it can be worked with a butan torch/jet flame lighter. If it does, no problem to use it. From what I dicerned from reading different threads here, people also tend to speak of silver solder, when they actually mean SnCuAg alloy solder, that can still be worked with a soldering iron.


ETA: Main problem I see here though is, if the heater can take so much heat while soldering, without frying.

There are various grades of Silver Solder. I would Use one that has just Cu and AG or the pure 99% AG if i can locate a source. Torching is my thing so i dont expect any problems . Thing is i dont really need it in my concept now. It would be valueble for a classic logvape design ,because a fusion between the nichrome and SS is a must, i cannot really justify messing with another design at this time.
One thing is sure as hell , i dont want Sn in my airpath if possible. I know these things listed below might be present in case of certain amount is present and probably wont be a problem ,in the amounts used in a logvape ,but still it is enough to deprive me of a good night sleep.
Acute effects are:
- Eye and skin irritations
- Headaches
- Stomachaches
- Sickness and dizziness
- Severe sweating
- Breathlessness
- Urination problems

Long-term effects are:
- Depressions
- Liver damage
- Malfunctioning of immune systems
- Chromosomal damage
- Shortage of red blood cells
- Brain damage (causing anger, sleeping disorders, forgetfulness and headaches)

 

[blokenoname]

Well, all it needs is a single brush or two with the solder along the entwined leads and wires anyway.

 

[Abysmal Vapor]

@blokenoname Already said that it is probably not an issue,but i wont be taking chances when there are safer alternatives.
My knowledge is not vast though, maybe @stardustsailor could chime in and helps us figure it out..
Hey neighbor , do you have any insight to share on safety of Sn or silver soldiers in general ? (Here is list of the various types https://www.lucasmilhaupt.com/en-US/products/fillermetals/silverbasedcadmiumfreefillermetals/8/)
Also is Zn present in the solder an issue ?

 

[blokenoname]

At least, I've managed the soldering thingie now, without producing 'mountains' of solder and finally forming good and solid connections with just a brush of the tip or two. Thanks to PD's Tom and his short vid soldering resistor leads, BTW. That 3 min. vid was more informative re technique, than the countless websites with 'how to's, I searched before.

 

[Abysmal Vapor]

Übung macht den Meister .
I am pretty good with the torch some i expect silver soldering to be non of an issue. You just need to wrap it around the wire-knot and apply heat without overdoing it.

 

[atadam]

Could not edit previous. My bad again the Osram G9 type was also 230V, no wonder that thin metal at the lamp. Got a G4-12V-20W I know will cool down faster with draws, yet fits the groove perfectly, I'll find a way to fit G6.35 type later on. @blokenoname I meant the silver solder, not the solder with amounts of silver. Accidentally found out on youtube, but that particular guy was using a liquid flux that silver solder followed when heated. Another guy was using only silver solder but told it followed where the heat was. I think small amounts would be ok with an Proxxon hand torch (1300C) or similar. I believe the flame needs to be sharp though. idk

 

[Abysmal Vapor]

You need osram halopin 35w or higher . 20watts are smaller and their pins are very weak,glass is thinner too,i had few exploded in metal covers.

 

[Goatbass]

You need osram halopin 35w or higher . 20watts are smaller and their pins are very weak,glass is thinner too,i had few exploded in metal covers.

Doesn't the mesh wrapped around the bulb melt in the heat? Also does any mesh work? I have some random SS mesh lying around and I don't feel like waiting a month for the vandy vape mesh rolls.

 

[blokenoname]

I simply used some larger fine mesh screens (30 mm), you can get at any head shop. They'll do, until your ordered mesh arrives. With the 35W bulb, this shoud be no problem at all, re melting, as they are usually more on the sturdy side. Mine never melted. I also think, @Abysmal Vapor mentioned a few posts back his own experiences with fine mesh, which types he tested and which of them were prone to melting.

ETA: You can also take a look at my 'Da Cork Bomber' - Make Shift Homemade Log Vape thread. From post #10 up to the end of the first page is all about building a halo log. Later posts are about ceramic heaters and resistors.

Maybe you can pick up some additional info there.

 

[Abysmal Vapor]

Doesn't the mesh wrapped around the bulb melt in the heat? Also does any mesh work well enough? I have some random SS mesh lying around and I don't feel like waiting a month for the vandy vape mesh rolls.

Random mesh might or might not work. Sofar i have found that 200 and 120 mesh work optimally, anything higher or lower will either lack enough durability or wont filter enough light. Two layers is enough. I dont roll around the buld but more like fold it into it.
For future experimentation i will try 160 mesh to see if it is the golden middle .

 

[blokenoname]

Hmm... was just thinking. Came across a youtube vid with some bloke running a test, discharging a 18650 2A/h cell using a halogen bulb as load, that drew about 1A. He just wanted to see, if the cell would give him a full two hours, but what crossed my mind, was the question if you can utilize a halogen bulb as heater for an instant 501 halo portable, running it at 5V? Heat up time should be fast enough, I'd think, just the question which wattage to use to get the needed temps at only 5V?
Venus Apollo seems to utilize this already. Anyone else ever tried it?