I am w/ ya on the handle shape. I like the idea of a knob shape that has a flat bottom so you can rest the GS down. What is possible is another matter. I don't want to make something too expensive.
Do you make any other bowls??
The funnel is a lovely thing.
If anyone is looking for a stir tool that's long enough
@mistvaporizer sells the standard ear pick ones attached to different woods. I love my purple heart one:
The round collar is for stirring stems 14mm, you put it on the joint so you can stir and none spills out.
I like that! Fantastic color. Is it magnetic? A magnet on the clamp near the handle is a nice tool holding spot.
Great pics as always.
I just wanna make sure these are safe temps.
Your temps are fine. Sub 950F is best. The other rule is don't run it so high that you can see the heater glowing with the lights out.
The GS is measuring the temps inside a steel cartridge. That cartridge is surrounded by a heat transfer material and then has to warm the glass. Heat is lost all along the way. The cartridge is good to 1200F. The glass is good to 500C/931F for working temps but we are not even close to that inside the air path.
’m thinking about going back to the settings I first used when I got the GS (settings the original owner used) because it seemed like I was getting lower temp hits at higher temps
I imagine you are using an auber? The vape isn't running lower, it is just that the controller is distorting the numbers. The reason it does this is so you can run it higher than 999F or have an offset due to materials.
PSL is the thing that can fuck with your temps. Set it to 1.0 to see the actual temp. Anything else is PSL * the temp for the real temp.
Here is the rdk300 info:
Hold down the knob and enter each code. After you enter the code you can put in the values for each parameter.
RDK-300
#Code 155
PSL 1.00
HL 950
#Code 166
P 25
I 0
D 3
OTH 100
APO = this is your shutoff in min. 0-999.
more info:
http://www.auberins.com/images/Manual/RDK-300_supplementary.pdf
The goal is a stable temp that is -10F below the set temp. Aubers need to run a little off. You can use "P" between 15 to 25 to find a sweet spot.
...
Update
tldr: Water conditioning adds water to your hit
... and a particle sensor might be a neat way to measure the performance of a hit/vape. Oh, and my graph shows how consistent the GS can be.
The air where I live has gotten bad on some days due to forest fires. I got a cheapy air purifier and then it had me wondering if I needed to run it all the time. So last weekend I put together an air quality rig with some part I already had and some new stuff. I thought it would be neat to see what shows up after a hit from the GS.
Big thanks to adafruit.com. Without the arduino libraries Lady Ada wrote I'd be dead in the water and never would have tried this.
The sensor is a plantower pms7003- the blue box in the pic. Inside that 'lil blue box is a laser, a sensor, a fan that draws in air, and a cpu to decode what is going on. All it does is spit out data (the green data in the pic). So how accurate is it? It is made to measure particles with a mass like road dust so I expect it to overestimate the vapor particles.
If I compare the air pollution PM2.5 and PM10 with my local EPA air quality stations the pms7003 matches up or sits in-between. If I run a HEPA filter for 30 minutes I can get most of the numbers to zero.
This not scientific in any way, but I thought I'd take a few measurements and test out some vaping styles. I hooked my sensor to a pc to capture the data.
The particle sensor can't take a direct hit of vapor. Instead, I measured the air 4ft off the floor and 8ft from the vape. So really I am measuring the closed room and how vapor mixes.
The sensor bins sizes and offers numbers for a few volumes. Anything smaller than 2.5 microns can be absorbed right into the bloodstream from the lungs. The 0.3-micron bin has the highest count so I made a graph of that.
The setup:
The FC-ufo and a funnel bowl w/ a fine mesh screen for all of the tests.
0.09 grams for each run
A HEPA air purifier (winix 5300-2) was used to get the particles down to very low numbers before each test. I would shoot for under 50 0.3-micron particles per 0.1 liter and have nothing bigger than 1 micron before testing. The air purifier was running during all the graphed tests.
The GS was set to 770F.
For each of the inhalation runs, I took a single 5 second draw that filled my lungs.
Each style of line is a run. The X is in milliseconds so 1K = 1 second. The Y is the number of 0.3 to 0.49 micron particles per 0.1L.
I would really only look at the data after 100 seconds (100k in the graph). The peaks of many of the runs are missing before the room mixes up and we are really after mixed up air.
The top pink and grey dotted plots are runs where I blew through the handle on the GS and I had no MP on the fc-ufo bubbler. The pink dots are with water in the bubbler and the grey without.
The blue dotted/filled in line and the gold dots are runs where I exhaled a hit with water.
The solid green bars and the orange line are runs where I exhaled and did not use water.
The particle bins have big ranges fom 4-65,000 so I can't show them all in a single graph. if you want to see larger particles or whatever:
https://plot.ly/~symphony.vapor/38.embed
I used the particle sensor a few vaping session and it was neat to see how weak a second hit can be. I had proof that I needed to reload the bowl for a better hit.
This was a fun and informative little experiment. I've always wondered how much water gets added to a hit and this kinda shows what happens to air in the room. Not bad for a $30 sensor.