Sounds like sur_myevic, either way its fun to have
CuckFumbustion
Lo and Behold! The transformative power of Vapor.
Been watching the G43 develop from a nameless concept till now. 
Plenty of positives and I've been adding my two cents along the way as well. 
There has been a 'few parts as necessary' approach with this design through out the project. Unless you count the beads.
Less types of materials to worry about.
Something that small that runs of one 18650. Glass heater core. Handmade by a vape critic
@Stu, @duff and others are giving us a better expectation of things to come. STAY UP!!
Plenty of positives and I've been adding my two cents along the way as well. There has been a 'few parts as necessary' approach with this design through out the project. Unless you count the beads.
Less types of materials to worry about.Something that small that runs of one 18650. Glass heater core. Handmade by a vape critic
@Stu, @duff and others are giving us a better expectation of things to come. STAY UP!!
The Beagle
Bubbles & Bags
Same here, I would be interested in it if there was a way to skip the batteries.
Joaon
Well-Known Member
12v controller!
Could be plugged into a AC-DC converter a home, or directly into a battery/solar system !
And Boxmod!? That would be a nice portable wouldn't be ?
Abysmal Vapor
Supersniffer 2000 - robot fart detection device
I think that running off PSU would require one of those bulky meanwell ,bastards that have lots of amperage and can maintain low voltage like the RSP-4-200 ,but i might be wrong.. Anyway running things off 12volts with present lots of heat to the cables ,and increase in wire gauge maybe needed. Also continued operation for hours will likely project a lot of heat to the lead connection. I have already tried this scernario in logvape with a DIY resistor(similar to this one).. and melted my dc jack,i may give it another go soon though and see if adding the glass balls will steal some of that radiant heat,but i think that cables and leads would still get really hot ,due to the heating from the amp flow.. I think that probably fatter cables with a higher ohmage SS wire-resistor might be good enough for 12v operation and probably will try in near future to fiddle with this type of concept and let you know if it is any good.
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Seek
Apprentice Daydreamer
Of course there's a way, it's justa simple heater, just supplying the voltage to its input will do. He has used it witha power source in his streams before.
It's only a matter of finding an affordable DC power source and making a connection for it. Just makingaconnection for e-nails would alos be great, but not everyone has those, but a lot of people with glass pieces do.
Abysmal Vapor
Supersniffer 2000 - robot fart detection device
Connection for e-nail isnt that simple ,unless you can suggest place for the J/K thermocouple ,which would not compromise the safety of the airpath and still get an accurate read ? In enails it is inside the coil itself. The closest thing you will get to an enail performance is running it trough a TC mod which you can supply with a dummy battery connected to a suiting supply.
Actually after a quick look into various thermocouple ,it would be easy installing one like on the pic below can it be done without a compromise in concept purity.
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Seek
Apprentice Daydreamer
Yeah, I forgot these have sensors too. So I guess it would have to be a DC power supply. One problem might be the high wattage compared to voltage. Most 3.7-ish DC power supplies have no more than 2A for maximum current. Which is not enough wattage to power this.
I guess since it runs on only 1 battery and takes about as much as 3.7 squared Watts to heat up enough, it is safe to say it's a subohm heater, or at least very close to that - I assume not more than 1.2 ohms (which would be 3.7*3.7/1.2 = 11.4 Watts). We've also seen it, it's a wire coil, jsut like in sub-ohm e-liquid tanks.
And those can be tricky to power.
And also you must have very good wiring and contacts, or they would heat up too.
And I've seen him complain about the batter holder overheating, so it makes sense.
And also he said that different of supply wires can affect the temperature - another sign that the heater is sub-ohm. High-resistance devices shouldn't be too dependent on input wires and contacts.
That's becasue with a low-resistance heater, the low resistance of the wires and contacts and internal supply/battery resistance stops being insignificant compared to it. And you have to make sure they are high-quality and can handle that.
So I guess I was wrong - making a power supply for this is not going to be easy at all, unless he can find a supply that can really work with sub-ohm loads. Making even jsut the battery holder work can be difficult.
For example if the heater has 10 ohms and the supply circuit has 0.1, then 99 percent of the heat the circuit makes will be made in the heater. If the heater was only 0.3 ohms, then 25 percent of the heat would be generated in the suppyl circuitry - the wires, contacts, batteries or inside the supply. The more resitant parts heating up more than the more conductive ones.
I guess since it runs on only 1 battery and takes about as much as 3.7 squared Watts to heat up enough, it is safe to say it's a subohm heater, or at least very close to that - I assume not more than 1.2 ohms (which would be 3.7*3.7/1.2 = 11.4 Watts). We've also seen it, it's a wire coil, jsut like in sub-ohm e-liquid tanks.
And those can be tricky to power.
And also you must have very good wiring and contacts, or they would heat up too.
And I've seen him complain about the batter holder overheating, so it makes sense.
And also he said that different of supply wires can affect the temperature - another sign that the heater is sub-ohm. High-resistance devices shouldn't be too dependent on input wires and contacts.
That's becasue with a low-resistance heater, the low resistance of the wires and contacts and internal supply/battery resistance stops being insignificant compared to it. And you have to make sure they are high-quality and can handle that.
So I guess I was wrong - making a power supply for this is not going to be easy at all, unless he can find a supply that can really work with sub-ohm loads. Making even jsut the battery holder work can be difficult.
For example if the heater has 10 ohms and the supply circuit has 0.1, then 99 percent of the heat the circuit makes will be made in the heater. If the heater was only 0.3 ohms, then 25 percent of the heat would be generated in the suppyl circuitry - the wires, contacts, batteries or inside the supply. The more resitant parts heating up more than the more conductive ones.
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LabPong
Well-Known Member
This vape is not about being a dedicated desktop or being tethered by wires to anything but the vape and rig itself. It is about it being desktop type power/extraction level yet being un-tethered! And it has more than exceeded that even though I have not used it with just a battery and cradle....that will come soon when Bud finalizes how he wants to handle the safety issue there.
Actually Bud is going to try to make more than one vape. They will be different but may use the same heater type. His next one is going to be a self contained box and full portable. After that he mentioned possible full desktop or other heater type. That is his basic outlook for what he is trying to create.
That said, it kicks ass! I really enjoy using it. I put it right up there with my Elev8r and Flowerpot.
Actually Bud is going to try to make more than one vape. They will be different but may use the same heater type. His next one is going to be a self contained box and full portable. After that he mentioned possible full desktop or other heater type. That is his basic outlook for what he is trying to create.
That said, it kicks ass! I really enjoy using it. I put it right up there with my Elev8r and Flowerpot.
I did some temp testing last night and here are the results. Tests were all done at 12w.
First I put a probe into the heater area from the top to measure the temp in the heat chamber. I then put a probe into the middle of the herb chamber. After a 4-5 minute heat up I measured 3 stiff draws (all providing nice, thick vapor:
I realized pretty quickly that the heater probe was not deep enough into the "chamber of balls" and was therefore reading the cold air coming into to it during a hit. This doesn't really tell us much about the core temp so I decided to run another test and instead of measuring the top of the heater section where the air was coming in, I measured the external temperature of the glass so as to get a more stable measurement of the temperature during use:
Pic of the setup:
I was surprised that the temp in the herb chamber reached 260°C (seems pretty high to me) but I didn't come anywhere near combustion and the ABV was still pretty light tan. Vapor is very smooth and tasty, too.
I'm really impressed with this thing and think Bud has done a great job putting it together.
TL,DR This thing is legit!
First I put a probe into the heater area from the top to measure the temp in the heat chamber. I then put a probe into the middle of the herb chamber. After a 4-5 minute heat up I measured 3 stiff draws (all providing nice, thick vapor:
I realized pretty quickly that the heater probe was not deep enough into the "chamber of balls" and was therefore reading the cold air coming into to it during a hit. This doesn't really tell us much about the core temp so I decided to run another test and instead of measuring the top of the heater section where the air was coming in, I measured the external temperature of the glass so as to get a more stable measurement of the temperature during use:
Pic of the setup:
I was surprised that the temp in the herb chamber reached 260°C (seems pretty high to me) but I didn't come anywhere near combustion and the ABV was still pretty light tan. Vapor is very smooth and tasty, too.
I'm really impressed with this thing and think Bud has done a great job putting it together.
TL,DR This thing is legit!
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They need to be released already!!! 
The suspense is killing me!!!
The suspense is killing me!!!
AJS
Calm Consistency
I'm actually slowly dying waiting.They need to be released already!!!
I'm not sure what to make of last night's testing that showed 260c temps. I just ran a test at 11w and the results were much closer to what I would've expected last night.
After I turned off the temp logger, I bumped it up to 12w like I was using last night, and the temp maxed out at 196c - which again is more in line with what I would've expected.
I'll continue to run some more test to nail this down better, but tbh I'm at a complete loss as to how to explain last nights results.
After I turned off the temp logger, I bumped it up to 12w like I was using last night, and the temp maxed out at 196c - which again is more in line with what I would've expected.
I'll continue to run some more test to nail this down better, but tbh I'm at a complete loss as to how to explain last nights results.
We appreciate your testing Stu!I'm not sure what to make of last night's testing that showed 260c temps. I just ran a test at 11w and the results were much closer to what I would've expected last night.
After I turned off the temp logger, I bumped it up to 12w like I was using last night, and the temp maxed out at 196c - which again is more in line with what I would've expected.
I'll continue to run some more test to nail this down better, but tbh I'm at a complete loss as to how to explain last nights results.
The weed shall dictate the results though!
I've had the same thought for some time. At one point I convinced myself that I should make that design and share it with the world, but then the dab wore off and I remembered that I'm a lazy SOB.
Seek
Apprentice Daydreamer
Box mods are built to handle sub-ohm heaters at even much higher wattages than this. Their power circuits must have very low resistance. That would be the reason why he's having more trouble with a simple battery holder versus a box mod.
I think a box mod is actually the best choice of power source for this kind of vape. It also has built in wattage and temp control and other bells and whistles.
Most portable vapes are basically a custom box mod with a custom built-in heater. And since box mods are so good nowadays, it's understandalbe and great that there are a lot of portable vapes coming out, that ditch the custom box mod part and make jsut the heater with a 510 connection.
It's a win-win situation for both manufacturers and users. Manufacturers can focus on the important part - the heater and delivery, while the power source can be third party with a lot of choices, cheaper and with much better features than a custom built-in power source would deliver.
I think a box mod is actually the best choice of power source for this kind of vape. It also has built in wattage and temp control and other bells and whistles.
Most portable vapes are basically a custom box mod with a custom built-in heater. And since box mods are so good nowadays, it's understandalbe and great that there are a lot of portable vapes coming out, that ditch the custom box mod part and make jsut the heater with a 510 connection.
It's a win-win situation for both manufacturers and users. Manufacturers can focus on the important part - the heater and delivery, while the power source can be third party with a lot of choices, cheaper and with much better features than a custom built-in power source would deliver.
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stickstones
Vapor concierge
Pretty sure it levels out, but I haven't been watching too closely to mark the "end of hit". I'll zoom in on a hit and chart it with proper markings in a bit to better answer your question.