Terpenetime
Well-Known Member
Are you allowing around 4 minutes for the G43 to get up to temperature before you take your first hit?
BTW, like @LabPong, I also run typically mine in the low 10’s.
Are you allowing around 4 minutes for the G43 to get up to temperature before you take your first hit?
BTW, like @LabPong, I also run typically mine in the low 10’s.
LabPong
Well-Known Member
Good point...forgot to mention that...in fact give it 5 mins and go from there....will be at close to full potential then.
chlorophyll_man
AVB Inspector
12.5W for me.
sickmanfraud
Well-Known Member
What wattage do you "usually " use?
I have been giving it a 3 minute preheat. I can extend that to five minutes.
BestBuds
The Dude
I usually run around 11 maybe 11.5 depending on the herbs condition. I let it preheat 4 minutes.
LabPong
Well-Known Member
3 mins is not enough....let it got to 5 just for testing......then do 4 mins and see the differences. Take a draw every minute or so...it takes a few to get back to temp after a longer draw. You could probably go 30 seconds after...but 60 seconds is better.
almost there
Well-Known Member
The tubo firmware allows you to surf on wattage for up to 900 seconds. I find having a finite cutoff a huge boon as I can be forgetful.
LabPong
Well-Known Member
I thought it was only like 3 mins..... Does it get hot after 6 mins?
Yea the auto cut off is super helpful....wish I could figure out how to do that with the myevic
sickmanfraud
Well-Known Member
There is a newly expanded list of Tubo compatible software located https://shop.lamart.ch/index.php?route=product/category&path=72
almost there
Well-Known Member
As far as heating on VW goes, it’s not any different than running on surmyevic. However long you preheat on one firmware is the same on the other. My G43 runs cool, takes 13.5 watts minimum and upwards of a 4 min preheat. I was playing around with the different firmwares to see if it would improve performance but haven’t notice much difference. The timer is much better on the tubo firmware also, on surmyevic the timer display readings every few seconds which drive me nuts
LabPong
Well-Known Member
That is good to know thanks.....but what about the warning on his site about the new version....
"Be careful when running the firmware with non-TUBO heaters." ?
Baron23
Well-Known Member
I used to run my mod version at 12 or 13 watts but have found that longer pre-heat works better for thickening up the vapor.
I still have the mod version, but have been running the sled version lately and love it. Four minutes pre-heat and about a minute between draws if you are patient enough will annihilate .2 -.25 g of flower.
I leave the batt in and running during reload which takes enough time that I don't pre-heat after the first load, personally.
Good device. Main challenge it cleaning it thoroughly. I will dip it in ISO up to the glass balls, but I don't see myself ever taking it apart and cleaning the balls, etc.
I still have the mod version, but have been running the sled version lately and love it. Four minutes pre-heat and about a minute between draws if you are patient enough will annihilate .2 -.25 g of flower.
I leave the batt in and running during reload which takes enough time that I don't pre-heat after the first load, personally.
Good device. Main challenge it cleaning it thoroughly. I will dip it in ISO up to the glass balls, but I don't see myself ever taking it apart and cleaning the balls, etc.
I know I said this the other day, but are we sure there isn't conduction going on here? The only vaporizer I've ever had to wait between draws like that is the Arizer portables. Do you guys have any other convection vapes that need recovery time after a draw?
Baron23
Well-Known Member
Having handled the G43, I would say no...there is no significant conduction component. Now, if you leave it on with a load in the oven and walk away for an hour, you may well degrade your flower. but this is the same as, for example, an EVO. Yep, convection but the bamboo does get hot so if a load is left in there for an extended period it kind of degrades, IME.
The recovery time is for the glass balls. Basically, the heater just heats the balls which are a heat sink. When you draw, you pull heat from the glass balls.
@LabPong first turned me on to the idea that the G43 works best with a really hard and fast draw and I have found that to be true. The glass balls store a good bit of heat and will release it quickly with a hard draw and toast a load very nicely.
Again, and not to belabor the point about cleaning and I know others will think nothing of taking a G43 apart to clean, but to me this is an eventually consumable item. But, tbh I think all portables are eventually consumable and for the price of the G43 I'm ok with that.
With that said, I believe I can run the G43 for quite some time before I think its trashed. Don't know how long cause mine are still running well.
Terpenetime
Well-Known Member
I found it a bit daunting the first time but in all honesty, it’s not at all difficult. There’s a video that Bud did which shows you everything you need to know. Essentially you need to remove a dished screen and then two further basket screens in order to release the glass balls. Once they’re out of the way you’ve got enough to access to clean everything with Q-Tips and ISO. The most difficult bit is getting the balls back in as they do seem to have a life of their own
Personally speaking, unless I drop it and break the glass, I’m hoping to get a lifetime of use out of my G43’s. Bloody good job too as they are my absolute favourite vapes!
Baron23
Well-Known Member
hahaha....I'm sure most would have no problems with taking it apart to clean.I found it a bit daunting the first time but in all honesty, it’s not at all difficult. There’s a video that Bud did which shows you everything you need to know. Essentially you need to remove a dished screen and then two further basket screens in order to release the glass balls. Once they’re out of the way you’ve got enough to access to clean everything with Q-Tips and ISO. The most difficult bit is getting the balls back in as they do seem to have a life of their own
Personally speaking, unless I drop it and break the glass, I’m hoping to get a lifetime of use out of my G43’s. Bloody good job too as they are my absolute favourite vapes!
But many years ago I learned "never give the engineers any tools" as I break shit just looking at it! haha
Lozo
Well-Known Member
@almost there I have a cooler running G43 too and am running the same wattage as you, I bought the mod through Bud. Glad I'm not the only one, tried multiple times around the 11-11.5 mark but was left feeling a little disappointed. But crank it up and it's a different animal altogether. Hopefully it's not a fault with the unit but rather its individual signature. It's super smooth for sure.
sickmanfraud
Well-Known Member
If someone has a G43 that runs cool attached to a mod they can increase the Watts.
What does someone with a Sledgehammer do if their G43 is "cool"??
Terpenetime
Well-Known Member
I have both versions and they are indistinguishable from each other in their effectiveness. If I was blindfolded, which isn’t something I’d particularly recommend whilst vaping on a G43, I wouldn’t be able to tell the difference.
However, the question you posed had an ‘if’ in it, so if that was the case I’d let Bud know. I’m 100% confident that he’d send you a replacement. As evidence of that, someone on the Vapelife Forum recently pulled the wiring apart as he thought it was necessary to clean his SledGhammer. Clearly this was ‘user error’ but Bud didn’t hesitate in saying he’d send out a replacement, which is 1st class customer service in my opinion
LabPong
Well-Known Member
The Sled G is built so that it will not be cool....or cool running. Resistance is set with the exact build of the wires and heater. The total connection has to have a specific resistance before Bud allows the vape to be completed.
So its heating ability/range is pre-built in with no variables because of the exact parts used.
Creeper
deep in the matrix...
Holy crap I'm going to need more batteries lol. So worth the one year wait thanks again Bud et al for this legendary vape.
I must be a bit on the odd side of wattage as I've found myself doing preheats in the 19w range... probably will go lower again as I enjoyed the flavour/effects at the 13w ranges.
I did have a casualty last night, I failed to secure my ELEV8R water pipe adapter to my bong and pulled it out onto my floor... RIP you will be missed until I get a replacement (yay Phoenix Oath!).
I must be a bit on the odd side of wattage as I've found myself doing preheats in the 19w range... probably will go lower again as I enjoyed the flavour/effects at the 13w ranges.
I did have a casualty last night, I failed to secure my ELEV8R water pipe adapter to my bong and pulled it out onto my floor... RIP you will be missed until I get a replacement (yay Phoenix Oath!).
sickmanfraud
Well-Known Member
I am also having to go significantly higher than the 11 Watts Bud talks about.
At 12.5 I am still not getting hits any better than my Portables?
How high can the Watts go before combustion comes calling?
Creeper
deep in the matrix...
I did a preheat at 25w for 5 minutes to see how the vape would be, the core was glowing orange so I'm pretty sure I would have combusted if I used it at that point IMHO.
Cl4ud3
Well-Known Member
I've never been above 13.5 watts. Heat soak time is more important than wattage as the higher watts just heats slightly quicker.
Make sure the balls and inner screens are not loose and give a 5 minute heat soak. The original 3 to 3.5 minutes was on the first sled version which was unprotected and ran higher wattage.