To quote some guy who has both:
Before anyone asks, no it doesn't hit as hard as the GS. But it sure as hell hits way above it's weight class.
btka
Well-Known Member
Hello got my G43 today thanks Hazel and Bud! I am a total noob regarding mods... I have an eleaf pico istick... tried to use it in wattage mod 11w like recommended... I read you should let the g43 warm up for for minutes... So for this do I have the power button for 4 minutes? do I have to press the power button when inhaling? Do I only have to adjust the watt to 11w in wattage mode do I have to change resistance or something else... can this be also used in tcr mode...
How are you guys using your g43?
thanks...
How are you guys using your g43?
thanks...
DeezVaprz
Well-Known Member
https://forum.vapelife.com/discussion/4895/g43-quick-start-guide-how-to-videos
Best place to get started. I don't think your Pico will work as you need to have a device that has the autofire aka cruise mode option or a device that has upgradable firmware. I believe the Pico supports Arctic Fox but that firmware does not have cruise mode. I'll let others that know more chime in, but I'm fairly certain your current setup will not work.
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btka
Well-Known Member
thank you!
I have artic fox running on my mod ... as far as I know arctic fow does not have a autofire option... so must I use it in wattage mode and press the power button all the time (at start 4 minutes for warm up until end of session or when ever I take a hit?
DeezVaprz
Well-Known Member
You are going to have to either hold the button yourself or use a rubber band to keep it held for four minutes while it heats up and keep it held while using. The link I posted should include most of what you need to get up and running. I suggest you familiarize yourself with the device and videos before possibly damaging your mod or device. I was a mod noob myself but I was able to get down most of what I needed for my Imp, Splinter Z and G43 with little trouble. Good luck!
LabPong
Well-Known Member
You will most likely not get more than a couple hits......holding down the fire button is not really a good situation to use the G43. I would spend $25-45 on a new mod that can run the myevic software on it. You can get some of the Joyetech mods that are past models and find them fairly cheap on the net. Joyetech Evic Primo mini and VTC Dual is what I use.
voodoo_vape
Vapour RebeL
btka
Well-Known Member
Thank you!
the problem was I had no compatible mod for myevic firmware bought now a wismec P 80... have to experiment with the g43 still... what wattage do you use?
voodoo_vape
Vapour RebeL
i havent pulled the trigger on this one... yet, i'd like to believe.. im in eu and im really held back with all the custom-fees that may be involved and im still getting ready for the 'dive'
hopefully ill be ordering it pretty soon..
almost there
Well-Known Member
LabPong
Well-Known Member
I use 10.1w either packing the G43 stem (stock pack) or by using the Elev8r bowl (injector style).
Your rig and draw style are everything for getting vapor at minimum temps needed. If you are using a medium to larger glass rig....with or without water....just draw a little stronger than normal and you will find vapor happens faster and thicker.
11w is the starting point......but now even Bud uses a lower setting than 11w now. If you using concentrates...then bump it up 1w and go from there.
Your rig and draw style are everything for getting vapor at minimum temps needed. If you are using a medium to larger glass rig....with or without water....just draw a little stronger than normal and you will find vapor happens faster and thicker.
11w is the starting point......but now even Bud uses a lower setting than 11w now. If you using concentrates...then bump it up 1w and go from there.
P.A.M.
Vapo Rising
Quote from VL member @Baron23 in G43 thread..
".and after seeing Bud set a battery on fire with a short in the G43, I am a bit hesitant with it."
What happened ? Too low volt in battery, Positive/negative touching , something other or unknown ?
Was looking forward for the battery sled version as I previously expressed. Wonder if this is isolated case or user error .
".and after seeing Bud set a battery on fire with a short in the G43, I am a bit hesitant with it."
What happened ? Too low volt in battery, Positive/negative touching , something other or unknown ?
Was looking forward for the battery sled version as I previously expressed. Wonder if this is isolated case or user error .
Baron23
Well-Known Member
He had a short....at the RDA end, I believe...but he had a short across the circuit and this is exactly why LI batteries need protection.
P.S. - this is also why he didn’t offer the unprotected sled for sale. Claude and I have one as well as Bud but yes, this danger is why he’s going w a sled that requires protected batteries.
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Baron23
Well-Known Member
Yes and who knows?
LOL, got it! Well I’m on it so I’ll be ready when they are!
GoldenBud
Well-Known Member
G43 has a smaller heater, less beads, less power, can't compare them, although G43 is a good hitter for its size and for the investment.
Copacetic
Somewhere North of The Wall
The G43 really looks fantastic, so why haven't I bought one?
I really am THAT broke, that's why![:\](/i/s/hmm.gif "Hmm :\")
.
Seriously, if you are thinking "what a crock, if you can afford herb you can afford a G43" please know that I would normally agree, ($100 is a stone-cold bargain after all), but I haven't enjoyed any for about 10-12 weeks now, I'm just sitting on my last precious 1.5 grams, saving it until my Nomad eventually arrives (I bought the Nomad WAY back when I still had some money [plays tiny violin] )
I recently realised that I already have almost everything I need to build my own approximation of @VCBud 's G43, except for the glass beads and wire for the heater.
I don't have a glass piece with a handle like the G43, but I have an idea involving turning a wooden tube to act as a heat sleeve (stainless foil shield between the glass and wooden tubes to conserve heat, and maybe protect wood sleeve), on a short 18mm RBT stem tube.
I invested a whole £1.30-odd on glass beads from China, which arrived the other day, and am now preparing to order some stainless e-cig wire.
I'd like to ask you good folks for advice on what guage to get (or, and I know this is brazen, perhaps @VCBud might advise me here?) and how many turns I'll need around the 4mm rod?
If Bud, or other members think that this request is 'out of order' then I apologise, and shall just try to guesstimate what size I need.
I'm thinking that the thickest e-cig SS316L I can get is probably the way to go?
My reasoning is that thick wire (and correspondingly long coil) will keep the need to 'glow' to a minimum, and allow high-ish wattage for a short-ish warm up time.
Is this how the G43 works?
Anyone care to offer some advice re wire?
Please note that my only intention is to build a single working unit to satisfy my own curiosity, not rob VCBud's intellectual property for profit!
I really am THAT broke, that's why
.Seriously, if you are thinking "what a crock, if you can afford herb you can afford a G43" please know that I would normally agree, ($100 is a stone-cold bargain after all), but I haven't enjoyed any for about 10-12 weeks now, I'm just sitting on my last precious 1.5 grams, saving it until my Nomad eventually arrives (I bought the Nomad WAY back when I still had some money [plays tiny violin] )
I recently realised that I already have almost everything I need to build my own approximation of @VCBud 's G43, except for the glass beads and wire for the heater.
I don't have a glass piece with a handle like the G43, but I have an idea involving turning a wooden tube to act as a heat sleeve (stainless foil shield between the glass and wooden tubes to conserve heat, and maybe protect wood sleeve), on a short 18mm RBT stem tube.
I invested a whole £1.30-odd on glass beads from China, which arrived the other day, and am now preparing to order some stainless e-cig wire.
I'd like to ask you good folks for advice on what guage to get (or, and I know this is brazen, perhaps @VCBud might advise me here?) and how many turns I'll need around the 4mm rod?
If Bud, or other members think that this request is 'out of order' then I apologise, and shall just try to guesstimate what size I need.
I'm thinking that the thickest e-cig SS316L I can get is probably the way to go?
My reasoning is that thick wire (and correspondingly long coil) will keep the need to 'glow' to a minimum, and allow high-ish wattage for a short-ish warm up time.
Is this how the G43 works?
Anyone care to offer some advice re wire?
Please note that my only intention is to build a single working unit to satisfy my own curiosity, not rob VCBud's intellectual property for profit!
Hippie
Well-Known Member
I'd go with Kanthal heating wire if you're planning on only using wattage mode like Bud n Hazel
The steam-engine.org calculators may be useful to you to calculate wire material, thickness and how many wraps you need.
May I ask where you found a 4mm glass rod please.
I could only find 5mm when I made my T53 with an 18mm claisen adapter with 3mm beads and a coil wrapped round the 5mm rod inside with the wires going out the side arm (out of the airpath) so you can use it either way up. Being bigger than the G43 it requires more power to heat so I've put a cheap heater cart in and use a PSU to supply the 25w it needs but a Kanthal coil would work too as it doesn't change resistance as it gets hotter.
The steam-engine.org calculators may be useful to you to calculate wire material, thickness and how many wraps you need.
May I ask where you found a 4mm glass rod please.
I could only find 5mm when I made my T53 with an 18mm claisen adapter with 3mm beads and a coil wrapped round the 5mm rod inside with the wires going out the side arm (out of the airpath) so you can use it either way up. Being bigger than the G43 it requires more power to heat so I've put a cheap heater cart in and use a PSU to supply the 25w it needs but a Kanthal coil would work too as it doesn't change resistance as it gets hotter.
LabPong
Well-Known Member
Never put wood in the heater/vapor path or the oven area. May as well use a SS rod section.
Copacetic
Somewhere North of The Wall
Thanks for the reply Hippie.
I hope to use a TC mod eventually (initial tests will be in wattage mode though, as that's all I currently have) and that's why I settled on stainless wire.
I've used steam-engine before, but I'm still curious to know what Bud uses in the G43.
After your comment re' 4mm rod I went to check it's dimensions and can't find it ATM, it's some scrap left over from glassblowing YEARS ago, so no source I'm afraid
, but I have seen "4mm glass stirring rods" on eBay before, from Germany IIRC though, so I don't know if that would work for you if you're in the States/NA.
Have you posted your "T53" anywhere? I'd like to know more about this
Ah, I've not described this adequately.
My intention is for the wooden tube to fit over the outside of the glass tube, providing both a protective handle to prevent burns, and a means to hold the stainless foil in position between the glass and the wood 'sheath'.
Both wood and steel will be entirely outside the air-path.
I came up with this solution because I don't own a torch up to the task of adding a glass handle to the outside of the heater tube (or an annealing kiln), but I do have a lathe.
So from the inside-out the parts will be:
4mm glass rod.
Heater coil.
Glass beads.
RBT stem (actually a 420 EDC stem with built-in glass screen).
Stainless foil (one or two wraps covering the entire outside of the glass stem, except the 18mm joint).
Wooden tube (covering the entire outside of the device, except the joint).
This arrangement will prevent me from watching the coil in action, so I intend to set up TC below 'glowing coil' temps before fitting the foil and wood cover.
Anyone with experience of building e-cig coils care to hazard a guess as to the guage of wire/number of wraps @VCBud actually uses in the G43?
Even if I have to get some slightly different wire I think that trying to get as close to the real thing as possible makes the most sense.
Hippie
Well-Known Member
https://forum.vapelife.com/discussion/4306/the-g43-vaporizer-official-thread/p4
I count 16
And also know it comes to about .85 ohms
Soooo you should be able to work it out from that
(don't forget the tails btw)
I saw the bundles of 50 German glass rods on the auction site, was really hoping to buy just one or 2. Thanks for checking tho
I count 16
And also know it comes to about .85 ohms
Soooo you should be able to work it out from that
(don't forget the tails btw)
I saw the bundles of 50 German glass rods on the auction site, was really hoping to buy just one or 2. Thanks for checking tho
Copacetic
Somewhere North of The Wall
Great!https://forum.vapelife.com/discussion/4306/the-g43-vaporizer-official-thread/p4
I count 16
And also know it comes to about .85 ohms
Soooo you should be able to work it out from that
(don't forget the tails btw)
I saw the bundles of 50 German glass rods on the auction site, was really hoping to buy just one or 2. Thanks for checking tho
Very useful pic', thanks for that.
If you are still looking for 4mm rod, perhaps you could sub' 4 tubing instead?
I found several examples of 4mm Pyrex tubes from US auction pages.
I was looking for it so I could run the 'return' leg of the coil inside to shorten the leg by a few mm, and help reduce the risk of leg/coil contact, but ironically the shipping to here in the UK is prohibitive!
Just search on the bay for "4mm Pyrex tube"
I found one offering five 6inch long tubes for 5 bucks (14 bucks shipping to me though
).I'd post a link, but I can't for the life of me work out how to copy/paste a link from my eBay app (on cellphone ATM).
It's listed as:
"5 Corning glass 6" Tubes 4mm OD 3mm ID Tubing .5mm Thick Wall 172NS USA"
If that helps