Fadvape WDLX Induction Heater (Orion Knockoff)

W

Woody

Member
Anyways......I finally got my unit tuned as best as I can get it for my Ti tip and low temp cap. First round of heating for the full 10 seconds, no clicks, nice flavor. Next few rounds the cap will do a quick double click (both clicks within a small fraction of a second) in about 7-8 seconds. Nice clouds, starts getting toasty tasting. I have to immediately remove the cap or it'll combust. I do about 5 rounds before the ABV is deep brown.

In stock form it would always combust in around 5 seconds. Sometimes before clicking.
 
Woody,
W

Woody

Member
Excluding cost, there are few design choices of the WDLX heater that make it superior to me than an Orion.

1. The bulged out corners of the WDLX case means they act as bumpers, protecting the delicate power button and charging jack from impact damage (like dropping it, something I will do too many times) while not impeding access. (Also fits nicely in my hand.)
2. The red silicone around the glass insert not only protects the fragile glass from impact damage but it also reduces wear and tear on the plastic that surrounds the hole while fiddling around during the insertion and removal of hot objects.
 
zatonic

zatonic

Well-Known Member
Woody said:
Anyways......I finally got my unit tuned as best as I can get it for my Ti tip and low temp cap. First round of heating for the full 10 seconds, no clicks, nice flavor. Next few rounds the cap will do a quick double click (both clicks within a small fraction of a second) in about 7-8 seconds. Nice clouds, starts getting toasty tasting. I have to immediately remove the cap or it'll combust. I do about 5 rounds before the ABV is deep brown.

In stock form it would always combust in around 5 seconds. Sometimes before clicking.
Click to expand...
What are the dimensions of cork you cut? Or a photo for reference? I have it at about 7 seconds with the middle cut out of the stock red silicone.
 
zatonic,
jardri

jardri

Vapor Dreams
the best method is to disassemble the board and use it a few times until you get the best tip position for your personal use, then cut the silicone
 
jardri,
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W

Woody

Member
zatonic said:
What are the dimensions of cork you cut? Or a photo for reference? I have it at about 7 seconds with the middle cut out of the stock red silicone.
Click to expand...
I disassembled mine and removed the red silicone. I used some silicone sheet I had and cut them out into little strips where I could add or remove strips to adjust the height. I tried just cutting the red silicone at first but it's not worth the hassle.

Approximately 7mm of silicone padding
https://imgur.com/6IdZR7P

Heating area on low temp captive cap (loose fit) - notice that the clicking disk area is not directly heated, max heated area is around the peak of the first top of the "N" in "DYNAVAP
https://imgur.com/oqujOZF

Slightly stretched out coil - especially near clicking disk area
https://imgur.com/XFSMPK9
 
Last edited:
Pablo-Diablo

Pablo-Diablo

Member
kokolokokolokon said:
@Pablo-Diablo @jardri
how did you open It?
Im trying to open It without break the case but i cant. I know It have no glue, im trying It with a knife with no results :bang:
Click to expand...
Oh sorry bro, must have missed the email alert...
You need a very thin sturdy blade like a scalpel or even better a Swiss Army Knife. You position the blade along the gap in the case and then try to force it in and it should just go through and when it does you use the blade as a lever to create a larger gap in which you poke with something like a chopstick (if you don't have a spudger) and the two parts should start to unclamp.
 
F

flyin911

Use, Misuse, and Abuse!
jardri said:
I have one of these coming home, thanks for all the info! Your pics are great information! Did you try the fake vapcap that comes bundled?
Click to expand...
I have one of the fake vapcaps and love the thing. I have several of the tips which are my favs.
 
flyin911,
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kokolokokolokon

kokolokokolokon

Well-Known Member
Hello people! I would like to change the xh2.54 6p (i think it is) to another “more normal” connection. There is a B- and B+, i think they are the negative and positive pins, but im not sure. Would be great to get a 3x18350 or something like that, but i dont know if i would need a bms too. Someone know about this? The main reason is i dont find any xh2.54 6p 12v battery.

And the last image is from the capacitor. I would like to know if it is possible to exchange it with 2x25khz smaller ones or something. I dont know if it is possible

https://imgur.com/a/0kl9uVH
 
kokolokokolokon,
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