Discontinued Epicvape EV-1/EV-2

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DrNick420

Well-Known Member
Sorry for all the back to back posts. I wish someone would make a vape like this again. I wish even more @ACE OF VAPE would bring the ev2 back.

Anyone who can work a butane flame powered vape and knows how to get the size hits they want will love the f*** out of the EV-2. I have used the e-nano and it is great but this is BOSS.

I was the kind of person who with a SSV left it at a very high temperature and used the wand distance/contact time to size my hits and get the temp i wanted, not mess with the temp knob. The on/off/turbo is perfect for me.

I have a domed screen facing upwards in my OGB pinched 18 to 18 and i'm going to get other pinch adapters just like it in 14 and 18 male and female.

If you have an EV-2 already, get an nice GONG and dust it off :)

EV-2 the log vape for flame-powered vape enthusiasts IMO.
 
D

DrNick420

Well-Known Member
pretty sire this is known and documentd...

buits the +/- on the bommo by that swich? kind of temp- cntroller i woiuld hope?
 
DrNick420,
splitz

splitz

Well-Known Member
I love that @DrNick420 is keeping this thread alive, and I share his enthusiasm for this grand-daddy of a log. I now own 3 of the EV-2's (last one purchased for $50 on ebay). My first EV-2 has been powered on 24/7 since December 23, 2014. I use this dry, daily, with various stems. After a lot of trial and error, I dialed in the +/- potentiometer to 86k ohms in the "ON" position. This may seem initially cool to some, however, when you take in to account the heat held by the wood/glass and aluminum (on 24/7) she's always toasty and ready to go. I recently broke my only EV-2 bent stem, which I loved. If there's anyone out there with an original bent direct-draw stem collecting dust, please feel free to shoot me a PM! :tup:
 
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DrNick420

Well-Known Member
splitz said:
I love that @DrNick420 is keeping this thread alive, and I share his enthusiasm for this grand-daddy of a log. I now own 3 of the EV-2's (last one purchased for $50 on ebay). My first EV-2 has been powered on 24/7 since December 23, 2014. I use this dry, daily, with various stems. After a lot of trial and error, I dialed in the +/- potentiometer to 86k ohms in the "ON" position. This may seem initially cool to some, however, when you take in to account the heat held by the wood/glass and aluminum (on 24/7) she's always toasty and ready to go. I recently broke my only EV-2 bent stem, which I loved. If there's anyone out there with an original bent direct-draw stem collecting dust, please feel free to shoot me a PM! :tup:
Click to expand...

Thank you for the shout out, happy to keep this thread alive, great vape ( i love the EV2 straight stem but have never seen or used a bent one but would love to )

my question though how did you figure the amount of resistance? i am not sure how i could safely do that.
 
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DrNick420

Well-Known Member
Please excuse my dumb assery but how do i get to the temp control anyway? do i have to peel off the things tha keep it from sliding around? i see the little thing that looks like there should be something to twist for - to +, but its just a piece of plastic?

1rlh5KR.jpg
 
RUDE BOY

RUDE BOY

Space is the Place
There's a piece with a slot on top of it down in the hole that you turn to adjust the temp, they sell the e-pick which is a great little tool to change the temp, handle hot basket screens and stir your loads.

you can find a small flathead screwdriver to do the job too but the e-pick is really useful.
 
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DrNick420

Well-Known Member
I've bought vapes from Epic at least 4 times and never got an E-Pick. they just didn't seem that useful compared to other packing/clearing tools, but i could be wrong!

I tried using a flathead for a long time today but it didn't feel like it was moving at all. Kept looking down in there and it looked to be in the same position it was.

EDIT nevermind I was using too small of a flathead. Okay so if I don't have a multimeter or the knowledge of what the heck to do with it... it seems like on my screwdriver its thee full "twists" to get to maximum or minimum temp. went all the day down to minimum and turned it once back so it should be on 1/3 heat if anything. @splitz Sorry to bother you again but does that sound like approximately where yours is? if you know at all? if not no bother checking man
 
RUDE BOY

RUDE BOY

Space is the Place
Ya might need the e-pick as the notch is pretty wide so the thinner blade on the screwdriver just might not work, I've really only used the e-pick on mine but seemed a screwdriver might work the same.

I don't see much use for the e-pick with the e-nano but find it invaluable with the ev-2. Kinda like it was made for it.
 
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lazylathe

lazylathe

Almost there...
Broke out the Epicvape today! She has been in a drawer for many, many months... But today she has earned a spot back on the Vape Table!
It's pretty hard to get to and stay on my VT!
At the moment, it's companions are:
1- Digital Sublimator
2- Roor Vapor
3- Supreme 3
4- QC MiniVap Teflon
5- Mighty

I have no idea where the temp is set, been playing around a bit to get a nice even ABV.
Using it inverted on my RooR bubbler and the flavor is insane!
Light vapor due to the size of my WT and the ZERO draw restriction this vape has! Will have to try it with a smaller WT to see if it milks it at all.
I actually prefer my Big Bertha to when i had my E-Nano, maybe because the EV is more convection.

Another satisfying feature is just holding it while on! Toasty warm hands especially now in winter!
 
PPN

PPN

Volute of Vapor
I liked mine but ,imho, it was definitly not a cloud machine and it took me some time to extract all the goodies. It's a different beast than the log vapes I tested.

Now I would be able to enjoy it more than I done in the past!

And what'a nice looking vape too!
 
splitz

splitz

Well-Known Member
Some 2018 EV-2 Love....

Here stands a majestic EV-2 that has been left on 24/7 for over 3 years!

She's the backbone of my vape arsenal, and has never let me down.

Pictured here during an early morning flavordosing session with the @DDave concentration chamber. Chamber is heatsoaked 24/7 on log and always ready to go.

"If you can see the vapor you're doing it wrong". I don't recall who said that/where I read that, but it surely rings true here.

No clouds, no coughing...just a mouth watering tickle leading way to undeniable physical effects.

Anyone else still kicking it old school?

20181026-035456.jpg
 
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eideal852

eideal852

Well-Known Member
Posts keep asking, but no one ever answers, re: boost, temp and how it works. I'm new to the party (late: I'm LATE to the party, but have a unit that I don't know whether it works properly. I had to rebuild the switch and now I'm not sure if I'm doing it right. Any Gurus? Want to pick some BRAAAAIANS. :zombie: (Sorry, my pumpkins are still on the porch, so why not?!)

I'd love to rap a bit with experts. Damn if the info on this vape is few and far between. Gizmodo review, this thread, and some weird one off reddit posts...
 
eideal852,
splitz

splitz

Well-Known Member
I'm no expert, but have taken all of my EV-2s apart. The switch is tied to the 100k ohm pot and functions as follows:

The switch in OFF position is providing the circuit a shorted condition (0 ohms).
The switch in BOOST position is providing the full 100K ohm load from the pot.
The switch in ON position uses the resistance from the pot that you have set (somewhere between 0 ohms and 100k ohms).

Summer months I leave my garage EV2 set to 68k ohm, and bump her to 91k ohm for winter months to account for colder ambient air. I've pulled the electronics out of another EV-2 and wired them into a box (much similar to the RooR XL controller), complete with a larger, easy tuning, 100k volume control knob. No more trying to adjust though that little hole with special tool.
 
eideal852

eideal852

Well-Known Member
splitz said:
I'm no expert, but have taken all of my EV-2s apart. The switch is tied to the 100k ohm pot and functions as follows:

The switch in OFF position is providing the circuit a shorted condition (0 ohms).
The switch in BOOST position is providing the full 100K ohm load from the pot.
The switch in ON position uses the resistance from the pot that you have set (somewhere between 0 ohms and 100k ohms).

Summer months I leave my garage EV2 set to 68k ohm, and bump her to 91k ohm for winter months to account for colder ambient air. I've pulled the electronics out of another EV-2 and wired them into a box (much similar to the RooR XL controller), complete with a larger, easy tuning, 100k volume control knob. No more trying to adjust though that little hole with special tool.
Click to expand...


Few questions, buckle up! (do you mind? It may be just me and you in here but I don’t mean to burden you-if it’s tl;dr tell me and I’ll revise! )

1. Are you disassembling and metering when you change from 68->91? (This isn’t even for me, just impressed at the technique!)

2. Have you ever had the switch/board jump captivity? (Do you know the ins and outs of the switch assembly?) mine came to me with advice that the “temp” dial had migrated away from the hole, and was tricky to get at- in reality the damn thing came to me like a maraca- tinkling shaking inside, switch moving entirely in slot, ! I took her apart and it was madness. Madness I say! Board pushed away, switch’s copper contacts bouncing around inside, the pcb with pot that has the contacts for the switch was free of the switch itself, and I wrestled it all back together. I’ll try to post my ridiculous attempt at drawing the whole scene, but it was from memory, I didn’t take pictures, and I was high :rolleyes:.

Anyway. I worry a bit that I ham handed it back together incorrectly (could I have ? And still "work"?). It goes together, switch moves properly, pot turns, but don’t know how it’s “Supposed” to work:

-Is the blue light the same intensity on both on and boost?

-t or f: Boost is 100% where On is <100% depending on pot (oversimplified maybe a a bit?)


-how's the packing supossed to work? first day before I confused myself online, I just packed the herb into the bucket screen at the tip (a la ddave mod on silver surfer if you know it) and it gave me pretty good clouds...stoned! But after learning the "right way" (BEHIND the bucket, right?) it's too far! No visible puffs almost at all ( though still stoned!) , which brings me to:

-your last post. Ive read 40 pages of "heavy hitter"'"boom" "pbbbbkkkhuuuooo" but loaded as designed? Almost 0 visible vapor, though herb browns, and I stones. Which is what you you're saying. Are clouds there?

-am I expecting too much? I loaded a grasshopper (own set of GD issues!) With the spent herb and it tasted shite but killed a couplemore hits and dumped. .

Are my parts just dirty? How best to clean?

Are you my mommy?
 
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splitz

splitz

Well-Known Member
Answers:

- Yes, I have had the switch disintegrate within more than one of these. In each case I have replaced it with a beefier 3-way toggle . It is a design flaw in that the entire PCB assembly is held to the bottom plate by the aluminum switch housing. Said housing (press-fit) was not meant to take any excessive force via switch or pot manipulation. Switch upgrade has been the only I have been able to resolve. Kudos to you for being able to put those little copper sliders back together - I gave up.

-I removed my blue light in each unit to seal up the enclosures air path from access to any electronic components. I do not recall weather the light intensity was a direct result of heater setting. I am inclined to say no, but perhaps another member could assist here.

- True. Boost = 100% ON and depending upon your packing and technique, combustion is quickly achievable. If you are set on boost in a pitch black room, you will be able to see the ceramic heating element glow orange after a few minutes.

RE: packing of flowers, it really depends on what kind of results you want to achieve. Are you using a gong or a stem? Yes, flowers go between the two screens. I tend to forgo the top hat screen, and adjust the inner screens closer to heating element on my stems. Packed and used as designed, I can very much see you getting more dirty tasting, cough inducing GH hits from "spent" herb out of the EV-2. When functional, the GH uses 50/50 conduction and convection, where as, the EV-2 is more like 98% convection. I have both, and would consider the EV-2 more of my "Gentleman's vape", and my GH (when it worked) my quick and dirty "get the job done" vape. I RIP'd my GH after the 7th time back to the mothership for repair. Gentleman's vape still going strong.

At present time rarely use a GONG, but when I do, I only use the 18>18 or 18>14 male-to-male pieces I have from my Vriptech VHW kit. They are the perfect fitment for USA built 18mm EV-2. In addition to being thick glass, they have glass screens included that sit on an etched ledge within the interior of the joint - screen placement is the same every time. The glass holds a tremendous amount of stored heat and acts more like a convection/conduction vape (read: more aggressive) cloud making machine.

Really, it just takes a lot of experimentation and getting to know her. Hope some of that helps...
 
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eideal852

eideal852

Well-Known Member
splitz said:
Answers:

- Yes, I have had the switch disintegrate within more than one of these. In each case I have replaced it with a beefier 3-way toggle . It is a design flaw in that the entire PCB assembly is held to the bottom plate by the aluminum switch housing. Said housing (press-fit) was not meant to take any excessive force via switch or pot manipulation. Switch upgrade has been the only I have been able to resolve. Kudos to you for being able to put those little copper sliders back together - I gave up.

-I removed my blue light in each unit to seal up the enclosures air path from access to any electronic components. I do not recall weather the light intensity was a direct result of heater setting. I am inclined to say no, but perhaps another member could assist here.

- True. Boost = 100% ON and depending upon your packing and technique, combustion is quickly achievable. If you are set on boost in a pitch black room, you will be able to see the ceramic heating element glow orange after a few minutes.

RE: packing of flowers, it really depends on what kind of results you want to achieve. Are you using a gong or a stem? Yes, flowers go between the two screens. I tend to forgo the top hat screen, and adjust the inner screens closer to heating element on my stems. Packed and used as designed, I can very much see you getting more dirty tasting, cough inducing GH hits from "spent" herb out of the EV-2. When functional, the GH uses 50/50 conduction and convection, where as, the EV-2 is more like 98% convection. I have both, and would consider the EV-2 more of my "Gentleman's vape", and my GH (when it worked) my quick and dirty "get the job done" vape. I RIP'd my GH after the 7th time back to the mothership for repair. Gentleman's vape still going strong.

At present time rarely use a GONG, but when I do, I only use the 18>18 or 18>14 male-to-male pieces I have from my Vriptech VHW kit. They are the perfect fitment for USA built 18mm EV-2. In addition to being thick glass, they have glass screens included that sit on an etched ledge within the interior of the joint - screen placement is the same every time. The glass holds a tremendous amount of stored heat and acts more like a convection/conduction vape (read: more aggressive) cloud making machine.

Really, it just takes a lot of experimentation and getting to know her. Hope some of that helps...
Click to expand...

yeah the switch rebuild is a bitch, and while I don’t know if it would work at all if I had it wrong, or if it was possible to reverse any part (swapping boost for on for instance) but i dont think so.

Just finicky I guess.

So, as designed, in the tube behind the hat, is invisible vapor the norm? Herb browns, eyes redden. But I do like clouds too! Just curious.

Maybe I just load the basket like an Ssv. And tip the whole thing like a beer!

I am interested in how you replaced the switch. I’ll try to post my mad scribbling.

Edit:shitpic
RBLTM4h

Edit edit: nopic. Link?
https://imgur.com/gallery/RBLTM4h
 
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ACE OF VAPE

ACE OF VAPE

Vape outside the box
Manufacturer
eideal852 said:
yeah the switch rebuild is a bitch, and while I don’t know if it would work at all if I had it wrong, or if it was possible to reverse any part (swapping boost for on for instance) but i dont think so.

Just finicky I guess.

So, as designed, in the tube behind the hat, is invisible vapor the norm? Herb browns, eyes redden. But I do like clouds too! Just curious.

Maybe I just load the basket like an Ssv. And tip the whole thing like a beer!

I am interested in how you replaced the switch. I’ll try to post my mad scribbling.

Edit:shitpic
RBLTM4h

Edit edit: nopic. Link?
https://imgur.com/gallery/RBLTM4h
Click to expand...
Nice to see people still enjoy the EV-2. I think I may have some complete circuit boards somewhere. If you want to replace your old one contact customerservice@epicvape.com.
I have some complete NOS units I may offer up for sale if there (any) some interest?
 
eideal852

eideal852

Well-Known Member
ACE OF VAPE said:
Nice to see people still enjoy the EV-2. I think I may have some complete circuit boards somewhere. If you want to replace your old one contact customerservice@epicvape.com.
I have some complete NOS units I may offer up for sale if there (any) some interest?
Click to expand...
What's the best way @ you? trying to get some info re: board replacement, switch assmbly etc, tried emailing and posting but not sure. Curious as to your last post re: boarda and new old stock, also just to thanks you!
 
ACE OF VAPE

ACE OF VAPE

Vape outside the box
Manufacturer
eideal852 said:
What's the best way @ you? trying to get some info re: board replacement, switch assmbly etc, tried emailing and posting but not sure. Curious as to your last post re: boarda and new old stock, also just to thanks you!
Click to expand...
I'm gonna look after we get caught up on black friday. then I'll post what I find.
 
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