Easy to read Skunk Pharm QWISO instructions

[On.ca-guy]

Batch 2...5 grams of frozen bud, not broken.....3-30 second washes, ISO right out of freezer....first 2 washes were shaken, not stirred...3rd wash was stirred not shaken...used the dull end of a butter knife to kinda stir and beat-up the buds a bit....usual filter after washes....about 8 hrs evap time this time as it is cool here this weekend....final product weight after scraping was .9 of a gram of sticky golden tar!...not bad I think?
Because i am doing small amounts, I am using a small mason jar. I found that putting an unbleached filter inside the jar as a pocket for the bud, it is easy to grab the filter and pour out the wash into a second screen/filter and let it drain while I reform the pocket and grab the ISO out of the freezer for the next wash. On the 3rd wash, I used the knife but had to be careful not to puncture the filter, the pocket also helped for the final squeeze.
I warmed a small plate on the top of a lamp shade just above the bulb....according to the thermo-gun to 147 degrees and mixed the .9 with ejmix and it broke down well after about 10 mins....used the syringe to transfer to the waiting cartomizer...made enough to just under full on the 1.6ml size.
I am pretty happy with the outcome, I think I put in a bit too much ejmix though. Also, Vapour, you mentioned purging...evaporating? I notice a slight ISO taste....is there more I should do? I know I can add 0 nic flavour but was just wondering if I missed something. I assume by purging that you mean evaporating.
I have purchased the Nautilus mini and will be filling it on the next batch most likely. Looks like a fun rig!
So....I have read most of the threads on this subject that I could find, and the skunk farm stuff, which is good cause it shows you the science...sort of. As I was reading and looking at the pics of the microwave/gravity setup, I was wondering what would make this process so much better?....I saw a pic they took of ruptured trichromes.....at first I was thinking that the micro could keep the temp at a constant temp to drain the "cannibinoids" out of the plant.....but those ruptured trichromes?....that's what made me think of warming the bud/ plant to just below boiling temp of THC then shocking it with very cold ISO. Hopefully the warm swelling trichromes will rupture to release the THC into the ISO.....please, any thoughts on this...I am going to try it this way next batch unless someone comes up with a logical reason that I may have missed.
Thanks

 

[Diazm2]

@Monsoon nice stuff man! It is crude tek, but those pics speak for themselves! Glad to see other people developing their own tek here and making epic oils!

Hello
Does your tek involve using a vac pump to purge the iso? Or is a vac pump not 100% needed in order to fully purge ISO like its needed with BHO?
Thanks a lot!

 

[Monsoon]

Hello
Does your tek involve using a vac pump to purge the iso? Or is a vac pump not 100% needed in order to fully purge ISO like its needed with BHO?
Thanks a lot!

Originally no, but upgrading to one was more than worth it for the quality increase.

 

[Budwiser]

Does it matter what % of Isopropyl to use or any percentage is fine? I can't afford 99% so I was thinking of using 70%. Is that ok??

 

[smokum]

Does it matter what % of Isopropyl to use or any percentage is fine? I can't afford 99% so I was thinking of using 70%. Is that ok??

In my area, 70% is called rubbing alcohol and contains lanolin, so my min would be 91% which is just alc & water (read the labels).
The only diff with the water is that it takes longer to purge (water has higher boiling point), but that can also be seen as an advantage if you don't vac purge because once the water is evaporated, you'd be more assured that all the alc has been as well.

 

[Hogni]

Thanks for this awesome thread!

I have tried it twice with nearly 2 yrs. old trim. Terpenes were not expect anymore and dont exist so.
Put the weed in a jar into the freezer. Same with ISO (seperate).
Next day washed out by shaking jar over exactly 20 seconds. Immediately filtering over 15-20 seconds. Nearly all of the liquid needs 5 seconds. Just a little amount needs a longer time.
Two repeats the next days. After one week purging and curing nearly 4 gr. dried QWISO out of 45 gr. trim.

QWISO looks awesome, nice hashy taste, really powerful but - color. Its darkbrown like tar!?
Against light it has a very deep amber color, greenish in no way and it has no 'green' taste. So I dont think its caused by chlorophyll.

Same with a 2nd batch out of the same (unused) weed.

What could have happened? Why is it so dark?

After all I have read and seen on pics I've expected a much more lighter amber color.

Dont know any parameter which didnt followed your advices.

 

[Monsoon]

What could have happened? Why is it so dark?

After all I have read and seen on pics I've expected a much more lighter amber color.

Alcohol extractions tend to be a bit darker to begin with and generally the results will be less golden the older the material is. If you used fresher buds to start you'll have more chance of getting the colour you want. If the only thing off is the colour I wouldn't worry about it too much.

 

[herbivore21]

Longer wash = darker material but more to the point, old trim = dark oil because the resin has degraded over time.

Qwiso need not be dark at all and I actually find bho tends to have a more orange color whereas the qwiso I used to make was much more pale yellow when made from the same material

EDIT:

By the way, just to show that QWISO need not be dark - here's a picture of some old Blue Cheese QWISO absolute shatter

Neither ethanol/isopropanol/butane/propane/etc will make your run darker than others necessarily. However, different solvents require different amounts of contact with your material. If your QWISO is too dark even from freshly harvested material, you washed too long. Depending on how you introduce your solvent to your starting material, YMMV in a big way. There is no single useful wash time - it varies by technique.

 

[N1ghtWalker]

Hi guys!

For the second time, I made a qwiso. With 3.5g of weed.
I left the iso and buds in the freezer for 1 hour, wash 25 seconds and a single extraction. I used to boil water to evaporate quicker and still took some hours. Already I shaved everything and the result was this:



Now I have some doubts.
After shave it all, I should warm up with a lighter, to make sure that the ISO evaporated completely?
I have to let stand for how long? Under what conditions?
And how can I save safely?

Thank you

 

[herbivore21]

Hi guys!

For the second time, I made a qwiso. With 3.5g of weed.
I left the iso and buds in the freezer for 1 hour, wash 25 seconds and a single extraction. I used to boil water to evaporate quicker and still took some hours. Already I shaved everything and the result was this:



Now I have some doubts.
After shave it all, I should warm up with a lighter, to make sure that the ISO evaporated completely?
I have to let stand for how long? Under what conditions?
And how can I save safely?

Thank you

It looks like that material has too much iso leftover in it to be placed on parchment yet. The reason I say this is that if the photo is not zoomed, that amount of oil is an impossibly large yield from such a small amount of flower.

Is the material easy to collect off the parchment? If it is slick and sort of swishes about when you try to get it with a dabber, then it is not fully purged.

You should not use a lighter to purge it, the heat and burning exhaust will degrade your resin. You need an effective heat purge setup or preferably a vacuum chamber/oven to finish the purge.

 

[N1ghtWalker]

It looks like that material has too much iso leftover in it to be placed on parchment yet. The reason I say this is that if the photo is not zoomed, that amount of oil is an impossibly large yield from such a small amount of flower.

Is the material easy to collect off the parchment? If it is slick and sort of swishes about when you try to get it with a dabber, then it is not fully purged.

You should not use a lighter to purge it, the heat and burning exhaust will degrade your resin. You need an effective heat purge setup or preferably a vacuum chamber/oven to finish the purge.

I did not zoom, but rather approached the cellphone. He got a 8/10 cm.

At this point, I can not see if it's easy to take because the family.
But I think that yes, it is easy to take. As for the purge in vaco, it is out of the question because I do not have the same way to obtain this material. Another effective solution to this?

Thank you

 

[Hogni]

Thanks Herb/Monsoon! May be material was to old. Its ok but looks alike Batman's personal stash.
Will repeat with fresh Chemdawg/Amnesia-trim and report.
Less washing time than 20 seconds will it not make better I guess.
I've purged it in a waterbath around 30-35° C. One week of curing made it much better.

 

[herbivore21]

I did not zoom, but rather approached the cellphone. He got a 8/10 cm.

At this point, I can not see if it's easy to take because the family.
But I think that yes, it is easy to take. As for the purge in vaco, it is out of the question because I do not have the same way to obtain this material. Another effective solution to this?

Thank you

You can use heat alone in the absence of a vacuum, but you will be forced to lose some more of the aromatic compounds (terpenes etc) that we prize so highly in all things cannabis. The bulk of your solvent can be purged at any temperature (and will even just evaporate if left alone at room temp in most places). However, when you are left with mostly oil with trapped residual solvent (the last portion of the purge), you need to heat your material up to the point that it is liquid rather than solid or very viscous, as when your crude extract is in this liquid phase, that is when any trapped residual solvent can escape. I find that temps between 140-180f are useful for this final part of the purge (use external temperature measurement! A stainless steel k-type thermocouple will do the job nicely!).

You need to have the temp consistent with no significant dips or rises during the purge. You should always purge in a vessel that is big enough for the final product to be spread very thin across the whole surface. A thin film is essential in boiling any given substance.

The material should be very hard to scrape off the dish unless it is slightly heated when the purge is complete. If the extract is liquid and swishes about on the dish easily at room temp, then it is probably not done (unless it is a very hot room!). If it is slick/wet and swishes about on parchment when you try to collect it with a tool - it is probably still not finished purging. Do not put your collection onto parchment until the whole purge is complete. Do not purge on parchment - glass is what you need.

Thanks Herb/Monsoon! May be material was to old. Its ok but looks alike Batman's personal stash.
Will repeat with fresh Chemdawg/Amnesia-trim and report.
Less washing time than 20 seconds will it not make better I guess.
I've purged it in a waterbath around 30-35° C. One week of curing made it much better.

Greetings, trim typically needs a shorter wash than flower. Shorter wash time than 20 seconds will likely be necessary!

Also I really don't know that strictly speaking, it is accurate to talk about 'curing' extracts where the membrane of the resin gland has been breached and filtered away from the resin within. There just shouldn't be anything there that you want to subject to microbial degradation (this is curing) in a good solvent extract or even rosin. Hashes of all kinds will still benefit from a cure, since the outer membrane of the resin gland is not breached/filtered away from the final in these kinds of extracts like the aforementioned products. I find that solvent extracts and rosins do not get better with time, unless they were underpurged and even then 'better' is not good!

This takes me to your temps. 30-35c are very low temperatures for a purge and may not achieve much in the final stage of the purge I mention above since it may not be sufficient heat to get your material into a liquid phase and allow trapped solvent vapors to escape. My temps above will assist you in the final purge step.

BTW, if you are seeking a reply from me (always happy to help when I have time!), it is best to either tag me in your post (using the @ symbol and typing my name after it) or click the reply button under the post of mine you are responding to. I only say this because I have missed a number of your replies for a quite a while since no notification appeared to let me know of it

 

[Hogni]

@herbivore21: Thx a lot!
Next run I will do as recommended and report

You can use heat alone in the absence of a vacuum, but you will be forced to lose some more of the aromatic compounds (terpenes etc) that we prize so highly in all things cannabis. The bulk of your solvent can be purged at any temperature (and will even just evaporate if left alone at room temp in most places). However, when you are left with mostly oil with trapped residual solvent (the last portion of the purge), you need to heat your material up to the point that it is liquid rather than solid or very viscous, as when your crude extract is in this liquid phase, that is when any trapped residual solvent can escape. I find that temps between 140-180f are useful for this final part of the purge (use external temperature measurement! A stainless steel k-type thermocouple will do the job nicely!).

You need to have the temp consistent with no significant dips or rises during the purge. You should always purge in a vessel that is big enough for the final product to be spread very thin across the whole surface. A thin film is essential in boiling any given substance.

The material should be very hard to scrape off the dish unless it is slightly heated when the purge is complete. If the extract is liquid and swishes about on the dish easily at room temp, then it is probably not done (unless it is a very hot room!). If it is slick/wet and swishes about on parchment when you try to collect it with a tool - it is probably still not finished purging. Do not put your collection onto parchment until the whole purge is complete. Do not purge on parchment - glass is what you need.


Greetings, trim typically needs a shorter wash than flower. Shorter wash time than 20 seconds will likely be necessary!

Also I really don't know that strictly speaking, it is accurate to talk about 'curing' extracts where the membrane of the resin gland has been breached and filtered away from the resin within. There just shouldn't be anything there that you want to subject to microbial degradation (this is curing) in a good solvent extract or even rosin. Hashes of all kinds will still benefit from a cure, since the outer membrane of the resin gland is not breached/filtered away from the final in these kinds of extracts like the aforementioned products. I find that solvent extracts and rosins do not get better with time, unless they were underpurged and even then 'better' is not good!

This takes me to your temps. 30-35c are very low temperatures for a purge and may not achieve much in the final stage of the purge I mention above since it may not be sufficient heat to get your material into a liquid phase and allow trapped solvent vapors to escape. My temps above will assist you in the final purge step.

BTW, if you are seeking a reply from me (always happy to help when I have time!), it is best to either tag me in your post (using the @ symbol and typing my name after it) or click the reply button under the post of mine you are responding to. I only say this because I have missed a number of your replies for a quite a while since no notification appeared to let me know of it

 

[herbivore21]

@herbivore21: Thx a lot!
Next run I will do as recommended and report

Glad to help I look forward to hearing about your results!

 

[N1ghtWalker]

You can use heat alone in the absence of a vacuum, but you will be forced to lose some more of the aromatic compounds (terpenes etc) that we prize so highly in all things cannabis. The bulk of your solvent can be purged at any temperature (and will even just evaporate if left alone at room temp in most places). However, when you are left with mostly oil with trapped residual solvent (the last portion of the purge), you need to heat your material up to the point that it is liquid rather than solid or very viscous, as when your crude extract is in this liquid phase, that is when any trapped residual solvent can escape. I find that temps between 140-180f are useful for this final part of the purge (use external temperature measurement! A stainless steel k-type thermocouple will do the job nicely!).

You need to have the temp consistent with no significant dips or rises during the purge. You should always purge in a vessel that is big enough for the final product to be spread very thin across the whole surface. A thin film is essential in boiling any given substance.

The material should be very hard to scrape off the dish unless it is slightly heated when the purge is complete. If the extract is liquid and swishes about on the dish easily at room temp, then it is probably not done (unless it is a very hot room!). If it is slick/wet and swishes about on parchment when you try to collect it with a tool - it is probably still not finished purging. Do not put your collection onto parchment until the whole purge is complete. Do not purge on parchment - glass is what you need.

I think I realized everything you said.
I failed precisely at this point. Maybe that's why, when I inhale dab, I get a little headache. Once you have a reasonable amount (10G), I aprefeiçar this step.

Thank you for guidance!

PS: It is possible, make the purge concentrated I did? Or no longer worth being and send to the trash? Thank you.

 

[invertedisdead]

@herbivore21

Gonna try a batch of this again, any thoughts on using a heating pad during evap?

 

[sickmanfraud]

I admit to almost zero knowledge of and absolutely zero experience with concentrates. The steps of this procedure are quite similar to the making of Green Dragon tinctures. I have been making between 3 and 5 batches of GD a month for the last 4 years.

I have a question: I have seen in some other threads that people make QWET and QWISO at least in part from kief.

Why would someone take kief that is already vapeable and make it into shatter?

 

[ataxian]

I admit to almost zero knowledge of and absolutely zero experience with concentrates. The steps of this procedure are quite similar to the making of Green Dragon tinctures. I have been making between 3 and 5 batches of GD a month for the last 4 years.

I have a question: I have seen in some other threads that people make QWET and QWISO at least in part from kief.

Why would someone take kief that is already vapeable and make it into shatter?

KIEF is cheap and effective?
I take a funky grow and pour and shake KIEF on it to make it a bit stronger.

Turning KIEF into SHATTER?

TOO much unnecessary work.

 

[herbivore21]

I think I realized everything you said.
I failed precisely at this point. Maybe that's why, when I inhale dab, I get a little headache. Once you have a reasonable amount (10G), I aprefeiçar this step.

Thank you for guidance!

PS: It is possible, make the purge concentrated I did? Or no longer worth being and send to the trash? Thank you.

Greetings, I apologise for the delay in responding as my notifications don't always seem to get through. You can definitely purge the concentrate some more, but you need to get it spread into a very thin film on your purge vessel if you want any success. If you just place a slab on the dish to purge, the purge will be very uneven and take forever!

@herbivore21

Gonna try a batch of this again, any thoughts on using a heating pad during evap?

Heating pad could be useful, but it depends on the kind of pad, the temp you wanna use and what else you are using man - please do let me know more deets and I can help more

I admit to almost zero knowledge of and absolutely zero experience with concentrates. The steps of this procedure are quite similar to the making of Green Dragon tinctures. I have been making between 3 and 5 batches of GD a month for the last 4 years.

I have a question: I have seen in some other threads that people make QWET and QWISO at least in part from kief.

Why would someone take kief that is already vapeable and make it into shatter?

I don't actually understand kief at all. IMO, kief is something that you vape if you have it, and should never waste time trying to make. Most kief is little more than super finely ground herb that fell through a screen in a grinder. Super high magnification images do not lie.

To me, kief is time consuming and often barely gives you anything you didn't already have in the original nugs. I love concentrates and swear by them for my medical needs but TBH, most of the time, kief is more like flowers in terms of resin quantity than other concentrates. I'll enjoy it in a flower vape if I have it, but it is by no means a concentrate compared to everything else I use (rosin/full melt bubble and dry sifts etc).

Some kief might be better, for example, a farmer's sift collected after somebody harvests their flowers and trims them over screens. However, this is not what most of us call kief.

KIEF is cheap and effective?
I take a funky grow and pour and shake KIEF on it to make it a bit stronger.

Turning KIEF into SHATTER?

TOO much unnecessary work.

Definitely agreed brother, kief is a nice way to make a flower bowl a little tastier and a small bit stronger, but no sense going out of one's way to make it, especially to concentrate again in another way!

I especially can't understand why people keep on thinking they should make kief and then rosin it rather than just pressing the nugs! These guys need to understand that finely ground herb (kief) is not melty, is very dry and will get even drier sitting in such fine particles. This is the opposite of what you want for rosin and is why so many have awful results with kief for rosin pressing. You should not expect to get much better yields from kief than the original nug when rosining.

BTW, honestly, anyone in here looking to do QWISO extracts should check out rosin tek with flowers. Don't use solvents if you have any other choice, solventless extracts will always be better than concentrates when done right (I have the benefit of being able to make all kinds of solventless and solvent based extracts at the utmost quality and compare in an all-things-being-equal scenario).

 

[ataxian]

Greetings, I apologise for the delay in responding as my notifications don't always seem to get through. You can definitely purge the concentrate some more, but you need to get it spread into a very thin film on your purge vessel if you want any success. If you just place a slab on the dish to purge, the purge will be very uneven and take forever!


Heating pad could be useful, but it depends on the kind of pad, the temp you wanna use and what else you are using man - please do let me know more deets and I can help more


I don't actually understand kief at all. IMO, kief is something that you vape if you have it, and should never waste time trying to make. Most kief is little more than super finely ground herb that fell through a screen in a grinder. Super high magnification images do not lie.

To me, kief is time consuming and often barely gives you anything you didn't already have in the original nugs. I love concentrates and swear by them for my medical needs but TBH, most of the time, kief is more like flowers in terms of resin quantity than other concentrates. I'll enjoy it in a flower vape if I have it, but it is by no means a concentrate compared to everything else I use (rosin/full melt bubble and dry sifts etc).

Some kief might be better, for example, a farmer's sift collected after somebody harvests their flowers and trims them over screens. However, this is not what most of us call kief.

Definitely agreed brother, kief is a nice way to make a flower bowl a little tastier and a small bit stronger, but no sense going out of one's way to make it, especially to concentrate again in another way!

I especially can't understand why people keep on thinking they should make kief and then rosin it rather than just pressing the nugs! These guys need to understand that finely ground herb (kief) is not melty, is very dry and will get even drier sitting in such fine particles. This is the opposite of what you want for rosin and is why so many have awful results with kief for rosin pressing. You should not expect to get much better yields from kief than the original nug when rosining.

BTW, honestly, anyone in here looking to do QWISO extracts should check out rosin tek with flowers. Don't use solvents if you have any other choice, solventless extracts will always be better than concentrates when done right (I have the benefit of being able to make all kinds of solventless and solvent based extracts at the utmost quality and compare in an all-things-being-equal scenario).

KIEF are the TRICONE that cover the COLAS.
At $10.00/gram = Just mix it with your session.

I use a MOD & ATOMIZER TANK with KIEF + E-JUICE + SYRINGE of HONEY OIL x 38 watts!

NIGHT NIGHT SLEEP TIGHT!

SHATTER is much safer than beer?

 

[herbivore21]

KIEF are the TRICONE that cover the COLAS.
At $10.00/gram = Just mix it with your session.

I use a MOD & ATOMIZER TANK with KIEF + E-JUICE + SYRINGE of HONEY OIL x 38 watts!

NIGHT NIGHT SLEEP TIGHT!

SHATTER is much safer than beer?

Most definitely my friend. If you can buy good commercial 'farmer's sift' style kief cheaply at retail, this is always worthwhile

 

[Baron23]

Greetings, I apologise for the delay in responding as my notifications don't always seem to get through. You can definitely purge the concentrate some more, but you need to get it spread into a very thin film on your purge vessel if you want any success. If you just place a slab on the dish to purge, the purge will be very uneven and take forever!


Heating pad could be useful, but it depends on the kind of pad, the temp you wanna use and what else you are using man - please do let me know more deets and I can help more


I don't actually understand kief at all. IMO, kief is something that you vape if you have it, and should never waste time trying to make. Most kief is little more than super finely ground herb that fell through a screen in a grinder. Super high magnification images do not lie.

To me, kief is time consuming and often barely gives you anything you didn't already have in the original nugs. I love concentrates and swear by them for my medical needs but TBH, most of the time, kief is more like flowers in terms of resin quantity than other concentrates. I'll enjoy it in a flower vape if I have it, but it is by no means a concentrate compared to everything else I use (rosin/full melt bubble and dry sifts etc).

Some kief might be better, for example, a farmer's sift collected after somebody harvests their flowers and trims them over screens. However, this is not what most of us call kief.

Definitely agreed brother, kief is a nice way to make a flower bowl a little tastier and a small bit stronger, but no sense going out of one's way to make it, especially to concentrate again in another way!

I especially can't understand why people keep on thinking they should make kief and then rosin it rather than just pressing the nugs! These guys need to understand that finely ground herb (kief) is not melty, is very dry and will get even drier sitting in such fine particles. This is the opposite of what you want for rosin and is why so many have awful results with kief for rosin pressing. You should not expect to get much better yields from kief than the original nug when rosining.

BTW, honestly, anyone in here looking to do QWISO extracts should check out rosin tek with flowers. Don't use solvents if you have any other choice, solventless extracts will always be better than concentrates when done right (I have the benefit of being able to make all kinds of solventless and solvent based extracts at the utmost quality and compare in an all-things-being-equal scenario).

Hello my friends @herbivore21 and @ataxian - just very quickly as it seems only tangential to the topic, but I also don't try to generate 'keif' intentionally. However, I do grind herb and put it in a 'pollen' box to dry for a a bit to dry and keif does indeed fall through the fine screen on the bottom (no, I don't know the number of microns). I don't make it on purpose, but since I get it anyway I like to collect it and use it just like @ataxian, that is, just add it to an herb bowl to increase strength somewhat.

However, I just went downstairs to look at some recent keif under a microscope. It very easy to see the green plant material that's in there. Stands right out. But the great majority of it is white (trichome kind of white) and shiny but are not fully formed trichome but look broken up and are jagged bits and pieces. At least, that's what it looks like to me.

Now for most of my life, decades ago really, keif referred to hard pressed pollen hash that came from Morocco, Lebanon, and similar places. We would get it often still wrapped in the cloth bags used to dry/store it in. Some of it sucked and some of it was outstanding. Still liked soft, dark traditional hashish better.

Cheers guys

 

[ataxian]

sorry -I blew it HUGE!

 

[ataxian]

@Baron23 I remember in the early 70's HASH
Blond/DARK I think it was? (AFGHANISTAN)
Walking around a beach party with a pound of HASH was kind of funny.

PAUL'N POLLET'S = Pressed KIEF + HONEY OIL =
STRONG STUFF

THAI BOMB OILER = MAX FLIGHT

SORRY to HIJACK!

TANGERINE DREAM = HONEY

TASTY = CIVILIZED