herbivore21
Well-Known Member
Please post detailed methodology and pics if possible 
Easy to read Skunk Pharm QWISO instructions
- Thread starter herbivore21
- Start date
ataxian
PALE BLUE DOT
Along my journey I made ISO, ABV, CUMBLED and now I just make BHO SHATTER. I have what I beleive is a dream setup! I extract in my back garden and take my purex to my work bench were I purge with heat (hot plate) and a vacuum chamber -27 x3.Ataxian, exactly right brother
like Jimi Hendrix said- I'm the one who's got to die when it's my time to die, so let me live (read: make concentrates) the way I want to. Lol
I will test out various methodologies though, lets make this as comprehensive a resource as possible. I plan to do this with QWISO, then QWET in the QWET thread
My SHATTER is pure and taste amazing.
If you can obtain the quality I do with BHO using ISO let me know your secrete?
The ISO concentrate flavor for me was unbearable. BHO is actually easy to purge. You being a scientist must know the boiling point of BHO?
Purging:
Butane is relatively easy to purge from cannabis oleoresins or concretes, as it has a boiling point of around -.5C/31.5F, or right about the freezing point of water.
http://skunkpharmresearch.com/bho-extraction/
Very easy to make a pure concentrate with a BHO extraction.
If you make it with ISO good for you.
The taste makes me sick.
Last edited:
herbivore21
Well-Known Member
I envy you having a vac chamber. I really want one!
Bro, the taste factor is all about how long the wash is and how well you have frozen/cured/dried your buds - ie how much plant stuff gets into you concentrate. Further to this, obviously leftover solvent not properly purged is an issue.
I have found that ISO is really, really unforgiving with time. You must stop washing after 20 seconds, 25 maximum!
Anymore and you start getting plant stuff into your concentrates that give you grief.
BHO runs appear to avoid this issue as the butane is simply run through the herb in a tube, rather than shaken together by hand and subject to being left to wash too long. Also I am familiar with the boiling point, lol Butane could evaporate on a hot Australian day!
However, any solvent can be used to make incredible tasting concentrates. It is just much harder to do with alcohol (especially ISO) than butane. I appreciate this. However, there are many, many of us whose living conditions preclude us from using butane for safety reasons. I understand that everyone loves their waxes/shatters and likely swears by them. All I am saying is that with some experimentation, some know how and very, very careful observation of the above instructions, even the humble ISO can be used to make great concentrates, not the nasty tasting shit we all know and hate!
It is all about the technique brother. I kid you not, the only taste I get from these QWISO batches is exactly like the smell of the herb I used in the first place. No nasty tastes during or after hitting this shatter
Of course, YMMV. There are so many variables that influence how a concentrate comes out, as all of you would know. However, I can reliably and in all honesty say that I can make stuff that tastes perfect to me. I have tasted the nasty ISO tastes that you guys are talking about, have made that sorta black nasty oil since I joined up on FC lol. I know what you guys are talking about, I am simply trying to say that the last 3 batches of QWISO I have made are of a seriously high quality, with no bad taste
@ataxian Hope you are well by the way my friend!
Last edited:
canj00digit?
All my days in a daze...
I use the same vac chamber that @ataxian uses I think, big orange label, bestvaluevacs or something like that. They're a really good deal.
I use mine with a 2-stage 3cfm vac pump and also a custom made 700w silicone heating pad for a heat source. I could have gotten away with only 200-300w on the heating pad but oh well. I can cook dinner on it.
I use mine with a 2-stage 3cfm vac pump and also a custom made 700w silicone heating pad for a heat source. I could have gotten away with only 200-300w on the heating pad but oh well. I can cook dinner on it.
ataxian
PALE BLUE DOT
I did let it soak for a good 30 seconds plus I did not freeze it and it was a bit green.I envy you having a vac chamber. I really want one!
Bro, the taste factor is all about how long the wash is and how well you have frozen/cured/dried your buds - ie how much plant stuff gets into you concentrate. Further to this, obviously leftover solvent not properly purged is an issue.
I have found that ISO is really, really unforgiving with time. You must stop washing after 20 seconds, 25 maximum!
Anymore and you start getting plant stuff into your concentrates that give you grief.
BHO runs appear to avoid this issue as the butane is simply run through the herb in a tube, rather than shaken together by hand and subject to being left to wash too long. Also I am familiar with the boiling point, lol Butane could evaporate on a hot Australian day!
However, any solvent can be used to make incredible tasting concentrates. It is just much harder to do with alcohol (especially ISO) than butane. I appreciate this. However, there are many, many of us whose living conditions preclude us from using butane for safety reasons. I understand that everyone loves their waxes/shatters and likely swears by them. All I am saying is that with some experimentation, some know how and very, very careful observation of the above instructions, even the humble ISO can be used to make great concentrates, not the nasty tasting shit we all know and hate!
It is all about the technique brother. I kid you not, the only taste I get from these QWISO batches is exactly like the smell of the herb I used in the first place. No nasty tastes during or after hitting this shatter
Of course, YMMV. There are so many variables that influence how a concentrate comes out, as all of you would know. However, I can reliably and in all honesty say that I can make stuff that tastes perfect to me. I have tasted the nasty ISO tastes that you guys are talking about, have made that sorta black nasty oil since I joined up on FC lol. I know what you guys are talking about, I am simply trying to say that the last 3 batches of QWISO I have made are of a seriously high quality, with no bad taste
@ataxian Hope you are well by the way my friend!
ISO gave me bad results.
My method?
herbivore21
Well-Known Member
I use the same vac chamber that @ataxian uses I think, big orange label, bestvaluevacs or something like that. They're a really good deal.
I use mine with a 2-stage 3cfm vac pump and also a custom made 700w silicone heating pad for a heat source. I could have gotten away with only 200-300w on the heating pad but oh well. I can cook dinner on it.
I was linked to one of these in another thread actually, have been thinking about pulling the trigger, still making sure I do everything I can with technique first before I graduate to vac purging
Actually, with regard to the heat pad; I am planning on making something similar using a certain oil slick mat I'm getting soon
Definitely sounds like it mate. ISO is a very aggressive solvent, will strip the herb bare in not too long at all! Remember, you are only trying to pull the pollen off a flower really. None of the plant nasties.
Do a 20 second wash, I know it sounds crazy short, but it works wonders! Also freezing is mandatory for QWISO shatter that tastes great. Freeze it overnight! I believe there is a good argument for drying the buds, I will have results on the next attempt tomorrow, which were oven dried at the start as per step one, but at a lower temp (75c).
Also, don't be worried if when you filter the iso out of the bud after the wash, the iso still looks almost clear or completely clear to the naked eye. This happened to me with the first batch (pictures in the OP of this thread)
Small changes in many batches are the best way to work out which variations are favourable and which aren't this is how we do science
Managing to cause something successfully is not helpful in the future unless we can isolate which steps we took that had beneficial effects!I will be posting info here, in the name of science lol
herbivore21
Well-Known Member
You can do this with 10g my friend. I have done this and got a 1.6g yield of stretchy sappy shatter
im trying to figure out how to do it cost effective...
im in a med state and i can get good good bho shatter from 35-50 a gram (less with discount coupons "Shatterday" lol) and bud is like 80/half for good quality stuff at my place...
Do you get better end product with nuggets vs say buying bottom of the jar shake? This would be discounted and maybe more cost effective.
I am also still confused about how there is purging in this method? I tought purging was vacuuming (using a maching to suck out the solvents)? and I understand this to just be simple evaporation? Am I missing something?
Thanks! Thinkins about trying this!
im in a med state and i can get good good bho shatter from 35-50 a gram (less with discount coupons "Shatterday" lol) and bud is like 80/half for good quality stuff at my place...
Do you get better end product with nuggets vs say buying bottom of the jar shake? This would be discounted and maybe more cost effective.
I am also still confused about how there is purging in this method? I tought purging was vacuuming (using a maching to suck out the solvents)? and I understand this to just be simple evaporation? Am I missing something?
Thanks! Thinkins about trying this!
Last edited:
ataxian
PALE BLUE DOT
Just but it!
It's $90/gram for Shatter
Everclear I found it expensive and no better than ISO
ISO = Von's has 99%
BHO = you need to send money for a vacuum setup
ataxian
PALE BLUE DOT
delete
Last edited:
ataxian
PALE BLUE DOT
everyone has their option
@herbivore21
@Jman5280
The purging involves either temperature or vacuum or both. The vacuum allows for extraction with lower temperatures. Ideally keeping the purge temperature below 120F ( maybe even at 100 F) preserves the most terpenes. This will maintain the flavor of the oil. Higher heats begin to evaporate the flavorful terps.
This is my next purchase. $230 I think it is well worth it. You could build your own but by the time you source everything and build it, you will have spent the same $$$.
http://www.bestvaluevacs.com/3qPyrexkit.html
@Jman5280
The purging involves either temperature or vacuum or both. The vacuum allows for extraction with lower temperatures. Ideally keeping the purge temperature below 120F ( maybe even at 100 F) preserves the most terpenes. This will maintain the flavor of the oil. Higher heats begin to evaporate the flavorful terps.
This is my next purchase. $230 I think it is well worth it. You could build your own but by the time you source everything and build it, you will have spent the same $$$.
http://www.bestvaluevacs.com/3qPyrexkit.html
herbivore21
Well-Known Member
Whoa, so much to respond to and I'm at work now! I will be back with responses and results of second qwiso shatter attempt
herbivore21
Well-Known Member
Round 2, first run. .68g from 10g of bud/trim. Beautiful!
ataxian
PALE BLUE DOT
(1.25 - 2.0) per 10g is my yield!
The quality of your flowers will decide your yield once your process is worked out!
Mostly colas.
No fan leaves.
However Sugar Leaves are OK.
Last edited:
herbivore21
Well-Known Member
I do get 4 runs of good material, ends up netting around 2g from 10g in the end
When my new induction oil slick pad setup is complete in a few days, purging is about to get real up in here! At the moment, it is taking way too much time and attention to make sure there are absolutely no bubbles without heating it too much to get the consistency I want
Also, I did accidentally turn the heat up for slightly too long whilst evaping. Lost a very little bit of product there... Still, very happy with my overall yields, and the fact that there is no black goop at all!
This run from the photo is still doing the last little bit of purging.
BTW @ataxian, I use mostly sugar leaves and not the best colas, but good top mids
When my new induction oil slick pad setup is complete in a few days, purging is about to get real up in here! At the moment, it is taking way too much time and attention to make sure there are absolutely no bubbles without heating it too much to get the consistency I want
Also, I did accidentally turn the heat up for slightly too long whilst evaping. Lost a very little bit of product there... Still, very happy with my overall yields, and the fact that there is no black goop at all!
This run from the photo is still doing the last little bit of purging.
BTW @ataxian, I use mostly sugar leaves and not the best colas, but good top mids
Last edited:
vakedcow
Gentle cow vaper and halloween kiddo
had that last weekend, only short distraction and I already feel I lost some terpens to heat, I can really see the benfit of regulated heat source here, often recomended in other reads. 
smokum
I am who I am and your approval isn't needed!
@@ataxian (edit: PS... how the hell do you guys do that @ thingy ? lol)
How are you finding the longevity of your chamber seal ? I've noticed two styles out on the market, one 'like yours', and the other a plexi type lid with a silicone bead type rim in the plexi.
I'm looking at getting a pyrex chamber (so I can purge right in the chamber spread thin then scrape up) and can't decide on the lid style to either buy a kit or source separately. I'm also shopping to replace my cheapy 2.5 cfm single to a 5-6 cfm dual pump.
TIA
How are you finding the longevity of your chamber seal ? I've noticed two styles out on the market, one 'like yours', and the other a plexi type lid with a silicone bead type rim in the plexi.
I'm looking at getting a pyrex chamber (so I can purge right in the chamber spread thin then scrape up) and can't decide on the lid style to either buy a kit or source separately. I'm also shopping to replace my cheapy 2.5 cfm single to a 5-6 cfm dual pump.
TIA
I just bought the one I posted pictures of earlier. Pyrex chamber
. Reversible/Replaceable seal. Price $235 (free shipping) . All in one, ready to go out of the box in just the time it takes to ship to me.Edit : I see you have a pump. They also sell that same chamber with lid for around $100.+/-
ataxian
PALE BLUE DOT
Sugar leaf will work fine if their frosty.Still, very happy with my overall yields, and the fact that there is no black goop at all!
This run from the photo is still doing the last little bit of purging.
BTW @ataxian, I use mostly sugar leaves and not the best colas, but good top mids
My most resent run I'm using the lesser colas. All the top colas I'm saving for my Flower Vaporizing.
I throw away trim and sugar leaf to make my work easier.
I'm super lazy.
If I at least start with colas B+ (not AAA) I get a SHATTER that taste amazing and does not produce headaches.
Heat we need just not too much.
Like you say your yield will suffer.
There is a trade off with heat purge in the mix.
Too cold and your concentrate can be dark and sticky.
Too warm clear and tasteless.
Clear amber and full of flavor is my target.
Vacuum purge for me helps obtain the quality I'm looking for.
The SLICK pads I use as well.
I have two small ones and want the big one at some point.
I find also I wait about 2 weeks before I consume the shatter I just made.
Curing helps I find. (I don't know if I'm right however this is my practice.)
If you can just buy it already made is amazing. I get bad headaches from other concentrates. CO2 Oil, PURE GOLD are suppose to be pure? Why do they give me headaches?
For me it's more headache prevention.
If your not effected then you can buy it already made.
FLOWERS (TOP COLA BUDS) are the purest form of medicine.
Concentrates are effective when the patient can benefit from them.
I like crumbled however shatter is easier to make.
I never got ISO to work right for my taste buds.
ABV I got black goo so I gave up on it.
For those of you who can make it work good for you!
Last edited:
herbivore21
Well-Known Member
Man you are doing exactly what I am doing now lol, just using a different solvent! Those top cola's are excellent for putting in the Solo or Nano at 6.5
Also curing is crucial, really helps keep the water solubles out of your concentrates (if you DIY).
Get as much of the moisture out of those buds as possible if you are making concentrates with them. Leave 15% net moisture in them or so if you are gonna vape/smoke them (I apologise if this last sentence is somewhat off, I can't remember the source of this info).
I use very little heat, once my induction pad is set up, I will use 60c to heat a good induction pan and lightly evap the last of the alcohol away. However, I leave most of the drying to just air evaporation under an extraction fan
Too much heat makes a mess of yield/consistency/taste!