DIY Induction Heater Builds and References

[Pepeluis33]

So in regards to this post: www.reddit.com/r/Dynavap/comments/9nrjd1/dih005_the_russian_doll_diy_dynavap_induction
And here: www.imgur.com/a/RJ9Fw8i
Using a voltmeter like this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B09Y32D84Y/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A2RMJESMH709Q2&psc=1
Say I wanna add a voltmeter to this induction heater so I can get the voltage and know how much charge is left. Where in this diagram or on the cap could I add a voltmeter? Where do the connections go to because I'm lost. I also wanna know how the blue LED is connected because I see a GND wire, almost like it was spliced, so wondering how that works. Also, does the battery pack have a 2 pin connector or 4 pin connector and if so, where do the wires connect from and to? Thanks.

I recommend you to have a look to vapoven diagrams. About the voltimeter, there are 2 ways to connect it: one is as appears in the vapoven diagram, is less accurate but activates automatically (this is how I have mine connected), another, more accurate way is to connect it directly to the battery with a button that you must press to check the voltage.

 

[Backsage]

I recommend you to have a look to vapoven diagrams. About the voltimeter, there are 2 ways to connect it: one is as appears in the vapoven diagram, is less accurate but activates automatically (this is how I have mine connected), another, more accurate way is to connect it directly to the battery with a button that you must press to check the voltage.

i.imgur.com/Aju4RoT.jpeg
Ok, I kinda get the idea of how to wire the LEDs and connecting them from the momentary push switch buttons to the MOSFET. But I've been looking at this diagram and I'm still confused about some things. I see there's a GND (or negative wire?) that's coming from the DC input jack and connecting it to the green LED, but the green LED is also connected to the push button. Is the purpose of the wire so that the green LED will never turn on unless the IH unit is turned on? Then there's like a T-shape (where it has the ground power symbol) where there's a GND wire that connects from that main wire. I'm assuming it's two wires that were spliced together and the GND wire is spliced to that as well. And then the GND wire connects to the blue LED, meaning the blue LED will only turn on if the IH unit is switched to battery power or if the unit is being charged by the 12v power supply? Am I getting this right? And then I'm assuming those 2 wires from the 3rd pin just connects to the 3s 18650 battery unit. But then how is the IH unit powered by the batteries?

And then another question. I seen this diagram: https://vapoven.com/battery-powered-induction-heater-wiring-diagram/
Coming out of the 3s 18650 battery pack, is there supposed to be 2 wires (2 pin connector) or 4 wires (4 pin connector)? 'Cause I seen on the diagram it looks like it's supposed to be 4 wires (2 negative and 2 positive). But the diagram by kent1146 suggests it should only be two wires.

 

[Pepeluis33]

And then another question. I seen this diagram: https://vapoven.com/battery-powered-induction-heater-wiring-diagram/
Coming out of the 3s 18650 battery pack, is there supposed to be 2 wires (2 pin connector) or 4 wires (4 pin connector)? 'Cause I seen on the diagram it looks like it's supposed to be 4 wires (2 negative and 2 positive). But the diagram by kent1146 suggests it should only be two wires.

The battery pack has only 2 pins, but you can connect several wires to each pin.
In my case since I charge de batteries in an external charger, I've omitted the "12.6V POWER IN" connection depicted in the VapOven diagram.

 

[Backsage]

The battery pack has only 2 pins, but you can connect several wires to each pin.
In my case since I charge de batteries in an external charger, I've omitted the "12.6V POWER IN" connection depicted in the VapOven diagram.

And then one last question. How do I wire the DC power jack to that 3 pin power slide switch? I don't know which wire is positive and which wire is negative and I don't know which pins they're supposed to go to.

 

[Pepeluis33]

And then one last question. How do I wire the DC power jack to that 3 pin power slide switch? I don't know which wire is positive and which wire is negative and I don't know which pins they're supposed to go to.

Either find/ask for the diagram of the wires or you can just test the wires with a small battery to check what is the LED ones. Once you've identified them you must connect the LED wires to the mosfet VOUT-/+ pins like the voltimeter in the vapoven diagram, in this way the LED will only light when IH is on.
The power wires of the switch must be connected between the + pin of the battery pack and the Mosfet VIN+ pin, as depicted in the diagram.

Here are some pics of my beloved IH which is working fantastically well for 2 years. Honestly I've never touched the inner main switch: is always on. It also has some small switches to disable all color cycling LEDs and voltimeter (AKA "stealth" mode). Has a sliding lid at bottom to access the batteries, and the top lid holds just by pressure. Is activated by pressing dynavap down: there's a button under the glass, isolated to the dynavap with a cork and toothpicks.

 

[Backsage]

Spoiler

Can you tell me if I did this right? Specifically, I need to know if I did the wires coming from the battery pack correct.

 

[TommyDee]

That top diagram is right and I can follow it. The bottom one gives me a headache.

I should add something useful though - make sure that your battery charger is current limited. The BMS may try to draw whatever you give it. This is not a problem when the cells are near full charge but when the batteries are very low, such as in a low voltage cutoff state, the BMS could try to pull whatever the BMS is willing to provide to the cells. CVCC supplies are recommended. I limit the current to 1.5 amps which is still considered a fairly hot charge. for Liion. But a 12V 6A supply could go way over this. This could fry the charging components on the BMS. You might consider using the slide switch to switch between battery mode and power-brick mode. What exactly is the slide switch for?

And if you are not using a BMS, put a fuse in the positive line. I'm highlighting the fact that VapOven's schematic has the BMS and batteries connected.

 

[badbee]

That wiring for the switch doesn't look right. Typically you only use two terminals of a three pin switch, one is for Normally Open (NO), one for Normally Closed (NC) and one is Common (C). Check if your switch is this type. You want NO and C. Put it on the positive leg not the negative ( that's convention, not functionally required). Wire goes from battery pack positive to NO, another wire goes from C and branches out to things that need power (mosfet board, momentary switch, power LED).

Does that make sense?

 

[Backsage]

Yeah, I should have indicated in the diagram that the 3s 18650 battery pack does have a BMS. I'm using a 3 pin ON-OFF-ON SPDT slide switch tho, so I should be able to use all three pins. I am still unsure which wire, or multiple wires, from the battery pack should go to the slide switch, which wire(s) from the battery pack should go to the DC input jack, which, if any wires, from the DC input jack should go to the slide switch and to the MOSFET module, how all these wires go to the MOSFET module, and now I don't know how I would wire the blue LED to make it so it only turns on when the slide switch goes to pin 3.

Edit:

Spoiler

I tried following this one but it was a little confusing.

So I tried to follow the VapOven diagram and this one was easier to follow.

Spoiler

Ok, so I had an idea that for the blue LED, I should put the negative wire on the 2nd pin of the slide switch and put the positive wire on TRIG/PWN. This way, the blue LED should only light up when it's switched to position 3 and when the induction heater is on battery powered mode. If it goes to position 2, nothing will happen (it's in the off position). And then for pin 1, I decided to take the positive wire from the DC input jack and put it on pin 1. This way, we now three ways it works: position 1 (powered by DC input), position 2 (off), and position 3 (powered by battery pack and blue LED turns on). And obviously, I need to use 2 pin connectors for connecting the wires from DC input jack and battery pack. Although, I just realized that the blue LED might light up regardless if it's in DC input or battery powered. I hope I did it right.

 

[TommyDee]

You will find that the +in and the +out are the same circuit and independent of the MOSFET switch. Still trying to figure out what you want with the slide switch. Input power selector? What is the rating of the power supply?

 

[Backsage]

You will find that the +in and the +out are the same circuit and independent of the MOSFET switch. Still trying to figure out what you want with the slide switch. Input power selector? What is the rating of the power supply?

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003TUMDWG/ref=ox_sc_act_title_18?smid=A13RPEGYBVY6JL&psc=1

Kastar AC Adapter, Power Supply 12V 6A 72W. Also, check my post again because I edited it to include a new diagram I made. I'm trying to make it so that with this 3 pin On-Off-On SPDT slide switch, I can switch between DC input, battery powered, or off.

​

 

[TommyDee]

Okay, yes, you want to isolate the battery pack from the power brick through the slide switch.
In the case of using the MOSFET switch, consider positive to be a common bus. You will be switching the negative line. Connect negative power source to either NO or NC of the switch.
I'm assuming the center off position is open circuit to all 3 poles. Connect the slide switch Common to the MOSFET switch -IN.
Put a 6 amp fuse on the DC power brick -in. The BMS is a fuse as well but you can back it with an 8 amp fuse in the same way, -in before the switch.

This method considers the slide switch to take on the mode of 'selector switch' or diagrammatically 'input power selector switch'.

I will add that a lot of this is unnecessary as a small 12.6V charge CVCC source (wallwart), at say 1 amp max or so, will allow you to charge and use the device at the same time. Your current arrangement doesn't provide for charging. Why not rely on the batteries that can be kept charged with a smaller power source?

 

[Backsage]

I'm just trying to do it the way kent1146 designed it, but I had a hard time understanding his diagrams, so I looked at the VapOven diagram to understand it better. Yes, I'm trying to make it so that with the slide switch, you can toggle between DC input, battery powered, or off. And I also need it so that when it's switched to battery powered mode, the blue LED lights up, although I think the way I had it in my diagram, it would have lit up whether it was in DC input or battery powered mode. I thought the power supply was supposed to charge the batteries.

 

[TommyDee]

You need a separate circuit for the blue light for the battery mode only from the selector switch. Nice idea though. I think you need to do the same with the negative line as the positive to do this. A double pole switch. You would run the blue light between +Common and -battery pack.

 

[flyin911]

If your momentary switch can handle the current, you won't need a mosfet. Also won't need a on/off switch if you're not planning on pressing the momentary button by accident while having metal between the coil. I only put one in there because I wanted an easy way to cut off the power to my voltage converter without having to unplug the powersupply.

Though, over here .. a mosfet + lower rated momentary button would be cheaper.

12V 8A is nice. I'd recommend everybody to go with at least 7A if they're not planning on lowering the number of coil windings.

I was under the impression that the coil wire had to be a certain length which depends on if using 2 or 3 batteries? And what amps are recommended for lower coil windings? Wondering because on someone’s comments or advice I have an IH run by 2 batteries with a shortened coil wire and have wondered what difference it actually makes?

 

[flyin911]

Either find/ask for the diagram of the wires or you can just test the wires with a small battery to check what is the LED ones. Once you've identified them you must connect the LED wires to the mosfet VOUT-/+ pins like the voltimeter in the vapoven diagram, in this way the LED will only light when IH is on.
The power wires of the switch must be connected between the + pin of the battery pack and the Mosfet VIN+ pin, as depicted in the diagram.

Here are some pics of my beloved IH which is working fantastically well for 2 years. Honestly I've never touched the inner main switch: is always on. It also has some small switches to disable all color cycling LEDs and voltimeter (AKA "stealth" mode). Has a sliding lid at bottom to access the batteries, and the top lid holds just by pressure. Is activated by pressing dynavap down: there's a button under the glass, isolated to the dynavap with a cork and toothpicks.

I like the enclosure, did you buy it from somewhere or did you make it yourself?

 

[TommyDee]

@flyin911 - I said that. There is a relationship with input voltage and the power the vapcap demands from the IH. Stock wire is 33" for 3S (say 10V) or 22" for 2S (say 7V). 10 turns for the 10V, 7 turns for the 7 volt. About a volt per turn. Want it hotter on 2S? Try 6 turns.

 

[Gonchin]

I wired my meter to the input of the IH module. You have a lower voltage there than you would right at the battery terminals, but this way I only get a meter reading when there is voltage being supplied to the IH module.

 

[KarlKlammer]

Hey guys,

just recently I got into the butane vape game again (Anvil) and even tho I have a rather moderate use (only on weekends) I kinda dislike handling with butane/fire that much. I was talking with a friend about this topic, and he mentioned that he once bought a induction heater "board" to do some metal work. But never finished the project.

I tried to read through this thread to answer this myself, but even tho I have some electrical knowledge, I am not sure if I can make any use out of this board. The thing is labeled as a "20A 1000W Heater Board". I also have the eBay Link at hand (hope it's okay to post it): https://www.ebay.de/itm/354495107299

20A or 1000W are of course pretty oversized for a vape. Also it got delivered with a massive coil. But the description mentions that 12 to 48 Volts Input are acceptable. I even have a 24 Volts / 150W DC at hand. Would it be worth a try to order a coil and try it with this board? Or are the components probably to oversized?

 

[GI]

For my little experience i use anvil on my halfpint (not now because i sell Anvil) with stock coil.

 

[Clp2k]

Hello, got a second hand induction heater, but the power supply is missing.. if I see it correctly, it is a lipo 3s battery which is connected to a small circuit board. There is a charging socket on the side, but I don't know what voltage and current I need and whether it has to be a special type. I would be very grateful for tips.

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[TommyDee]

Measure the space available and seek out a lipo pack that fits the dimensions. Be sure the pack has a very high C-rating. Most suppliers designate the size of each pack.

 

[Clp2k]

Thanks for the reply, I may have expressed myself a bit misleadingly. A battery is still installed... I meant the power supply, since there is a charging connection as can be seen in the one picture.

edit: what is the function of the circuit board?

 

[badbee]

Hey guys,

just recently I got into the butane vape game again (Anvil) and even tho I have a rather moderate use (only on weekends) I kinda dislike handling with butane/fire that much. I was talking with a friend about this topic, and he mentioned that he once bought a induction heater "board" to do some metal work. But never finished the project.

I tried to read through this thread to answer this myself, but even tho I have some electrical knowledge, I am not sure if I can make any use out of this board. The thing is labeled as a "20A 1000W Heater Board". I also have the eBay Link at hand (hope it's okay to post it): https://www.ebay.de/itm/354495107299

20A or 1000W are of course pretty oversized for a vape. Also it got delivered with a massive coil. But the description mentions that 12 to 48 Volts Input are acceptable. I even have a 24 Volts / 150W DC at hand. Would it be worth a try to order a coil and try it with this board? Or are the components probably to oversized?

This has the power to melt your VC into a pile of slag. We normally use 120 W boards, not 1000 W. I would not try this on battery, this board will be crazily inefficient and drain the cells really fast. If using mains power it can probably be made to work, but my guess is that it will be a huge pain to tune and give poor results.

Thanks for the reply, I may have expressed myself a bit misleadingly. A battery is still installed... I meant the power supply, since there is a charging connection as can be seen in the one picture.

edit: what is the function of the circuit board?

3S chargers typically require a 12.6 V supply, a 12 V supply will only get your batteries to about 70% charge, which is annoying. The most common barrel jack size is 5.5 by 2.1 mm, but there are other sizes.

 

[badbee]

please delete