DIY Induction Heater Builds and References

badbee

Well-Known Member
If anyone is wondering r/InductionHeaters got banned from Reddit today along with a bunch of other vaping related subs (r/EntExchange, r/Arizer, r/DynaVap to name a few). The ban is being appealed and if necessary the replacement sub will be opened up and "advertised" to people in a few days. There will need to be tighter restrictions regarding discussion of buying and selling of heaters.

I consider this topic on FC to be the advanced class, the Reddit sub was the Introduction to IH Building 101.
 

OGablogian

Active Member
I consider this topic on FC to be the advanced class, the Reddit sub was the Introduction to IH Building 101.

Same here. Found that one guide on reddit, read it, moved here. Took me two days to see where the useful info and dialogue can really be found.

Edit:


One hit bowls happen at 25W. Change my mind (you won't). (My crappy camera wont do darks properly though, or contrast or whatever, so youll just have to believe me when I say it isn't combusted.)
 
Last edited:

badbee

Well-Known Member
The intended replacement sub for r/InductionHeaters was also banned, it was private and only had two members. It looks like Reddit is lost to us for good. Hopefully some of those newbies will find their way here and we can help them along.
 

ploooopp

New Member
This may be a dumb question. I've made a 18650 battery pack and I want to make a 18350 one, my concern is, will these be able to be charged via 5v female micro usb? I've got the standard 3s 12v 10A BMS And to not risk overcharging and seeing the battery levels I've got one of thems 5 bar battery indicators that are real cheap from ebay, where in the circuit should I put that? Just splice into the out/in power on the BMS and connect it there?
 
Last edited:
ploooopp,

ploooopp

New Member
3S 18350 battery pack with BMS, Micro-USB charge port, a 12.6V charge port, and a switched battery meter on the farside [in the mail]. 10A mini-power pack for IH's that just slips into a sleeve.
Hey man, I'm wondering if you found success in using the USB charge port? Or if it worked at all?
 
ploooopp,

badbee

Well-Known Member
This may be a dumb question. I've made a 18650 battery pack and I want to make a 18350 one, my concern is, will these be able to be charged via 5v female micro usb? I've got the standard 3s 12v 10A BMS And to not risk overcharging and seeing the battery levels I've got one of thems 5 bar battery indicators that are real cheap from ebay, where in the circuit should I put that? Just splice into the out/in power on the BMS and connect it there?
You want something like this: https://www.ebay.com/itm/283997366718 to convert from USB 5V to 12.6 for the BMS. Be sure to pick one that supports the charge current drawn by your BMS.
 

TommyDee

Vaporitor
12.6V... It needs limited current. The BMS doesn't current limit the charge voltage. I push mine hard with ~1.5 amp at 12.6V.
 
TommyDee,
  • Like
Reactions: ploooopp

ploooopp

New Member
12.6V... It needs limited current. The BMS doesn't current limit the charge voltage. I push mine hard with ~1.5 amp at 12.6V.
So 2 questions related more to the HP/HS mods: You go from 3 18350s to a BMS to a barrel plug to the ZVS board?
2nd: When you've taken off the yellow coil things, do you just leave one of them for another project some day or is it used in any way?
 
ploooopp,

TommyDee

Vaporitor
Yes, the output of the BMS is the same as the charge port.
As to the spare choke removed from HalfPints, it is simply a spare now, same with the extra capacitor.
 
TommyDee,
  • Like
Reactions: ploooopp

TommyDee

Vaporitor
12V will under-charge the cells by quite a bit. 2 amps is a fairly hot charge for li-ions or LiPos. 1.5 amps will get the cells warm. I charge using a lab supply with CVCC. I have to limit that source current or a pack will draw too much power for the BMS. The BMS charge circuit doesn't current limit so the batteries draw whatever they can.
 
TommyDee,

Misterhyde

Well-Known Member
This thread is quite large. What are considered the best DIY builds here? Maybe a plug in option and a battery one? Looking for a build that i can get most of the materials on Amazon. Also wondering if there is a DIY instructable for a Koi Boi Spark type of device, maybe for my Apollo 2.
 
Misterhyde,

Misterhyde

Well-Known Member
Sorry to make another post, its too late for me to edit the previous one. I think I have done enough research now that I pretty much know the parts that I need. I'm wondering how difficult it would be to make different lights come one at different temperatures, like a koil boi. I'm assuming I would need to add arduino to the circuit? Maybe that is too complicated of a build for me, I don't know. I'm definitely going to build one of these trying to get it straight in my head first.
 
Misterhyde,

OGablogian

Active Member
This thread is quite large. What are considered the best DIY builds here? Maybe a plug in option and a battery one? Looking for a build that i can get most of the materials on Amazon. Also wondering if there is a DIY instructable for a Koi Boi Spark type of device, maybe for my Apollo 2.

I'd say that totally depends on your preferences and demands of an DIY IH. If it's size you care about, well, see post 1 and page 13 of this topic and go from there :D. Adjustability of energy output, you'd need to look at examples of people who mess with that through voltage controll / pwm stuff / etc. How easy something is to make would also play a factor.

But yeah, it might be nice to whip up a few guides (a la the beasthoss google docs one) for commonly used setups. Link them all in one sticky topic, rate them on difficulty, and provide a few pro's and con's bulletpoints.

Especially now r/ih is down.

Edit: Perhaps a 'DIY IH guides' section at the resources tab, where we then use the same format for posting, so ppl can easily see which ones of the guides fits their wants/needs? Use the tag line to rate beginner/intermediate/advanced and add some keywords like 'small size' 'battery/wall-powered' or 'pwm control'.

Totally willing to write a guide for my build in post #694 (including TommyDee's upgrade suggestion). Keywords: Beginner, wall-powered, variable voltage control.
 
Last edited:

Misterhyde

Well-Known Member
Do I need to have an on/off switch, or would just a momentary switch suffice? I'm looking at getting a 10A momentary to avoid MOSFET but they are almost $15 a piece. Just wondering if something bad would happen if I avoided the traditional on/off switch. I am making a mains powered unit with a 12V 8A power supply. It will be very basic, no variable voltage.
 
Misterhyde,

OGablogian

Active Member
Do I need to have an on/off switch, or would just a momentary switch suffice? I'm looking at getting a 10A momentary to avoid MOSFET but they are almost $15 a piece. Just wondering if something bad would happen if I avoided the traditional on/off switch. I am making a mains powered unit with a 12V 8A power supply. It will be very basic, no variable voltage.
If your momentary switch can handle the current, you won't need a mosfet. Also won't need a on/off switch if you're not planning on pressing the momentary button by accident while having metal between the coil. I only put one in there because I wanted an easy way to cut off the power to my voltage converter without having to unplug the powersupply.

Though, over here .. a mosfet + lower rated momentary button would be cheaper.

12V 8A is nice. I'd recommend everybody to go with at least 7A if they're not planning on lowering the number of coil windings.
 

Misterhyde

Well-Known Member
If your momentary switch can handle the current, you won't need a mosfet. Also won't need a on/off switch if you're not planning on pressing the momentary button by accident while having metal between the coil. I only put one in there because I wanted an easy way to cut off the power to my voltage converter without having to unplug the powersupply.

Though, over here .. a mosfet + lower rated momentary button would be cheaper.

12V 8A is nice. I'd recommend everybody to go with at least 7A if they're not planning on lowering the number of coil windings.
Thank you much for your response. It certainly looks like a mosfet plus a lower rated switch might be cheaper. I hadn't even looked at the price for the mosfet as I preferred to go without for simplicity reasons, however, I might go that route now. I didn't expect that 10A switch to be so expensive, literally the highest priced item of the build.
 
Misterhyde,

badbee

Well-Known Member
Do I need to have an on/off switch,
A master switch is a good thing to have for safety but that applies most strongly to battery builds. For a mains powered unit you can always just unplug it. I won't leave an IH plugged in when I'm not around, these circuits are cheap and unreliable.

Yeah, those switches start to get expensive, keep in mind 10 A is what a table saw pulls (it's at mains voltage but to the switch 10 A is 10 A regardless of voltage). The combo of low voltage and relatively high current is weird to work with.
 
badbee,
Top Bottom