DIY Induction Heater Builds and References

GI

Well-Known Member
Sorry, what happens if i made an half pint with coil for 2s operation, 7 turn, and power with wall adapter 12v ? i have to regulate it lower ?
 
GI,

TommyDee

Vaporitor
At 12 volts, you will get a very hot heater. It might hold depending on the power drawn at 2S. The IH is voltage dependent. The power curve is linear if it wasn't for losses. Some rare caps could blow it.
 

kokolokokolokon

Well-Known Member
Hello everyone!
I want to share with you some videos i found of dead bug IH circuits wich maybe could be use to build a more efficent and smaller ih.
Two of them are tutorials.
One is a dead bug ih circuit:


The other is the same kind of build (without a premade circuit) but on a board:


The third is just an example of dead bug ih for dynavap with 2x18650:



I think this can be a good way to create a circuit with lower watts (just the amount you need) or even with no need of 12v 5/10a power supply (i dont really know since i have no knowledge about electronics but i see what you do here and maybe you are interested :D)
 
Just wanted to pop in and share the progress with my half pint build. I decided to get a desktop IH going before finishing the SICC, but not just any desktop... it's a half pint!

PXL_20211128_210813682~2.jpg

This thing hits like a dream. I had to figure out the best way to use it though. I set the tip depth so when it clicks, it's ready. At that depth, I get 20 seconds to click from cold, 8-10 warm. The first heat from cold, just a little vapor an the click, but respect them from there on out.

Unwrapped some turns from the stock coil and wrapped them back down the outside. Not sure why, but I'm getting great numbers. At 12V I get 1.2A freewheeling and 2.8A when heating a 20M SS tip w/ captive cap.

Been working on a case this week. Found an antique wooden artists charcoal box on eBay for cheap... sorted through bits and pieces on my workbench until I found all the other parts I needed. Ultimately, there will be a dead bug 555 circuit connected to the knob, for power control. But for now, it's in the case and running! I'll post another picture or two when I finish up.

I'm naming this one Satan's bunghole :evil:

PXL_20211204_020228752~2.jpg

@TommyDee

Thanks again for all your research and dedication to furthering the DIY IH. I couldn't be happier with this project and owe you for that.
 

TommyDee

Vaporitor
Nah; they are using an alternate way to resonate with 2 less chokes. This requires a wire at the center of the coil as the positive input. The center-tapped coil now acts as 2 inductors when the VC is present.

They are also using a bare bones minimal capacitor. All energies induced is cumulative so it will eventually click. The Wand puts out 45 watts on a stretch. Always a good bake.
 
@TommyDee

Have you drove the gate of the Mini-ZVS with a 555 before? I see the Fluxer pwm uses a relay, but I was going to just try driving directly from the 555 first. Figured I should ask before I fry my MOSFETs or something. I have killed one module so far by 'experimenting' :lol:
 
Schlumbergera,

TommyDee

Vaporitor
I think the 555 can handle the low current as a gate drive. Just keep the rate very slow. And don't string a bunch of LEDs on the output.

Remember there are two 555 circuits; one @ 0-100 range and one @ 50-100.
 
TommyDee,
Thanks man, I appreciate it. I have the circuit laid out in a simulator so I could get the duty cycle / frequency / component values squared away. Right now I have it set to about 1.3Hz with a minimum duty cycle of 20% and a maximum of 90%. Good call on the LED's, I'll make sure to add a transistor to drive my 'fire' LED's cause I have quite a few in there.
 
Schlumbergera,
  • Like
Reactions: TommyDee

wentfrom

New Member
Hi everyone,

I'm currently planning an IH build powered from USB-PD. I ordered most of the parts I will need, but I wondered if you could provide me with insights if anyone did something similar.
I might try the half-pint circuit, but I'm not sure if the mini-zvs I bought is compatible.

I was also wondering if it's possible to separate the coil from the zvs board.

I have just realized that I don't have a glass tube. :(
hey did you ever build this? was trying to see if there was any updated but couldnt find any. am also interested in a usb ih
 
wentfrom,

kokolokokolokon

Well-Known Member
I would think that you could wire (2) 18650's to a half pint, add some heat shrink, and have a similar sized portable IH.
it is similar to the first video i posted, which is a tutorial.
i have to say i asked to know how it works with 2 18650 and it last 7 clicks xd
 
kokolokokolokon,

TommyDee

Vaporitor
Try a 7-turn coil (12 gauge) on a 2S with the standard module, cap-reduced module, or a HalfPint module.

Any IH should do much more than 7 clicks with 2S 18650. Remember that the DynaCup was a 2S device and people liked that. I never counted clicks with 3S but 2S will be 2/3rd the clicks. It is simple math. It should push <200mwh per click or <1WH per bowl to the cap for diagnostic purposes.
 

kokolokokolokon

Well-Known Member
Try a 7-turn coil (12 gauge) on a 2S with the standard module, cap-reduced module, or a HalfPint module.

Any IH should do much more than 7 clicks with 2S 18650. Remember that the DynaCup was a 2S device and people liked that. I never counted clicks with 3S but 2S will be 2/3rd the clicks. It is simple math. It should push <200mwh per click or <1WH per bowl to the cap for diagnostic purposes.
Thanks Tommy! :D i didnt try this kind of circuit yet, no time right now, i just asked on the video comments because of 2s (and i like the battery-module conection xd).
But, about 2s, i remember you need 12v and you get around 7s with a 2s. Would solve this a 7-turn coil? (Longer coil=less power you need? I thought the longer coil you have = the less power It takes, but you still need 12v on the module)
 
kokolokokolokon,

TommyDee

Vaporitor
@kokolokokolokon - the voltage, ranging from 5 to 12 volts, these modules use determines the power. It is directly related to the length of the coil wire in our case. 10 turns on a stock coil for 12V is 33" long. If you make the voltage 2/3rd of 12V, 8V, then you can also remove the same percentage from the coil wire for similar operation at lower voltages. 2/3rd of 33" is 22"; approximately 7 turns. The difference is that the current goes up. Say from 6 amps to 9 amps. The power, I*V=W, is all relative. If you can measure the power when heating the VapCap, tune for around 60-70 watts.

I spent a long time optimizing Fluxer's Flite performance. The critical data came in at low battery voltage. I wanted to make sure that at 9V (3S), Flite would still provide functional hits. For 2S, your low voltage limit is 6V. You are still within the window of 5-12V.
 

gostavs

Active Member
Accessory Maker
I like the roast from my diy 3S IH when the batteries are at 10.3-10.6V charge. Can a buck converter fix the output voltage even though the input varies(lowers with usage)?
or is there another way, and if so smallest way possible?
 
gostavs,

badbee

Well-Known Member
Can a buck converter fix the output voltage even though the input varies(lowers with usage)?
Absolutely, that's what a buck is for. You can find high amperage DC motor controllers on EBay and Amazon that will do the job for $15-$20. You can also get a similar effect from using a PWM signal to a driver mosfet. The full buck is overkill for this scenario since the ZVS already has many of the same circuit elements. You can build a PWM controller or buy them.
 
badbee,

TommyDee

Vaporitor
Have you tried straight up PWM @badbee ? Seems a holdup cap would do good on the output to keep the FET from actually turning off completely. I have a PWM motor controller here somewhere.
 
TommyDee,

badbee

Well-Known Member
Have you tried straight up PWM @badbee ? Seems a holdup cap would do good on the output to keep the FET from actually turning off completely. I have a PWM motor controller here somewhere.
No I haven't, but I've followed the builds of other people who've done it. It seems to work fine. I think so long as you keep the frequency low, say <1 KHz, the mosfets shouldn't spend too much time in their linear range. The cap would need to be pretty big to have an impact but it might reduce stress on the ZVS.
 
badbee,
  • Like
Reactions: TommyDee

GI

Well-Known Member
Hi,
If the battery, bms and indicator is connected to an halfpint it's active or only if i push on the momentary button ?
 
GI,

TommyDee

Vaporitor
HalfPint with the Gate drive mod is inactive until you put 12V to the gate resistors. Essentially, the FETs are in an open state until the circuit begins to oscillate.
 

CaleidosCope

Well-Known Member
Hello. New year approaching...new idea... and a new question! ;)

Hey TommyDee... what if I separate the coil from the board? Good Idea?!
Two-Wires, 1mm2, 50-100cm length, should do the job. Is this an option?

I was thinking to give the coil a separate housing. Temperature-Controlled.
Possible?
 
Last edited:
CaleidosCope,
Top Bottom