DIY Hakko + SSV Heater Cover
- Thread starter KeepCalm
- Start date
just been thinking about the best way to make this entirely food grade and here are some ideas that I have come up with.
1) Instead of PTFE tape use 100% silicone sealant - squeeze it in there, let it cure, and your good to go
2) Instead of PVC get a few silicone gaskets that fit tightly around the threaded base and the heater cover. Fit over top of the gaskets a metal sleeve or possibly glass (im gonna look at value village and see if i can find something appropriate). Im thinking this set up, if tight, might hold it better in place as well (the tightner thing could still be used to clamp it down really well).
1) Instead of PTFE tape use 100% silicone sealant - squeeze it in there, let it cure, and your good to go
2) Instead of PVC get a few silicone gaskets that fit tightly around the threaded base and the heater cover. Fit over top of the gaskets a metal sleeve or possibly glass (im gonna look at value village and see if i can find something appropriate). Im thinking this set up, if tight, might hold it better in place as well (the tightner thing could still be used to clamp it down really well).
Acolyte of Zinglon
Wizard-Ninja
the problem with silicone sealant is that theres no way to make sure that it is entirely centered, when wrapped in teflon tape correctly, the thickness of the teflon is equal on all sides
by all means experiment though, the design is still far from perfect, i havent even been able to properly test my modifications yet, might not for a while, so im not entirely sure they will work as well as i theorized
if anyone has any other modificatons in mind try and see if they work, i just found what i had and used it, im sure there are better methods, but its up to everyone who makes this diy vape to find them (or just be content with what others find)
by all means experiment though, the design is still far from perfect, i havent even been able to properly test my modifications yet, might not for a while, so im not entirely sure they will work as well as i theorized
if anyone has any other modificatons in mind try and see if they work, i just found what i had and used it, im sure there are better methods, but its up to everyone who makes this diy vape to find them (or just be content with what others find)
not sure if this would count as a mod to the vape itself, but im going to be using a dimmer switch instead of the mini phaser. it was far less expensive for me. my buddy is going to wire them together, and in the end, will work the same as if i was using the phaser.
on a side note, notice that wire going into the metal place? its solder onto the flange. do i leave that, or take it out?
on a side note, notice that wire going into the metal place? its solder onto the flange. do i leave that, or take it out?
Acolyte of Zinglon
Wizard-Ninja
thats just the ground, i would leave it in but its not absolutely vital afaik
just to let those future makers know, that wire attach to the flange does not have to stay attached.
heres some pics of the dimmer set up. it works. i tested it with the dimmer off, and the iron stayed off. then tested it with the dimmer half way and it got warm in about 10 seconds. i then went full power and the element went red in bout 5 seconds. i turned it down all the way, but not off, and it dimmed. then turned it up all the way and it went red again.
heres some pics of the dimmer set up. it works. i tested it with the dimmer off, and the iron stayed off. then tested it with the dimmer half way and it got warm in about 10 seconds. i then went full power and the element went red in bout 5 seconds. i turned it down all the way, but not off, and it dimmed. then turned it up all the way and it went red again.
Acolyte of Zinglon
Wizard-Ninja
you may not need the screws, you only need screws if the tip of the element touches the top inside of the heater cover when the bottom of the heter cover is right on top of the flange
the top of the the element easily touches the heater cover even before the bottom touches the flange
edit: so i got longer screws. couldn't find the right spacers inbetween those screws. the screws are got are a tad bit thick. i shall have to find skinnier ones later but it still decent. for the spaces, i just put 4 nuts on the screw, works for now. mines really ghetto lol. i need to cut the spacer for the heat element and put the teflon tape on it after. as for use: turn it up way to high, way under half as well. started to combust. turn it down near a quarter and still the same, but i think because it was still hot from where i started it from. seemed to get vapor on last hit. not testing anymore tonight. ill see how it work tomorrow. pics below.
sorry bout the quality, just an iphone. if anyone has any requests for pictures let me know, ill take them. ill also take more after i make it all nice and pretty.
edit: so i got longer screws. couldn't find the right spacers inbetween those screws. the screws are got are a tad bit thick. i shall have to find skinnier ones later but it still decent. for the spaces, i just put 4 nuts on the screw, works for now. mines really ghetto lol. i need to cut the spacer for the heat element and put the teflon tape on it after. as for use: turn it up way to high, way under half as well. started to combust. turn it down near a quarter and still the same, but i think because it was still hot from where i started it from. seemed to get vapor on last hit. not testing anymore tonight. ill see how it work tomorrow. pics below.
sorry bout the quality, just an iphone. if anyone has any requests for pictures let me know, ill take them. ill also take more after i make it all nice and pretty.
Acolyte of Zinglon
Wizard-Ninja
you dont want any contact between the element and the glass
hey guys. those of you who have done the AoZ mod with the spacer in between the metal part of the heater cover: how close should that spacer be to the element? i had home depot cut mine, and it went in a bit so its kinda touching but theres a little wiggle room.
AoZ, it keeps it 100% centered, nice mod you made there sir.
AoZ, it keeps it 100% centered, nice mod you made there sir.
Acolyte of Zinglon
Wizard-Ninja
nice, so you got it working? i also threw a silicone o ring on the bottom of mine below the teflon just for the hell of it i also found that the ssv heater cover mates with the vrip lower intake, so i have a bowl to use it on my bong (still wanting to order an ehle 250... soon.... soon)
i ordered my replacement heater cover the other day, paypal echeck goes through tomorrow then i should get it before next wed
edit: oh on mine the spacer sits just below the intake hole
i ordered my replacement heater cover the other day, paypal echeck goes through tomorrow then i should get it before next wed
edit: oh on mine the spacer sits just below the intake hole
its working, yea. i THINK the dimmer hinders what it could truly be. it works, nice clouds. but weeds a very dark colour after. its how the dimmer works. when im less broke, ill probably go and buy a controller or another short of dimmer that works better. i can explain why i THINK it doesn't work for those who want to know but dont think anyone will use it the dimmer for a while. this of course could mean that im not used to how to use it yet, but ive tried it to test the low end and the high end, purposely, and doesn't seem like theres alot of space between the 2. all comes down to the dimmer. also, i meant the inside of the spacer to the element itself. i haven't used it with it centered yet, because i dont know if the metal of the space sould be touching, and if not, all ill have to do is grind down the edges.
Hey guys, thanks again for the great idea for this vaporizer - Here is the updated on my personal modifications (im stil waiting for my heater cover to come in but have everything else).
1. I looked up the MSDS for the ptfe tape I found in my garage (brand is Harvey I think) and it is 100% ptfe and is safe at the temperatures of our expected use according to the health warning in the MSDS as well as the wikipedia article which states "The pyrolysis of PTFE is detectable at 200 C (392 F), and it evolves several fluorocarbon gases and a sublimate. Animal studies indicate that it is highly unlikely that these products would be generated in amounts significant to health at temperatures below 250 C"
2. As an alternative to PVC tube I have drilled a hole in a wine bottle cork and sanded it out and it fits snuggly over the hakko threads (i dont have the heater cover but when I do I will sand out the other side to get a good fit). I think this will also provide a much more rigid support and I feel much more comfortable using it as opposed to pvc (just my feeling - I couldn't find any information on food safety and heated cork although several things raised my concern with heating pvc (read pvc wikipedia article) ).
3. Im going to take some temperature measurements of the ambient air right next to the heating element (with heater cover off) to get some indication of what setting correlates with what temperature(I would expect the actual temp over herb to be a few degrees less as you are pulling the over herbs but can't think of a way to get my thermometer in the bowl while inhaling so i think that will be the next best). I'd appreciate some setting numbers that you guys have tested it out on and some description of change in herb color (so I have some ideas where to start).
Il post some pics once my heater cover is in and I get everything set up.
1. I looked up the MSDS for the ptfe tape I found in my garage (brand is Harvey I think) and it is 100% ptfe and is safe at the temperatures of our expected use according to the health warning in the MSDS as well as the wikipedia article which states "The pyrolysis of PTFE is detectable at 200 C (392 F), and it evolves several fluorocarbon gases and a sublimate. Animal studies indicate that it is highly unlikely that these products would be generated in amounts significant to health at temperatures below 250 C"
2. As an alternative to PVC tube I have drilled a hole in a wine bottle cork and sanded it out and it fits snuggly over the hakko threads (i dont have the heater cover but when I do I will sand out the other side to get a good fit). I think this will also provide a much more rigid support and I feel much more comfortable using it as opposed to pvc (just my feeling - I couldn't find any information on food safety and heated cork although several things raised my concern with heating pvc (read pvc wikipedia article) ).
3. Im going to take some temperature measurements of the ambient air right next to the heating element (with heater cover off) to get some indication of what setting correlates with what temperature(I would expect the actual temp over herb to be a few degrees less as you are pulling the over herbs but can't think of a way to get my thermometer in the bowl while inhaling so i think that will be the next best). I'd appreciate some setting numbers that you guys have tested it out on and some description of change in herb color (so I have some ideas where to start).
Il post some pics once my heater cover is in and I get everything set up.
Well heater cover in and modifications done:
The clip proping the device up is something i found. I hot glue gunned it on and it works wonderfully
The wood thing holding it together is a cork from a wine bottle. I drilled down it with the biggest bit I had then cut it to the proper length with a serated knife. I then sanded it out with some sandpaper that I wrapped around a thin file and duck taped the top and bottom of to keep the sandpaper on.
I find it holds it rigidly and there is no longer any need for the metal spacer(or ptfe tape).
before and after .... well really next and after
my real passion
Also here are some temperature measurements I made and the % on the Mini Phaser (the temp measure was taken with an instand read thermometer against the ceramic element before the heater cover was put on):
Mini Phaser % / C
100 / >250
50 / >250
30 / ~132
40 / ~206
35 / 177-183
36 / 180-190 <------ sweet spot!
http://aimediaserver4.com/studiodaily/videoplayer/?src=ai4/harvard/harvard.swf&width=640&height=520 <------ a tiny bit of whats going on in each of the ~10^14 (100 billion) cells in your body.
The clip proping the device up is something i found. I hot glue gunned it on and it works wonderfully
The wood thing holding it together is a cork from a wine bottle. I drilled down it with the biggest bit I had then cut it to the proper length with a serated knife. I then sanded it out with some sandpaper that I wrapped around a thin file and duck taped the top and bottom of to keep the sandpaper on.
I find it holds it rigidly and there is no longer any need for the metal spacer(or ptfe tape).
before and after .... well really next and after
my real passion
Also here are some temperature measurements I made and the % on the Mini Phaser (the temp measure was taken with an instand read thermometer against the ceramic element before the heater cover was put on):
Mini Phaser % / C
100 / >250
50 / >250
30 / ~132
40 / ~206
35 / 177-183
36 / 180-190 <------ sweet spot!
http://aimediaserver4.com/studiodaily/videoplayer/?src=ai4/harvard/harvard.swf&width=640&height=520 <------ a tiny bit of whats going on in each of the ~10^14 (100 billion) cells in your body.
Acolyte of Zinglon
Wizard-Ninja
the spacer and ptfe tape arent to hold the heater cover stable, theyre to keep the actual ceramic element centered in the heater cover, keeping the element centered keeps it from contacting the glass and potentially damaging it and it also is a much better placement because air can surround it on all sides evenly for more even heat transfer
KeepCalm
Reindeer, reindeer, reindeer
Wow, so cool to see others make this! vaelrenx, the cork looks great! Gives it a little more of an "organic" feel for sure! I find my sweet spot is a little higher than 35 as well, gradually turning it up to 40 or so to finish the bowl. Cool to see some validation.
Acolyte of Zinglon
Wizard-Ninja
i originally tryed bending the metal peice from the heater cover to keep it cenetered but it didnt wrk vary well for me