DIY Hakko + SSV Heater Cover

[Acolyte of Zinglon]

I think you should be asking yourself a different question...Does the 7th floor sell empty SSV bodies so we can fully call this a SSV clone

I like the angle of the ssv...would be dope to get a modded model going

no need for an ssv body, just use a desk microphone stand and you can put it at pretty much any angle you want to, heres the one i got, the base is very heavy (die cast) and keeps the whole thing very stable
http://accessories.musiciansfriend....Low-Profile-Die-Cast-Mic-Stand?sku=451037#new
the best kind of clip for this application is a spring loaded clamp, the springs are very powerful and it has a lot of gripping power, keeps the wand very stable, heres the one i got
http://pro-audio.musiciansfriend.com/product/ProLine-Universal-Microphone-Clip?sku=279101#new

i dont know if that heater cover comment was for me AoZ but yea i am going stay with the ssv cover. just goinng switch the phaser and possibly the iron as well

no sorry. what i meant is that my replacement heater cover is shipping out today or tomorrow, my first one broke from too high heat and the element contacting the side of the glass. im waiting till i have all the parts to start writing my guide and take pictures of the build process

 

[jklasd]

hoppefully it comes soon. im eager to read your write up.

 

[jklasd]

http://cgi.ebay.com/INLAND-InstaHea...0?hash=item3ef262745a&_trksid=p3286.m20.l1116
what do you guys thing of that? i tried looking for the type of ceramic element it in, but was only able to find very little info. looks like the element is a stock product from inland.

 

[Hennessy1414]

its almost the same price as a hakko...dont cheap out man...just stick with the hakko.

 

[Acolyte of Zinglon]

looks like theres going to be a bit more of a delay than i had predicted, my girl had the money all weekend and mistakenly spent it because she forgot it was mine.... so it will probably be another week and a half :/

 

[jklasd]

Hen- im think im gonna have to. got a few more stops to make before i give in though! haha.
AoZ- haha "mistakenly" "forgot". every guy with a girl hears those words alot

 

[Acolyte of Zinglon]

Hen- im think im gonna have to. got a few more stops to make before i give in though! haha.
AoZ- haha "mistakenly" "forgot". every guy with a girl hears those words alot

aint it the truth

 

[ILoveRadiohead!]

Here are some pics of my finished SSV wand. It was very easy to put together and I'm really happy with the results both in usage and appearance. You can get supermassive clouds with this thing that are super tasty IMO. It's definitely wasteful hitting bigger loads like that but obviously fun. I've tried loading smaller amounts and you can get closer to PD efficiency that way.

Even though I have a dremel I decided to not use it after conversing with Acolyte of Zinglon about the design. Dremeling would add quite a bit of work and I'm not sure the end results would really be that much better if at all. Total cost with stand was $95 but thats without the ehle or whip. The official SSV whip will add another $20 (which I actually just ordered for fun) and the ehle costs just over $50.

Here are a few more pics:


I bought a $9 desktop mic stand thats 4.5" tall off of amazon thats very sturdy and compact. The mic clip is a spare one I had but it fit perfectly.

Close up of the connection.

Here it is mated with the 14mm Medium Ehle Bowl. Perfect fit and seems to hold a good amount.

In combination with the 100ml Ehle with ice notches.

 

[aznfknpride]

How do you do it without the dremel? I'm ordering all the stuff tonight, I want to build this to hold me over til the PD gets here!

 

[Acolyte of Zinglon]

basically you slip the 5/8 vinyl tubing over the end of the heater cover, then sli the other end onto the threads, this can then be secured further with one of these dealies, which prevents the glass from moving
http://www.drillspot.com/products/59810/Ideal_6203_Hose_Clamp

the other modification i made is a little more complex, it is a system to keep the heater centered in the now motionless heater cover, it involves cuttingoff the top centimeter or so of this part of the hakko

this part is then wrapped in ptfe (teflon) tape and inserted into the little metal sleeve that comes with the ssv heater cover, then insert it and you should have woundd the teflon tape just thick enough for it ti sit on the inside of the sleeve. when you insert it, the teflon will fill the space between the hakko spacer and the heater cover metal strip, and should sit centered, the heaing element goes through this and is kept spaced from the glass, ensuring maximum heat transfer and keeping the heater from contacting the side of the heater cover


also a note to anyone who has/will make this, never turn it up past 70, thats when you risk the heater melting a spot onto it, and this creates cracks when it ools, which significantly weaken the streangth of the heater cover, ive alreay lost one heater cover to this mistake

 

[jklasd]

AoZ- i think i understand what mods were made. the tubing part is easy enough to understand. the other mod is, as you said, more complex . pics would be a help when you do your write up. how much was the tape?

 

[Acolyte of Zinglon]

ptfe tape isnt very expensive, its used in plumbing to seal threads if i recall correctly, i dont have the prices though because i borrowed it from my dad, but it wouldnt be too expensive

i decided to use ptfe because it is used in high temperature cookware and food preparation utensils, and wouldnt be effected by whatever heat goes that far down the element (minimal, the base barely gets warm during operation)

i also assembled mine with the broken heater cover and "stress tested" it at 80 for 20 mins and it held up, so it seems like a good material choice (not to mention that it is used in the herbalaire, which is perfectly safe)

sorry for the stoned rambling, i hope thers a good few tidbits of info to glean from it, i also realize i didnt explain it very well, im planning on making a video of the assembly, and youll get a much better idea from that

 

[jklasd]

the description is pretty much the best you can do without photos/vids, AoZ, dont be so hard on yourself . and this wouldn't be a vaporizer forum without stoned rambling either

 

[aznfknpride]

Well I ordered a:
Hakko 456
Mini phaser temp control
SSV heater cover/whip
Desktop microphone stand

I just need long #3 screws (anybody got the exact length I need?), 5/8 vinyl tubing (ID or OD?), and some zip ties, correct?
Sorry if this has been covered earlier on in the thread, I'm actually supposed to be working right now

 

[ILoveRadiohead!]

I just need long #3 screws (anybody got the exact length I need?), 5/8 vinyl tubing (ID or OD?), and some zip ties, correct?

I used 1/2" #3 screws if I remember correctly and the tubing is 5/8" ID (I got mine from Lowes at 40 cents for a foot). Zip ties can be used or metal plumbing clamps like AoZ mentioned.

 

[Acolyte of Zinglon]

you dont need to replace the screws if youre not dremeling

 

[aznfknpride]

Mmm.. I think I should wait til I get everything here so I can understand what you guys are talking about better, haha.

Looking forward to seeing AoZ's video or any pictures showing the assembly process, though it'll probably make me even more anxious for those parts to arrive lol

 

[jklasd]

AoZ, you dont need screws if your not dremeling? i figured you still would. thanks, save me from wasting money haha. i haven't decided if im going order the soldering iron in next pay, but who knows, maybe if im feeling lucky haha.

 

[ILoveRadiohead!]

AoZ, you dont need screws if your not dremeling? i figured you still would.

Well I actually ordered 2 heater covers and they are slightly different in size. One of them is actually about a 1/4 in longer than the other one and feels a tiny bit lighter. The area near the nozzle also was a smidge wider which I'm sure is just due to the nature of hand blown glass.

Here is a pic of the heater covers so you can get a gauge of the differences.

Here are two pics of the covers attached to the hakko. You can see how the longer one has enough room to fit the hakko without an extension.


Personally I preferred the shorter heavier piece with the narrow nozzle hole. I also noticed that the heating element seemed a bit more solid with the 1/4" inch aluminum spacers and 1/2" screws so I decided on that option. The longer heater cover I have could definitely work without the small extension but the shorter cover wouldn't have.

 

[jklasd]

the 1/4" spacer that AoZ mentioned with the tape? is that what your referring to as you say spacer? did you notice a different in heat as your breathe in between the 2?

 

[Acolyte of Zinglon]

hes referring to the longer screws, they put the flange further up on the heating element, i guess it really depends on your heater cover then

that is a good question tohugh, do you notice any difference in temperature between the two?

 

[jklasd]

ahhh, i got ya.
without trying it, my guess would be the higher the element, the hotter it would be but this is only a guess.

 

[jklasd]

so i order the iron today. also got the dimmer rotary switch. went for the tubing but all i could find was 30 PSI @ 70 degrees f. is that the right stuff? it was vinyl and looked like the same tubing but didnt know if it was right.

 

[aznfknpride]

I got my stuff from 7th floor as well as the Hakko and the mini phaser... I'm going over to the hardware store tomorrow after work to grab the 1/2" screws, 1/4" spacers (just in case I have the short heater cover), 5/8" ID tubing, and some PTFE..

Any more tips on how to assemble without dremeling? Do I still need to put tubing into the handle of the hakko? I'm still rather unsure of how to do this, AoZ, any luck with those assembly pictures or video?

 

[Acolyte of Zinglon]

i dont have the money to order a new heater cover, if youd like to help out i can give you my paypal avvount name

basiaclly you only need 1" pf the vinyl tubing, you slip part over the heater cover and part over the threads on the flange, make it so the heater cover actually touches the top of the flange. then you secure it with one of those plumbing clamps, (zip ties work, but they allow the heater cover to move back and fourth when the tubing flexes, putting the element off-center, which i think reduces the heat transfer from the element to the air) try to get half the band on the flange and half on the heater cover, tighten it down, and your heater cover should be secure

if youre going to use the longer screws you may not need the little extra thing to keep the element centered, my heater cover was just long enough to accomodate the element without the element hitting the top using the stock screws, but i guess its a gamble with the hand-blown glass