DIY G43

[Bumping Spheda]

Title says most of it.

I'm looking for:
- Bigger coil(s) for faster heat up
- Slightly bigger bowl
- Possibly more terp pearls for bigger bowl extraction
- Insulated so it's safer for portable use

What I've thought up so far:
- Stempod OG as base platform
- Large SS or Kanthal coils wrapped around quartz rod
- Terp pearls filled to brim inside heating chamber (underneath protective bud screen)
- Either Ultimate Cooling Stem from DDave Mods or XL8R cooling stem from RBT
- Possibly further insulate the Stempod housing than just the silicone cover

Does anybody have any interest in this project? Do they think it will work? Basically looking for something that's portable, yet hits like 4 Dynavaps at once...

 

[KeroZen]

hits like 4 Dynavaps at once

Your tolerance must be uber high if you need that kind of fix to be happy...

 

[Bumping Spheda]

Your tolerance must be uber high if you need that kind of fix to be happy...

I have a Splinter Z V2. I mean it's okay. I wish it extracted the bowl in 1 hit instead of 1.5. And I wish the bowl was slightly larger. Idk, maybe 4 Dynavaps is exaggerating my intentions a bit.

 

[Hippie]

To fulfil your criteria you could ....
Turn the power up for faster heat up and turn it down again once it's up to temp
Use an adapter like the elv8 one for a bigger bowl and turn up the power a little to compensate for the extra distance from the heater to the herb
Wrap the glass to insulate it

Or buy a 2nd G43 and a double header adapter

Or ...
As I briefly mentioned in the Stempod thread, for my DIY project I use an 18mm 3 way claisen adapter like this https://ebay.us/mIosUU and post the wires in thro the side arm, out of the airpath.
With a 5mm glass rod in the centre, wrapped with 2 x 1ft long lengths of 28 gauge Kanthal in a dual coil setup so it reads about 2.5ohms, which is surrounded by 3mms glass beads and all held in place by SS gauze top and bottom where the glass changes diameter, and cork stuffed in the side arm to block any air from coming in that way.

I went with a 2.5ohm build as my box mods let you go up to 3ohms so I can power it with either a box mod running sur_myevic or with my 12v 5A PSU and a step down converter like this https://ebay.us/jOw36K (that I also use with my G43). You don't get many flights from a dual battery mod tho to be honest.

Size wise I'd say it sits somewhere between the 2 main influences for the build, the Glass Symphony and the G43, and hits accordingly. With the heater and balls secured in the middle it works either way up, with 18mm male and female joints on either end, so there are lots of bowl options too.

 

[Bumping Spheda]

Awesome tips.

I kind of need 510 powered. I figured a quad-18650 with a charger like always linked up via micro-usb.

Also kind of need this thing to be cool enough moments after hitting it that I can at least shove it in a glovebox for safe keeping, if not a hefty pocket (impossible, I think, unless we use aero gel, haha).

That's kind of where I'm at. Idk if I wanna take this project on, tbh, I think it's past my expertise.

 

[Hippie]

If you trim down the StemPod air inlet pipes you could install bigger quad coils

I think I managed to squeeze 4 x 12 wrap 3mm coils using 24 gauge (.51mm) 316L in the standard deck so if you trim them down you should be able to get 18 or more wraps in there, which should pack a bit more ooomph

 

[Bumping Spheda]

Where'd you find 3mm terp pearls? I only see 6mm everywhere.

 

[Hippie]

Bud has the 3mm glass balls he uses for the G43 on his site
https://shop.vapelife.com/collections/all

 

[Bumping Spheda]

or with my 12v 5A PSU and a step down converter like this https://ebay.us/jOw36K (that I also use with my G43). You don't get many flights from a dual battery mod tho to be honest.

Can you create a big battery bank for that step down converter? Like a serious battery bank?

-Edit-
I think this would work:
https://www.amazon.com/Energup-Upgr...+decker+2.0ah&qid=1567285234&s=gateway&sr=8-9

It's a 10 cell: http://i.imgur.com/TAvWN3y.jpg

I have one already for our weed wacker, but it just has a plus and minus terminal on it, I've jammed copper braid wire into the contacts before and run high powered brushless motors. It's 40V which is the max input for this little guy:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/RD-DPS3005...395933&hash=item1cd7286b0a:g:sd0AAOSwsB5dTOg1

Looks like the same thing you have.

If I can somehow insulate this thing I might be able to make a pretty cool transportable rig. Just need to find suitable glass rod for coils and I think that's everything aside from SS mesh and possibly some insulator to hold the coil leads in place coming out the unit.

Will the side arm get too hot to hold do you think?

 

[Hippie]

Wowee that's gonna be like the portable flowerpot setup with that battery pack

I'm a big chicken with electricity and hadn't considered that approach at all to be honest.
I'll connect anything to a boxmod tho, with blind faith the protection circuitry will just say no when I'm being stupid

The side arm on mine doesn't get hot, even after 2 hours at temp.
There are no balls in the side arm tho, just the wires, 2 connector blocks and slices of cork stuffed in there to block it off and hold everything in.

My glass rod is a 5mm lab glass stirrer (from ebay again) that I've chopped up and flame polished the ends to take the edge off. The length of the rod makes a big difference to the heat diffusion by the way. I get much more even heat delivery if I trim the rod and position it with a few balls between the rod ends and the screens. If it's too long you get a big cold spot in the centre the same diameter as the rod.
I tried a few heater cartridges in there too, like the log makers use, but I think they were all too short and ended up glowing too much for my liking.
Speaking of which, the coil will need pulsing on a boxmod like and ecig coil to bed it in and work out the hot spots when you first install it. The resistance will be a bit funky when you do that but it will settle and not need doing again, once it's done.

 

[Bumping Spheda]

What are the connector blocks you speak of? You don't just crimp the wire to your coils?

How do you keep the terp pearls out of the side arm without shorting out the coils?

Thanks for all your help. Yeah, I agree with you, if this works out as planned it'll be hella dope.

Which mouthpiece do you think?
https://modpodlabs.com/product/cooling-stem/
or
https://www.ddavemods.com/store/p80/The_Ultimate_Cooling_Stem.html

The ModPod stem can hold .5-.7 if you pack behind the screen. Idk if you can do the same with the DDavemods stem. ModPod stem would be much easier to clean, for sure, but DDavemods stem might cool more which could be nice with this kind of setup perhaps.

 

[Hippie]

These kind of things (without the plastic jacket)
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/328...d=9848amp-J927G7zBIfTT2Ty7iE48fQ1567309287792

It's easy to try different coils and other heater options with the screw down terminal connectors.

All held in place with pieces of cork. The 1st piece I put in goes between the 2 terminal blocks then I start sliding more in to hold the connectors in place and block the airflow as best I can.

There's loads of stem and bowl options.
You can fill the male end like Bud does with the G43 and hold it in with a top hat gauze for example.
Or sit the male end in an 18mm male/female adapter like http://www.bakebros.com/Female-To-M...-Streamlined-180-Clear-Female-18mm-18mm-Male/ with a gauze in the bubble for the biggest bowl I use (and loads of other cheap adapters on eBay for more options)
Or use the device the other way up with a top hat gauze in your stem like we do with the Stempod and Splinter Or a rimless gauze pushed further down the stem for a bigger bowl.
Or or or

I usually use it like a flowerpot with my bongs. And think I might pickup a j hook soon for some action

 

[Bumping Spheda]

These kind of things (without the plastic jacket)
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/328...d=9848amp-J927G7zBIfTT2Ty7iE48fQ1567309287792

So you tear the plastic off?

-Edit-
I see from this picture what you mean, you just slice the plastic open and nab the metal connector. Pretty neat, you're full of great tips. I'll have to try to keep these connectors accessible after my insulation attempt to keep the coils serviceable.

All held in place with pieces of cork.

Gotcha

There's loads of stem and bowl options.

I need a bowl and vapor cooling in a compact solution. The 18mm cooling stems for Splinters and StemPods make the most sense to me.

Review of StemPod
https://www.youtube.com/watch?time_continue=853&v=9rciS5rPZSs
He says the StemPod cooling mouthpiece is thinner glass and it overheats... Not chill for the vape I'm making. Going with Ddaves, I heard those can be dropped on tile, haha. One other thing I like is someone said the Ultimate Cooling Stem is too restrictive of airflow. I actually like the sound of that.

I usually use it like a flowerpot with my bongs. And think I might pickup a j hook soon for some action

Haha. Sounds like the vapor could be hot with just a jhook. How big of a bowl do you roast? In one hit? How fast do the glass beads cool down? Like can you hit bowl after bowl and can you inhale super fast?


-Edit-
Just nabbed an Ultimate Cooling Stem from Ddavemods, got a good feeling about it and I already have a Splinter Z so I can use it right away without building/investing further into the custom vape right now. $23 shipped, Idk, seems like a solid deal to me for what you get. So if this stem fits the Splinter/StemPod it will also fit this claisen connector?


-Edit 2-
I'm gonna grab one of these and drill holes in the claisen connector for coil entries, it'll be interesting finagling the coils, but it lets me use SS mesh to keep the glass beads out of the side arm which I think will be a relatively clean solution.

I inquired about this product. I want to see if they'll sell me a roll or two as a sample order or something. I asked them how many times I'd have to wrap a 50mm x 2" glass rod radiating at 900°F to get insulation to the point of bare hand handling. We'll see what they report back if they even give me the time of day. *fingers crossed* "suitable for continuous use at 1,800°F" Are you kidding? Haha. Even 900°F is higher than we need, but just playing it safe.

Ordered all the slow boat stuff from China, so basically the claisen connector, glass stirrers, and constant voltage step down converter. I have the Black & Decker 40V battery and some SS wire to make coils so I can start messing with coils as soon as that stuff arrives. This could be dope. Like you said, something like what I'm trying to build with custom electronics driving the coils that can go hard to get up to temp and then log out at whatever it needs to be, basically, would be ideal. How long does your dual coil take to heat up?

 

[Hippie]

Yeah - snip that plastic off
I meant to say to avoid the brass terminal blocks and look for copper ones for a safer airpath.

Tubo wooden capsule stems are a little thinner on the inside so they restrict the draw a little too but should be pocketable and tidy, with the s&b capsules.
Or Alan could probably make you something
An ash catcher or pre cooler could be another option
And also trying to remember where I saw a spikey j hook I know I've seen one

Like the G43 and flowerpot it needs a brisk draw to get things going so it's not really one for the sippers
it shouldn't take you many bowls to dial in the voltages for different bowl setups and usage scenarios with the variable voltage step down converter and know how much to bump it up or down if you want to rip it back to back or wait a little longer between draws.
The SS coil in the G43 changes resistance with temp you get an idea of how hot it is by the changing wattage shown on the step down converter or resistance reading on the box mod. Not sure how many ohms to shoot for with the SS wires I've been using in the StemPod in my DiY thing but it's definitely on my to do list.

Have you seen Bud's future G43 options? He showed us a boxed version of the no box mod battery sled version in one of his recent live streams, which sounds like it ticks a lot of your boxes.

Edit : 2 - 3 mins heat up depending on how hard you push it. You gotta wait for the heat to conduct through the beads so I think you'll get uneven heat of you push it much more than that.

 

[Bumping Spheda]

Yeah - snip that plastic off
I meant to say to avoid the brass terminal blocks and look for copper ones for a safer airpath.

Whoops. Already bought brass. They will be completely outside the claisen connector, though, due to me drilling entry holes for the coils. Not sure it matters anymore. Feel free to advise.

Have you seen Bud's future G43 options? He showed us a boxed version of the no box mod battery sled version in one of his recent live streams, which sounds like it ticks a lot of your boxes.

Nope. You have a link? I'd still have to insulate the G43 like hell, I suppose. Female to female gets me back to Splinter cooling stems if I hold the G43 upside down... Idk, I'm already balls deep in the DIY version, haha. But I'll definitely check it out if you can show me something. The G43 does tick a lot of boxes, but I can't wait 5 minutes for it to heat up. That's honestly the deal breaker for me. Even 2 minute heat up is sketch for me, but it's doable. If I'm at home, sure, 5 minutes, no big deal. But out on the go? I like my 5 second pre-heat Splinter in that regard. The 30 second pre-heat Boundless Tera is cool, too, in my book. For something like this, though? You can't realistically expect heat up times anywhere near approaching those for a design like this, imo.



What do you think of this combo?
16mm boro tube
+
16mm enail + PID
+
Battery bank for a PID


You'd have to cut boro tube to size, fuse glass inlet on bottom that doesn't let the beads fall out, yet doesn't get clogged by them, slide enail over boro tube, fill tube with beads, then finally fuse an 18mm female joint on top of boro tube (for ultimate cooling stem attachment) that allows air to pass, keeps beads in, doesn't get clogged by beads, and produces even avb... Sort of like Cloud EVO meets Glass Symphony. Insulate everything so it's safe to hold at temp and this would sell like hotcakes, no?

 

[Hippie]

He's got a battery sled G43 in the works that doesn't need a box mod, that he's shown off in his live streams and mentioned a few times on his Vapelife forum, and a version of that, that he's put in a box too.
The live streams get deleted so I'm not sure if there are any videos of them the on the forum now, unfortunately.
There are pics of the sled version on page 90 and a broken portable (the boxed one) on page 95 of the G43 thread (where you can also join the waitlist for them) here https://forum.vapelife.com/discussion/4306/the-g43-vaporizer-official-thread

The G43 and my DiY thing's heat up times are about the same, I'd say. I have the G43 turned up a little too high to get it going and need to draw some air through it to even out the heat before I load it up, otherwise I get a small hotspot on the 1st draw. The same power setting is about right for the rest of the bowl, with my draw speed and timing between draws, and probably little high for some as you'll get a hotspot if you leave it too long between draws (hence what I was saying before about uneven heat).

If you're happy drilling holes in the glass you could use a carbon filter adapter piece like https://www.grasscity.co.uk/g-spot-carbon-adapter-short.html for example, there's loads of those available with different size filter sections. With a smaller mid section and less terp pearls you may be able to shave a little off the heat up time but it will also hold less heat for the big rips.

 

[BestBuds]

Judging by Buds last stream the G43 DIY page should take off soon. Looks like the G will be a limited run vape as he won't be making more than what he has now.

 

[Bumping Spheda]

There are pics of the sled version on page 90 and a broken portable (the boxed one) on page 95 of the G43 thread

Ah. So on page 95, the G43 is insulated inside that box?

The G43 and my DiY thing's heat up times are about the same, I'd say. I have the G43 turned up a little too high to get it going and need to draw some air through it to even out the heat before I load it up, otherwise I get a small hotspot on the 1st draw. The same power setting is about right for the rest of the bowl, with my draw speed and timing between draws, and probably little high for some as you'll get a hotspot if you leave it too long between draws (hence what I was saying before about uneven heat).

Hrm. That sounds more complicated than I anticipated. Do you know if the updated G43 (battery sled/single box solution) has preheat settings? Like does it auto-adjust current/voltage given temperature of coil? Not having temperature sensing is crippling, imo.

If you're happy drilling holes in the glass you could use a carbon filter adapter piece like https://www.grasscity.co.uk/g-spot-carbon-adapter-short.html for example, there's loads of those available with different size filter sections.

Dang, that's a nice looking piece of glass.

I like this one:
https://aqualabtechnologies.com/products/si-pipes-18mm-ultra-carbon-filter-adapter
Looks like you could fit two nice sized coils in there, and glass beads shouldn't mess with air intake. If you scroll down and look at the reviews one of them has a picture of the unit in hand and it's a nice shot for scale, it's a pretty big unit. Could probably hold the male joint on the bottom while vaping it, shouldn't get too hot. The drilled entry holes for coils will mess with the airflow too much , I think, so much cool air would just bypass half the heated beads nothing would happen. Hrm.

Judging by Buds last stream the G43 DIY page should take off soon. Looks like the G will be a limited run vape as he won't be making more than what he has now.

Interesting. The more the merrier. If we design something good and bulk ordering seems like an option maybe we can put some build-your-own kits together, haha, that could be fun. But, yeah, this project seems like a lot of fun. On the cusp of being really great, imo.

 

[Hippie]

I don't think there are any preheat options or anything to play with, he just puts a battery in and it starts to heat in the streams I've seen. I suspect there's a dial on it somewhere to adjust the voltage with a screwdriver altho I don't think he's actually said where there is or not.
In that box there's a G43, a sled and the bowl from the broken j hook.

On a box mod you don't get any temp sensing either.
It works great in wattage mode once you've found the wattage for your setup and usage

Temp control will always be slow with a tube of glass balls imo, particularly when the coil in the centre is the sensor too. I think Bud had originally planned to use TC with the G43 but there's loads of great log vapes that don't have any of that malarkey and just use a simple voltage regulator in the same way as we use wattage mode to power the G43.

 

[Bumping Spheda]

So I'm thinking I can wrap the carbon filter with this insulator:
https://www.walmart.com/ip/Moaere-8...at-3-6-10mm-Thickness/693264618?selected=true

I can probably get the aerogel really tight with the use of duct tape around it. Then I can put a thick even coat of epoxy or something around all of that so it's not a padded hunk of duct tape and the glass is a little protected. It will probably heat up faster and retain heat better this way.

I heard aerogel pads like this can have aerogel dust in them, though, I wouldn't want those coil entry holes I'm drilling to suck a bunch of aerogel into the vape. Anybody know of something I could seal those holes with that's high temp resistant and won't off-gas toxic chemicals?

-Edit-
Canceled the claisen connector order and purchased the last carbon filter adapter.

 

[Bumping Spheda]

Hippie, would you recommend Temco 28ga Kanthal, or something else? If you made new coils, what would you use?

 

[Hippie]

My 28gauge Kanthal A1 spool is Stealth Vape brand
https://www.stealthvape.co.uk/KANTHAL-REELS-SPOOLS
(bought about 10 years ago for rebuilding old ecig atomizers before temp controlled vaping became a thing)

I'll probably try some of the Stainless Steel wire I bought for the StemPod next

The Steam engine tools are handy for the coil maths
https://www.steam-engine.org/

 

[Bumping Spheda]

I have TEMCo 28ga SS, but it's brittle. I wonder if I could use it with those brass connectors I bought without snapping the wire. My Squape X[dream] snaps them every time, but maybe it's just that vape's specific design? I literally have a whole spool of unusable 28ga SS round wire that I've been sitting on for years. It wraps coils fine, it malleable enough to wrap, I mean, I don't even understand. Should make a good coil if it doesn't snap.

I'm inquiring about purchasing some of this adhesive to seal the coil inlet holes:
https://www.gteek.com/High-temperature-adhesive-VS-K-1200

 

[Hippie]

I normally just double up the wire at the ends and twist it round a few times to make it thicker if the post screws are shearing through it.

RastaBuddhaTao uses Loctite® M-121HP medical epoxy in his Splinters which is rated up to 450F (230C) but he says the glass doesn't get hot where he puts it.
I thought you were going to cover it with some silicone vape bands like the StemPod or some tape stuff.

 

[Bumping Spheda]

I normally just double up the wire at the ends and twist it round a few times to make it thicker if the post screws are shearing through it.

Great idea. Thanks again.

RastaBuddhaTao uses Loctite® M-121HP medical epoxy in his Splinters which is rated up to 450F (230C) but he says the glass doesn't get hot where he puts it.

Yeah, I need something with a higher temperature limit. Glass Symphony enails run at like 800F, don't they?

I thought you were going to cover it with some silicone vape bands like the StemPod or some tape stuff.

Couldn't find insulated tape that would sell to residential addresses, or even talk to you unless you had a business account email so I scrapped the idea. Idk if I could find silicone bands that would fit the carbon filter and are thick enough to insulate properly, I figured the aerogel would be easiest and cheapest to source. The aerogel blanket will be fully encased in an epoxy coating of some sort, so dust will not be an issue, and its insulative properties/heat tolerances are off the charts. It would be much more sightly to have a silicone band, though, I'd agree with that statement if anyone made it.