Hippie

Well-Known Member
Couple of updates
I built a female Whippi3 :whip:with an 18mm female adapter from the link above, for comparison :science:
Using another 1.3ohm 24AWG SS coil wrapped to 8mm this time as the female whip adapters are a little wider and a lot shorter than the males, which only needs about 4.0V (8.6W) with a 15mm gauze at the base of an 18mm joint for the bowl.
It's a tight squeeze for 35cm of wire so if I was to build another I'd use a shorter thinner wire and/or crimp connectors to leave a little more space for the coil and balls, now I know roughly how much power it needs.

I built another Bud Eater with a ceramic bulb holder and no SS sleeve this time (lots of SS mesh instead), which only needs just over 9W so I'm waiting on delivery of a 10W bulb for that at the moment.

And I've just taken delivery of a 936D soldering station so the ceramic heating element will be going in a Claisen or a big whip adapter, sometime over the weekend.
 
Hippie,

Bumping Spheda

Well-Known Member
Ahhh, you're being so productive. That Bud Eater sounds amazing. What kind of socket do you use? Any chance of off gassing metal from the socket? How is the wire insulator kept out of the mix, as in how doesn't it get melted or produce funny flavor? Are you somehow running bare wire to the socket? This thing sounds neat, would like to use it.

Soldering station? Wait what ceramic heating element? Replacing your diy coils?
 
Bumping Spheda,

Hippie

Well-Known Member
The Bud Eater is @blokenoname 's brilliant idea from the bottom of this page in the Misty Log thread and carried over the page for pics of inside
http://fuckcombustion.com/threads/the-misty-log-diy-wooden-log-vaporizer.26757/page-30

My first build I used the female socket connectors from these https://ebay.us/c4IooE
This build I used the brown and blue lead ceramic G4 sockets like Blokenoname has on page 31 - https://ebay.us/cAm9lo - avoid the ones with the black and white leads, they didn't pass the flame test :o

The top of the glass is cool enough to hold after being on for a few hours, all the way down to the business end of the socket and you can see it through the glass so I'm reasonably happy there's nothing nasty coming off. I cut some slits in the side of the whip adapter with a diamond cutting disc, rather than the top so the air comes in well below the insulation or connectors.
Gots to remember to torch the mesh a little to clean it before installation tho, otherwise you get that funky new coil taste for the 1st session as it cooks out (I keep forgetting to do that :doh:)


The solder station is for making something like a Life Saber http://fuckcombustion.com/threads/7th-floor-life-saber-lsv.2641/ and this thing http://fuckcombustion.com/threads/glass-vaporizer-by-unikatowebonga-pl.44963/ and I'll probably throw some balls in there like the Glass Symphony http://fuckcombustion.com/threads/glass-symphony-xlr.24261/ and the DiY GS http://fuckcombustion.com/threads/the-lab-glass-vaporizer.16879/ ..... if I can :)
I've got a couple of Claisens and a long whip adapter to put it in and on the lookout for a glass slide or something like the Polish guys are using, if you've seen anything?
I think the Hakko A1321 ceramic elements are about 75mm all in with a 50mm heater section
 
Hippie,

Hippie

Well-Known Member
The heat from the ceramic soldering iron element is more localised than I was hoping so I don't think it's up to the job of heating air or balls without a big heatsink to spread the heat.
I tried a few configurations with an 18mm Claisen, with and without balls in there but had to go up to nearly 400 C to get any vapour. Best results so far have been from treating it like a halogen and wrapping it in about an A5 size sheet of mesh and sliding that into a standard RBT stem.
It takes a couple of mins after it says it's up to temp to get up to heat but temp control seems to be working well after that with no recovery time needed between draws to make nice even AVB using an adapter with a gauze in the middle for the bowl.
I only used the RBT stem as it looked about the right size (and it was right in front of me lol) and think it'll just fit in a male to male adapter or a slide for a glass nail if you want a handle, not that I actually needed one tho as most of the RBT stem was still cool to the touch after an hour or so at temp.
 
Hippie,

blokenoname

DIY Log Dabbler 😁🪵💪💨💨💨
This build I used the brown and blue lead ceramic G4 sockets like Blokenoname has on page 31 - https://ebay.us/cAm9lo - avoid the ones with the black and white leads, they didn't pass the flame test :o

Don't rely on the coloring alone, please! There are no coloring conventions for insulation. Make sure, it sais "PTFE/Teflon" somewhere on the tin! And double check via a flame test, once you get them.

The brand I used, was "TrueXP". Those have teflon insulation.
 
blokenoname,
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KeroZen

Chronic vapaholic
Last edited:

Duck

Active Member
[QUOTE = "Abysmal Vapor, Beitrag: 1437620, Mitglied: 6543"] Nice post :). I have been playing around with similar concepts and DIY coils "" resistors "" for some time and I have to give that they work great. I think you added too many pearls. The idea is to only cover the coil, not the leads themselves?[/ QUOTE]


German....

 
Last edited:
Duck,
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Abysmal Vapor

Supersniffer 2000 - robot fart detection device
[QUOTE = "Abysmal Vapor, Beitrag: 1437620, Mitglied: 6543"] Nice post :). I have been playing around with similar concepts and DIY coils "" resistors "" for some time and I have to give that they work great. I think you added too many pearls. The idea is to only cover the coil, not the leads themselves?[/ QUOTE]



Great Video,those are some serious clouds ! :) Imo it is better suited for another DIY thread :) !
http://fuckcombustion.com/threads/diy-g43.43176/
http://fuckcombustion.com/threads/diy-elev8r-with-coil-and-glass-beads.37669/
 

Hippie

Well-Known Member
I've made a few of these :)


I use male and female whip adapters for small ones (using a dremel to cut some holes for the air inlet and post the wires in through the sidearm which also makes a nice handle)
Or 3 way adapters and claisen adapters for bigger ones, and post the wires in through the sidearm to keep them out of the airpath.

These 3 ways are my favourites at the moment

My latest build I used 4ohms of 26gauge SS wire which is wrapped as a 6mm coil in the male end and 8mm in the middle for use either way up, which I always planned to power with a step down converter (hence the 4ohm coil)

For anyone building these things you need to do some maths using ohms law 1st
V=IR
P=IV
And use the steam engine tools to calculate the length of wire

And please be sure your power supply or batteries and wiring can handle the current the circuit will demand
 

Duck

Active Member
Hello,
battery safety is not a big thing for me. my coils are between 0.6 and 1.1 ohms. with a sony vtc 4 or 5a, nothing should happen in continuous fire up to 20W.
When I think of the horror batteries of the Tera .. what did they think? completely dangerous battery chemi. the batteries were over 80 degrees hot. My not even warm by hand. do you have a picture of your vape?
The 3er coil from the old theme looks blatant. a wooden cover would be a nice replacement for all the plastic and insulation material.
 
Mikroweed Duck,

Vape Master

Formerly C3PO
Title says most of it.

I'm looking for:
- Bigger coil(s) for faster heat up
- Slightly bigger bowl
- Possibly more terp pearls for bigger bowl extraction
- Insulated so it's safer for portable use

What I've thought up so far:
- Stempod OG as base platform
- Large SS or Kanthal coils wrapped around quartz rod
- Terp pearls filled to brim inside heating chamber (underneath protective bud screen)
- Either Ultimate Cooling Stem from DDave Mods or XL8R cooling stem from RBT
- Possibly further insulate the Stempod housing than just the silicone cover

Does anybody have any interest in this project? Do they think it will work? Basically looking for something that's portable, yet hits like 4 Dynavaps at once... :\
How do I turn on the mod box on the G43 Vape?
 
Vape Master,
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