DIY Bulli Vaporizer

[Bongologist]

@enjiatt lock your resistance once you are in nickel mode. It should be around .20 -.24 and start your wattage at 40 and work your way up. Start your temp at 500 F and see how it goes. There is a firmware update for the evic mini also that increases it to 75w, though I haven't run over 65w yet. Generally I've found 50w at 500 F to be my sweet spot.

 

[enjiatt]

So i'm learning a lot doing this project. Id say the most important part of this setup would have to be the coil. (also don't forget to lock the resistance on the evic mini "i had no clue lol")
The coil that I am using isn't anything special whatsoever. I really feel that titanium 22 gauge wire is really springy and hard to work with. I should probably go out and purchase a torch.
In those regards
I have ordered 22GA SS 430 wire which I think will be much more forgiving. Its less corrosion resistant but I feel this it isn't very difficult to avoid corrosion. It also has good TCR values.

So my current platform is with the turbo v2. I thought that this would be the one but unfortunately because you have to take out the plastic piece it makes you have to use your hand for controlling the airflow (which I found out is actually pretty important also). This gets hot btw!!! At 60w with 450 I get a very consistent not super dark ABV. Its about what I like to finish with on the Arizer Air. the other one in the picture is at 420 I think.

I combusted two really big times last night and I wasn't sure why. Im thinking it was because I was not locking my resistance. I mean I actually combusted at 390 I thought. Seems it was most likely more then that. Then this afternoon I tried again with a new coil and locking the resistance this time and it worked very well.

I thought the taste through a metal piece was going to be gross but it is actually pretty delicious. Im going to modify the Royal hunter because the airflow system is all metal. Im going to start looking for a new RDA that has better airflow for our needs and is easy to put a screen on.

 

[StonerSloth]

I'm also finding that wrapping the coils is the hard part of this build. Everything else is cake! But I am not an eCig user so I have never wrapped a coil before... This is probably not the right project to learn on!

I think the smaller diameter of the "heating chamber" on the Bulli (14mm vs ~22mm on the Turbo and Royal Hunter) is important since it reduces the air space inside the chamber (assuming you have the same size coil.) Of course, this smaller diameter also makes building your coil and getting it inside the heating chamber a total bitch.

 

[E0x]

@enjiatt lock your resistance once you are in nickel mode. It should be around .20 -.24 and start your wattage at 40 and work your way up. Start your temp at 500 F and see how it goes. There is a firmware update for the evic mini also that increases it to 75w, though I haven't run over 65w yet. Generally I've found 50w at 500 F to be my sweet spot.

why is that ? i mean if a Titinum mode exist why not use it , can take a little of your time to explain the reason of this ?


thanks in advanced

 

[E0x]

So i'm learning a lot doing this project. Id say the most important part of this setup would have to be the coil. (also don't forget to lock the resistance on the evic mini "i had no clue lol")
The coil that I am using isn't anything special whatsoever. I really feel that titanium 22 gauge wire is really springy and hard to work with. I should probably go out and purchase a torch.
In those regards
I have ordered 22GA SS 430 wire which I think will be much more forgiving. Its less corrosion resistant but I feel this it isn't very difficult to avoid corrosion. It also has good TCR values.

So my current platform is with the turbo v2. I thought that this would be the one but unfortunately because you have to take out the plastic piece it makes you have to use your hand for controlling the airflow (which I found out is actually pretty important also). This gets hot btw!!! At 60w with 450 I get a very consistent not super dark ABV. Its about what I like to finish with on the Arizer Air. the other one in the picture is at 420 I think.

I combusted two really big times last night and I wasn't sure why. Im thinking it was because I was not locking my resistance. I mean I actually combusted at 390 I thought. Seems it was most likely more then that. Then this afternoon I tried again with a new coil and locking the resistance this time and it worked very well.

I thought the taste through a metal piece was going to be gross but it is actually pretty delicious. Im going to modify the Royal hunter because the airflow system is all metal. Im going to start looking for a new RDA that has better airflow for our needs and is easy to put a screen on.

Thanks a lot for doing this.

 

[Bongologist]

@E0x I'm really just learning and everything I'm telling you is from xenodius, pipes and anyone else previously in the thread. If I understand correctly, nickel (Ni) mode allows titanium wire to run 100 F (approx) less then in Ti mode at a lower resistance. Resistance rises with temps so running in Ni mode should allow for hotter temps at lower resistance. I am truly a novice at this though and hope someone with more knowledge chimes in.

 

[enjiatt]

Again the royal hunter did not work lol. I'm still looking for a platform easy to MOD and easy to build on. I modified my coil again and this one works pretty well. This temp was at 470. I'm confused how you guys can have your coils touching. When mine touch the performance is terrible!!!

@StonerSloth i think you are correct about that size making it more efficient. These are my first coils ever also Lol. It's pretty fun though. I want a 22mm platform so that it is easy to build onto.

http://imgur.com/a/mQ8jP

 

[PPN]

Hi Pipes, I'm reading the thread but maybe did you make a sort of tutorial for the Bulli?

I own a Evolution core which is collecting dust...is it possible to rebuild it like a bulli? (I remenber you mentionned something like that but can't find it...)

A mod is it necessary...? I own a sub-ohm VV/VW battery ...is it enough to begin?

Thanks to share your knowledge and experience Pipes!

 

[E0x]

Again the royal hunter did not work lol. I'm still looking for a platform easy to MOD and easy to build on. I modified my coil again and this one works pretty well. This temp was at 470. I'm confused how you guys can have your coils touching. When mine touch the performance is terrible!!!

@StonerSloth i think you are correct about that size making it more efficient. These are my first coils ever also Lol. It's pretty fun though. I want a 22mm platform so that it is easy to build onto.

http://imgur.com/a/mQ8jP

what do you mean with touching ?

here a picture of the coil i am building for my silver phoenix replicated

http://imgur.com/a/o8XC6

 

[Pipes]

I own a Evolution core which is collecting dust...is it possible to rebuild it like a bulli? (I remenber you mentionned something like that but can't find it...)

A mod is it necessary...? I own a sub-ohm VV/VW battery ...is it enough to begin?

Thanks to share your knowledge and experience Pipes!

Your very welcome. This is the post you are referring to I think. An even tighter coil is needed.

Although a VV /VW mod will work, no real control on combustion is present. TC is the way to go.

@E0x, we need to use Ti wire in Ni mode to gain an extra 100 degrees or so. If you used the same Ti coil in Ti mode the max temp would be the starting point for vapour production. A 650 degree max device might let you sneak by.

Coil touching itself is not good (and rude if done in public). Resistance will be continuously changing. Recipe for smoke for sure.

A note on power. I found just leaving the device on max is working fine. As long as you aren't going into dry wick protection, no need to crank it back. I have also noticed the quality of the battery is more of the limiting factor anyway. Unless you are using a really high output battery of over 30 amp continuous, you aren't going to see much over 40 watts anyway. The Evic firmware upgrade from 60 to 75 watts is likely never going to get realistically to the load. But sounds good...?
Over 60 watts and IMO, a 2 battery mod is needed. But who really needs over 60 watts.? No problem with heat up time here.

This thread is getting even more fun!!

 

[shocker92]

I am guessing it is bad for the coil to touch the walls of the camber as well. Trying to make a coil for this thing is a pain in the arse. For some reason I can't get the screen to sit right either.

 

[StonerSloth]

Alright, I have persevered and got myself a working coil that clocks in at 0.19 ohm. It is a single strand of 22awg Ti wire, about 5" long.

I picked up a coiling jig set and used the smallest diameter pin (1.5mm) to wrap four tight coils and then spread them out a little bit. Then, following @Pipes advice, I used a piece of split brass tubing (3/16" OD) and inserted the whole jig and coil. I wrapped four outer coils back down to the bottom and got myself an okay-looking coil. I meticulously arranged it and got it inside the chamber. It could be bigger, but it works great as a first attempt!

I am using an eVic mini in Ni mode at about 520° F. But still experimenting! There is definitely room for improvement but I can already see this having great everyday portable potential! The chamber is pretty big, it is truly instant-on, it is very discreet, has replaceable batteries, etc.

I am comparing it alongside an underdog (unfair?) and it does not taste as good as the dog, but it's a work in progress.

A few notes:

These Delrin drip tip adapters will work in a 14mm glass joint. Not a perfect fit, but definitely work and will support the Bulli + eVic Mini vertically in, say, a D020.

I use these Solo screens and they happen to fit perfectly inside the Bulli heating chamber with no cutting. Just pop them in and you are good to go. It is not as great as Pipes' screen since there is a little ledge where stuff can collect, but they are so effortless and easy to change!

Underdog stems fit right into the bulli chamber. You can use the underdog silicone o-rings to set the depth of the glass in the heating chamber.

Overall, it is really a great setup so far, but there is room for improvement. Thanks again @Pipes for your help and all the info!

 

[highnes]

Been vaping on this setup (different dripper and coil) for a month now after finding out about the tc compatibility - thanks so much for sharing the tech @Pipes. Can't wait to build this for friends and finally get them off combustion.

 

[Pipes]

I am guessing it is bad for the coil to touch the walls of the camber as well. Trying to make a coil for this thing is a pain in the arse. For some reason I can't get the screen to sit right either.

It sure can be. But after a while it gets much easier. @StonerSloth had a rough start and is getting a leash on it. In fact he's very close and going to nail it shortly.

Definitely touching the sides is a no no. Worth mentioning along this vein, when picking which terminal to connect the coil to, use the ground terminal for the outer coil leg and the center coil end to the positive post. Reason for this is a little added safety in case the outer coil does touch the side. If touches, at least there is more coil in circuit then if the outside is positive and almost shorting out the unit. Also, more likely to burn open the coil.

Fitting the screen is another pita for sure. I like the simplicity of @StonerSloth 's method. I use the 1/2" screen and carefully make a small lip around the circumference. Fit into the top of mid section and is kind of hit and miss. Once in and has a good grip, never really have to touch it anymore. Pretty much just blows off clean.

 

[E0x]

Alright, I have persevered and got myself a working coil that clocks in at 0.19 ohm. It is a single strand of 22awg Ti wire, about 5" long.

I picked up a coiling jig set and used the smallest diameter pin (1.5mm) to wrap four tight coils and then spread them out a little bit. Then, following @Pipes advice, I used a piece of split brass tubing (3/16" OD) and inserted the whole jig and coil. I wrapped four outer coils back down to the bottom and got myself an okay-looking coil. I meticulously arranged it and got it inside the chamber. It could be bigger, but it works great as a first attempt!

I am using an eVic mini in Ni mode at about 520° F. But still experimenting! There is definitely room for improvement but I can already see this having great everyday portable potential! The chamber is pretty big, it is truly instant-on, it is very discreet, has replaceable batteries, etc.

I am comparing it alongside an underdog (unfair?) and it does not taste as good as the dog, but it's a work in progress.

A few notes:

These Delrin drip tip adapters will work in a 14mm glass joint. Not a perfect fit, but definitely work and will support the Bulli + eVic Mini vertically in, say, a D020.

I use these Solo screens and they happen to fit perfectly inside the Bulli heating chamber with no cutting. Just pop them in and you are good to go. It is not as great as Pipes' screen since there is a little ledge where stuff can collect, but they are so effortless and easy to change!

Underdog stems fit right into the bulli chamber. You can use the underdog silicone o-rings to set the depth of the glass in the heating chamber.

Overall, it is really a great setup so far, but there is room for improvement. Thanks again @Pipes for your help and all the info!

care to share pictures ?

thanks

 

[shocker92]

I completely missed the split tubing part. Are you guys making the tubing yourself? I managed to squeeze a 0.14 ohm single coil but I think I need that sort of dual coil thing to make it work smoother.

 

[enjiatt]

I went ahead and ordered The kayfun mini 2.1 and it looks like a good building unit. I'm learning that using an RDA that screws on is going to be a little better because my setup has fallen a couple times.

@Pipes I think this platform is literaly going to be perfect. Everything looks like it just works with very little extra effort. I kind of want to try the "rocket v2 atomizer". It looks like a bigger version of the bulli. I feel it could be good for bigger sessions with friends, But with a bigger mod and more wire. It would be the bullis big brother.

@StonerSloth I already ordered the aluminum underdog stems, Do you think these would still work. Or should I just get the glass ones. I mean I still have my air stems SO i guess that could work too.

So i didnt know about pulsing before, I think i can now make that smaller version of the coil.

 

[StonerSloth]

@StonerSloth I already ordered the aluminum underdog stems, Do you think these would still work. Or should I just get the glass ones. I mean I still have my air stems SO i guess that could work too.

Sorry for the poor explanation - I was referring to the Underdog glass stems, which fit perfectly inside the Bulli chamber (they are about 1/2" OD.) Unfortunately, I don't think the stainless stems will work in this application - the diameter is way too small. The Air/Solo stem will not fit inside the Bulli chamber, but can be attached with a piece of silicone tubing to the top of the chamber if you want.


I also came across the Kayfun Mini 2.1 which does look to be a similar size as the Bulli. I was going to buy one or two as a lower-cost option, but after reading people's complaints about poor build quality, shitty threads, etc. I figured I'd stick with the Bulli's even though they are a little $$.

I completely missed the split tubing part. Are you guys making the tubing yourself? I managed to squeeze a 0.14 ohm single coil but I think I need that sort of dual coil thing to make it work smoother.

I couldn't find any split tubing at all. I just bought this grab bag of tubing scraps http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0006MZMHS/ and cut a slit down one side with a Dremel.

 

[Pipes]

So I made a couple video's to help those having a hard time with their coils.
No need for the slit tube as I found an easier method for you guys.
Just need a couple straws....

And for those having trouble mounting it....

That's .28 ohms hidden under the "click to play" which is what that 8" coil came out as.

Enjoy!

 

[PPN]

Hi Pipes, somebody posted in the Yocan Evolve thread, he claimed the Ti wires oxidize if used red hot....he prefers a SS wire...any thought about this topic?

 

[Pipes]

Very true, Titanium will oxidize at 1200 degrees, which is very red hot. At 600-650 degrees we're running here, there is no problem. A reason I do not recommend running in power mode as easy to goof up. TC ONLY.
Using SS has caught my interest but decided to pass as you will lose accuracy in temperature controlling. The co-efficient for SS is less than half that of Ti which in turn is haft that of Nickle. Accuracy is critical for our use here whereas it's not so important for ecig users. Ideally using Nickle would be preferable but the driving device needs to have a higher upper temperature limit.
Posted this graph a couple pages back. The steeper curve the easier for the device to keep the temperature. All three metals start at room temp and .12 ohms. SS changes very little as temperature increases.

This is why Nickle was the initial metal used and then as marketing and hype took hold the next closest metals with usable co-efficients started coming to market.
At least that's how I see it.

 

[E0x]

@Pipes what wire is that ? it look like very thick.

thanks

 

[Pipes]

AWG 22 Ti.

 

[qwarx]

First of all thank you Pipes and the many for sharing all your work on this fantastic project.
I've found around 280-310°C the best temperature range for my 0.15 Ohm Ti coil in Ti mode.
I was wondering if anyone has found a good way of connecting the rig to a water pipe, ideally some sort of drip-tip adapter.

 

[StonerSloth]

First of all thank you Pipes and the many for sharing all your work on this fantastic project.
I've found around 280-310°C the best temperature range for my 0.15 Ohm Ti coil in Ti mode.
I was wondering if anyone has found a good way of connecting the rig to a water pipe, ideally some sort of drip-tip adapter.

This drip tip adapter does a pretty good job of mating with a 14mm female joint, but it is not perfect. It will support the Bulli + mod vertically - but probably not at an angle. Also makes a decent mouthpiece.

I have actually had the most success using a short Underdog GonG, which the Bulli chamber slips right over. I am actually packing the UD stem instead of the Bulli chamber, which keeps the Bulli chamber a lot cleaner! Essentially just using the Bulli + chamber as a heat source in place of the underdog...

Regardless of bowl/chamber/drip tip setup, I find that my Bulli works a lot better and cooks the load a lot more evenly when it's upside down... Which is unfortunate since I really want to use it on the go! Are you guys packing your chambers full? When my chamber is full and I use it upright, the bottom of my load is very dark and the top stays green! If I do the same but use it upside down, the load cooks perfectly!