BabyFacedFinster
Anything worth doing, is worth overdoing.
Is there a way to load arctic fox on a pico 75 when you only have a chromebook? or an iphone?
Thanks
Thanks
Divine Tribe atty's
- Thread starter divinetribe
- Start date
lazylathe
Almost there...
It should work with your Chromebook.
Just download it, load the firmware via the updater and you should be good to go.
The Pico you have, is it USB C or the regular micro USB?
BabyFacedFinster
Anything worth doing, is worth overdoing.
It says its not compatable with a system that runs chrome OS.
lazylathe
Almost there...
Seems it is a windows or Mac only software. Chrome OS is its own entity.
BabyFacedFinster
Anything worth doing, is worth overdoing.
If there is a mac version, does that mean you could somehow use an iphone to load the software?
bizwaxzion
Enigmatic Cannabist
No, MacOS and IOS are different operating systems. I just reloaded my old mods with the latest AF for use with the V5. I don't have a windows based computer anymore - but I was able to get the tools to run in a windows VM on my mac. I've seen some google hits that suggest a chromebook will run VirtualBox, so depending on your technical skills, you could install VirtualBox and then create a windows VM to run the tools.
BabyFacedFinster
Anything worth doing, is worth overdoing.
Thanks for the suggestions guys. I'm just not that computer savvy. I might wait to see what deal Matt might have on a mod and V5 combo when they start selling.
When the time comes, I might ask Matt if he could setup the AF on a newly purchased mod. Is the new eleaf Rim C the best option for a single battery mod with the incoming V5?
When the time comes, I might ask Matt if he could setup the AF on a newly purchased mod. Is the new eleaf Rim C the best option for a single battery mod with the incoming V5?
iammyself
Well-Known Member
I got the Rim-C, and kind of wish I didn't now. I was able to get Arctic Fox loaded on it. I am very computer savvy, and it was a chore with the Rim-C. The wattage mode to clean the donut doesn't work with AF on the Rim-C, at least for me. Other than the difficulty of getting AF on it, and not being able to clean with wattage mode, the Rim-C has worked great with the V4.
I never did try it without AF though, I didn't want a 10 second limit on my hits. As I understand it, the Rim-C with the stock firmware can only fire for 10 seconds when you hold the button down, and can't auto-fire at all. That's why I put AF on mine, and have the auto-fire set to 60 seconds.
RustyOldNail
SEARCH for the treasure...
zor
Well-Known Member
I clean them and the cap regularly but you know, it never occurred to me to lube the o-rings. Thanks!
Yep!
oldfool
Well-Known Member
Peanut oil? Or saliva?
Went a little smaller with these. Had to really stretch them.
Fairly easy on/off, not for pocket carry.
RustyOldNail
SEARCH for the treasure...
O-Ring lubing....
I would often use a drop of PG, from ECig mixing, but mineral oil is good too, available everywhere. When I don’t plan to use a device for awhile, I remove items, extends o-ring life a bit, and no surprise STICKING.
I would often use a drop of PG, from ECig mixing, but mineral oil is good too, available everywhere. When I don’t plan to use a device for awhile, I remove items, extends o-ring life a bit, and no surprise STICKING.
lazylathe
Almost there...
@oldfool 
Whatever takes your fancy but something non toxic and oily would work well.
Even a little vaseline jelly goes a long way or chapstick if you have that handy.
So many options!
@RustyOldNail
Good tip about removing the o-rings when not in use!
It will keep them at their original diameter for longer as well.
Back when Glass Symphony was around, he sold a tube of lube. All natural oils in a stick form.
That is what I use until it ends.
Whatever takes your fancy but something non toxic and oily would work well.
Even a little vaseline jelly goes a long way or chapstick if you have that handy.
So many options!
@RustyOldNail
Good tip about removing the o-rings when not in use!
It will keep them at their original diameter for longer as well.
Back when Glass Symphony was around, he sold a tube of lube. All natural oils in a stick form.
That is what I use until it ends.
OCT v5 UPDATE
Divine Tribe News
The V5 will be here at the end of Oct for prototype customers and the middle of Nov 2021 for people who have ask to be put on the wait list.. The v5 will most likely not be available on the site, so email to be put on the waiting list.
for prototype customers ( who already have a v5) please email me now to let me know if your address is the same and if you received the knurled base or the older smooth jet stream base. (We have a spread sheet and our making notes ) If we do not get your email we will email you or text if needed to verify. To the people that ordered from herb cafe or Rec Vape UK they will be supplied with the updated parts as well for their proto customers, so email them to verify address is the same.
2nd shipment parts are lagging and i am a few days away from my manufacture getting a small batch of 1000 heaters to cover the prototype customers, I am also waiting on the all glass tops (we have two manufactures working on these now) we hope to have these around the same time as the heaters.
To make a long story short we are hoping to be mailing these final updated parts to our prototype customers in 10 to 15 days
What are you getting :
- All glass thick vortex top
- two new larger side and bottom heated cups (settings will need to be adjusted)
- Softer copper screws
- New designed spacer
- New designed Metal Window top
- Knurled base if you got the older smooth Jet Stream Base
- video of updated parts
Improvaper
Well-Known Member
Here's a little demo of the v5 TCR 200 @ 400°
lazylathe
Almost there...
Here's a little demo of the v5 TCR 200 @ 400°
I am at TCR 170 and 420F.
Apparently the next V5 heater will need a TCR value of 200 plus since it is a stronger heater.
OF
Well-Known Member
I don't think so. The TCR value is based on the material used in the heater, not the total power. Typical metals have maybe 1/3% increase in resistance per degree C rise. To make it more confusing the values we enter are multiplied PPM (Parts per Million) such that 170 really means 1700 PPM, .17%. We just save a digit on the display.
If we want to go to say 200C, that's a 180C rise over a 20C cold temperature. Multiply that 180 by the .17% per degree and get a 30.6% rise, .650 ohms, assuming .500 to start. At that point the metal will be at 200C, no matter what the power.
So, if Matt uses the same material (which seems logical....) we need the same TCR value and target temperature. The max power number might change, but not TCR.
Regards to all.
OF
lazylathe
Almost there...
I was told this directly from the manufacturer...
I am clueless as to how a mod actually works and just try different settings until I find one that works best for me.
If you check the Divine Tribe website, he has the recommended settings there.
"For settings i have a arctic fox profile i use at 40sec and then it turns off, TCR is 180 using 33w to 36w to get to 490f to 510f, email me for latest config"
And from email communication with Matt:
"For the new heaters i have been using My pico with the prototype firmware that has auto fire
it definitely takes a couple more watts more to power it up and the TCR I have set it to 200"
OF
Well-Known Member
Thanks, I actually 'caught' his comments and have been using the 180/390F formula currently. And, as I said, the mod multiples the two values and uses there product to set the real target temperature. You can raise (or lower) either, although we want the temperature make sense so we 'tweak' the TCR value. Matt is taking about a new cup and different mod with 'prototype' software and finding a new value by the same 'cut and try' process we all use anyway.
This is why I suspect the OP (which would be you...) is using 170 (about 5% lower) and 420 (the same percentage higher) so the product remains the same. FWIW we collectively 'fished' out 170 for the V2s. A value I still use in mine years later. I suspect the actual element materials are the same as used in V5?
We 'tweak' whatever we use until we get the results we want. As individuals. What settings others use are at best guidelines?
Regards,
OF