Divine Tribe atty's

FMSQ

FMSQ

Dab Scientist here seeking knowledge
I have been trying different settings for temperature control on my Quest. Lots of fun. So easy to clean after each 'test'.

Reddit user MAXVapor710 had custom settings ( TCR 225 / 35 watts / around 530°F ) mentioned in this comment:
https://www.reddit.com/r/DivineTribeVaporizers/comments/7t1xus/qq_coils_glowing_red/dtalurx/

Using these settings as a guide, on my DNA75C I am now using: TCR 225 / 33.5watts / 540°F and getting good results.
The heat seems to climb closer to the set temperature and overshoot it much less than my old settings ( Ni mode 310-320°F and 44-45 watts ).

TC seems to work much better with the custom TCR setting versus using Ni mode and controlling the temp with the fire button.

Both work well, and I think it is just personal preference to see what works best.

I have also learned to gently tilt and swirl the Quest as I am pulling on it to stir the melted concentrate. Imagine putting a pat of butter on a hot pan and tilting the pan in a circular motion so the butter coats all of the pan.

imgur photo album


rRwznpJ.jpg
 
Last edited:
2clicker

2clicker

Observer
well im official... ive got a V3 headed my way. looking forward to figuring it out.

question about the leads on the donuts, and my apologies if this has been covered, but why are the leads so delicate? why not use a more rigid material for the leads?
 
Bad Ocelot

Bad Ocelot

Well-Known Member
Don't think I've ever had a problem with the V3 leads. You don't want anything too rigid for that, as given the diameter & length it would be really easy to break. I think some people might've had issues with squishing the leads too hard with the post screws, but this is easily avoided, and again not something I recall experiencing.
 
2clicker

2clicker

Observer
Bad Ocelot said:
Don't think I've ever had a problem with the V3 leads. You don't want anything too rigid for that, as given the diameter & length it would be really easy to break. I think some people might've had issues with squishing the leads too hard with the post screws, but this is easily avoided, and again not something I recall experiencing.
Click to expand...

i ask because the website says they are delicate and can break easily. why not use a more rigid wire than can be bent over and over before it comes close to breaking? Ti and 316L come to mind.

i imagine it has something to do with TC? why not use a SS trace inside the ceramic and use strong SS leads? then the SS setting on mods could be used if desired. you can smash SS wire over and over and it wont break. after enough bending sure it would, but in regards to installing in this device, it would last forever.

again i dont have my V3 yet, but from what ive read one needs to be gentle with the leads. just curious as to why.
 
2clicker,
Bad Ocelot

Bad Ocelot

Well-Known Member
I'm not sure how people are breaking them. I bought 3 v3s when they first came out & still have all but one of the original donuts. Even with having wrenched a few out of the ceramic cups after letting the lead holes get goopier than I should've. I wouldn't describe them as fragile.
 
PandaLee

PandaLee

Well-Known Member
So over 3 weeks now with the QQ and no technical problems and I'm a very non-technical person, so I feel great.

My biggest issue is damn saliva. Never remember having such an issue, but this QQ has me drooling like a fool towards the end of my big initial hit. I've ruined 3 good sessions and came close to ruining many more! Everything will be going well, then splash and sizzle, bubbling everywhere and overflowing and I'm rushing to turn it upside down over something I can let it spill onto!
 
FMSQ

FMSQ

Dab Scientist here seeking knowledge
Last edited:
2clicker

2clicker

Observer
ok i got my V3 yesterday and got to try it last night. i gotta say im a bit disappointed so far. i could not get my evic or my DNA device to consistently TC this donut. set them both to the nickel TC setting to at least give it a try before programming other TCR values. sometimes it worked and others it wouldnt regulate. the joyetech chip just pops into wattage mode and the DNA chip says “off”, in TC, of which is basically it being it wattage mode. on the DNA chip you could see the ohms just shooting up. i dont get this at all.

i tried the donut that came installed first. i rebuilt it three times wondering if there was a loose lead or something. again i could get it to work for a second and then back to power mode. so then i rebuilt it with another donut... same story. i cannot figure it out. V3 is screwed onto the mod firmly so the pin is making solid contact.

also upon firing both donuts at first i got a ceramic smell and taste. as well as every dab after the first fire. are we supposed to do some sort of high temp burn in with the donuts? or will this smell/taste go away after some use?

my mods also both got pretty warm when doing back to back dabs. warmer than id like. and i dont want to run a heat sink because the V3 is already taller than id like it. any taller will look odd and fit in my pocket funny. so i will def be attempting to mount a donut/cup into other attys. i was successful with mounting a donut/cup in my Mesh Pro rda. and when the TC is working the combo is working very well. because the donut/cup is only contacting the “posts” and not the body of the rda... this resulted in a much cooler atty and in turn a cooler mod. still tho... same results as the donut mounted in the V3 in regard to TC. i do like the look of the V3 and do like its construction for the most part.

now if i could just figure out how to consistently TC these donuts. i think ill need to weed through the pages here. if anyone would care to reach out to me in PM with any obvious issues they see with my first go please do. in an attempt to not cluster up this thread with the same info.

oh one more thing... i think the mods need to break this thread down into individual threads for each DT offering. would make searching and finding info for each device easier. i mean arizer has a thread for each device. as does W9 and so on. idk makes sense to me.
 
OF

OF

Well-Known Member
2clicker said:
sometimes it worked and others it wouldnt regulate. the joyetech chip just pops into wattage mode and the DNA chip says “off”, in TC, of which is basically it being it wattage mode. on the DNA chip you could see the ohms just shooting up. i dont get this at all.

i cannot figure it out.

my mods also both got pretty warm when doing back to back dabs. warmer than id like.

now if i could just figure out how to consistently TC these donuts. i think ill need to weed through the pages here.
Click to expand...

I think you know the issue, poor contact somewhere? You even said "you could see the ohms just shooting up", you can't hardly blame the poor machine for tilting out when that happens. It's not limited here I've been fighting the same deal (jumping to power mode) with QQ and think I've finally got it licked. My key indication is the resistance there is lower by a bit than it ever was before I found and corrected the dicey connection and is stable. It doesn't take much wrong to add significant resistance when the values are so low (and currents so high) to start with. You know it's confined to the V3 (shows the same on both mods) and not something your normally address with rebuilds.

The heating is probably internal more than conducted. You're asking a lot more than what it was designed for (e-cig use) when you go to "doing back to back dabs". I'd start by removing any covers and even swapping brands of 18650s (looking for lowest Ri and therefore lowest self heating there), but the key might end up being slowing down some or swapping mods so the first can cool?

By all means read this thread, clear back to V2 when this connection issue first came up. The guys who rebuild serious "RDAs" and other e-cigs have some useful insight, you might want to haunt a couple of their Forums, I picked up a lot that way. Bottom line is you have a connection problem, when it changes (often under heating from use) even a tiny bit it's going to want to 'jump out' rather than chase that fault and shove the Voltage through the roof trying to keep TC on track. Look for your problem there, not with any individual doughnut (they all behave the same?) or mods (likewise).

My new advice is to pay strict attention to the indicated resistance as you fiddle. You want the lowest (stable) reading possible I think.

Good luck with it, IMO it's worth the effort to sort it out. Then, when you get really brave, you can face the mighty QQ?

OF
 
2clicker

2clicker

Observer
OF said:
I think you know the issue, poor contact somewhere? You even said "you could see the ohms just shooting up", you can't hardly blame the poor machine for tilting out when that happens. It's not limited here I've been fighting the same deal (jumping to power mode) with QQ and think I've finally got it licked. My key indication is the resistance there is lower by a bit than it ever was before I found and corrected the dicey connection and is stable. It doesn't take much wrong to add significant resistance when the values are so low (and currents so high) to start with. You know it's confined to the V3 (shows the same on both mods) and not something your normally address with rebuilds.

The heating is probably internal more than conducted. You're asking a lot more than what it was designed for (e-cig use) when you go to "doing back to back dabs". I'd start by removing any covers and even swapping brands of 18650s (looking for lowest Ri and therefore lowest self heating there), but the key might end up being slowing down some or swapping mods so the first can cool?

By all means read this thread, clear back to V2 when this connection issue first came up. The guys who rebuild serious "RDAs" and other e-cigs have some useful insight, you might want to haunt a couple of their Forums, I picked up a lot that way. Bottom line is you have a connection problem, when it changes (often under heating from use) even a tiny bit it's going to want to 'jump out' rather than chase that fault and shove the Voltage through the roof trying to keep TC on track. Look for your problem there, not with any individual doughnut (they all behave the same?) or mods (likewise).

My new advice is to pay strict attention to the indicated resistance as you fiddle. You want the lowest (stable) reading possible I think.

Good luck with it, IMO it's worth the effort to sort it out. Then, when you get really brave, you can face the mighty QQ?

OF
Click to expand...

i agree it must be a connection issue, but ive rebuilt it multiple times and have a donut/cup installed in another atty and get the same results... im stumped. same story on two dif chips and attys. i can check the positive pin on the V3 i suppose, but the pin was already pretty far up in the 510 threading. so far i was originally concerned it may not make contact at all. if i screw it in more that just makes it worse. the connection on the Mesh Pro was solid all around. ill keep testing.

yeah im in a couple of dif ecig forums. they offer tons.

as for the QQ... it looks cool, but my needs are for a device that can be used on the go and discreetly if needed. the QQ does not provide this from what i gather. i need a more “on demand” dab. the QQ appears, at least at this point, that is takes longer to heat up than id like in an on the go device. would be nice at home, but then id just use an e-nail. i also have a hard time determining a difference between a dab off of quartz and a dab off of ceramic. both taste really good to me. so i feel the donut is the better option for me.

and that reminds me of something else about the donuts... keeping the dab on the donut. someone mentioned when the oil falls off that they scoop it back up and on there, but i don’t see how thats possible without disassembling it. there is no way to scoop up what flows uder the donut. not a big deal i suppose.

anyway ideally im running my V3 on my DNA75 device. if anyone using a DNA chip with their donuts can reach out id greatly appreaciate it.
 
2clicker,
2clicker

2clicker

Observer
UPDATE: i am very pleased to say that when i got home from work yesterday i put the V3 on my DNA device and it has been working perfectly since. its like the issue above never happened at all. and i did nothing different. i use quality LG and samsung cells, but the same brown LG was used every time with this V3. same mod. same atty/donut. must have been a connection issue somewhere, but im good about identifying bad connectionsz. idk. strange indeed.

anyway, i am really enjoying the V3 so far. i am still getting an odd taste though, but its not off putting and im getting plenty of flavor. also from everything ive read there is no reason to be concerned with material safety here so im ok with it. what i do really like is how easily cleaned it is after each use, but i assume that nee donut bright white will never be achieved again? lol
 
bizwaxzion

bizwaxzion

Enigmatic Cannabist
You can get them back to "new" white a couple ways. Burn off with the mod (higher temp or wattage mode) which I'm not too fond of or with a torch while disassembled. I've been using the same donut for about 6 months now. I q-tip after every 5-10 loads and disassemble and torch the donut and cup every 6-8 weeks and make sure there's no leakage into the base. I will occasionally hit it upside down which helps with the stuff under the donut and I cover one intake and blow backward through the other (with a bit of heat) when q-tipping to help soak up extra reclaim. A paper towel rolled like a ciggarette is also great for soaking up reclaim (better than q-tip actually). I've found (with a thermocouple) that the donut is hotter in some areas than others and those are the spots that seem to get darker first.
 
nosmoking

nosmoking

Just so Dab HAppy!
StickyShisha said:
somebody needs to make a dart loader mouthpiece to fit on my v2.5/2.7
Click to expand...
I had one on my DTV3 that I modified to use a Terra2 cup. All I did was take a dart from the Puffco Plus and put a piece of silicone tubing around it. I then push the splash gaurd out of the DTV3 mouthpiece and installed the dart wrapped in silicone into the mouthpiece where the splash guard was. The dart acted as a splash gaurd and fit snug. It worked really well actually. You can get a 3 pack of the darts for like $10. Check your LHS that sells Puffco products as I bet they stock them.
 
PPN

PPN

Volute of Vapor
This is just a short post to mention I received a QQ a week ago but wasn't able to use it since I was too sick... until a few days ago! I'm very pleased with the vapor quality, taste like a quartz enail and vapor is pretty smooth if you don't lean on the switch too much. Although it's not usable in public (not a big concern for me) and, since it's full glass/quartz, you'll have to carry it carefully. It drains battery like anything seen before by me, with my pretty used VTC4 I get a "weak battery" alert after 2 dabs on a fully charged battery (on a evic mini).

And there is definitively a learning curve, you have to get the cup at temp, hit it and think to release the switch (especially in power mode) to avoid to overheat (and cough... and ruin your load..). But when everything is right you get very unique hits in a such small design!

I have to send a mail to Matt for the incoming improvements.
 
K

kernal6500

Well-Known Member
PPN said:
This is just a short post to mention I received a QQ a week ago but wasn't able to use it since I was too sick... until a few days ago! I'm very pleased with the vapor quality, taste like a quartz enail and vapor is pretty smooth if you don't lean on the switch too much. Although it's not usable in public (not a big concern for me) and, since it's full glass/quartz, you'll have to carry it carefully. It drains battery like anything seen before by me, with my pretty used VTC4 I get a "weak battery" alert after 2 dabs on a fully charged battery (on a evic mini).

And there is definitively a learning curve, you have to get the cup at temp, hit it and think to release the switch (especially in power mode) to avoid to overheat (and cough... and ruin your load..). But when everything is right you get very unique hits in a such


I have to send a mail to Matt for the incoming improvements.
Click to expand...

Looking forward to the improvements
 
Last edited:
kernal6500,
  • Like
Reactions: graydeh1
OF

OF

Well-Known Member
PPN said:
It drains battery like anything seen before by me, with my pretty used VTC4 I get a "weak battery" alert after 2 dabs on a fully charged battery (on a evic mini).

And there is definitively a learning curve, you have to get the cup at temp, hit it and think to release the switch (especially in power mode) to avoid to overheat (and cough... and ruin your load..). But when everything is right you get very unique hits in a such small design!
Click to expand...

You sure called that 'really hard on battery life' right. 55 Watts, where I'm running, pushes a single 18650 mighty hard. Harder than most 'garden variety' ones can take. To even get started you need a high current version. 55 Watts to the load means something like 65 from the battery (the other ten Watts is what makes the battery/mod heat in use. So we're talking about 20 Amps, give or take, when things are fresh. And, remember, this is not the same 20 Amps the e-cig guys use since they 'only' heat a few seconds per hit. I was unable to find any 18650s with believable 30 Amp continuous ratings. Lots of claims but no hard data? Anyone know of a real one? It could give the little mods a bowl or two more?

It will work, and work well, but takes attention to detail. I think the best call for me (and I suspect most guys) will be a two cell mod. I'm using my Cuboid which I'd given up on as being too heavy a while back. I uses a pair in series (7.2 nominal not 3.6) so each cells 'carries half the load'. It's a 150 Watt mod, it's loafing along to give me 55 of that. Half a dozen loads brought me down to 50%, where I recharged. I've ordered a VTC Dual which hopefully will work as well, be a little lighter and a 'better' aspect ratio (narrow and deep).

One thing sure, QQ can bring home the goods, it's worth the effort to treat it right......

OF
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top Bottom