tharealmclovin
Well-Known Member
Am anyone direct me to the ideal setting for a evic vtc mini. I thought I remember tcr 190 at 20w 450f
Divine Tribe atty's
- Thread starter divinetribe
- Start date
looney2nz
Research Geek, Mad Scientist
most folks are using a TCR of 245, 20W 430F (I have mine set to 23W and TCR of 280 with the 13mm donut, and not far different for the 10mm)
Hi! I was googling around to set up the Pico with the DV3 and came across this.
Very new to this, I've referred to this guide but can you clarify on your settings? What's m? The temperature setting? And do you mean you change the wattage to dry burn / clean the coil? And what do you mean by dialing up 390F? Is that to clean?
Thanks for your help!
OF
Well-Known Member
m is the TCR value used to measure the temperature. 245 is really 2450 ppm (Parts Per Million), same as .245% per degree C of change. It tells Pico to expect the resistance to rise to that number times the number of degrees you've requested (say something like 175 degrees rise from 20C (cold) to 200C (hot).
For the large doughnut, the change is smaller per degree, more like .170% (m=170).
You enter those m values into the internal tables on Pico (instructions with the unit).
No, I typically call for 390F, many like it a bit hotter. That temperature setting is the main setting on the display when working normally. You watch the temperature run up as it heats.
Yes, you remove Temperature Control (change modes or raise the setting to something like 600F) and increase the power to clean (carefully). It takes a steady hand to get it hot enough to clean (dull glow) briefly and going too far and blowing the doughnut.......lucky it comes with spares.
Running the temperature setting up to 390F. Or something like 190C if you're a metric type? You can do a fine tune ('tweak') by changing the temperature say 10 degrees at a time.
Cleaning is 'open loop', you have to keep the temperature in control as you burn it clean. No automatic temperature regulation, just a fixed power.
You need to make (and to some extent understand) all those values (m, power, and temperature) to get it to work. They interact with each other, all are necessary to make good vapor. Cleaning is a different matter.
You're welcome, but you really should set some time aside to read some of this thread. V3 isn't all that old, looks like I ordered my first one Sept. 15 of last year, it's happened since then.
Regards.
OF
Loc_dog666
Member
Hey guys. I ordered DC generation 2 dry herb atomizer and ive been looking for some initial settings for vtc mini. Can anyone share their numbers or atleast point me in the right direction?
TiA!
VAPE ON!
TiA!
VAPE ON!
OF
Well-Known Member
Please check the top of this page for exactly this discussion. You know, like my post immediately above yours?????
Thanks.
OF
Loc_dog666
Member
OF
Well-Known Member
Sorry for not being clear enough, the numbers for the Gen 2 are at the top of the page (m=245, P=24W, T=390F in my case). My post above yours tries to explain what that means........
OF
Edit: FWIW the numbers for V3 are similar but differ in important respects. For the big doughnut, the power and temperature are fine but the TCR number should be lower. I'm using m=170 right now with results I like.
The smaller doughnut is fine at m=245 but needs the power reduced to 12 Watts or a bit more (some of mine I run at 12.5 for a bit more aggressive heat up.
Another point worth mentioning is the mod. I think Gen 2 has a serious advantage with the eVic units like Basic, Mini, Dual, Cuboid and so on that can use the myevic software. Among other features is the ability to run the timeout out to 25 seconds, plenty long enough to get to temperature and start making vapor. Cycling the button then gives you half a minute to enjoy the hit on autopilot.
I'm not sure who's fault the S/W bit is, I think @KeroZen? It's the kind of stuff he'd do, bring it up and all........
Regards to all,
OF
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Loc_dog666
Member
OF
Well-Known Member
Sir you have answered my question in totalI bow to you and your knowledge
Yeah? Just remember your current gratitude when you get my bill........
Anyway, welcome to the Forum. "Brave" choice with Gen 2 I think, but good times await when you get it figured out. Remember, it's conduction. That means contact to transfer heat. Medium to fine grind and moderate to firm pack will probably get you pointed downstream at least. And remember, new vapor can only be made so fast, sucking harder won't help.
Please let us know how it works out for you, this is virgin territory.......we're following guess that work out?
OF
Bad Ocelot
Well-Known Member
Finally got a gen 2 & been toying with it on my RX200. Using it on the RX mini works fine as well but kills the battery fairly quickly. Glad I'm getting more use out of that giant mod now though, ha.
Been using TCR=334-342; 350-400F & getting decent results. Not a lot of visible vapor but gets the job done. Flavor is similar to the Ascent, which I'm also a fan of. One thing I've been thinking about but haven't tried yet is using glass flowers like I & many others do in the Ascent. They retain heat & serve as a spacer so you can get a session out of a smaller amount of herb. Anyone tried this with the gen 2 yet? Being that they're both ceramic conduction vapes, it seems this should work well. Hopefully I'll try it out this weekend.
One slight issue I've run into with the gen 2 is the ceramic housing becoming loose after a heating cycle or two. Not a major problem but a little irritating when it jiggles around on the mod.
Been using TCR=334-342; 350-400F & getting decent results. Not a lot of visible vapor but gets the job done. Flavor is similar to the Ascent, which I'm also a fan of. One thing I've been thinking about but haven't tried yet is using glass flowers like I & many others do in the Ascent. They retain heat & serve as a spacer so you can get a session out of a smaller amount of herb. Anyone tried this with the gen 2 yet? Being that they're both ceramic conduction vapes, it seems this should work well. Hopefully I'll try it out this weekend.
One slight issue I've run into with the gen 2 is the ceramic housing becoming loose after a heating cycle or two. Not a major problem but a little irritating when it jiggles around on the mod.
clearlight
Well-Known Member
Pretty sure re-tightening the screws after the unit warms up is what caused two of the holes to crack on my very first V3 base. They crack when it cools back down. I quit doing that since and have not had any more issues from several other bases here. It's not ideal but I just let em jiggle. Once they cool back down, they're tight again.
Been using the v3 a ton lately, messing with a friends VTC Mini and my Evic Basic. I like the fire button on the VTC, but the winner in my book is definitely the Evic Basic. This setup is so compact, it's perfect for everyday carry. I carry a little slab of concentrate in my wallet on parchment, with a toothpick under one of the folds and have everything I need in a very minimal amount of space needed.
This Evic basic really is not great for multiple people, but for one or two it's perfect. Depends on tolerance though of course. I still want to get something with an 18650 for extended group sessions, probably a Pico or Smok Al85, though the 1500 mah in the Basic is pretty sufficient for me. I'll probably order the dry herb atomizer when I get a 18650 mod.
I still feel like this is the best pen on the market, but it will be a lot better with a crucible cup so concentrate doesn't run. I'm excited for the future of this company, I know vapor perfection is not far away.
This Evic basic really is not great for multiple people, but for one or two it's perfect. Depends on tolerance though of course. I still want to get something with an 18650 for extended group sessions, probably a Pico or Smok Al85, though the 1500 mah in the Basic is pretty sufficient for me. I'll probably order the dry herb atomizer when I get a 18650 mod.
I still feel like this is the best pen on the market, but it will be a lot better with a crucible cup so concentrate doesn't run. I'm excited for the future of this company, I know vapor perfection is not far away.
Vape Donkey 650
All vape, no smoke please.
Hey all my fellow donut tribe members...
After having used this firmware for several weeks, on several mods, now, after having it introduced to us by @KeroZen, @Pipes, and @OF, I want to give everyone my review / report of the myevic 3rd party firmware. It is compatible with most joyetech / reuleaux mods (no eleafs yet)
My impression: for donut vapers who seek a more stable temp control function, and like being able to customize their mods as much as possible and view all sorts of info and stats, the myevic is a winner, and highly recommended
It is still pretty user-friendly and it's look is not far-removed from the stock firmware, but it allows joyetech vapers to fine-tune their vape experience and gain some features usually found on more high-end mod chipsets.
Here's whats to like:
With the myevic, using the same tcr / watt / temp settings, and the "stock" or "sweet" algo, a significantly more stable temp range can be observed and experienced. At it's best, the "standard deviation" of temp oscillations seems to be 7, or 5 degrees or less! Temp bouncing 10F or more is seen sometimes, but much less than stock. Occasionally, wild swings of 100 degrees or more is observed, but it is so quick and random, without any corresponding spike in vape quality, that I must attribute that to a measurement error or signal noise, as @OF hinted at.
Because I can look at my screen when vaping with my glass/silicon adapters through my rig, I can confirm that the temp stability is not just theoretical. Looking at the vape stream through my glass gear, I see a smooth, consistent stream of vapor, where I would usually see spikes before, and even more with the eleaf picos.
Clearly a case of signal noise or poor contact, causing me to look into this more closely 
Also, less masking! No more "temp protection" when your donut heats up, as it inevitably should. Instead of hiding how overly hot your donut it, it tells you! If you dial in 390F, and the heat swings to 393, or 401F in the course of vaping, the screen tells you!
This is good stuff.
You also have 3 battery display options: just a bar, or bar with charge %, or bar with voltage, which also changes in real-time when vaping.
Coil resistance down to the thousandths, with real-time coil measurement and real-time battery voltage meter, and alternate font, on one of my donut-tank evic basics. Besides that, looks like stock, right?
You can set temps in increments of 5F / 1C, instead of only 10F as before, and the finer resolution of temps and corresponding +/- in vapor production is noticeable
You can manually input/adjust coil resistance, if you choose, since any given / initial measurement of the donut can be wrong at times, and if you know it's off, you can correct this. I think dialing in the most accurate base coil Ω is important for your TC accuracy.
Coil resolution is displayed down to the thousandths of an Ω now (0.001) not just hundredths as with stock.
You can set the 10-second protection higher, up to 25 seconds, so you don't have to cycle the button for puffs longer than 10 seconds. Quite useful for the DC herb atty, or the long-lunged, like Steven
Also has lots of features for the clock, logo, display, screen saver, etc, but I'm not as interested in that stuff.
What's not to like?
I guess there has to be something?
Not much really. The fact that it doesn't come on your mod already, and you have to download it and set it up?
I guess if I had to say something, it has a "PID" algorithm mode which probably shouldn't be used unless you really know what you're doing. I suppose in an extreme case, you can cause your mod to blow up in your face if you put VERY wrong settings in there? So don't use PID mode then
It doesn't work for any eleaf mods....yet.
This has got me wanting to look into the arcticfox software, which does work for eleafs 
Anyways...... if you're a TC / info nerd like me, go get the myevic already. Ok?
After having used this firmware for several weeks, on several mods, now, after having it introduced to us by @KeroZen, @Pipes, and @OF, I want to give everyone my review / report of the myevic 3rd party firmware. It is compatible with most joyetech / reuleaux mods (no eleafs yet)
My impression: for donut vapers who seek a more stable temp control function, and like being able to customize their mods as much as possible and view all sorts of info and stats, the myevic is a winner, and highly recommended
It is still pretty user-friendly and it's look is not far-removed from the stock firmware, but it allows joyetech vapers to fine-tune their vape experience and gain some features usually found on more high-end mod chipsets.Here's whats to like:
- better temperature stability!
With the myevic, using the same tcr / watt / temp settings, and the "stock" or "sweet" algo, a significantly more stable temp range can be observed and experienced. At it's best, the "standard deviation" of temp oscillations seems to be 7, or 5 degrees or less! Temp bouncing 10F or more is seen sometimes, but much less than stock. Occasionally, wild swings of 100 degrees or more is observed, but it is so quick and random, without any corresponding spike in vape quality, that I must attribute that to a measurement error or signal noise, as @OF hinted at.
Because I can look at my screen when vaping with my glass/silicon adapters through my rig, I can confirm that the temp stability is not just theoretical. Looking at the vape stream through my glass gear, I see a smooth, consistent stream of vapor, where I would usually see spikes before, and even more with the eleaf picos.
- Lots of info!
Clearly a case of signal noise or poor contact, causing me to look into this more closely Also, less masking! No more "temp protection" when your donut heats up, as it inevitably should. Instead of hiding how overly hot your donut it, it tells you! If you dial in 390F, and the heat swings to 393, or 401F in the course of vaping, the screen tells you!
This is good stuff.You also have 3 battery display options: just a bar, or bar with charge %, or bar with voltage, which also changes in real-time when vaping.
Coil resistance down to the thousandths, with real-time coil measurement and real-time battery voltage meter, and alternate font, on one of my donut-tank evic basics. Besides that, looks like stock, right?
- More precision / features
You can set temps in increments of 5F / 1C, instead of only 10F as before, and the finer resolution of temps and corresponding +/- in vapor production is noticeable
You can manually input/adjust coil resistance, if you choose, since any given / initial measurement of the donut can be wrong at times, and if you know it's off, you can correct this. I think dialing in the most accurate base coil Ω is important for your TC accuracy.
Coil resolution is displayed down to the thousandths of an Ω now (0.001) not just hundredths as with stock.
You can set the 10-second protection higher, up to 25 seconds, so you don't have to cycle the button for puffs longer than 10 seconds. Quite useful for the DC herb atty, or the long-lunged, like Steven
Also has lots of features for the clock, logo, display, screen saver, etc, but I'm not as interested in that stuff.
What's not to like?
I guess there has to be something?
Not much really. The fact that it doesn't come on your mod already, and you have to download it and set it up?I guess if I had to say something, it has a "PID" algorithm mode which probably shouldn't be used unless you really know what you're doing. I suppose in an extreme case, you can cause your mod to blow up in your face if you put VERY wrong settings in there? So don't use PID mode then
It doesn't work for any eleaf mods....yet.
This has got me wanting to look into the arcticfox software, which does work for eleafs Anyways...... if you're a TC / info nerd like me, go get the myevic already. Ok?
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KeroZen
Chronic vapaholic
Ha! So I'm not crazy. I was told by @funkyjunky and @Pipes that my evic VTC mini might be defective, but nope, you experience the same "wild live resistance readings" that I do.
To me it looks like the readings are "precise" (many digits) but absolutely not "accurate", as the reading fluctuates and even screwing/unscrewing the atty can give you a different value. Note that I'm talking about the readings in the 3rd display line. The standard ohm readings are either locked or masked, they stay constant until you hit the trigger, then the value rises until you release and it jumps back to the locked value instantly.
With the live readings I can see the value jumping all around. It rises when I hit the trigger fine, alright, but then when it goes down (or even when idle at room temperature) it fluctuates sometimes up sometimes down (but globally down)
Seeing the TC algo is based on those readings, it can't be good. We should really try to add some DSP filtering as the ADC values look very noisy to me. And displaying that many digits seems pointless to me as the thing is absolutely not that accurate. In my Smoant Knight 2 the coil reads 0.49ohm for instance and that's about the accuracy it has (and there's even some uncertainty about the last digit) There's no way the evic can be accurate down to the 3rd digit after the dot.
@funkyjunky claims that this TC method is even better than a dedicated sensor, and I disagree: reading the value alters the resistance. You can't observe the system without disturbing it. Observing the value already changed it since you need to apply current to read the circuit amps and volts. Even the room temperature affects the initial reading (hence the need to lock the value)
Honestly, if this method was that good, why no other vape (to my knowledge, FW4 could be the exception?) is using it? They are all sensored and it costs more to do it this way vs just adding a voltage divider and a shunt resistor.
Talking about shunt resistors, precision ones do tend to cost more and usually manufacturers get around the problem by having a not very precise shunt but correct that with a good calibration at the factory. I see that we can alter the shunt value in myevic advanced settings, but do we know how it's calibrated? Where is the value stored and is it lost when you perform a full device reset procedure?
I've had weird readings since day one with my device, way before switching to myevic. People with multiple devices reported that they get different coil readings with the same atty used on different devices. I really don't think it's a problem with my particular device (the authenticity code worked for what it's worth) It's just absolutely not as accurate as it tries to look like.
But it works overall, and TC mode is clearly better using myevic (no more visible coil pulsing) You should try the PID mode btw, we posted some values for the Project in the myevic thread, they could be a good starting point to tweak.
To me it looks like the readings are "precise" (many digits) but absolutely not "accurate", as the reading fluctuates and even screwing/unscrewing the atty can give you a different value. Note that I'm talking about the readings in the 3rd display line. The standard ohm readings are either locked or masked, they stay constant until you hit the trigger, then the value rises until you release and it jumps back to the locked value instantly.
With the live readings I can see the value jumping all around. It rises when I hit the trigger fine, alright, but then when it goes down (or even when idle at room temperature) it fluctuates sometimes up sometimes down (but globally down)
Seeing the TC algo is based on those readings, it can't be good. We should really try to add some DSP filtering as the ADC values look very noisy to me. And displaying that many digits seems pointless to me as the thing is absolutely not that accurate. In my Smoant Knight 2 the coil reads 0.49ohm for instance and that's about the accuracy it has (and there's even some uncertainty about the last digit) There's no way the evic can be accurate down to the 3rd digit after the dot.
@funkyjunky claims that this TC method is even better than a dedicated sensor, and I disagree: reading the value alters the resistance. You can't observe the system without disturbing it. Observing the value already changed it since you need to apply current to read the circuit amps and volts. Even the room temperature affects the initial reading (hence the need to lock the value)
Honestly, if this method was that good, why no other vape (to my knowledge, FW4 could be the exception?) is using it? They are all sensored and it costs more to do it this way vs just adding a voltage divider and a shunt resistor.
Talking about shunt resistors, precision ones do tend to cost more and usually manufacturers get around the problem by having a not very precise shunt but correct that with a good calibration at the factory. I see that we can alter the shunt value in myevic advanced settings, but do we know how it's calibrated? Where is the value stored and is it lost when you perform a full device reset procedure?
I've had weird readings since day one with my device, way before switching to myevic. People with multiple devices reported that they get different coil readings with the same atty used on different devices. I really don't think it's a problem with my particular device (the authenticity code worked for what it's worth) It's just absolutely not as accurate as it tries to look like.
But it works overall, and TC mode is clearly better using myevic (no more visible coil pulsing) You should try the PID mode btw, we posted some values for the Project in the myevic thread, they could be a good starting point to tweak.
OF
Well-Known Member
I'm not so sure that's proven just because a few of us also saw this...... We could all be crazy already, you're just late to the party. Or it might not have anything to do with sanity (whatever that might be), in fact it's entirely possible it's actually happening?
As I think I rambled on about not long back on this, precision (lots of counts) can be deceptive but also an advantage in the long run. Not an easy thing to pull off, but a 'running average' can be effective removing "noise" from the signal under good conditions.
Like stopping pedestrians and asking their age in an effort to find the average age in town, it takes more than a few samples.
PID control tries to carry this forward by 'knowing' the thermal response of the oven/load. It can, in a way, foretell the future enough to keep the throttle wide open as speed (heat) builds knowing how long/much it will coast when it backs off. More useful for e-cig guys I think?
OF
elmoe420
Well-Known Member
Big +1 for myevic. If you are familiar with the stock Joyetech firmware it is a smooth transition too. Not much more difficult to configure and much more powerful. Feels like what the stock firmware should be.
Articfox is more like an eScribe clone for the Joyetech chip and derivatives. It uses the DNA style "profile centric" UI. Basically uses atty resistance to "sense" or pick which profile to load.
I currently have myevic in my VTC Mini and Articfox on my Cuboid.
Articfox is more like an eScribe clone for the Joyetech chip and derivatives. It uses the DNA style "profile centric" UI. Basically uses atty resistance to "sense" or pick which profile to load.
I currently have myevic in my VTC Mini and Articfox on my Cuboid.
Vape Donkey 650
All vape, no smoke please.
Nice to discuss the firmwares, funny Ω and all that stuff, and I do have some more questions about that stuff, but to be kinder to the new, who still need to look up the TC mod settings to use their V3 donuts or Gen2 herb carts for the first time, and are just getting confused by those posts above, I will try to make my future posts on the topic at the box mod / firmware customizing thread and not this thread (unless it's especially relevant to donut vapes too and not just geeking? maybe)
To nudge this thread slightly back in the direction of another relevant tangent: I would like to recognize some useful products I have purchased that have enhanced my v2.5 / v3.0 donut vaping experience (stuff that DT does not sell) that were brought to my attention by fellow FC posters here:
@papapotbelly : I got around to buying some of those "titaneer" Ti toothpicks that you posted about several pages back. I must say, this is the perfect dab tool for donut attys at home or on the road. Works great for loading the donut with precision, and not bad for scraping up at the reclaim and semi-melted oil that gets around the side of the donut and under the cup, so you can re-vape it or dispose of it. Not really that useful for breaking off a piece of shatter or crumble from a larger piece, but there's other tools for that, and this toothpick is to load that broken-off chunk. (great for a transferring a dab of co2 oil from a syringe to donut too)
A bit pricey yes, but the best part is how it unscrews and is self-contained, not too big but just big enough. You can use the pick and have it get oily or have some crumbs on the tip, but then screw it back into the tube and put it in your pocket or case and not worry about lint or dirt getting on it, or worry about poking yourself The tube-to-pick clearance on the inside is tight, so it's likely some sticky stuff might touch the inside of the tube if you pack it up dirty, but at least it protects it from the outside still
Some other honorable mentions from way back:
@Steven got me started with hydratubes and recyclers, which was one of my main reasons for wanting to join FC; to discuss using water tools with DT donuts. I still use the small pinnacle hydratube once in a while, sometimes at home but more often out of the house, and hooking these things up to the V3 has become super-easy and natural with the glass adapters that Matt sells now.
The recycler rig didn't end up working that well with donuts, mostly because the large space between the perc and the recycler seems to be too much for the relatively small airflow through the donut to get the recycle action going, but that particular rig ended up working perfectly with my other desktop flower vapes, so I don't regret buying it at all.
It also got me into recyclers and glass in general, and I did end up getting another mini-recycler rig that works great with the V3s. I'm trying to not let my glass collection expand further, but I'll also credit Steve for giving me the ideas for using various silicon adapters to connect stuff, which was the only way before the dedicated glass adapters.
@fernand (and maybe a few others too?) gave me the idea of getting an infrafred thermometer with adjustable emissivity to accurately measure (as much as a cheap, easy instrument can) my donut temperatures.
I recognize that most people don't care about accurate representation of their donut temps with the v2.5 / v3, as long as it "tastes good" and not harsh or maybe "doesn't burn", whatever temp # on their screen it says, is good enough. Not for me, I demand a reasonably accurate # on the screen. I already had a cheap IR gun like this, but it was locked in @ 0.95 emission, so it was almost useless. A few bucks, and 0.65 emissivity (the best # for ceramic is still not fully settled I guess) and now I can check different TCR #s to see which one makes the most stable and matching temps on the IR gun.
It's also worth noting that not all donuts will have the same TCR # to get a temp number on the screen to match up with the reading on an IR gun. The old low Ω large donuts had lower TCR #, the medium donuts are a little higher, and the newer batch of high Ω large donuts seem to have the highest TCR #. Each individual donut can require a slightly different # to get accurate temps, so I think it's worthwhile to check each one. Nearly all of my medium donuts match up @ TCR 200, vaping around 380-430F. But 2 medium donuts on my cuboids with higher Ω (0.74. 0.72) were running 20-40F hot at that figure, so I lowered to TCR 185 and that seems to be a better match on those 2 attys at least. The IR gun has also allowed me to confirm that the myevic software does indeed result in a more stable temperature range compared to stock (at least with no airflow)
@OF put me up to the benefits of using high-temp, medical grade silicon tubing to use as whips and adapters for my donuts, rather than PVC, with its questionable and unknown risks as a vaporizer tubing. He also put me up on PBW, but I was actually underwhelmed by the cleaning power of this stuff. It does work, however, I find it not much more powerful or useful for cleaning glass than alcohol. Maybe I'm not using it right, but that could be another long post I'll end on that
and not this thread (unless it's especially relevant to donut vapes too and not just geeking? maybe)To nudge this thread slightly back in the direction of another relevant tangent: I would like to recognize some useful products I have purchased that have enhanced my v2.5 / v3.0 donut vaping experience (stuff that DT does not sell) that were brought to my attention by fellow FC posters here:
@papapotbelly : I got around to buying some of those "titaneer" Ti toothpicks that you posted about several pages back. I must say, this is the perfect dab tool for donut attys at home or on the road. Works great for loading the donut with precision, and not bad for scraping up at the reclaim and semi-melted oil that gets around the side of the donut and under the cup, so you can re-vape it or dispose of it. Not really that useful for breaking off a piece of shatter or crumble from a larger piece, but there's other tools for that, and this toothpick is to load that broken-off chunk. (great for a transferring a dab of co2 oil from a syringe to donut too)
A bit pricey yes, but the best part is how it unscrews and is self-contained, not too big but just big enough. You can use the pick and have it get oily or have some crumbs on the tip, but then screw it back into the tube and put it in your pocket or case and not worry about lint or dirt getting on it, or worry about poking yourself
The tube-to-pick clearance on the inside is tight, so it's likely some sticky stuff might touch the inside of the tube if you pack it up dirty, but at least it protects it from the outside still Some other honorable mentions from way back:
@Steven got me started with hydratubes and recyclers, which was one of my main reasons for wanting to join FC; to discuss using water tools with DT donuts. I still use the small pinnacle hydratube once in a while, sometimes at home but more often out of the house, and hooking these things up to the V3 has become super-easy and natural with the glass adapters that Matt sells now.
The recycler rig didn't end up working that well with donuts, mostly because the large space between the perc and the recycler seems to be too much for the relatively small airflow through the donut to get the recycle action going, but that particular rig ended up working perfectly with my other desktop flower vapes, so I don't regret buying it at all.
It also got me into recyclers and glass in general, and I did end up getting another mini-recycler rig that works great with the V3s. I'm trying to not let my glass collection expand further, but I'll also credit Steve for giving me the ideas for using various silicon adapters to connect stuff, which was the only way before the dedicated glass adapters.@fernand (and maybe a few others too?) gave me the idea of getting an infrafred thermometer with adjustable emissivity to accurately measure (as much as a cheap, easy instrument can) my donut temperatures.
I recognize that most people don't care about accurate representation of their donut temps with the v2.5 / v3, as long as it "tastes good" and not harsh or maybe "doesn't burn", whatever temp # on their screen it says, is good enough. Not for me, I demand a reasonably accurate # on the screen. I already had a cheap IR gun like this, but it was locked in @ 0.95 emission, so it was almost useless. A few bucks, and 0.65 emissivity (the best # for ceramic is still not fully settled I guess) and now I can check different TCR #s to see which one makes the most stable and matching temps on the IR gun.
It's also worth noting that not all donuts will have the same TCR # to get a temp number on the screen to match up with the reading on an IR gun. The old low Ω large donuts had lower TCR #, the medium donuts are a little higher, and the newer batch of high Ω large donuts seem to have the highest TCR #. Each individual donut can require a slightly different # to get accurate temps, so I think it's worthwhile to check each one. Nearly all of my medium donuts match up @ TCR 200, vaping around 380-430F. But 2 medium donuts on my cuboids with higher Ω (0.74. 0.72) were running 20-40F hot at that figure, so I lowered to TCR 185 and that seems to be a better match on those 2 attys at least.
The IR gun has also allowed me to confirm that the myevic software does indeed result in a more stable temperature range compared to stock (at least with no airflow)@OF put me up to the benefits of using high-temp, medical grade silicon tubing to use as whips and adapters for my donuts, rather than PVC, with its questionable and unknown risks as a vaporizer tubing. He also put me up on PBW, but I was actually underwhelmed by the cleaning power of this stuff. It does work, however, I find it not much more powerful or useful for cleaning glass than alcohol. Maybe I'm not using it right, but that could be another long post
I'll end on that
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Vape Donkey 650
All vape, no smoke please.
This is probably over 10k combined with the previous post:
here's some less wordy stuff, kitchen table co2 dabs on the V3 through one of my rigs (Dabitha)
(apologies for the tall video aspect ratio and the loud news on TV off-camera)
This was on a just cleaned medium donut. Nothing tastes quite like 1st hits of something good on a clean donut.
This is how it looked after that nice puff. I scraped at the little symmetrical reclaim pools with the pick.
Had a few more nice puffs on that 1st load, and then I reloaded with some pop naturals pineapple.
What a way to start your day
When switching from the 2.5 to the V3, I had to adjust my settings to vape co2 oil effectively. The v2.5 with co2 used to mostly vape fine at the same settings you would use for BHO or whatever, but with the v3's medium and large donuts and the same 390-400F I would use for shatter or crumble, I would get meager clouds with co2 oil; it seems most of the oil would slip under the donut into the cup. I tried using different draw techniques and dab rigs, but it seemed upping the temps to 420-430 is the trick to get a satisfying, tasty cloud with several co2 oils I've tried on the medium donuts.
That's a little odd, because I would expect most BHOs to be harsh and not the best tasting at these higher temp, I never need to go that high, 400 is fine to finish my load up with shatter, but 430 feels fine with co2. I have confirmed reasonably accurate temps with the IR gun on two of my evics with V3s dedicated just to co2 oils. If you look at the screen on my mod, and if what it says is to be trusted, you'll observe I only got a max 5F overshoot on my temp, 
and very stable too 
Recently, I've been vaping most of the co2 oil that I consume on my expanding fleet of donut-coiled cubis mini tanks, because they work great and are convenient, but I still love the larger cloud through a rig that the V3 can deliver, I just have to reload it and clean it up a little more, and dial in the settings.
Hope this is of interest to anyone. It just goes to show you have many tools to fine-tune the V3 to a variety of preferences and applications. If you're not 100% happy with how yours are vaping, try different settings and draw techniques, do some research on this thread, and maybe invest in some tools?
here's some less wordy stuff, kitchen table co2 dabs on the V3 through one of my rigs (Dabitha)
(apologies for the tall video aspect ratio and the loud news on TV off-camera)
This was on a just cleaned medium donut. Nothing tastes quite like 1st hits of something good on a clean donut.
This is how it looked after that nice puff. I scraped at the little symmetrical reclaim pools with the pick.
Had a few more nice puffs on that 1st load, and then I reloaded with some pop naturals pineapple.
What a way to start your day
When switching from the 2.5 to the V3, I had to adjust my settings to vape co2 oil effectively. The v2.5 with co2 used to mostly vape fine at the same settings you would use for BHO or whatever, but with the v3's medium and large donuts and the same 390-400F I would use for shatter or crumble, I would get meager clouds with co2 oil; it seems most of the oil would slip under the donut into the cup. I tried using different draw techniques and dab rigs, but it seemed upping the temps to 420-430 is the trick to get a satisfying, tasty cloud with several co2 oils I've tried on the medium donuts.
That's a little odd, because I would expect most BHOs to be harsh and not the best tasting at these higher temp, I never need to go that high, 400 is fine to finish my load up with shatter, but 430 feels fine with co2.
I have confirmed reasonably accurate temps with the IR gun on two of my evics with V3s dedicated just to co2 oils. If you look at the screen on my mod, and if what it says is to be trusted, you'll observe I only got a max 5F overshoot on my temp, and very stable too Recently, I've been vaping most of the co2 oil that I consume on my expanding fleet of donut-coiled cubis mini tanks, because they work great and are convenient, but I still love the larger cloud through a rig that the V3 can deliver, I just have to reload it and clean it up a little more, and dial in the settings.
Hope this is of interest to anyone. It just goes to show you have many tools to fine-tune the V3 to a variety of preferences and applications. If you're not 100% happy with how yours are vaping, try different settings and draw techniques, do some research on this thread, and maybe invest in some tools?
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papapotbelly
Well-Known Member
@Vape Donkey, yay, you got a titaner! Better not be buying up all my US supply lol. Yup, they are great. Just be careful if you have it sitting upright in the open position. Sucker is sharp! I put my palm down on it and it was still in there when I lifted up my hand - got some stigmata from the sharp tip, haha.
+1 on the PPWT, that thing is a natural with the 14mm adapter and can fit great in a vape case or small pelican box. You can even put a #1 rubber stopper in the bottom and #3 on the top to keep the water inside for travel. Great diffusion on the go.
+1 on the PPWT, that thing is a natural with the 14mm adapter and can fit great in a vape case or small pelican box. You can even put a #1 rubber stopper in the bottom and #3 on the top to keep the water inside for travel. Great diffusion on the go.
Steven
Well-Known Member
@Vape Donkey 650 I agree with you with the underwhelmed experience with pwb. I actually find alcohol to work better ime. I believe the great results @OF gets partially has to do with the hot water used. To achieve this effect with alcohol, i pour alcohol into my hydratube, no salt, and place the Hydratube under running hot water. Within a minute I give it a few shakes and it's brand new in under 5 min as @OF accounts with pwb as well. The heat really eases the process Imo. Pwb is safer though
OF
Well-Known Member
Absolutely, heat is key. These are chemical reactions, lots of them in fact. Such activity rates are typically determined by temperature. Cool it down, it slows. Cool it down further and it stops. I usually rig it so hot water runs over the WT or put it in a glass or bowl to 'soak' in running hot water.
Safer, true. And basically 'green', not a problem to run down the drain unlike ISO.
Oh, yeah, much cheaper too. I like cheaper..........
Lots of good stuff on the topic here:
http://fuckcombustion.com/threads/pbw-the-chemistry-of-clean.7854/
OF
WakeAndVape
VapeLife X
llamaman001
Well-Known Member
Just came across this thread, was trying to decide between a Milana and a mist vape touch but now I'm confused as which one I want. Is this a viable dry herbal option? I don't ever touch concentrates so keep that in mind. Just looking for something discreet and fast, keep in mind I have a very low tolerance so one or two quick tokes and I'm golden