Divine Tribe atty's

[fernand]

@OF A little pocket MXT-100 has served me well for years, 100g x 10mg, but the coin style batteries are a nuisance. Can't beat garden variety AAAs.

Under cook-ware they offer the multi-function

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ZZ5CO2M?psc=1

but I dunno about the ABS plastic and the resolution ;-)

 

[OF]

@OF A little pocket MXT-100 has served me well for years, 100g x 10mg, but the coin style batteries are a nuisance. Can't beat garden variety AAAs.

Under cook-ware they offer the multi-function

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ZZ5CO2M?psc=1

but I dunno about the ABS plastic and the resolution ;-)

Yep, I've got a very similar scale, still use it for stuff too heavy for the 20 gram one, for sure the coin cells are a bummer. They seem to always be near dead. I learned a lesson there for sure, AAAs are the call for sure. Cheaper, easier to find, run LOTS longer.......

I'd steer clear of that sort of scale, really more of a gimmick when you get down to it. It's not a pan (controlled vertical action, doesn't matter where the load is placed) but is a lever. Put the same weight further out and it displays more? We're looking for accuracy here, not bling.

POTENTIAL DEAL ALERT

I just got an 'email only' notice from GearBest on the Istick Pico (my favorite for driving the DT atty) at a very attractive price ($21 to $23.50 depending on finish) shipped:
http://www.gearbest.com/temperature-control-mods/pp_341583.html

I've bought two of these in the past from them (different colors, different orders) and am convinced they are the genuine article (which makes sense to me since they're made in China unlike the bargain Solos from EBay......which are made in Canada.....).

While I'm normally kinda shy about recommending such sources, I'd happily buy another one from them if I was needing another.

OF

 

[fernand]

@OF that's a great tip. Thanks. But somehow I passed up an iPad for $129, and now ... these beauties ? The one thing about the Pico is that the resistance doesn't change in real time, so you can't calculate a TC curve/setting on that device, you have to use values you derived on an eVic Mini, or just cut and try.

~~~~~~~~

You know how well your science fair project is going by how often it kicks you in the cojos. A casual question can lead you to the gates of doom.

So how, dear sir, do you intend to free the little fireproof 4 mm deep polycrystalline alumina sapphire crucible from the well and the embrace of its donut, after their intimate adventure? And the answer is "with great difficulty".

I'll go out on a limb here and project that I never, ever, in a million years would I have gotten it out in one piece, but for the advice of a Brooklyn Fairy who whispered in my ear something like "hit it wit' da woaaahts, dummy". And around 10 watts it started to glow pink, coupled as it was by common purpose and proximity to the ceramic heater. That's all it took, it popped right out with a tap to the back of the mod. Whew. Good to know ...

Now that we can start to zero in on them, maybe we can start to better understand what each of these groups of compounds does. At least we know that we don't know. Not like all the Big Pharma neuropsychiatrists who claim to understand the human mind, you know how the zazinta has dopamine dripping into the cingulate gyrus so the GABA starts jerking the gazouta and we remember. That we were MADE for Prozac and Zoloft. That there's a gene on Chromosome 12 that actually codes special groovy receptors for each of the expensive and best-promoted drugs of each generation.

Of each generation. We were maybe born too late. I think there's an untold story about the Far West Snake Oils of the 19th century. Made of merely what and what? They might have been more medicinal, more healing, more hallelujah than is generally allowed in history books.

 

[OF]

The one thing about the Pico is that the resistance doesn't change in real time, so you can't calculate a TC curve/setting on that device, you have to use values you derived on an eVic Mini, or just cut and try.

While you raise an interesting point, but I'm not sure right off it's it's all that valid? First off, Pico does in fact display resistance changes, it just multiplies it by the M factor we fed it and shows it as degrees? It's still a PPM change deal. At one point I had a table on a card of displayed temperature against actual resistance measured.

While it's nice to have say the Mini which also shows resistance dynamically for experiments, for general use it's generally useless? That is you can do just fine with no display at all ('stealth mode').

The key to cracking the code is not a resistance measurement. Rather an independent confirmation of the actual temperature produced? I 'fished' the 245 number by setting to 390F and trying different M values to get to 390F (or what I took it to be) as a result. No direct resistance readings involved? Such readings, I'll maintain, are not necessary in such cases. Nice perhaps, but not necessary. The 'back of the envelope' will translate the temperature displayed to the resistance change using the very factor you fed it to calculate the number to display. A bit of circular reasoning, but I think I have it right.......

Like with Ohm's Law, if you know two factors (in this case displayed temperature number and scale factor you inputted) you can easily and confidently calculate the third.

When it comes down to using I think the compromise in displayed values is more than offset by the tiny size, solid performance and low cost.

Everyone gets to make their own calls, of course. As they should. I'm suggesting if you can spare twenty bucks and haven't tried Pico, here's a great chance. If you have one already (and know how useful it can be) there's a good opportunity to pick up another/backup/loaner unit for cheap. If you've tried Pico and don't like it you've no doubt written me off already anyway........

I have several Picos 'in service' with different attys with different strains. And one with the WTA on it of course. "Several" is a bit misleading, I count 4 total. 3 if you discount the one with the WT. I also have a couple of others (Mini, Cuboid, TC100W). And of course, the monster RX200. That's the only one that didn't end up with a loaded atty on top silently (and obediently) waiting on my urge to 'play with that one again'.

"For your consideration".

OF

 

[fernand]

@OF of course in the end you have to have some way to actually measure the temp anyway, since only THAT is what matters. Having the resistance reading AND the actual temp lets you calculate an "M" value to start with. Then you try it and correct it until your displayed target temp and actual measured temp are reasonably close.

After fiddling with thermocouples a lot, and finding it very time-consuming, I have been reasonably happy with a fast and painless alternative that reads close to what the thermocouples show, as long as the target is pretty clean: an IR gun set to 0.50 Emissivity. Now that I have the alumina cups I can try thermocouples again with a tiny immersion oil bath.

As you say, for experiments the eVic mini VTC rules, but for everyday use, once you have the device "calibrated", who cares. Absolutely agree that the Pico is great, maybe just not the first and only TC unit someone should get.

Is it a matter of firmware update, or a specific setting, 'cause my Pico shows zero change in the displayed resistance as the coil heats up?

 

[ataxian]

@OF of course in the end you have to have some way to actually measure the temp anyway, since only THAT is what matters. Having the resistance reading AND the actual temp lets you calculate an "M" value to start with. Then you try it and correct it until your displayed target temp and actual measured temp are reasonably close.

After fiddling with thermocouples a lot, and finding it very time-consuming, I have been reasonably happy with a fast and painless alternative that reads close to what the thermocouples show, as long as the target is pretty clean: an IR gun set to 0.50 Emissivity. Now that I have the alumina cups I can try thermocouples again with a tiny immersion oil bath.

As you say, for experiments the eVic mini VTC rules, but for everyday use, once you have the device "calibrated", who cares. Absolutely agree that the Pico is great, maybe just not the first and only TC unit someone should get.

Is it a matter of firmware update, or a specific setting, 'cause my Pico shows zero change in the displayed resistance as the coil heats up?

Your still here?

I bought a FIREFLY because of you?
It broke after 2 weeks?

The SOLO is still way better! (taste and function)

 

[OF]

Your still here?

I bought a FIREFLY because of you?
It broke after 2 weeks?

You fell for that one too? I understand he gets a quarter dollar kickback for every shavetail he suckers in.

I don't think it's his main job, more of a part time, beer money thing?

OF

 

[fernand]

Cynics. I still have my Firefly 1 and love it.

@ataxian was that a 1 or 2 that died on you? I also love the Solo I got on e-bay years ago. I'm lovin' a lot o' stuff. It's like the judge asking the accused how he could rob and main a little old lady for a lousy quarter, and the guy says "Well, Your Honor, a quarter here, a quarter there."

My love du jour, however, is a donut atomizer with a little ceramic crucible, and a temperature controlled mod. What are you doin' here ;-) ? Of course a working Solo is better than a broken Firefly.

@OF so how do you get the Pico to display resistance changing?

 

[OF]

@OF so how do you get the Pico to display resistance changing?

Didn't we just go through this a few posts back?

It does not show resistance changing, it shows the 'locked' resistance and estimated temperature which is the same thing really? If you want to know in Ohms you need to subtract room temperature from the reading, divide the difference by .245% per degree C (or whatever factor you're using). If you're using F, not C then that number is .245 (5/9) to correct for that. The unit itself is not using degrees at all, it's working on Ohms exclusively to regulate. It's a display issue. If it says "390F" this is a rise of 320 degrees (390-70). 320 times .00245 is .833 time higher (1.833 total) if we were in C. But since we're not, we need to factor that in. .833 times 5 divided by nine is .463 times bigger instead, 1.463 total. If it was .70 Ohms to start it's 1.024 Ohms (.7 X 1.463) at that point? What Mini shows on the two windows if it's display under those conditions. The information is there, you just need to know how to read it?

Running display of resistance is a nice feature of some Mods but basically meaningless to almost every owner? And to those very few of us who know/understand/care about such things it's not really necessary (only a convenience) since the information is available. You don't really use the resistance reading in normal use do you? I don't either. I too watch the temperature display even with say a Mini where running resistance is available. It's good for curiosity for sure, but I don't think many are really that curious. "How hot is it" is the important question there? Nor did I use it when I 'worked out the .245 factor' since I fished out the answer by correcting my estimate (based a TC coefficient for a similar NiChrome alloy, since we don't know the exact alloy used) based on the real temperature when it displayed '390F'. IIRC I started too high (cut off too soon since it thought we were hotter based on an incorrect number) as the final temperature was 'too cold'. When the displayed and actual values of temperature matched we had the right 'M factor', never having used Ohms at all in the effort.

Running resistance is not needed or even useful to almost everyone. What are they looking for? For those of us that crave such details they too are right there, you just need to run your 'slip stick' (sliderule) a bit to get them expressed in the terms you want (Ohms not degrees).

Regards and thanks to everyone not so bored as to have wondered off by this point. Or long before. Both of you.

OF

 

[ataxian]

Cynics. I still have my Firefly 1 and love it.

@ataxian was that a 1 or 2 that died on you? I also love the Solo I got on e-bay years ago. I'm lovin' a lot o' stuff. It's like the judge asking the accused how he could rob and main a little old lady for a lousy quarter, and the guy says "Well, Your Honor, a quarter here, a quarter there."

My love du jour, however, is a donut atomizer with a little ceramic crucible, and a temperature controlled mod. What are you doin' here ;-) ? Of course a working Solo is better than a broken Firefly.

@OF so how do you get the Pico to display resistance changing?

I do a lot of SHATTER and have lots of stuff to enjoy it.
Just checking whats out there?

Then I came into this forum seeing what I can buy?

You were here and I had a bad experience based on your satisfaction?

@fernand you call me a cynic?
I don't believe without evidence! (Is that bad)?

In the 70's living on the NORTH SHORE of OAHU we took seeds from HUMBOLDT and breed them with MAUI WOWIE so I thought there was something I was missing? (we pulled all the males)

Sorry to bother you!

 

[OF]

I do a lot of SHATTER and have lots of stuff to enjoy it.
Just checking whats out there?

Then I came into this forum seeing what I can buy?

I think you've come to the right place, check it out.

There are of course more powerful options (aren't there always?), but when it comes to taste few if any can compete with the DT atty driven by a suitable TC mod. This gives a small area (read reloading more often) but it's ceramic and temperature controlled. You can't 'burn the oil' if you set it up and load it correctly. It will leak if you overload, but trust me pausing every few hits to do something else can be a good thing. Might as well reload while waiting for the last 50mg or so to 'settle'.

Take the plunge. Order a Pico in your choice in finishes from the link above. Then go to
http://ineedhemp.com/product/combo-...zer-deep-and-shallow-bowl-w-pyrex-mouthpiece/

Since there are two types of the current base (to be upgraded soon we hope.....), I'd go with that combo, you're sure to want to try both deep and shallow bowls. There's also a different top some like, I find it harder to keep clean personally. Your call there, but I'd hold off on the V2.7 top until you decide which bowl depth you prefer? No shipping advantage, and Matt is very fast with replacement parts to support your adventures. Jump or wade in without fear.

You should be home safe and dry for a bit over $50 shipped? If you don't have a high performance 18650 available, that'll add another ten or so. Chump change IMO for what you get, I'm sure you'll agree. No need to trust me or anyone else on this you 'can see with your own lying eyes'. Just trust me enough to anti up and play a few hands?

In a fun way DT in this mode (TC) incorporates many of the strong points of Solo. All glass vapor path, easy, simple loading, reliable/predictable results, automatic operation, ease of cleaning (and ability to get it basically 'brand new'), high reliability and so on carry over from one to the other. IMO if you like Solo you'll like DT.....and the other way about.

That means DT guys who don't also own Solos have probably missed a good bet......

The two weeks or so it'll take the mod to get here (there are faster, more expensive sources of course) means you'll have plenty of time to skim thought this thread looking for tips, good discussions and a laugh or two along the way. But you gotta place those orders to start that clock.

You'll fit in here just fine I bet.......welcome aboard!

OF

 

[ataxian]

I think you've come to the right place, check it out.

There are of course more powerful options (aren't there always?), but when it comes to taste few if any can compete with the DT atty driven by a suitable TC mod. This gives a small area (read reloading more often) but it's ceramic and temperature controlled. You can't 'burn the oil' if you set it up and load it correctly. It will leak if you overload, but trust me pausing every few hits to do something else can be a good thing. Might as well reload while waiting for the last 50mg or so to 'settle'.

Take the plunge. Order a Pico in your choice in finishes from the link above. Then go to
http://ineedhemp.com/product/combo-...zer-deep-and-shallow-bowl-w-pyrex-mouthpiece/

Since there are two types of the current base (to be upgraded soon we hope.....), I'd go with that combo, you're sure to want to try both deep and shallow bowls. There's also a different top some like, I find it harder to keep clean personally. Your call there, but I'd hold off on the V2.7 top until you decide which bowl depth you prefer? No shipping advantage, and Matt is very fast with replacement parts to support your adventures. Jump or wade in without fear.

You should be home safe and dry for a bit over $50 shipped? If you don't have a high performance 18650 available, that'll add another ten or so. Chump change IMO for what you get, I'm sure you'll agree. No need to trust me or anyone else on this you 'can see with your own lying eyes'. Just trust me enough to anti up and play a few hands?

In a fun way DT in this mode (TC) incorporates many of the strong points of Solo. All glass vapor path, easy, simple loading, reliable/predictable results, automatic operation, ease of cleaning (and ability to get it basically 'brand new'), high reliability and so on carry over from one to the other. IMO if you like Solo you'll like DT.....and the other way about.

That means DT guys who don't also own Solos have probably missed a good bet......

The two weeks or so it'll take the mod to get here (there are faster, more expensive sources of course) means you'll have plenty of time to skim thought this thread looking for tips, good discussions and a laugh or two along the way. But you gotta place those orders to start that clock.

You'll fit in here just fine I bet.......welcome aboard!

OF

I'm a fiend with SHATTER and though this might fit my habit? (I have so much stuff)
The HERB ATTACHMENT? What do you think? (I love COLAS)

 

[OF]

I'm a fiend with SHATTER and though this might fit my habit? (I have so much stuff)
The HERB ATTACHMENT? What do you think? (I love COLAS)

The DC cart (for herb) I still haven't got a handle on, for whatever reason it causes the mods I've tried to unexpectedly to 'jump out of TC mode' and revert to VW instead with no warning. I killed one that way, thus far have caught the other runaways in time (since I'm watching, it doesn't do it.....).

As an alternative you have Solo. Which has excellent temperature control and no drama. I use Solo/Air for herb duty, except when I want to mess with something of course.

It's cheap enough to try if you're so inclined, I just can't recommend it over Solo/Air.

OF

 

[ataxian]

The DC cart (for herb) I still haven't got a handle on, for whatever reason it causes the mods I've tried to unexpectedly to 'jump out of TC mode' and revert to VW instead with no warning. I killed one that way, thus far have caught the other runaways in time (since I'm watching, it doesn't do it.....).

As an alternative you have Solo. Which has excellent temperature control and no drama. I use Solo/Air for herb duty, except when I want to mess with something of course.

It's cheap enough to try if you're so inclined, I just can't recommend it over Solo/Air.

OF

I have way too much SHATTER and COLAS and plenty of tools.

I tried some attachments for HERB (another company) however I was underwhelmed?
I use the SOLO around the garden. When I go boating a wax pen full of SHATTER is all I take!

Just curious?

 

[wrigleyvillain]

(I love COLAS)

Old school Hawaiian, all right.

 

[ataxian]

Old school Hawaiian, all right.

In HAWAIIAN we call them COLAS (tail in Spanish) when we went to MAINLAND MEXICO for $10.00 a bag of 5 COLAS. (3 feet each)
In HAWAII we brought a few words.

The HAWAIIAN'S would talk story and have us all laughing!

COLAS in HAWAII would get very tall if you forgot to manicure! (Too much surf)?
I trimmed so extreme.
The HAWAIIAN's called me a dumb white pig.
HARVEST TIME was like 3x more crop than the year before.

OUTDOORS unreal {SUN; WIND; RAIN; SOIL} = BUMPER CROP = CIVILIZED

I made a lot of HAWAIIAN friend's!

 

[fernand]

@ataxian sorry you didn't notice the ;-) in my post.

The "Matt Donut" we're into here is IMHO more cost-effective and flexible than most of the new package electronic nails. But it's the same general objective: an effective portable concentrate vaporizer.

The temperature control base is separate, so we shop for the "mod" we like best. The new ones have 2 important features: 3 programmable TC settings (M1,M2, M3), and a wattage setting in TC mode so you can limit the power applied as it seeks temperature. That determines the slope of the heating.

The atomizer ceramic heater donut works well in Temp Control mode. If you don't know the exact metal the coil is made of, the question is what TC value to use for the TC curve, so that actual temp at the donut will be close to what you see on the display.

That TC value can be derived from how a specific coil's resistance changes over temp, and by tweaking it until the displayed target temp and measured temp at the donut agree.

By now we already have learned that on average setting it around 220-245 and setting the watts to 12.0 we get great results. You can e.g. set the M1 to 210, M2 to 220 and m3 to 240, then try them all. So as soon as you get the gear you can set it up.

If you can't wait for a $24 Pico and can afford double that and fast delivery, the Joyetech eVic Mini VTC is most universally beloved. On the atomizer tops, the pointier 2.5 top easily adapts to a water tool.

I think one difference between the packaged electronic nail kits like the Bolt and our rigs is that they run their nails at very high temps to simulate the old infernal torch + titanium effect. I for one prefer to keep the temp in the boiling point range for the cannabinoids, i.e. mostly 320-450 deg F.

I don't see how the DC herb attachment can approach the effectiveness of the Solo because (for one thing) it apparently can't maintain temp control. It's a very inexpensive but manual mostly-convection vaporizer. I haven't bothered so far, as my Solo is working fine, and with temp control. But some people love the DC.

 

[Haywood]

[SNIP]
vape shopping...and I'm finding all this new joyetech / eleaf stuff! Could this be the mini-mini mod we've all been waiting for?

http://www.joyetech.com/product/evic-basic-cubis-pro-mini/

It says TC, TCR, 1-40w. Almost exact same small size as the artery nugget mod. Firmware upgradeable. The brand we all know and love? But can we set the watts in TC mode? Don't know yet gotta write em. This mod is supposed to come out later this month. Guess who wants one?

I ordered one on Friday; it's shipped and due to arrive on Tuesday. I have high hopes for this one; I have the Joyetech eVic Mini, which is very similar in functionality but uses an 18650 (and is larger than the Basic, of course). I really like the eVic Mini, and prefer it to any of the iSticks (I have three iStick models, and they're fine, just not nearly as nice for my needs as the eVic Mini). I also REALLY appreciate Joyetech for listening to users and providing all the software updates. (And yes, with the Basic you can set the watts in TC mode). And it goes down to 1.0W, not 5W or 10W, which is great as I normally run at 4W with plain atty's in Power mode when I'm not using my DT donut. You can grab the eVic Basic manual (pdf) via this link. The Basic is the same size as the miniVolt and Artery. Both of which have drawbacks that I don't care for. (The miniVolt doesn't have TC and the Artery has uncomfortably squared off corners, and more importantly, doesn't have a power/temp lock function, and I've already fried two atty's in Power mode because the power was set to 5.0W, the minimum, and I accidentally hit the (-) button once when taking it out of my pocket, resetting the power to 50W...

Been out of touch here for the past couple of months, but I just noticed the DT Saionara on their web site, and I'm very interested. Reading the rest of this forum to catch up and hope to find out more!

Haywood

edit: Though I have three different model iSticks, I don't have @OF's beloved Pico, so I can't comment on it, except to say it looks ugly.

 

[fernand]

I tried using Matt's shallow bowl with my alumina cup, and as expected the air coming in below the rim of the cup (see where the holes are?) cools the cup, unevenly, and messes up the temp control.

In the black e-bay units I got from Keepitmovin13 the cup drops into a deep bowl, and the air is drawn in ABOVE the cup, and that works very well, the cup retains temp nearly at the same temp as the donut itself. I'd say the ability to choose where/how you draw in air, like in the better RDAs, would be a great future feature.

Advantages of the cup insert:

- No messy gunky donut, the bowl stays clean.
- Excellent TC, very even temperature across the whole cup, oil boils off neatly.
- You can easily fill and clean the cup outside the atomizer chamber. Prepping the dab is simple.
- Drop the pre-filled cup in after the donut is at temperature, no juggling w/ dabber, carb etc.
- You could keep different pre-loaded cups, just drop one in, like a fresh mag, drop out the empty and pop another one in. Keep a high CBD one ready as antidote in case someone overdoes the THC and gets all freaky ;-)

I was looking at the Bolt and all these other packaged e-dabbers have very high and uncontrolled temps. The Bolt lists 2 settings but nothing like specific temperatures. F'getabaddit. We want good temp control, much more controlled and economical.

I just vaped only the lightest 360 deg fraction from some Tangie Cookies oil, a wispy vapor, I wasn't shooting for coughing out a barn fire. But wow. Just focused and wide awake, the room and everything just lit up. No confusion, no anxiety, and no sedation. Very different from a full heat dab. About half the BB remained, could have saved it for bedtime, but just torched it off.

 

[elmoe420]

- No messy gunky donut, the bowl stays clean.
- Excellent TC, very even temperature across the whole cup, oil boils off neatly.
- You can easily fill and clean the cup outside the atomizer chamber. Prepping the dab is simple.
- Drop the pre-filled cup in after the donut is at temperature, no juggling w/ dabber, carb etc.
- You could keep different pre-loaded cups, just drop one in, like a fresh mag, drop out the empty and pop another one in. Keep a high CBD one ready as antidote in case someone overdoes the THC and gets all freaky ;-)

I was looking at the Bolt and all these other packaged e-dabbers have very high and uncontrolled temps. The Bolt lists 2 settings but nothing like specific temperatures. F'getabaddit. We want good temp control, much more controlled and economical.

I just vaped only the lightest 360 deg fraction from some Tangie Cookies oil, a wispy vapor, I wasn't shooting for coughing out a barn fire. But wow. Just focused and wide awake, the room and everything just lit up. No confusion, no anxiety, and no sedation. Very different from a full heat dab. About half the BB remained, could have saved it for bedtime, but just torched it off.

You've sold me! What vendor are you getting the alumina crucibles from exactly? What are the exact sizes you have found to work with the deep and shallow bowl, both the ebay/fasttech and DT versions? Thanks!

 

[fernand]

It doesn't work well with the shallow DT atomizer I have, as I mentioned, because of the air coming in too low. I have a deep bowl DT coming to try, but I'm not expecting much, same issue as with the shallow bowl.

On other ceramic donut atomizers like the black one shown above, the 6.8 mm x 4 mm has worked very well. There are other sizes to try. I'm trying one shallow enough to work with the DT design, but then capacity is reduced.

The fast way to get some to try is from a US vendor like

http://www.advaluetech.com/products/alumina/alumina-sample-pan

 

[elmoe420]

It doesn't work well with the shallow DT atomizer I have, as I mentioned, because of the air coming in too low. I have a deep bowl DT coming to try, but I'm not expecting much, same issue as with the shallow bowl.

On other ceramic donut atomizers like the black one shown above, the 6.8 mm x 4 mm has worked very well. There are other sizes to try. I'm trying one shallow enough to work with the DT design, but then capacity is reduced.

The fast way to get some to try is from a US vendor like

http://www.advaluetech.com/products/alumina/alumina-sample-pan

Thanks for the link.

Why alumina rather than some other ceramic or that sapphire crucible? Is there any concern with off-gassing with alumina?

 

[Haywood]

My JoyeTech Basic came a day early! (Gotta love ordering it Friday night and getting it Monday!). Current firmware version is 4.02, which is what mine came with. Battery was 90% charged and the time and date was set, though it was off by one day and an hour (from EDT). PC and Mac software is available on the JoyeTech web site. The (pdf) manual is available there too. I got it as a kit, including the Atty, because currently that's the only way it was available and I didn't want to wait. My girlfriend will probably use the Atty with e-juice; I haven't. I paid $40 for the kit but I suspect the mod alone will probably go for $25-$30 once it becomes commonly available.

Five Clicks turns it On and Off. Three Clicks (once powered On) puts it in main settings mode. Charging port is on the side, not the bottom, and it supports pass-through charging. It charges at ~ 1A.

30 second data screen timeout. A clock can be displayed (or not) when the data screen times out, and you can set how long the clock stays on. You can also independently have the clock as part of the data display while you're firing it.

The puffs (seconds) timer stays on longer now, long enough so that after a hit I can see how long it was. This little improvement is great and makes the puff timer actually useful...

Power Off settings:
Fire and Right (+) = TCR settings
Fire and Left (-) = Battery Voltage (not mentioned in the manual, hold for five seconds)
As with the eVic Mini, the same 20 clicks of the Fire button (when the unit is off) will bring up the current firmware version. Ignore the screen coming on after five clicks and keep on clicking until you get to 20 clicks, at which point the firmware version info will display.

Power On settings:
Fire and Right (+) = Clock On/Off/Timeout and Logo On/Off
Fire and Left (-) = Stealth Mode (not mentioned in the manual, hold for five seconds)
Right (+) and Left (-) = Key Lock On/Off (not mentioned in the manual, hold for five seconds)

There is no display rotate command that I've found. Yes, you can set the maximum initial wattage in TC mode.

I haven't had time to use/test it in TC mode with my DT Atty yet, but I expect it to work the same as the eVic Mini does, which is great, since the chip sets use pretty much the same logic. The eVic Mini is my goto mod when I use the DT Atty and I'm sure the Basic will be as well when I want the smaller package. I'll get to testing it with the DT Atty in TC mode tomorrow or the next day...

It's nice in the hand, much like the miniVolt is, and unlike the Artery. And it doesn't turn itself off after a while. The Fire button is a pretty soft touch with a physical and audible click; it's delicious. The regulatory buttons (what JoyeTech calls the plus and minus buttons) are recessed on the bottom of the mod and require a firm press. They are not as easy to use as buttons on the side would be due to their small size, recessed position, and strong spring. This doesn't much bother me as I generally only use them when I change Attys, and having the charge port on the side instead of the bottom makes much more sense to me. Maybe I would feel differently if I used the regulatory buttons a lot...

I'm liking it very much, and find it a great complement to its larger big brother, the eVic Mini (or the eVic Two Mini, if you're buying now). If you're a fan of the eVic Mini, you'll love the Basic. I got mine in black.

 

[fernand]

@elmoe420 as far as I can determine all these materials are identical, they are an aluminum oxide ceramic. If the crystalline structure is just so, and this occurs in the earth I believe from gradual crystallization, you get transparent material like sapphire. Same thing, chemically.

If there were an off-gassing or chemical instability problem they would not work for their intended purpose, which is precise analytical chemistry at extreme temperatures. You can torch them to bright red hot (and beyond), to clean them, and they come back ready for more. Rock solid ;-)

FWIW e-bay vendor Keepitmovin13 is very reliable, 2-3 day delivery.

 

[elmoe420]

@elmoe420 as far as I can determine all these materials are identical, they are an aluminum oxide ceramic. If the crystalline structure is just so, this occurs in the earth I believe from gradual crystallization, you get transparent material like sapphire. Same thing, chemically.

If there were an off-gassing or chemical instability problem they would not work for their intended purpose, which is precise analytical chemistry at extreme temperatures. You can torch them to bright red hot (and beyond), to clean them, and they come back ready for more. Rock solid ;-)

FWIW e-bay vendor Keepitmovin13 is very reliable, 2-3 day delivery.

Thanks ordered a few can't wait to try this!