Divine Tribe atty's

[Volteric]

Can anyone help where do i order?
Is there FC code
Is there a newer model coming out.
I'm new to tc mod box i want to try herb cart & oil
Do they come in black
TIA

I'd recommend starting at www.ineedhemp.com

I am super impressed with the version 2.7 I've never had such clean and cool hits from a portable than this. Im hoping a temp control mod will help me experience better flavor but I'm new to wax so I'm trying to see if they are similar to flower. Some flower is super tasty and some not so much so I figure it's probably a feature of the wax I'm getting??

@divinetribe Maybe a dumb question but how would I know if I "cracked" my atty? If it's reading 7-9 ohms I'm assuming it's still good regardless of char I can't get off??

 

[Steven]

hi guys,, my reasons are simple, I am in this for the long haul. the v3 is not the endgame, neither was the iphone 3, i am happy where i am in life, money comes and money goes.

few things about the v3, it will be 3 sizes, and have a additional dry herb attachment.. I am going to patent it. It's going to cost more but i will have a wholesale deal for all FC users and past customers but I will need to charge more so I can pay for things to expand and get these out.
my biggest gripe about pre v3 was the glue that fastens the ceramic to the metal base and that it is not rebuildable that is why I left tthe v2.5/7 open source to see if anyone would of built off that design.

I am ready to off gas test the v3, once i do I am going to be 100% behind it, i used the 2.5 and 2.7 daily until i got this last proto v3. I am hoping for july 10 for the v3-L. it always takes longer , they give me timelines and break them but it's always for a good reason in the end ..

you can sign up early for a email announcement with link to buy the v3 for a discount once it is released www.ineedhemp.com not sure what i am going to charge but the wholesale cost is what FC people will be getting it for I want to really hook up the community that has gotten me here., the retail on my site will be double or more that price so when you go to sell and they look up my site our prices will match. I hope this inspires more people to sell my product and get it out there, right now my wholesale is so close to my retail it gives no incentive for anyone to sell. I need to raise the retail price to create this room. I will also offer my longtime fans on here opportunities if they desire. by keeping my prices low for the last couple years i was able to create a brand that is trusted by the market which I think is important.



https://www.medicaljane.com/2014/07...future-of-terpene-rich-cannabis-concentrates/
Does anyone ever get high terpene concentrates? feel free to share some pics, if you want to know what i use , I like to post pics of it on instagram. some Kosher Kush on my IG account. Terpsugar
https://www.instagram.com/p/BGKYrRQwbFQ/?taken-by=divinetribe

Replies like this just shows everyone glimpses of how humble Matt really is. It's true it's a shame his products are not more well known. But at the same time his reasonable prices are such a draw as well. Track record shows this thing works and only improves over time so I don't mind paying a bit more in the future to support Matt in his endeavors. Too often I see other atomizers and such are so unreasonably overly priced. Matt is definitely the people's champ in the industry. Can't wait to get my lips around that v3

@Volteric just my 2 cents in case Matt is too busy. The char is normal. It might be a combo of overheating and poor quality wax but I don't think complete char avoidance is possible if you want a reasonable hit. Your resistance range if u meant 0.7-0.9 then yes you are good. You can remove that char by letting the donut glow a bit longer before you kill the power. Just do this carefully because leave it red for too long and it may degrade or even crack the donut. Even better yet read my post on cleaning. I get my donut white everytime. My guess is u have oil trapped inside the atty so even when u turn upside down to clean, oil will basically drip through the lead hole and end up burned from the high heat of cleaning, creating char. This is why agitation really helps with the flow of emptying oil

 

[Volteric]

@Vape Donkey 650 or whomever knows...

Hello. Quick question: Would this be the right battery for the Pico mod and will it charge inside the unit when plugged in?

 

[PoopMachine]

Went out and got a Cuboid Mini. The eLeaf didn't seem to be able to consistently keep temperature. Can someone help me out with settings to get going?

 

[Steven]

Went out and got a Cuboid Mini. The eLeaf didn't seem to be able to consistently keep temperature. Can someone help me out with settings to get going?

I don't have a cuboid mini but my mod shares the same chip. Here is a video of a user's guide for ur cuboid

Many people here like to use tcr mode of a range from 235-255 I think. From here set your Wattage to 12-12.5w and a temp of 390-420F. It's really your preference and what you prioritize in a hit to determine the exact setting. As a reference I use tcr 245, 12.5w, 420F. I probably use a hotter temp than many. I never use this thing dry, it's always paired with a hydratube.

@Vape Donkey 650 or whomever knows...

Hello. Quick question: Would this be the right battery for the Pico mod and will it charge inside the unit when plugged in?

I can't tell if that's it but I think a continuous high drain of at least 20 or 25a is recommended but that is the right sized battery. Also, I don't have a Pico but I'd it has a mini USB plug then I'm sure it will recharge will in the mod. However, I suggest you use an external charger to maximize the life of your batteries. Wish I can help more but I don't have the Pico. It's a nice little mod but I don't like the power button on that thing. Also Matt sells batteries @ ineedhemp.com for really cheap if you need them. Goodluck

 

[Volteric]

Here's my little on the go pack. At a convention I went in the bathroom stall and re-loaded with 45-60 seconds. Done.

 

[lomein07]

Many people here like to use tcr mode of a range from 235-255 I think. From here set your Wattage to 12-12.5w and a temp of 390-420F. It's really your preference and what you prioritize in a hit to determine the exact setting. As a reference I use tcr 245, 12.5w, 420F. I probably use a hotter temp than many. I never use this thing dry, it's always paired with a hydr

Great info, it does seem like everyone has personal favorite settings. I have found that different concentrates need different settings (wax, shatter, live resin, etc). It makes sense since they all have different viscosities and thus melting/vaporizing points.

I'm currently vaping some live resin at TCR 245, 350F, 9.9W. My atomizer is locked in at 0.73ohms. It takes about 3 seconds to reach temp protection, and after 10 seconds I have a nice low temp flavorful hit. Live resin seems to melt much faster and at a lower temp.

I'm more of a low temp session style guy, rather than a giant cloud instant hit guy.

 

[PoopMachine]

I cant seem to find this TCR 245 mode. I just have TCR 1, 2 and 3. What am I missing?

Nevermind, found it. Still getting underwhelming performance out of this box. Should I have updated the firmware out of the box?

 

[Steven]

I cant seem to find this TCR 245 mode. I just have TCR 1, 2 and 3. What am I missing?

Nevermind, found it. Still getting underwhelming performance out of this box. Should I have updated the firmware out of the box?

Play with the setting and experiment. That's the best way to dial it in for yourself. Just remember to lock the resistance once using in tcr. Also once the atty is on and everything is set up cycle to Wattage mode and tcr mode to see if the resistance matches up. Wattage mode will read the actual resistance of your atty. Locking in resistance in any of the tc modes will often times read the locked ohms instead of the actual ohms. To reset this, many times I must put a new atomizer on then put the original atty back on to reset the resistance. Other times removing the atomizers while it's resistance is unlocked works too. Also it is a bit wierd, but sometimes I use a fresh atty and it needs to be broken in or something. Like it needs a few loads before it really starts hitting strong. Hope this helps. Stick with it though, once you find your sweet spot, this thing is unrivaled

 

[Volteric]

So I'm newer to wax so I'm curious if it's been wasted when it collects on the splash guard? I understand it can be reclaimed but it doesn't seem to collect much so I'm wondering if by cleaning it it's truly a waste of wax?

 

[PoopMachine]

Play with the setting and experiment. That's the best way to dial it in for yourself. Just remember to lock the resistance once using in tcr. Also once the atty is on and everything is set up cycle to Wattage mode and tcr mode to see if the resistance matches up. Wattage mode will read the actual resistance of your atty. Locking in resistance in any of the tc modes will often times read the locked ohms instead of the actual ohms. To reset this, many times I must put a new atomizer on then put the original atty back on to reset the resistance. Other times removing the atomizers while it's resistance is unlocked works too. Also it is a bit wierd, but sometimes I use a fresh atty and it needs to be broken in or something. Like it needs a few loads before it really starts hitting strong. Hope this helps. Stick with it though, once you find your sweet spot, this thing is unrivaled

I just feel like Im nowhere near where everyone else is number wise and Im barely getting any vapor production.

I updated the firmware to the latest version on the Cuboid Mini this morning. Using TCR 1 at 245, Im at 12W, my coil is at .67ohms and locked and my temperature is at 390. Ive played with it anywhere from 290 to 390 and gotten little to no vapor production.

I just switched to the shallow atomizer and Im going to try that one. Maybe Ill have better luck with that one.

 

[Steven]

I just feel like Im nowhere near where everyone else is number wise and Im barely getting any vapor production.

I updated the firmware to the latest version on the Cuboid Mini this morning. Using TCR 1 at 245, Im at 12W, my coil is at .67ohms and locked and my temperature is at 390. Ive played with it anywhere from 290 to 390 and gotten little to no vapor production.

I just switched to the shallow atomizer and Im going to try that one. Maybe Ill have better luck with that one.

What sized loads are you packing. This is a load as you go type of atty. Each load should be about a BB size or about the size of that little ball at the end of needles used in sewing. The bb sized load should be carefully placed on the center hole of the donut where it will be cradled. If you are not doing this already, try to keep the atty leveled when hitting. After a few loads and you are still not getting vapor, u might want to remove the atty and check the tiny airlines where the threads are for leaks. If settings are dialed in you shouldn't get leaks. I never ever get leaks, but sometimes get them at first with new attys for some reason.

Also, when the atty is freshly cleaned, how does the donut look after finishing a BB sized load. The first load on a fresh donut should leave the donut looking fairly white. If you see that the donut isn't fairly white and there is reclaim left on it, you might want to try higher temps. You should also try raising temp to get more vapor if that's more of a priority for you in a hit. I myself use 12.5w at 420F with an atty at 0.80 ohms

Edit

Also it's noteworthy to mention how long your hits are. At 12-12.5w, vapor doesn't really begin until 4-5 seconds. I recycle the power button 4-5 times so that's not an issue for me. If you have shorter hits, an increased power in watts may help produce vapor quicker. Some people use like 20-25w I think. I have never done this so I can't recommend it. Just know that whatever Wattage you set in any of the tc modes, the mod will use that Wattage set to flash the atty initially, then adjust from there to achieved set temperature. Ime 20-25w on the donut in Wattage mode is very dangerous for the atty. In fact, anything above 15 is risky on a fresh donut. That being said, there r many that make it work just fine with higher Wattage settings. I just don't know how long their attys last. Could be totally not an issue for all I know since it's really only being flashed a high Wattage momentarily.

 

[Volteric]

What sized loads are you packing. This is a load as you go type of atty. Each load should be about a BB size or about the size of that little ball at the end of needles used in sewing. The bb sized load should be carefully placed on the center hole of the donut where it will be cradled. If you are not doing this already, try to keep the atty leveled when hitting. After a few loads and you are still not getting vapor, u might want to remove the atty and check the tiny airlines where the threads are for leaks. If settings are dialed in you shouldn't get leaks. I never ever get leaks, but sometimes get them at first with new attys for some reason.

Also, when the atty is freshly cleaned, how does the donut look after finishing a BB sized load. The first load on a fresh donut should leave the donut looking fairly white. If you see that the donut isn't fairly white and there is reclaim left on it, you might want to try higher temps. You should also try raising temp to get more vapor if that's more of a priority for you in a hit. I myself use 12.5w at 420F with an atty at 0.80 ohms

You're describing how I'm loading my 2.7 atty but no matter how much I'd like that bb to stay in the center it always melts off into the outer rim and no matter how hard I try a lot of it spatters up into the mouthpiece and up on the rim of the atty. Am I missing anything or should all this be expected ?

 

[Steven]

You're describing how I'm loading my 2.7 atty but no matter how much I'd like that bob to stay in the center it always melts off into the outer rim and no matter how hard I try a lot of it spatters up into the mouthpiece and up on the rim of the atty. Am I missing anything or should all this be expected ?

The wax melting to the rim of the donut is normal and completely fine(not sure if this is what you meant by rim). It's there for another hit if you want probably. The splash on the cap is another thing. I really do think most people need to train or adjust the way they draw in air while hitting this thing or any bong, it's the same idea. I get little to no residue on my caps and my hits are about 1 minute long. If your hits are 10 seconds, odds are you are hitting it too hard. If you run out of lung capacity to draw anymore air in within 10 seconds then you are probably drawing in too much volume of air per second. Slow and lower the intensity of your draw and this will naturally increase the overall hit time. The longer time allows the donut to heat up and milk.

When you draw hard, there will be tension in you lungs and intercostal muscles. That tension feeling is a sign you are drawing too hard. A nice smooth steady hit should not give you that slight tension feeling in your chest and neck, air should feel like it's flowing in. This is definitely a common problem because my cap is always clean until I have a session with friends. And they are always perplexed at why I blow out so much more vapor than them

If lung capacity is really the issue, try pre melting the wax a but before hitting. From there at least try to hit it light the first 4 seconds or so and then draw as desired

 

[OF]

Using TCR 1 at 245, Im at 12W, my coil is at .67ohms and locked and my temperature is at 390. Ive played with it anywhere from 290 to 390 and gotten little to no vapor production.

Sounds like you're mostly there then, just too cold? No concentrate I know is going to give much under 300F. I'd try running the temperature up a bit and see if that suits you but I wouldn't expect much under 350F, IMO 390 is just getting started for the tastes of some/many.

Keep an eye on the power too as you raise temperature, if it struggles 'making temperature' you might have to load less or bump it up half a Watt or so?

Hang in there, it will work once you sort it out. We're not all lying..........

OF

 

[PoopMachine]

Sounds like you're mostly there then, just too cold? No concentrate I know is going to give much under 300F. I'd try running the temperature up a bit and see if that suits you but I wouldn't expect much under 350F, IMO 390 is just getting started for the tastes of some/many.

Keep an eye on the power too as you raise temperature, if it struggles 'making temperature' you might have to load less or bump it up half a Watt or so?

Hang in there, it will work once you sort it out. We're not all lying..........

OF

Oh I didnt figure you guys were and I really had better luck with the eLeaf... I just expected stellar results from the Cuboid Mini and it was kind of disappointing. Im sticking with it. Im still my time between the Omicron and the DT setup.

 

[Volteric]

The wax melting to the rim of the donut is normal and completely fine(not sure if this is what you meant by rim). It's there for another hit if you want probably. The splash on the cap is another thing. I really do think most people need to train or adjust the way they draw in air while hitting this thing or any bong, it's the same idea. I get little to no residue on my caps and my hits are about 1 minute long. If your hits are 10 seconds, odds are you are hitting it too hard. If you run out of lung capacity to draw anymore air in within 10 seconds then you are probably drawing in too much volume of air per second. Slow and lower the intensity of your draw and this will naturally increase the overall hit time. The longer time allows the donut to heat up and milk.

When you draw hard, there will be tension in you lungs and intercostal muscles. That tension feeling is a sign you are drawing too hard. A nice smooth steady hit should not give you that slight tension feeling in your chest and neck, air should feel like it's flowing in. This is definitely a common problem because my cap is always clean until I have a session with friends. And they are always perplexed at why I blow out so much more vapor than them

If lung capacity is really the issue, try pre melting the wax a but before hitting. From there at least try to hit it light the first 4 seconds or so and then draw as desired

Sipping works phenomenally well and it keeps it from spattering up into mouthpiece. Thanks.

 

[OF]

Oh I didnt figure you guys were and I really had better luck with the eLeaf... I just expected stellar results from the Cuboid Mini and it was kind of disappointing. Im sticking with it. Im still my time between the Omicron and the DT setup.

By 'with the eLeaf' I assume you mean the TC40W in VW mode? Makes sense if my 'too cold' theory is right. If, however, you mean the eLeaf TC100W you should get identical results in TC mode as with the Pico, VTC Mini, Cuboid, RX200 and all the rest of this new breed of TC mods using TCR to control heat. There are basically only two 'chip sets' it seems (sets of features therefore), and they are closely related. Joytech is on top of it all, or so it seems.

Omicron is a very different and IMO more crude system. You deliver more or less fixed power so the temperature depends critically on the load. As it runs dryer in the hit (or as it ages, or feeds slower.....) it's going to burn the residual concentrate. If it floods (as can easily happen on the higher power carts) you can lack the power to get going well. That is the larger than normal load 'heat sinks' more power away. And Omicron carts eventually die of 'scabbing over' with the ash of the contamination in the load as the good stuff evaporates away. A gram or two is enough to seriously compromise most Omicron carts with no practical way to clean them. Not so DT with TC control. All those control issues go away, the oil never fails to reach the right temperature and never burns (within reason.....), you can easily and effectively clean one 'good as new' anytime you wish. Vapor is easier to produce, in predictable volumes and never 'gets harsh' or runs away on it's own. Oh, yeah, they also don't tend to flood/jam unless you overfeed. By all means take the time to find out what we all like about this system, dollars to doughnuts you won't be using your Omicrons. You will be rewarded when you make it to the Palace of True Enlightenment. It's just a bit further up the Road to Excess.......

I'm looking at a bundle of seven loaded carts each in it's 'Doob Tube'. No 6 (each with a 510 adapter) and spare adapters in the seventh tube. I've got one Omicron cart still in service on my Omicron Light (some lovely Sour Diesel I can't seem to leave alone). One of the Perseies (what's the plural of a made up word???) has a KISS cart I haven't used since I found the DT. Which I think is cool. Bet it happens to you, too.

OF

 

[Steven]

Sipping works phenomenally well and it keeps it from spattering up into mouthpiece. Thanks.

Np problem. I'm glad the tips worked out for you. I freakin love this this too. I recently got source's new coiless nail atomizer because I have a gift card I've been sitting in for tears and they had a 50% off Sale. I had high hopes for this thing but I was surely let down when it arrived. It's actually very good in theory, but other problems arise while some are fixed.
I took the coil apart and low and behold, there's a ceramic donut very close resembling to the dt donut. Not just in looks, but in behavior. Their coil is basically either a glass, ceramic, or titanium cup on top of a dt donut. This way, the coil is unexpired to any material, but on the other hand, it basically needs to be superheated to use regularly.

After this experience I realize I was a fool to embark on a source venture. Not trying to bash but my experience with their products pale in comparison with my dt atty hydratube combo.

 

[OF]

After this experience I realize I was a fool to embark on a source venture. Not trying to bash but my experience with their products pale in comparison with my dt atty hydratube combo.

Thanks for the wave off. I read it as 'if you are happy with DT, you will find faults'? At least you got the lesson at a reduced price.........

Such opinions (backed up well) are very useful IMO. One of the chief functions of the Forum IMO.

Thanks again, it makes sense to me as described. I don't need to try it personally.

OF

 

[PoopMachine]

By 'with the eLeaf' I assume you mean the TC40W in VW mode? Makes sense if my 'too cold' theory is right. If, however, you mean the eLeaf TC100W you should get identical results in TC mode as with the Pico, VTC Mini, Cuboid, RX200 and all the rest of this new breed of TC mods using TCR to control heat. There are basically only two 'chip sets' it seems (sets of features therefore), and they are closely related. Joytech is on top of it all, or so it seems.

Omicron is a very different and IMO more crude system. You deliver more or less fixed power so the temperature depends critically on the load. As it runs dryer in the hit (or as it ages, or feeds slower.....) it's going to burn the residual concentrate. If it floods (as can easily happen on the higher power carts) you can lack the power to get going well. That is the larger than normal load 'heat sinks' more power away. And Omicron carts eventually die of 'scabbing over' with the ash of the contamination in the load as the good stuff evaporates away. A gram or two is enough to seriously compromise most Omicron carts with no practical way to clean them. Not so DT with TC control. All those control issues go away, the oil never fails to reach the right temperature and never burns (within reason.....), you can easily and effectively clean one 'good as new' anytime you wish. Vapor is easier to produce, in predictable volumes and never 'gets harsh' or runs away on it's own. Oh, yeah, they also don't tend to flood/jam unless you overfeed. By all means take the time to find out what we all like about this system, dollars to doughnuts you won't be using your Omicrons. You will be rewarded when you make it to the Palace of True Enlightenment. It's just a bit further up the Road to Excess.......

I'm looking at a bundle of seven loaded carts each in it's 'Doob Tube'. No 6 (each with a 510 adapter) and spare adapters in the seventh tube. I've got one Omicron cart still in service on my Omicron Light (some lovely Sour Diesel I can't seem to leave alone). One of the Perseies (what's the plural of a made up word???) has a KISS cart I haven't used since I found the DT. Which I think is cool. Bet it happens to you, too.

OF

Im sure it will, Im just baffled why numbers and settings since like you said, there are only two chipsets, dont even seem to be close to what you guys are using. Either way, Im going to stay with it and order a couple more just in case I fry the ones I have. I had found I prefer the shallow one but that may be only because Ive gotten closer to dialing it in with the shallow one.

And you are right, they clean up really easy. I cleaned mine up yesterday and it looks brand new.

 

[OF]

Either way, Im going to stay with it and order a couple more just in case I fry the ones I have. I had found I prefer the shallow one but that may be only because Ive gotten closer to dialing it in with the shallow one.

You'll get there. The keys are using a TCR value around 245 (I use M2 but any of the 'M settings' can be used as long as the TCR value entered for it is close to 245. That will make the displayed temperature close to right (start with 390F). The other key is setting the power limit to 12 Watts. When set that way it's near impossible to 'fry one'.

The doughnuts are the same, I think the big difference between the styles is that while the shallow is easier to load, it also splatters more. Some concentrates seem to splatter less than others.

Regards,

OF

 

[Volteric]

Alrighty, I ordered the eLeaf Pico mod. It seems obvious to me that the minivolt watts only battery is combusting the wax and it's near impossible to figure out how to best optimize it. Seems too dependent on load size, draw speed and time, etc. Sincerely hope temp control will be easy breezy and make a difference in flavor, etc.

If my readout says .7-.9 ohms on the minivolt does that mean I haven't cracked the donut?? Or what obvious sign do I look for to know I fried it?

 

[PoopMachine]

You'll get there. The keys are using a TCR value around 245 (I use M2 but any of the 'M settings' can be used as long as the TCR value entered for it is close to 245. That will make the displayed temperature close to right (start with 390F). The other key is setting the power limit to 12 Watts. When set that way it's near impossible to 'fry one'.

The doughnuts are the same, I think the big difference between the styles is that while the shallow is easier to load, it also splatters more. Some concentrates seem to splatter less than others.

Regards,

OF

The Dr Dabber Budder Cutter makes loading those things really easy. Just scrape some up, pulse the button on the handle and the stuff just runs off the tip into the atomizer. I really dont know how I did without this thing.

Im at 420 degrees and 12.5 watts now and Im actually getting decent vapor production. Ill back the wattage back down to 12 tho.

 

[Steven]

The Dr Dabber Budder Cutter makes loading those things really easy. Just scrape some up, pulse the button on the handle and the stuff just runs off the tip into the atomizer. I really dont know how I did without this thing.

Im at 420 degrees and 12.5 watts now and Im actually getting decent vapor production. Ill back the wattage back down to 12 tho.

The budder cutter thing does look interesting. Maybe I'll get one later on for fun, but I got a few things on my shopping list. I actually spend a little time to preroll my bb sized loads so loading isn't too hard for me. Glad to hear you are getting more satisfying vapor. Just for your peace of mind I have been using tcr 245 at 420f at 12.5w on a fresh atty that is going on strong over 5 months. If you feel 12w is a downgrade in anyway, 12.5w shouldn't be an issue of any kind