David Goldstein's Fritted Disc

[jambandphan03]

Ah, good point... just daydreaming... and wanted to pass that bit of info along about them patenting the HT.

Rooster, if you have any hash oil or can easily make some w/ iso, use it, put it on your burn....smear a thick layer, and bandage it up. It will speed up the healing process.

Watch Run From The Cure if you have a couple of hours to pass...
http://www.youtube.com/user/chrychek?feature=results_main

 

[Slightly Medicated]

I know I hate to sound like a buzz kill. I think there is a way it could be done. I don't think it would end up looking like the typical HydraTube though.

I was going to mention I use Calendula cream as well. That stuff kicks ass. I like Abundantly Herbal brand.

http://www.amazon.com/Arbordoun-Abundantly-Herbal-Calendula-Cream/dp/B00016XJ8S/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1342407624&sr=8-3&keywords=calendula cream

Also Makuna Honey is great for burns and skin rashes. You want it to be Makuna Honey.

http://www.amazon.com/Wedderspoon-Organic-Manuka-Active-17-6-Ounce/dp/B000VK08OC/ref=sr_1_cc_1?s=aps&ie=UTF8&qid=1342407658&sr=1-1-catcorr&keywords=Makuna Honey

I need to look up the stuff you are using. It sounds interesting. Some of the Chinese remedies are pretty great.

 

[VapeNStone]

You would have to make a fritt with a whole in the middle and connect it that way some how.

 

[t-dub]

You would have to make a fritt with a whole in the middle and connect it that way some how.

Yes, my thinking as well, a "fritted ring" or "doughnut" would work . . .

 

[The Rooster.]

I do not think a Fritted Hydra Tube would work. It would not work sitting on top of the device, water would be able to get into the cloud too easily. It would have to sit off to the side. I kind of thought about this concept... hard to explain. It would be better if I could draw it out. I can't think of a very easy way to make it work sitting on top of the device.

Edit: I drew it out. I hope that makes more sense. I feel like it would not work sitting on top of the cloud, because there would be no way to create a secure chamber that would prevent splashing. Maybe I am wrong, and someone has an idea that would work?

The left is the DG Style Fritted HydraTube on top of the Cloud. The left is how I think it would have to work in order to prevent any leaking into the cloud. The red lines are the fritted disk section.

idk. somebody's gonna have to show me the real thing. seems easier to just use it upside down like in the vid? I'm ignorant until someone educates me. Them I'm educated.

 

[MarcellusWiley]

idk. somebody's gonna have to show me the real thing. seems easier to just use it upside down like in the vid? I'm ignorant until someone educates me. Them I'm educated.

Well the idea of the "hydratube" design, is to have the cloud's male joint fit directly into the straight tube that goes right into your mouth. more like the first look in his picture. this is what most of the hydratubes look like now (except they are made with a perc design that wouldnt allow water to go down into the vaporizer through the joint. as the above posters mentioned, you'd probably need a hole in the middle of the frit disc or some other design to allow a disc to work in a hydratube.

 

[Slightly Medicated]

I figured it out...

Red = Fritted Disk
Yellow = Airflow
Blue = dihydrogen monoxide
Green = Text

The lightest grey is the 19mm Male glass that sticks out of the cloud.
The Medium Grey on top of the lightest grey is the glass HydraTube.

Also some general tweaks to the drawing I would make. The disk is around. I should have drawn the part where the disk would attach better. The right side should protrude/slope out like the left so that it can fit a circular disk.


You would have to have two separate chambers. The bottom one would be an empty dry chamber. There would be a glass stem that went from the bottom chamber up to the past the top chamber, and then bent and came back down. From that point on it would work much like a regular DG fritt piece. Even as the water settled, it would not go up and over the 90 degree bend. I hope the drawing was good enough, and made some sense.

 

[Stu]

Why not go up through the middle and avoid the wraparound arm?

 

[Slightly Medicated]

Why not go up through the middle and avoid the wraparound arm?

It would be really hard to cut a hole in the disk and weld it to the inside and outside glass. I will draw out what I think you want though.

Like this?

 

[Stu]

exactly

 

[Slightly Medicated]

I think the design is simpler... but I think the execution would be more difficult then doing a wraparound arm. I am not sure it would even be possible. Maybe David could chime in on how difficult that would be, or if it is feasible.

 

[Seek]

SliM: Disk percs can't be made into simple HTs. If you want the whole disk it can be achieved only by going in from outside - inverted. You already drawed one pic of that kind, where iot has gone up outside in a tube and back down into the tube into the disk. Another idea is whole inverted ht, which imo looks bulky.

Another idea is to make it like other ht's, so it would be frittted ring, not disk. Which you already figured out too in the last pic.

So overall, the best idea to use disk percs with the Cloud is the Cloud being upside down, trying to design a disk HT will always result in big, complex, funny and ugly glass piece.

 

[VapeNStone]

Hey I was just checking one of my pieces and it says roosterapparatus.com on it instead of glasshookup.com? When I check for roosterapparatus.com it doesn't exsist?

 

[ilovebOObs]

i would love to get a DG with female joint.

 

[Dabblesauce]

Hey Y'all,

Been following this thread for a few days now, and I'm loving this shit. Great videos and pics, Its all been very helpful to my research for a new piece.

So I'm in the market for a dedicated oil rig, and the DG mini can w/ fritted disc is on the top of my list. The only thing holding me back from buying it is the cleaning/keeping it clean aspect.

I am NOT going to be using this piece for flowers at all. But even for errls, it seems like some of the pores in the fritted disc would eventually clog with oil recycle, and would be tough to get out with the usual iso/salt. I want the disc to always work at 100%, so down the line I would be bummed if the disc started to diffuse less and less due to blockage.

Im all for keeping my pieces clean, so I have no issue with washing it regularly. But even with regular washing, Im a bit worried that the near microscopic size of all of the holes in the fritted would become filled with oil residue, and salt/iso wouldnt be able sufficient enough to clean it out. I only use water in my pieces, not rez block or any other water alternatives.

Also, I dab straight off of a ti nail. I do not use the vaporizer attachments seen in some of the videos/posts on this thread. I don't plan on buying a vaporizer attachment anytime soon. I realize that oil residue/clogging might not be as much of an issue with a vape attachment, but if I were to only use the DG fritted mini can with a ti nail setup... what about residue build up/clogging then?

I would really appreciate some feedback on this matter. (Note , i only have had time to read thru pages 1-20 of this thread so If I missed something please let me know, Thanks!)

 

[Slightly Medicated]

Hey Y'all,

Been following this thread for a few days now, and I'm loving this shit. Great videos and pics, Its all been very helpful to my research for a new piece.

So I'm in the market for a dedicated oil rig, and the DG mini can w/ fritted disc is on the top of my list. The only thing holding me back from buying it is the cleaning/keeping it clean aspect.

I am NOT going to be using this piece for flowers at all. But even for errls, it seems like some of the pores in the fritted disc would eventually clog with oil recycle, and would be tough to get out with the usual iso/salt. I want the disc to always work at 100%, so down the line I would be bummed if the disc started to diffuse less and less due to blockage.

Im all for keeping my pieces clean, so I have no issue with washing it regularly. But even with regular washing, Im a bit worried that the near microscopic size of all of the holes in the fritted would become filled with oil residue, and salt/iso wouldnt be able sufficient enough to clean it out. I only use water in my pieces, not rez block or any other water alternatives.

I would really appreciate some feedback on this matter. (Note , i only have had time to read thru pages 1-20 of this thread so If I missed something please let me know, Thanks!)

t-dub turned me on to something a few pages back called MPS. Monopersulphate... I have been using that with amazing success. My fritted disk is getting back to showroom floor fresh. I make sure to do a extra long like 3-4 min hot water flush to really get the chemical out of the disk and the water pipe. It comes out pretty much as good as new. It might be the answer you are looking for.

http://www.spadepot.com/shop/Oxy-Spa-2lb-Non-chlorine-MPS-Shock-P93C47.aspx

Edit: This is a serious chemical... please read up on it before you throw it in your water pipe. You want to make sure to completely flush it from your water pipe. Inhaling this stuff is not good for you.

 

[jambandphan03]

I Iso wash mine with 99%, and reclaim the Iso/oil. Then wash out with hot water, every couple of days, and it's staying really clean.

 

[ilovebOObs]

having a cork and stopper makes cleaning hella easier for me.

 

[t-dub]

t-dub turned me on to something a few pages back called MPS. Monopersulphate... I have been using that with amazing success. My fritted disk is getting back to showroom floor fresh. I make sure to do a extra long like 3-4 min hot water flush to really get the chemical out of the disk and the water pipe. It comes out pretty much as good as new. It might be the answer you are looking for.

http://www.spadepot.com/shop/Oxy-Spa-2lb-Non-chlorine-MPS-Shock-P93C47.aspx

Thanks for the acknowledgement, I appreciate it. I will say this: I was using the MPS in high concentrations last night and I could watch the bubbles "fizzzzz" as they came off the resin in my SGW HT. Just like when you put hydrogen peroxide on a wound and it bubbles, I was actually watching the oxidation of the resins happen. Using chemicals in these concentrations is dangerous and should not be done unless you know what you are doing. I'm going to make a cleaning video eventually but I have to balance info/safety and totally refine my procedure

 

[Slightly Medicated]

Using chemicals in these concentrations is dangerous and should not be done unless you know what you are doing. I'm going to make a cleaning video eventually but I have to balance info/safety and totally refine my procedure

I second this statement. I am going to go back and edit my original statement too. I think people should read up on the chemical and decide if they feel like they can use it safely. You do not want to have any residual MPS in your pipe. Inhaling it can be very bad for your lungs. It is a skin, eye, and lung irritant. Some poeple who are really weary of bad chemicals might want to avoid using it completely. The fear that you might not wash it all out, could be enough to turn off some poeple. My tap water can get up to 200F, so it is close to boiling. I make sure to flush it for an entire 3-4 minutes. If I can smell anything remotely chemical I will do a rinse with ISO and then another 3-4 minute flush.

This is one of those things you really should read up on before you just follow my recommendation.

He is right though about the oxidization. You can see it working it's magic. I know it is "done" when the liquid goes from white to clear, then all of the powder has oxidized.

 

[t-dub]

He is right though about the oxidization. You can see it working it's magic. I know it is "done" when the liquid goes from white to clear, then all of the powder has oxidized.

Its not after the fact I am worrying about with these chemicals, we can dilute them. Its during USE that they are dangerous . . splash eyes etc

 

[stickstones]

Good to see you back in form, boobs!

 

[MarcellusWiley]

FYI for anyone that is worried about cleaning this thing:

I vape, dab and combust out of it and I can get it clean as the day I bought it in like 5-10 minutes with hot water and iso/salt or grunge off/simple green. its not hard to clean!

it takes me 10x as long to clean any dual chamber piece I have, fritter is cake to clean

 

[Dabblesauce]

Thanks everyone for all of the cleaning tips/input. Looks like cleaning hasn't been an issue for anybody, good to hear!

Just was wondering about one more thing. Obviously the diffusion on the DG fritted is off the charts. My question is...with all of this diffusion, is any oil flavor lost due to too much diffusion? (compared to other oil rigs y'all have used).

Also with all of the bubbles/diffusion in the fritted, is there a chance that there is going to be more oil recycle/residue left inside the piece than say with other types of oil rigs? possibly making each hit a tiny bit less potent, than other oil rigs? I know this may sound nit picky, but I was just curious.

Thanks!

well here's what happened. My gf emailed him a few days ago about a custom fritted piece. Because I had heard about the 710 sale at NVS so I was just going to get a straight tube even though I hate straight tubes. I was going to do this because the can stacks so fucking good that it just stacks the whole can with bubbles and there is no area to let the vapor build up and I can't get as much of a kick in vapor as I would really ultimately like. So I was going to get a straight tube just because of the surface area. So back to the story, my gf contacted him to see if maybe we could just have him make me one rather than settling with something that I really didn't want. He seemed very nice over the emails and said that he really doesn't do much custom work, but wanted to hear what we were looking for. He stated that he sent out some glow in the dark fritters for 710 and said he could do something with that? I said I was more or less looking for a can style but needed a bigger can. Then the emails got to much back and forth so today I just decided to give the guy a call and here is how that call went down.

Just Curious about getting a solid hit off of the mini can, using a ti nail and globe setup. You said there were so many bubbles in the can, it prevented a good, solid milk? That is something that has crossed my mind when watching videos of DG mini can stacking. Are there so many bubbles that it prevents you from getting a good, solid, milky hit from a dab...or is it something that isnt really noticeable. Note: just talking about the mini can, not the other size tubes.

 

[VapeNStone]

Thanks everyone for all of the cleaning tips/input. Looks like cleaning hasn't been an issue for anybody, good to hear!

Just was wondering about one more thing. Obviously the diffusion on the DG fritted is off the charts. My question is...with all of this diffusion, is any oil flavor lost due to too much diffusion? (compared to other oil rigs y'all have used).

Also with all of the bubbles/diffusion in the fritted, is there a chance that there is going to be more oil recycle/residue left inside the piece than say with other types of oil rigs? possibly making each hit a tiny bit less potent, than other oil rigs? I know this may sound nit picky, but I was just curious.

Thanks!




Just Curious about getting a solid hit off of the mini can, using a ti nail and globe setup. You said there were so many bubbles in the can, it prevented a good, solid milk? That is something that has crossed my mind when watching videos of DG mini can stacking. Are there so many bubbles that it prevents you from getting a good, solid, milky hit from a dab...or is it something that isnt really noticeable. Note: just talking about the mini can, not the other size tubes.

I have since realized that my water was stacked way too high. I now fill my water to just barely under/on the disc itself and the disc pulls the water up and then keeps it up while you stack. therefore leaving more room to milk. But IMHO I still want a bigger can.