Concentrates for Noobs - Q&A
- Thread starter FlyingLow
- Start date
herbivore21
Well-Known Member
That's it man, seen so many reckless would be concentrate makers blowing up their kitchens and talking about it on gc. Safety must come first!
Caligula
Maximus
Can't do bho man. Live in a small apartment, no outdoor area. I know most solvents are fine to use so long as you purge properly
Isnt your entire country a big, dry, outdoor area?
herbivore21
Well-Known Member
The irony isn't lost on me mate 
Mr. Gweilo 420
Dude
Well I conducted another experiment over the weekend. I have been holding 8 grams of Nepalese Hash. It looks like this;
Ok so I know it sounds exotic and you might imagine this is really good hash. However, it is not. From time to time the quality is good but I suspect this has been mixed up with other "junk" in order to increase the weight. I have heard all kinds of rumours about what may be added but who knows? Anyway, I don't really like vaping it and it does not really get me very high. So I thought I would see if I could do a QWET run with it. Obviously it is already a concentrate but I though I could extract the goodness and get rid of the badness. I have heard of people doing a kind of wash with soap hash to eliminate the rubbish. I was also inspired by @herbivore21 who has been doing runs with kief.
Anyway, the first run I did the usual routine. Froze everything and then did 3 x wash/agitate and back in the freezer. For the second run I was much more aggressive. I did a vigorous shake and left it in the freezer for 2 minutes (3times). So here are the results;
The one on the left is the first run. As you can see the second run yielded considerably more oil. I feel longer exposure to the ethyl alcohol and strong agitation is necessary for extractions from hash.
Generally, I was happy with the results. I have a nice dab stash to play with and I know my next run is going to better still. I knew it would turn out to be a black goo as I was basically starting with black goo. I was kind of hoping for some black shatter (lol) but it was not to be. Perhaps the texture may have changed. From my last run with flowers the stuff that looked like a powdery/grainy kind of dust turned to more of an oil within 24 hours. I have no idea why.
Just a few other points. The biggest trouble I have it actually scraping my stuff off the plate. I am sure I am losing part of my yield through my ineffective method. Yesterday I put in an order for some Nogoo containers, a nogoo dab/scrape tool and a Nogoo plate. I am really hoping this makes things easier. Also, do you guys put your oil in the freezer/fridge at all? finally, any tips for handling the oil? Man it can be frustrating but it is worth it
Ok so I know it sounds exotic and you might imagine this is really good hash. However, it is not. From time to time the quality is good but I suspect this has been mixed up with other "junk" in order to increase the weight. I have heard all kinds of rumours about what may be added but who knows? Anyway, I don't really like vaping it and it does not really get me very high. So I thought I would see if I could do a QWET run with it. Obviously it is already a concentrate but I though I could extract the goodness and get rid of the badness. I have heard of people doing a kind of wash with soap hash to eliminate the rubbish. I was also inspired by @herbivore21 who has been doing runs with kief.
Anyway, the first run I did the usual routine. Froze everything and then did 3 x wash/agitate and back in the freezer. For the second run I was much more aggressive. I did a vigorous shake and left it in the freezer for 2 minutes (3times). So here are the results;
The one on the left is the first run. As you can see the second run yielded considerably more oil. I feel longer exposure to the ethyl alcohol and strong agitation is necessary for extractions from hash.
Generally, I was happy with the results. I have a nice dab stash to play with and I know my next run is going to better still. I knew it would turn out to be a black goo as I was basically starting with black goo. I was kind of hoping for some black shatter (lol) but it was not to be. Perhaps the texture may have changed. From my last run with flowers the stuff that looked like a powdery/grainy kind of dust turned to more of an oil within 24 hours. I have no idea why.
Just a few other points. The biggest trouble I have it actually scraping my stuff off the plate. I am sure I am losing part of my yield through my ineffective method. Yesterday I put in an order for some Nogoo containers, a nogoo dab/scrape tool and a Nogoo plate. I am really hoping this makes things easier. Also, do you guys put your oil in the freezer/fridge at all? finally, any tips for handling the oil? Man it can be frustrating but it is worth it
Macarrao
Member
Hello. First time poster. Have a question about heat curing my first ever QWISO batch.
From an oz of HQ indica, I got 3.5g from the first wash, 1.5 from the second wash, and 1g from the third wash (which was pretty nasty; not gooey like the other stuff but crispy and dark green. Oh well.)
So I started with my 2nd wash since it was already a manageable size to use with my candle warmer. It has a small ceramic dish that is part of but separate from it, and things were going well as I whipped it and removed it from the heat and put it back on. The small bubbles formed and a few big bubbles too so I whipped it again and after fifteen minutes of heat and whipping it got really taffy-like, but I decided to let it liquidize again just to get more bubbles of ISO out. I figured, you can't over do it if you still see bubbles. Well, I left it alone for another fifteen or twenty minutes and when I came back the room smelled very strongly, and it looked like my puddle of ooze was smaller. When I weighed the final product I found I lost a third (from 1.5g to 1g).
So I'm wondering if the weight lose is normal, or did I accidentally burn some of my product? I can't find out exactly how hot the candle warmer got, but google says the average candle warmer gets to be between 130-145 deg F. Most people say to keep it around 100 F when heat purging but I couldn't easily do that in my circumstances.
I suppose I'd be better off next time by doing this over a hot water bath and monitoring the temp, keeping it below 110F? Would I be able to purge it longer that way without burning away my material?
Thanks for you help.
From an oz of HQ indica, I got 3.5g from the first wash, 1.5 from the second wash, and 1g from the third wash (which was pretty nasty; not gooey like the other stuff but crispy and dark green. Oh well.)
So I started with my 2nd wash since it was already a manageable size to use with my candle warmer. It has a small ceramic dish that is part of but separate from it, and things were going well as I whipped it and removed it from the heat and put it back on. The small bubbles formed and a few big bubbles too so I whipped it again and after fifteen minutes of heat and whipping it got really taffy-like, but I decided to let it liquidize again just to get more bubbles of ISO out. I figured, you can't over do it if you still see bubbles. Well, I left it alone for another fifteen or twenty minutes and when I came back the room smelled very strongly, and it looked like my puddle of ooze was smaller. When I weighed the final product I found I lost a third (from 1.5g to 1g).
So I'm wondering if the weight lose is normal, or did I accidentally burn some of my product? I can't find out exactly how hot the candle warmer got, but google says the average candle warmer gets to be between 130-145 deg F. Most people say to keep it around 100 F when heat purging but I couldn't easily do that in my circumstances.
I suppose I'd be better off next time by doing this over a hot water bath and monitoring the temp, keeping it below 110F? Would I be able to purge it longer that way without burning away my material?
Thanks for you help.
@Mr. Gweilo 420 What was filtered out of the hash?
pigfoot
Dabs are vapor too!
It doesn't need to be accurate. It needs to give me repeatable numbers from which to go off of. Could say a billion degrees Kelvin and that's fine as long as it always says that when I get the temp where I want... and it's pretty consistent so far I must say.
I got tired of guessing with my quartz nail. Its been literally hit or miss his even when timing things exactly.
This temp sensor fits the bill for what I wanted, and works aces so far! It gives me a reading if around 700°F, I dab and it tastes great with little to no wasted material. Did that 3 in a row. Cant argue with it IMO... Although I guess I could just be getting lucky?
Heres my first test run. Id say it was successful! Feel free to turn the resolution up too.
Curious concentrate newb here. If vaping occurs around 375F, aren't those higher temps basically combusting the concentrate?
its the concept of flash vaping... but also you start out with a hotter nail because as you apply your concentrate to the nail it will pull heat out of the nail. so as you dab and as you pull air past the nail while hitting your piece you are dramatically and rapidly cooling the nail.
even plant matter vapes will suffer this issue... but its diffrent when its a nail becuase there is no real housing to help contain the heat and unless your using an enail of some type the use of the nail will cool it back to the point you have to reheat the nail. unless your using a huge thermal mass like a giant Ti nail... in which case they tend to retain heat longer.
yup... I feel like that was a confusing explanation
pigfoot
Dabs are vapor too!
No, that's kind of what I figured
Another question, is it best to stay away from a domeless male nail, especially Ti, because it can crack the female joint it's in? I've also been looking at the ceramic domeless.
I dont really know for sure, I use quartz. but I think if your worried about it, grab an adapter to protect your glass...No, that's kind of what I figured
Another question, is it best to stay away from a domeless male nail, especially Ti, because it can crack the female joint it's in? I've also been looking at the ceramic domeless.
I know there are Ti nails designed to specifically protect your glass, but alas I am not versed well in Ti nails ..
edit: as far as quartz I wouldnt be worried if you had a male joint nail like @Caligula has...
I think calig even had a male version of that domeless quartz nail.
the castle quartz has versions up to 18mm female and C2 customs has a daisy quartz domeless that will work in 14mm female joint
plus there are a bunch of others too.
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Like farscraper said quartz and boro won't expand and contract like titanium. With that being said I have never seen titanium break glass either. I would just use an adapter even if not totally necessary. You'd rather break an adapter than your piece!
As far as temp farscraper is right, Ti has a shitty retention. Ceramic will stay hot for the longest.
As far as temp farscraper is right, Ti has a shitty retention. Ceramic will stay hot for the longest.
063_XOBX
Ganjapreneur
It doesn't matter the nail config (domed or domeless). What matters is the joint, rigs have male joints because the Ti expands and contracts from the heat/cooling, which isn't a problem when the nail engulfs the joint but becomes one when the nail goes inside the joint like in a female GonG.
You can use a nail with a female GonG safely, you'd just need to heat the nail outside of the joint then put it in which is a bit of a hassle.
Not so much grokit - once you get Ti down it's super simple. Get it red hot, let it cool for a few seconds and you're good to go. It can be very consistent. Quartz and Glass are a little harder to judge as Quartz doesn't glow easily and they're both pretty hard to keep somewhat clean. E-nails are fantastic but I found having a 700 degree nail sitting around with 3 kids and 3 dogs can be more tricky than the good ole torch. 
And the gentleman above you is confusing me, you heat the male nail before putting into the glass? I've never seen anyone do that. And as I mention I've never seen anyone break their glass either using a male. I understand it was a precaution at one time but with newer T2 and T3 models the expansion rate is so minimal I don't think you have anything to worry about.
I would also stay away from no-name Ti nails on ebay. you never know how pure the titanium is and the last time I tried it the coating started to come off the bucket - NOT GOOD! That's the stuff you need to worry about.
And the gentleman above you is confusing me, you heat the male nail before putting into the glass? I've never seen anyone do that. And as I mention I've never seen anyone break their glass either using a male. I understand it was a precaution at one time but with newer T2 and T3 models the expansion rate is so minimal I don't think you have anything to worry about.
I would also stay away from no-name Ti nails on ebay. you never know how pure the titanium is and the last time I tried it the coating started to come off the bucket - NOT GOOD! That's the stuff you need to worry about.
Well I'm all set, I have my ssv oil kit, my vxc just needs a vxn,
and I have the boro nail/dome that came with my roor recycler along with some cheap boro nails.
Now all I need is access to some fucking concentrates!
this reminds me of a buddy of mine... had the whole harley outfit. boots jacket chaps gloves mask hell even had a helmet...
gave me shit about not doing it harley style.
as I throw a leg over the saddle of my bobbed sportster I ask what year and model he rides...
his reply was "I dont even know how to ride."
I just smiled, fired up the hog and rolled out.
the best for some isnt the best for all... thats all my point was.
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Only half. I'm thinking 200% fun.Having erl on hand is half the fun.
pigfoot
Dabs are vapor too!
Any suggestions for a dab rig? Or is it just the nail that matters? Not looking for "name brands" so much, I'll be buying more China glass I've seen recommendations for small over large, but then I see people using huge rigs for concentrate. I've seen recommendations for less diffusion to cut down on condensation, but others are using honeycombs etc? A lot of them come with male 14mm joints, but nails are available for all, so that doesn't make much difference. I used my D020 with the included glass nail/dome and it worked great. I'm gonna try a domeless next.
So I read this: "Yeah usually small pieces are "better" for oils because of less water needed and smaller size in general. Less water and diffusion is well-liked for oils because there isn't much to filter out from vaping oil. Too much water/diffusion can strip the taste from your oil."
The small nails are cheaper too. So now I am looking at this one:
http://www.dhgate.com/store/product/small-bong-mini-water-pipe-pocket-glass-bong/190893967.html
I've seen recommendations for small over large, but then I see people using huge rigs for concentrate. I've seen recommendations for less diffusion to cut down on condensation, but others are using honeycombs etc? A lot of them come with male 14mm joints, but nails are available for all, so that doesn't make much difference. I used my D020 with the included glass nail/dome and it worked great. I'm gonna try a domeless next.So I read this: "Yeah usually small pieces are "better" for oils because of less water needed and smaller size in general. Less water and diffusion is well-liked for oils because there isn't much to filter out from vaping oil. Too much water/diffusion can strip the taste from your oil."
The small nails are cheaper too. So now I am looking at this one:
http://www.dhgate.com/store/product/small-bong-mini-water-pipe-pocket-glass-bong/190893967.html
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Any suggestions for a dab rig? Or is it just the nail that matters? Not looking for "name brands" so much, I'll be buying more China glass
So I read this: "Yeah usually small pieces are "better" for oils because of less water needed and smaller size in general. Less water and diffusion is well-liked for oils because there isn't much to filter out from vaping oil. Too much water/diffusion can strip the taste from your oil."
The small nails are cheaper too. So now I am looking at this one:
http://www.dhgate.com/store/product/small-bong-mini-water-pipe-pocket-glass-bong/190893967.html
you can always check out the classified thread... some choice glass there from some fcers. sometimes you can even negotiate for a better deal here from people you sorta know?
pigfoot
Dabs are vapor too!
Yeah, but I am looking in the sub $50 range, not interested in $100 + pieces.you can always check out the classified thread... some choice glass there from some fcers. sometimes you can even negotiate for a better deal here from people you sorta know?