Collyland Aromatizer (formerly Vapbong by Art of Vapor)

Texus

Well-Known Member
I wanted to run this by you guys. Do you see how the coil is resting on the heater? I am not getting really good vapor while it's resting like this. It's really floppy and doesn't stay in place. Playing with the wire doesn't help. Is there anything I can put there so it doesn't move and stays in place? Something that wont burn lol.

As for my Bandit, the coil stays in place mostly. I had some trouble with it, but overall, it stays in place when I move it. It's not flaccid like the VB. I keep my temps at 10.4 on both devices and the Bandit outperforms the VB by a mile.

Well don't assume that 10.4 should work on the VB like it does on your Bandit. There is going to be some variation from unit to unit and device type to device type. I'd start by upping the voltage on the VB.

There are also other posts on this thread about the placement of the heater. But I am not where I can find them. Using the search function for this thread should do the job.
 

Shit Snacks

Milaana. Lana. LANA. LANAAAA! (TM2/TP80/BAK/FW9)
I wanted to run this by you guys. Do you see how the coil is resting on the heater? I am not getting really good vapor while it's resting like this. It's really floppy and doesn't stay in place. Playing with the wire doesn't help. Is there anything I can put there so it doesn't move and stays in place? Something that wont burn lol.

As for my Bandit, the coil stays in place mostly. I had some trouble with it, but overall, it stays in place when I move it. It's not flaccid like the VB. I keep my temps at 10.4 on both devices and the Bandit outperforms the VB by a mile.


You could share a photo of the other one, where you think it is more proper? Because really this should not matter at all for performance, and yes voltage level varies...
 

NimChimpsky

Well-Known Member
There are also other posts on this thread about the placement of the heater. But I am not where I can find them. Using the search function for this thread should do the job.
really this should not matter at all for performance
Yea I posted a pretty lengthy experiment I did several pages back that seems to be related to what @alleyhoops is experiencing. I originally thought it shouldn't matter much as @Shit Snacks suggests, but I found with my OAB changing this position (via the cord slack) made a significant difference in performance (where there was no slack/issue with my VB, like alley's OAB). I fixed my issue which I explain in the post but I highly recommend consulting with Collyland before trying anything I did, I am not suggesting AT ALL that what I did will be a proper solution for you (and I really can't emphasize enough how delicate I was with the procedure I outlined). The main point of me making the original post was to show that (at least in some cases) heater placement definitely can effect performance (or else what's the point of it being 'tuned' in the first place?)

Edit: I should add that by 'performance' all I mean is effective use of the heat. Even when my OAB heater was in the 'worse' position, I could still get just as good of results but it would take higher voltage levels (like over 12V pre adjustment to less than 11.5V after adjustment). Point being, it's not really a big issue either way and even if the heater position isn't optimal, you should still be able to get the results you want by raising the voltage a bit.
 
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jbm

Not a Vapman “beta tester”
I wanted to run this by you guys. Do you see how the coil is resting on the heater? I am not getting really good vapor while it's resting like this. It's really floppy and doesn't stay in place.
I opened a ticket with Collyland about this issue when I got my OAB. I asked whether I should try to move the coil towards the middle so that it wasn't touching the heater wall. They replied:
your OAB is completely fine. Heating ball gets indeed very hot and the heating coil is also normal to be off-center. It gets about 400° hot and nothing could hold it centered, function or airflow is not affected.
 

someTooL

Well-Known Member
Mine is currently at my liking resting at 11.3. I tried starting at 11 and then resting at 10.3. Tasty but nothing I’d want to try for long. This was soon resolved to my liking by upping the power.

I wouldn’t say this is an aggressive range but produces quality vapor. Lots and lots of quality vapor.

Has anyone found another power supply to use (like a quality piece)? Not that important now but the provided supply seems to be the weak point that may need future replacement.
 

NimChimpsky

Well-Known Member
Has anyone found another power supply to use (like a quality piece)? Not that important now but the provided supply seems to be the weak point that may need future replacement.
I've been using this one which is more robust than the stock one (which you can also buy on amazon). It goes to 24V though (way higher than one would ever need to go, of course) so make sure it's not in a position where the dial could get bumped. It's not a game changer or anything but it seems to be of marginally better quality and I anticipate it lasting longer than the stock. Since I ride the 11V range typically, I like the idea that I'm not running the VVPS on near max all the time (hense the 24V range).
 

Shit Snacks

Milaana. Lana. LANA. LANAAAA! (TM2/TP80/BAK/FW9)
So is the consensus not to worry about "crazing"?. When we were youngsters my friend had a clay or ceramic bong. It was in the shape of a wizard. I don't think he ever cleaned it back then. This was 30 years ago though.

It's totally your choice, nothing that can be done about it, if it bothers you then you don't buy one! Have you seen the custom art aromatizer in the shape of a wizard brewing something?? I bet your buddy would get a kick out of it lol I need to get a photo of my octopus bong attempts from college...
 

rowbam

Well-Known Member
Man, this thing kicks off extraction when the bud is medium fine. Had a sesh with the crumble method, upped the voltage to 10.4 from 10.2, and when I got to that level of fineness, the hit knocked me on my ass. Such dense vapor, and I don't normally come close to coughing while I vape.
 

someTooL

Well-Known Member
For those that actually turn off.. unplug or use dial switch?

I ask because I found my setting that I prefer (11.6 on mine resting) but when I plugged in today after just unplugging last night, it started at 12.7 then found its resting at 11.6 again. Any harm in shutting down/starting up this way?
 

BrianTL

Westchester, NY
oh shit for a first time buyer which one should I go for??!

I only have the bandit but I believe the general consensus is you cant go wrong with either. I thought I would prefer the mouthpiece of the bandit so I went with that

For those that actually turn off.. unplug or use dial switch?

I ask because I found my setting that I prefer (11.6 on mine resting) but when I plugged in today after just unplugging last night, it started at 12.7 then found its resting at 11.6 again. Any harm in shutting down/starting up this way?

I strictly unplug. One of these days when I quit being lazy I'll hook it up to a smart outlet and be able to cut power to it that way.

Not a major inconvenience to re-set the dial, but its nice to just plug it in and not have to mess with it.
 

NimChimpsky

Well-Known Member
"Beserk" just landed, with the elusive wooden box no less as well as a thank you note from Felix which also recommends not to exceed 9V with this model as it could burn the herb. The glaze is incredible with hints of purple and the 'puck's bowl is super deep. Firing her up now, will def post some more pics and a usage report later!

Edit: more pics + God damn this thing rocks. Too high to post a usage report yet lol but it's great. I think 8.4V seems to be good for me, which is 3V lower than my other 2 Aromatizers.

Edit2: @Shit Snacks yea I was very pleasantly surprised with the quick turnaround. For anyone interested, here's some first thoughts on the differences noticed so far vs the standard & OAB.
- airflow is about the same as my OAB
- already mentioned runs ~3V lower
- heater head is slightly smaller
- more care needed when putting in water but not difficult
- seemed to reach a stable voltage quicker, didn't time it but will next time
- we will see how future cleaning goes, seems like its gonna be a little more difficult as the vapor path under the puck is hard to see/reach
- oven 'puck' rather than the ball/nut (~1" deep, 0.75" wide - you could fit an assload of ground weed in there and it would all be directly in the heat/air path) I think this will be a great design for putting a fat whole nug in, looking forward to trying that later.
- the puck has a certain orientation needed to insert but you don't have that 'nut alignment' thing to worry about (not that I ever even notice that with my others)
- top down heater with everything inside the puck directly in the air path. Seems to roast slightly more evenly than my others but I still have plenty of experimentation left.

Other than that, pretty much the same experience we all know and love! I fucking love the puck/top down design. Idk logistically how difficult it is to construct this model vs the standards, but I hope they offer more of them in the future. I will always love my originals and the feeling of that hot oven nut in my hand, of course, but this is a very clever and effective variation.
 
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passenger

is this thing on?
I had some thoughts about the crazed glaze / bacteria discussion a few days back here and came up with an idea of cleaning the device that I would like to discuss a bit. I don't like the idea of regularly ISO washing the ceramics as it seems a bit aggressive on the material?
Why not cleaning it with warm water with a squirt of dish soap and a fitting bottle brush.
Then I like what @Philabrookla wrote a while back. He fills the device with boiled water for cleaning.
That should do well against bacteria, right?
@Philabrookla: How long are you cleaning the Vapbong with boiling water now and how good is it taking it?
@AoV Daniel Can the ceramic withstand boiling water on a regular basis? It should be fine, but I'm just guessing.
 

cptofnthng

Well-Known Member
Ya' dudes should take a look at brewing equipment washes. Some of those are made for ceramic and they have to kill everything! I would be interested to see what someone more knowledgeable about this stuff would find as a good option. :shrug:
AoV recommended warm water with some apple cider vinegar to me. that sounded appropriat to the ceramics.
 

Shit Snacks

Milaana. Lana. LANA. LANAAAA! (TM2/TP80/BAK/FW9)
For those that actually turn off.. unplug or use dial switch?

I ask because I found my setting that I prefer (11.6 on mine resting) but when I plugged in today after just unplugging last night, it started at 12.7 then found its resting at 11.6 again. Any harm in shutting down/starting up this way?

Oh yeah no point in using the dial, just leave the dial where it is especially if you are not temp stepping at all, that's the best when it remembers where you were and you can just plug it back in and after 30 minutes or so it is at your ideal voltage! I actually have my own plugged into a smart strip now, as the only item, so I just turn the strip switch on or off, instead of plugging or unplugging...

@NimChimpsky love it! Very quick arrival, and yeah that is a very nice looking cappuccino mint glaze! So interesting about the low voltage needed, not so surprising with that beefy heater right on top like that, and the chamber bowl directly straight shot down too! Love how deep that bowl is, no wonder you are so high off the testing!!
 

Cheebsy

Microbe minion
Ya' dudes should take a look at brewing equipment washes. Some of those are made for ceramic and they have to kill everything! I would be interested to see what someone more knowledgeable about this stuff would find as a good option. :shrug:
I have some experience with brewery cleaners, but not specifically with this kind of ceramic. I've not heard of ceramics in a brewery at all fwiw. In a home brewing situation you generally use something like PBW and elbow grease to remove beer stone, this is the stubborn remnants of foam and wort caused by boiling. PBW has been recommended on FC a few times, it's basically the same as oxi type cleaners for your stained laundry. It's very gentle and I use it for any hard to clean surface that's soiled with anything organic. I've not had it ruin anything so far.

For sanitation though you can look up a product called starsan. It's a non rinse sanitiser originally designed for the dairy industry I believe. When brewing it's used to swill around the inside of a container, dumped out, and immediately filled with beer. It's completely tasteless and I've had it on my skin frequently without issues but again, I have no idea if it would have a problem with this kind of ceramic.

Sorry for the lengthy post but I hope it helps some.
 

invertedisdead

PHASE3
Manufacturer
I've not heard of ceramics in a brewery at all fwiw.

This might come as a surprise, but Coors (yes that guy) was a pioneer in the ceramics industry. The company still exists today as CoorsTek.


And if you want to talk lucrative business ventures - imagine inventing the aluminum can! 🤑🤑🤑🤑
 

doctapeppa

Well-Known Member
Been refreshing Vgoodies and Collyland all day. Anyone got some insider information to secure a scoop?
 
doctapeppa,
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