NimChimpsky
Well-Known Member
Vapbong can't melt steel beams.
Collyland Aromatizer (formerly Vapbong by Art of Vapor)
- Thread starter Used2use
- Start date
coolbreeze
Well-Known Member
Can we see? I'd love to see what the heck this looks like. Do you have your own theory about what happened?
coolbreeze
Well-Known Member
Thebeansquad
New Member
Anyone ever try running a coil and balls through a vapbong instead of the standard heater repair? Is there anything preventing you from doing so that I’m unaware of? Would there be any benefit to doing so over the stock heater or recommended diy cartridge repair? Better temp control through a pid perhaps? Sorry if it’s been asked before, 184 pages is alot to look through
letter never sent
reckoner
Do we really need to add balls to this vape too? It already has them, no? 
Thebeansquad
New Member
All vapes are better with balls
coolbreeze
Well-Known Member
Oh, it's got balls.
Edit: seriously, it probably wouldn't add anything, Vapbongs are so incredibly powerful already I don't know what you'd do with any additional power except combust.
Last edited:
Shit Snacks
Milaana. Lana. LANA. LANAAAA! (TM2/TP80/BAK/FW9)
No, you do not need the extra mass here, because what makes these rip so well hit so hard, is that the large ceramics sphere or whatever shape it happens to be, reaches equilibrium to become your entire heater with very large mass of ceramic already and wide open air flow... balls typically limit the air flow, and it would be a whole ordeal getting them in place in this case... They are not a magic ingredient for every vape, no secret hack to make just anything better per se, and regarding these ceramic beasts it is just not necessary at all as they are already more than capable for extraction regardless of the exact heater core heating element...
Ramahs
Fucking Combustion (mostly) Since February 2017
Wait...someone said that they melted a screen a few posts back.
I don't understand why we are not talking about this.
I mean...it would seem that either the claim is bullshit, which for some reason has been left quietly un-called-out, or something insanely fascinating just happened that we should all be talking about.
I don't understand why we are not talking about this.
I mean...it would seem that either the claim is bullshit, which for some reason has been left quietly un-called-out, or something insanely fascinating just happened that we should all be talking about.
AssistedLiving
Well-Known Member
Stainless steel comes in five families and more than 150 grades. Only 15 of these grades are commonly used, however.
The two most popular grades of stainless steel are 304 and 316. Both grades are part of the austenitic stainless steel family, which includes about two-thirds of the stainless steel produced. Austenitic stainless steel features a face-centered cubic crystal structure, which remains constant across all temperatures from cryogenic to the melting point.
Stainless steel’s melting points can vary from a low of 1375°C for grade 316 steel to a high of 1510°C for grade 430. The most common grade, 304, has a melting point of 1400-1450°C.
The two most popular grades of stainless steel are 304 and 316. Both grades are part of the austenitic stainless steel family, which includes about two-thirds of the stainless steel produced. Austenitic stainless steel features a face-centered cubic crystal structure, which remains constant across all temperatures from cryogenic to the melting point.
Stainless steel’s melting points can vary from a low of 1375°C for grade 316 steel to a high of 1510°C for grade 430. The most common grade, 304, has a melting point of 1400-1450°C.
Yeah, that was me. When I can be arsed, I'll dig out the box it's in and take a photo of the screen.
PlanetHulk
Member
I sold one of my Vapbongs and they too melted one of the screens when they used it too hot.
I didn't believe it either until I saw it. But it was most definitely melted. Looked like it was made of plastic it melted so bad.
SquirrelMaster
Well-Known Member
I think it's safe to assume there's not Vapbongs hitting over 1300°C right? That begs the question of what were the melted screens made out of?
PlanetHulk
Member
I should say, the screen wasn't actually plastic. I checked my other vapbongs and they are most definitely a metal of some kind.
I also have spare screens they sent me and they are exactly the same as the ones i got from AE. I just held my jetty to one of them for about 30 seconds and it didn't melt.
I also have spare screens they sent me and they are exactly the same as the ones i got from AE. I just held my jetty to one of them for about 30 seconds and it didn't melt.
Shit Snacks
Milaana. Lana. LANA. LANAAAA! (TM2/TP80/BAK/FW9)
You never know exactly with metal alloys I wouldn't want to buy them from ali express personally... I only used the screens that came with mine a bit, different ones at different times, I bought my replacement screens from eBay Amazon sellers & Delta 3D Studios that are extremely high quality robust stainless steel 3/4 inch screens
Yes.
Ramahs
Fucking Combustion (mostly) Since February 2017
Also, how hot can the heater coil itself get before it would start to melt? Combine that with how hot the coil would have to be in order to sent heated air that cools to a level still able to melt the screen after traveling from the heater coil.
All I can say is that there must be another piece of data contributing to these melted screens that has yet to be accounted for.
All I can say is that there must be another piece of data contributing to these melted screens that has yet to be accounted for.
SquirrelMaster
Well-Known Member
I was going to say kanthal as well. There was a heater change semi-recently but I can't remember what actually changed. The change was made to keep the heating element centered in the ball iirc.
letter never sent
reckoner
Yeah it’s definitely kanthal wire on the old style heater. The new ones are using a SS cartridge heater IIRC.
coolbreeze
Well-Known Member
Wonder if anyone's converted yet. Be interested to hear if it's any different in use.