CCA710 LIGER - AIR

alittledabwilldoya'

alittledabwilldoya'

Sapphire Powered Dabstronaut.
Shooby said:
A twist and turn to get it on and off. Its just a dimple on opposite sides in the ring that holds it in. The 14mm adapter works great on all my 14mm females as well.

FYI, the 10mm joint does not come off and cannot be removed. Which is why i rather use a glass reducer than their ti joint adapter. So if your just using the 10mm male, you do nothing at all to the air. If you need it to be 14mm, then grab the smaller donut and depending on if you want male or female is how you know which side you want up or down.

As for the joint being hot or not, i dont touch the joint to see if its hot, i know its hot, i touch the joint that it was just in. If i cant leave my finger in the joint. its fucking hot. But this has only happened on the 30mm liger and not the 20mm Liger even though they weigh roughly the same.
Click to expand...

Sweet!
Thank you for the response.
I never touched the actual joint of the Liger, just the glass joint when the Liger was in it and @ dabbing temp.

Can't leave your finger on the joint?
That does sound hot.

It looks like they included the 18mm joint, I will try that in my 14mm -> 18mm dropdown as a joint temp test.

edit: Hmm, removing the 14mm male to expose the built in 10mm male was easy (after your tip @Shooby TY).
But what I thought/think is the 18mm male adaptor doesn't have the same inner cylinder that 14mm male adaptor(the 10mm fits in this cylinder and sits tight).
The 18mm adaptor, having no inner cylinder doesn't fasten to the 10mm portion of the airpath.

edit2: 10mm male joint fits my 10mm rig and 10mm dropdown nicely.
 
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alittledabwilldoya',
Shooby

Shooby

4ShOObY3 - IG
alittledabwilldoya' said:
Sweet!
Thank you for the response.
I never touched the actual joint of the Liger, just the glass joint when the Liger was in it and @ dabbing temp.

Can't leave your finger on the joint?
That does sound hot.

It looks like they included the 18mm joint, I will try that in my 14mm -> 18mm dropdown as a joint temp test.

edit: Hmm, removing the 14mm male to expose the built in 10mm male was easy (after your tip @Shooby TY).
But what I thought/think is the 18mm male adaptor doesn't have the same inner cylinder that 14mm male adaptor(the 10mm fits in this cylinder and sits tight).
The 18mm adaptor, having no inner cylinder doesn't fasten to the 10mm portion of the airpath.

edit2: 10mm male joint fits my 10mm rig and 10mm dropdown nicely.
Click to expand...

TBH, i didnt even open the 18mm joint adapter as i dont plan on using that one.

I havent used the Air enough to know how hot it gets. I know the joint was hot when i first used it but wasnt all that hot but still didnt want to stress the joint.

I kinda wish they made a 20mm Liger Air.
 
T

TrashStashNash

New Member
Im still waiting on my Liger and am switching from my old barrel coil/universal set up. Im trying to decide on whether to upgrade to a 710coils flat coil, or wait for 710coils to stock the Axail coil (which wont be stocked for another month or so). I have already talked to CCA and have a shroud on my order but I noticed that some of you have complained about a less than ideal fit with the AH coil and shroud, and wondered if id just be happier with a flat coil. What have you guys gone with? Are the temps that much better with the Axail?
 
TrashStashNash,
Shooby

Shooby

4ShOObY3 - IG
The ones that mentioned the rattle or loose ring lid i bet are all still using the AH liger coil.

Using a flat coil will solve the issue of the shield lid rattling but who is gonna use a flat coil after spending money on a AH liger coil?

For me, i was at 455F-485F using my flat coil on the 3.0 Liger with a MiniNail PID. Using the Liger Air with AH coil and shield on my AH kubeone, im at 485F to 500F. I dont have a flat coil to use on the kubeone.

****Edit****
This i can tell you. after having the AH liger coil and the flat coil. It really doesnt matter which one. If i already owned a flat coil, i now wouldnt buy the AH liger coil.

But if i was to buy my first coil for my liger, why not go for the the his Axial coil over the flat coil.
 
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A

Anon3200

Well-Known Member
Go with the ah coil. The Ah shroud is designed to be tightest on the button where you want the closest contact. It can't be super tight on the top as well as the bottom due to the manufacturing variances in the exact coil demensions at AH.

Becareful if twisting the coil tighter. Do not use the air tube as a handle or you might break it off.
 
scalescliffs

scalescliffs

cashed
Who cares if the ring rattles? I don’t move my rig that much. I never notice the rattle even when I move the rig up to my lips when I’m too lazy to bend over.

Don’t let that trip you up. I think they could have designed a slightly different part and made it solid like the 3.0, but this is backwards compatible like the inserts are. Lets people upgrade more affordable etc.

I’m still really happy with the Air. It heats up faster and seems to stay at temperature better. I also dropped the temps about 20* with equal vapor production (unscientific).
 
scalescliffs,
gunmetalshark

gunmetalshark

Glass Addict
Just got my Liger Air in the Mail, #39 in silver....looking great :) but i just had like 15 mins.
with it..what i can say is that it took me like 10 mins of that 15 to figure out how the f*** to assemble the different joint variations (14/18mm M/F)

I can clearly understand now why @Shooby suggested to get a glass adapter for the 10mm...those are the only ones that are pretty similar to v3.0....i also dislike the new style 14/18mm F/M joints ...it does sit tight..no wobble whatsoever but i dunno...if ur cap gets stuck u could lift the whole Liger from the joint..time will tell but i guess i will also get glass joint adapters ^^

I ordered the Air with all joints and sapphire insert and this is what i got...sapphire came in months ago so not on picture :)

IMG_7049.jpg



Can anyone tell me what the small set screw is for...couldnt figure out yet o.O

And can anyone tell me where the 10mm female joint is...?
The 10mm ones i got wont fit the Air the way i see it and are V3.0 or am i totally wrong O.o ??

edit.

Oh boy, talk about bad luck...my coil is pretty a Dead on Arrival and just goes up to like 320F and then turns EEEE on my PID...guess the temp probe is somehow bad...was a cheapo one from DHGate...u get what u pay for :p DAMN
Oh and Galaxy 35mm Enail Coil is waaaaay to big...not even nearly fitting...hope @710Coils comes up with AH 240V Coils soon ^^

Here´s a short melt shot...couldnt do more since no higher temp possible loooool...very tasty but toooo low for my liking lol

 
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Puddy

Puddy

Well-Known Member
i've had the v3 30mm for a little over a year now. Everything works fine/no issues

Worth it to upgrade to the AIR? or should I just hold off for now?
 
Puddy,
Shooby

Shooby

4ShOObY3 - IG
depends on if you have the disposable income. I think its nicer in terms of function and aesthetics. But both gets the job done. If the weight or size is an issue for you now, get the air. If the you want to support Josh and CCA, get the air.

Its not gonna get you more medicated than your 3.0 but it is nice to have. I wouldnt use my 3.0 over the Air. Its definitely better in every way but how much better can it really be? in terms of percentage, maybe a 10% upgrade in performance. Less restrictive but at most 10% less restrictive. Its really up to you.
 
Puddy

Puddy

Well-Known Member
ha thanks Shooby, that is pretty much where my mind was at too, but wanted to get some feedback!
 
Puddy,
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Dubmonkey

Dubmonkey

Well-Known Member
Eyeing a liger air now that I can get concentrates for the most part. Can someone tell me if the sapphire insert is worth it over the obisan(sp)? If you had to choose one insert of the two which one?
 
Dubmonkey,
Shooby

Shooby

4ShOObY3 - IG
If budget doesnt matter for your decision, sapphire as its smoother/softer vape over SiC/Obsidian.

SiC/Obsidian will let you go lower in temps than sapphire.

Both are extremely strong materials but sapphire is prone to thermal shock when heated at high temps.
 
Shooby

Shooby

4ShOObY3 - IG
OC513 said:
I wish he would do the Air in a 20mm. Crazy to me that he dropped that size completely. Why, Josh, why?
Click to expand...
He said on the live stream that to bring back the 20mm, he would need to spend about $200K on inserts for it. I guess the demand was there compared to the 30mm in terms of sales for the 3.0 Liger.
 
Shooby,
OC513

OC513

Dabaholic
Shooby said:
He said on the live stream that to bring back the 20mm, he would need to spend about $200K on inserts for it. I guess the demand was there compared to the 30mm in terms of sales for the 3.0 Liger.
Click to expand...
I didnt know that, thanks. That number seems exorbitantly high to me, but what do I know. My guess is the demand would still be there, all my friends prefer the 20, one bought the 30 and sold it and bought the 20. haha.
 
OC513,
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Shooby

Shooby

4ShOObY3 - IG
OC513 said:
I didnt know that, thanks. That number seems exorbitantly high to me, but what do I know. My guess is the demand would still be there, all my friends prefer the 20, one bought the 30 and sold it and bought the 20. haha.
Click to expand...

Im with you & your friends, I prefer the smaller inserts myself more. Preferably with high walls.
 
Shooby,
A

Anon3200

Well-Known Member
I like the 30 more but it would be cool if he I couldn't make the next version with a more narrow top so that you don't need to draw so hard to maintain pressure before carb capping. Carb capping is a must for the 30. The quicker you can get the cap on the better. That's why I like the hurricane cap over a separate glass cap.

The 20 mm limits you too tiny "dablets" or higher temps.




Make sure that you always stop sucking before you remove the carb cap. The Liger air is so light that the vacuum can pull that pull that sucker off your rig and burn the s*** out of your hand.
 
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Anon3200,
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