Cannabis Hardware (formerly NewVape) FlowerPot Twax Vaporizer

ParanoidAndroid998

Well-Known Member
Still wish there was a flat coil version. With most flat coils having a 10mm hole in the middle, getting air through shouldnt be a big deal.

A flat coil version would solve some of the issues of the outer edges getting too hot. I notice this on my Dnail wraparound. The carb cap gets blazing hot in seconds when using it.

I did all this with the Happy Daddy Genesis nail several years ago. I even asked Ken at HDP to expand on the idea and got no traction. If I didnt know for sure it would work, I wouldnt keep bringing it up. Pretty sure NewVape has me on ignore as he never even responded to any of my suggestions. Guess since I was the early trouble maker, thats what I get.
Does the Showercap get that hot when using the SH too?
 

EmDeemo

ACCOUNT INACTIVE
my guess is between 680f and 715f

No soup for you!

733 on the PID. I've gone as high as 777F (with a smaller load) and an even faster draw but this is literally plenty for me.

Thanks!

So damn happy with the latest adjustabowl update. This is what the adjustabow was meant to be and just like that the adjustabowl races to first place!

I am putting my OG bowl in the bag. :nod:

I dont have the latest revision yet, but am still loving the adjustabowls HEFT. Likewise, the other bowls are lesser to me now :)

EDIT: Adjustabowl is approx 10 grams heavier. The original bowl just looks a bit dainty in my drop down now. The way the adjustabowl doesnt thin out at the bottom like the OG looks better to me, but also the Adjustabowl has a slight wider diameter channel/air path. I'm at the same temp pretty much the whole time atm, 605f. Its definitely not sticking as much as it did, which is great.
 
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Justpassedu

Well-Known Member
Still wish there was a flat coil version. With most flat coils having a 10mm hole in the middle, getting air through shouldnt be a big deal.

A flat coil version would solve some of the issues of the outer edges getting too hot. I notice this on my Dnail wraparound. The carb cap gets blazing hot in seconds when using it.

I did all this with the Happy Daddy Genesis nail several years ago. I even asked Ken at HDP to expand on the idea and got no traction. If I didnt know for sure it would work, I wouldnt keep bringing it up. Pretty sure NewVape has me on ignore as he never even responded to any of my suggestions. Guess since I was the early trouble maker, thats what I get.
Problem with a flat coil is it would only be good for dabbing , you need the coils to wrap around the body for the heat distribution for being able to do flowers , it most likely would not generate the heat needed in certain places to make this a dual use vape like the name implies “Twax” .
 

biohacker

H.R.E.A.M
It is hard for me to understand that everyone is not getting these spectacular results. :nod:

Bro, just still dialin'er in.... the FP isn't like the sv3, where you can just throw it on any water tool, and hit it as slow or hard as you want once that digital readout is at your temp. Remember all of those posts a little while back about how different water tools affect its function? Yep, i'm still learning about water tools and perks, and have realized that using more water isn't necessarily always a bad thing, from a vacuum/suction perspective. It's amazing what a difference just the water level can make in your draw.

Moreover, i've been using the SH at way too low of a temp for my preferences, and realizing this just now, after watching @invertedisdead cloud monster video. 640-680 has just been too low for me, so upping to 730-735 has made a huge difference. I'm still sticking with a coarser grind, which I know plays a big role.


Still don't understand the meaning of this word. Well I do, but what's the T about?
 

psychonaut

Company Rep
Company Rep
I am thinking about this one, I like the little mobius but it takes some rips to clear a bowl.

toro-heady-glass-bong-birdcage-tire-honeycomb-perc-with-adapter-bowl-bubber-water-pipe-concentrate-oil-rigs.jpg
 

Chicken #420

I and I be Irie Vaping with U and U in Zion, mon!
So damn happy with the latest adjustabowl update. This is what the adjustabow was meant to be and just like that the adjustabowl races to first place!

I am putting my OG bowl in the bag. :nod:

Don't bag that bowl just yet...
The OG bowls work with Keck clips. Adjusta-Bowls? Not so much.
I find that occasionally Keck clips save the day, particularly when someone new and unfamiliar to it is using my setup. ;)
 

lazylathe

Almost there...
@biohacker

You can always test my OG if you want!
The SH was too airy for me as well...

I am finding that i like a steady draw that works with most of my vapes.
The Sh was too tricky due to my herb being all different kinds of moisture content.
Regular draw and the herb was green and clouds light, slower draw and toasted herb all at the same temp.

With my OGFP i use my regular draw and the ABV is always a perfect dark tan color.
My controller is set at 655F and it never changes.
I carb from start to finish!

I am thinking that the 5 holes in the OG are slightly too few as there is a bit of restriction without and more with the carb. Maybe a 20mm coil post with 8 holes would be perfect! All holes should be centered so that the heated column of air is directed straight down the bowls center.

If you have a Stainless Steel washer handy try using it to block the outer layer of holes and see what a difference that makes! For me it was night and day but a hassle to set up... Worth a test though!
Maybe @NewVape420 could look into this design?
 

btka

Well-Known Member
Bro, just still dialin'er in.... the FP isn't like the sv3, where you can just throw it on any water tool, and hit it as slow or hard as you want once that digital readout is at your temp. Remember all of those posts a little while back about how different water tools affect its function? Yep, i'm still learning about water tools and perks, and have realized that using more water isn't necessarily always a bad thing, from a vacuum/suction perspective. It's amazing what a difference just the water level can make in your draw.

Moreover, i've been using the SH at way too low of a temp for my preferences, and realizing this just now, after watching @invertedisdead cloud monster video. 640-680 has just been too low for me, so upping to 730-735 has made a huge difference. I'm still sticking with a coarser grind, which I know plays a big role.



Still don't understand the meaning of this word. Well I do, but what's the T about?

do not take the temp. setting from yor controller to serious and do not compare it with the temps of other members... it is not accurate in my opinion, it also have to do a lot with ambient temp, calibrating and so on... it is not like other vapes... and the temp on your controller is as far as Inunderstand the temp of your coil... lets say your coil is at 700 the hot air which hits your herb for exampme is 500... the temp on your controller does not meassure the temp of the hot air...
 

EmDeemo

ACCOUNT INACTIVE
It's amazing what a difference just the water level can make in your draw.

Yeah, since I've been watching more and more glass videos lately, I'm realising just now little water there is in this D020, making it a bit tough to beat for other glass for me. I used to have a recycler that took a lot of water, and another smaller piece that I cant actually remember what the hell it was now. Both took way more water than the D020 and neither provided the hits the D020 does (this was way before I owned the OGFP or SH tho, so not tried anything other than the D020 with the SH so far).

do not take the temp. setting from yor controller to serious and do not compare it with the temps of other members... it is not accurate in my opinion, it also have to do a lot with ambient temp, calibrating and so on... it is not like other vapes... and the temp on your controller is as far as Inunderstand the temp of your coil... lets say your coil is at 700 the hot air which hits your herb for exampme is 500... the temp on your controller does not meassure the temp of the hot air...

You have a point, tho ruling out the temp on the controller completely is obviously not really what you mean. However, yeah, temps of other members arent hugely the thing to focus on, its the whole set of parameters, draw speed, controller temp, capped/uncapped, pre-heat, water level, load size, load type.

I now got 6 holes in my ShowerCap. The draw is really unrestricted, but its still giving the extra benefits I was getting from being completely capped with a one hole SC. I think I've slightly over done it and four holes would maybe be the sweet spot, but for now, I'm back to being permacapped but with no draw restriction. This means that at 680 for instance, Im going to combust if I try finishing a whole bowl at that temp and the taste def suffers.

Still have a load of readings from when I was capped and uncapped previously. I will take some more readings soon to compare this 6 hole carbcap against the 1 hole version, see if its just placebo and I'm making this all up :D
 
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EmDeemo

ACCOUNT INACTIVE
Coming from the silver surfer community I never used temperature readings because the silver surfer device does not have a thermometer. For the SSV we used 'dial position' as a place for your preferred temperature. I am very happy I have temperatures with the Flower Pot because they are more accurate and reliable than a dial position. Basically, I still dial in my vapes my old reliable SSV way.

When I dial in temp for my FP I pick a temp which I think will be close to where I end up. Then I load and vape a 'one hit' load and dump the ABV in a small pile on a white sheet of paper. Depending on ABV color I will adjust my temps up or down. Repeat this process until you are getting the ABV color for your perfect hit. The temp you end up on is your setting based on your draw, temperature, and ABV color, so it is bound to be just right to paraphrase a line from Goldilocks and the Three Bears.

:myday:

Yep, its this same approach but choosing a different parameter or two to focus on changing that means I can stay at the same temp on the controller and still achieve multiple results (one hit and done, full loads, small loads, or multiple hits instead).

The simplicity of design (and the size) is one thing I love about the FP, that the simplicity leads to having ultimate control over all parameters is what makes it a fucking work of genius in my eyes.

Yep, month 5 of the honeymoon period still on going :)

EDIT: I think this is going to be my next glass/FP pairing. Possibly the closest I've found so far to what I'm looking for...

F18y-WP-174T-7670SAND--0_1024x1024.jpg
 
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Baron23

Well-Known Member
I received my Pan Head replacement stems today (well, came in the mail yesterday). As I said, I have never demanded to return nor exchange any NV part at any time, but they were kind enough to send me replacements for both my 18 and 14 mm stems. Very nice and it would seem NV has regained its customer friendly focus. NV did not ask for the old stems back though I would have gladly cleaned them up (to pristine which would be easy as they were only used very lightly) and returned them.

I have not used them yet but I did fit the stems into my PH bowl, cover the bottom hole, and tried to suck air through the combo and could not with either the 14 nor the 18 mm stems so this looks like a win to me.

The tolerances are indeed very tight. My 14 mm stem fits in pretty easily. The 18 mm stem stuck a bit in the bowl and I can see minute scratches in the stem. This is probably from a burr on my pre-revised stem bowl and the reason that NV put a little piece of emery cloth in there. I'm almost positive its just a little burr where the hole for the handles was drilled and I will resolve this easily.

The subject of controller temp came up again, I see. I rather agree that a digital readout makes it easy to reproduce a temp but also agree that these temps should be taken as relative and not absolute temps and yes, 640 F on mine may result in different temp than 640 set point on yours. I found with enails that the most sensitive parameter for temp deltas (set point vs dab surface or in the case of the SH PH, the heater head) is coil tightness. The shroud should negate this factor some, but I still find a tight coil really reduces the delta and we all have different coils with differing degrees of tightness.

Cheers
 
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