I spread my coils apart so they filled the space more.
That seems a bit high for room temp.
I think my Auber starts off way below 100f
Cannabis Hardware (formerly NewVape) FlowerPot Twax Vaporizer
- Thread starter natural farmer
- Start date
I think my Auber starts off way below 100f
David Root
Well-Known Member
Mine reads room temp. Yours is way offso you would need to set to 750 to = 600.
Or check settings and autotune.
Or check settings and autotune.
I have autotuned a few times, its excellent then after a bit not working the same. besides auto tune what settings can I check or change?
actually 74 is my start temp.
madhockeydad
Art is beauty
I love the new injector with the B1 head.
BTW: I once had an Auber PID issue that was a fault in the plug in the power adapter into the Auber. I had to send the unit back to figure out and they sent a new power adapter. I had some weird flakey behavior before it finally cut out all together. Maybe it's similar?
BTW: I once had an Auber PID issue that was a fault in the plug in the power adapter into the Auber. I had to send the unit back to figure out and they sent a new power adapter. I had some weird flakey behavior before it finally cut out all together. Maybe it's similar?
thats one thing I did not mention. my original ac power plug lost the third prong so I am using another random one, could this be the issue?
David Root
Well-Known Member
Worth trying
The sensor wires are a twisted pair, so a ground would be a good thing.
The sensor wires are a twisted pair, so a ground would be a good thing.
Last edited:
Cool, I'm not using the original one (that the ground fell out of) I'm using a different brand new one that came from something else. Trying a third new cable and I spread the coil wraps a bit.
Tuck
Well-Known Member
I have a B2. For concentrates, I run about 650F with my SIC dish and NewVape controller. I like to do double deckers. If I go too much higher, my herb gets really black. I use a dry detailing qtip after every dab. I started doing that with my Peak Pro last summer and kept the habit when I got the B2.
@David Root This is my backup power cable I have on hand, it should be good for the legacy NV PID I am thinking.
One I have
I Sheng E88265 "Power Cable" SVT 75 Degree C 18AWGX3C Vw-1 | eBay
I Sheng E88265 "Power Cable" SVT 75 Degree C 18AWGX3C Vw-1. Condition is "Used".
www.ebay.com
The one that came with my NV PID http://www.powercordcn.com/H03VV-F-Power-Cords.html
Last edited:
David Root
Well-Known Member
From what I see, any computer cord would work. Can you try one before buying? Rob one from a computer?
Thanks for the help David, that's what I thought. I am looking at every angle. It does power the PID without issue (I have that I-sheng I posted above). I spread my coil wraps a bit and will test this week.
madhockeydad
Art is beauty
The B1 with the injector bottom is incredible. Honestly, it's the most amazing vape I've tried. I can't wait to try other injector ball vapes. I have the PID set at 520 (I very from 496 to 520).
Using a 1/8th teaspoon for loading the Elev8r bowl. Haven't weighed it so I'm not sure but a pretty small load.
First hit - two seconds and the whole glass piece is thick milk. Almost instantaneous. Crazy. I pull the injector out after 4 or 5 seconds and draw out all the vapor. That's just about all my lungs can handle with out coughing. WOw. The second hit is almost the same.
The cool thing about 3rd or 4th hits is the vapor production really falls off but the material doesn't keep getting more roasted. It's like it reaches a max roasting temp and there is simply nothing left. Every other vape I've tried continues to roast the material darker and darker even if it's regulated to a specific temp. I love how this vape functions. I assume the max vaping temp is a function of PID temp, draw speed, and a few other variables. Means I should be able to easily adjust the roasting by adjusting the temp. I've done this and it works perfectly.
If you haven't tried this setup or haven't tried a ball vape, I can only say from my experience it's amazing. I'm excited to try a whole bunch more.
Using a 1/8th teaspoon for loading the Elev8r bowl. Haven't weighed it so I'm not sure but a pretty small load.
First hit - two seconds and the whole glass piece is thick milk. Almost instantaneous. Crazy. I pull the injector out after 4 or 5 seconds and draw out all the vapor. That's just about all my lungs can handle with out coughing. WOw. The second hit is almost the same.
The cool thing about 3rd or 4th hits is the vapor production really falls off but the material doesn't keep getting more roasted. It's like it reaches a max roasting temp and there is simply nothing left. Every other vape I've tried continues to roast the material darker and darker even if it's regulated to a specific temp. I love how this vape functions. I assume the max vaping temp is a function of PID temp, draw speed, and a few other variables. Means I should be able to easily adjust the roasting by adjusting the temp. I've done this and it works perfectly.
If you haven't tried this setup or haven't tried a ball vape, I can only say from my experience it's amazing. I'm excited to try a whole bunch more.
Same. The temp should reflect the reading of the PID of the Ti coil when the electricity starts flowing. I leave mine on all day except for long periods I'm out of the house and like others - mine reads in the 60's or 70's based on ambient air temp. If it's reading that hot - could that be a PID issue?
Longtimedabber
New Member
I 2nd all of this, as I've yet to combust with mine. The other differing variable is temp...I don't know how you guys are getting milky hits in the 500s as I have to run like 670 with my B1 ID for instant vapor with little effort. I'm running an auber and my glass has a smaller mouthpiece diameter, might have to try a new rig
madhockeydad
Art is beauty
I’m using a Sherlock style bubbler mid-size. DC PID. 3mm ruby. Temp at 510 and two seconds of drag the whole bubbler is milky. Maybe the PIDs are calibrated differently?
My situation is figured out, some people in the community here were helpful and that's much appreciated @David Root . I'm down to like 530 Fahrenheit and getting excellent results, for me as a few others have noted it was a matter of spreading out my coil a bit, I actually spread it a little too much possibly as it was a bit hard to get the B1 head on, but it did screw in fully with no gaps and I am able to get it off.
Excellent function now all day long.
@Chris_CH it took me a bunch of trial and error to figure this situation out and it looks like it may have been the same for others, you may want to add this to your tech support to help people in future as at first I was really curious as to why it was not working properly and about to buy a new controller and coil (which I don't really need). I was starting to get frustrated for sure. But as always a great piece of gear and you did respond to my support emails to try and help but spreading the coil never came up. I know you have a YouTube video about spreading the coil for the V-Rod but this may be very helpful for people to be included in your tech support. Next I'll probably grab an injector for my B1 with some glass bowls instead of buying a new controller, so in the end I'm very happy. Peace love and cannabis
Thanks for posting this. While I have been aware of the spreading the coil situation, It has never been an issue with performance, but rather some folks get annoyed with how sometimes the piece is a little loose on the coil. But if it is more related to performance, I will include in tech. For sure. Thank you
Thank you Chris, that's why I wanted to post to be helpful , with new tech it's hard to know everything that's going on for sure. But if my little story can help one person it makes me happy, you did offer great support and tried helping in any way you could with quick responses to emails, much appreciated. I'm about to buy the injector infuser (3417) and an elv8 bowl on your site, I just bought the B1 a few weeks ago, so this can replace my bottom part so I can do injection style correct? Thanks again man.
Yup! thats right!
What I may do @Chris_CH is buy a full b1 diffuser injector head and a legacy newvape coil because I'm thinking two heads may be better than one, hehe. When I make the purchase I'll send you a quick email maybe you can check or have somebody check if possible that this Legacy coil fits in the B1 diffuser head nicely. If not I don't mind spreading the coil a bit again, just wondering if you might want to have a quick look see.
Edit: just noticed you're sold out of the 20 mm Legacy coils , I would assume those will never come back again? But my first option still looks fine I'll just buy the bottom injection piece for my current B1 head, no problem.
Edit: just noticed you're sold out of the 20 mm Legacy coils , I would assume those will never come back again? But my first option still looks fine I'll just buy the bottom injection piece for my current B1 head, no problem.
noobvaperct
Well-Known Member
Need help deciding on the injector or regular B1 friends...pros and cons?
checkyourlibido
Well-Known Member
Injector seems to be on the uptick. It will be convection only. If you go shovelhead, then you can also pull off conduction with the convection.
Chicken No Name
Dazed and confused
Probably depends on what glass bowls you can get.
I have 3 plusplus bowls so the b1 works like a champ.
But appears the injector is useable with more glass options.
Teedub
Well-Known Member
Wanted to share a couple of tweaks that have improved my B1, aim is dark roast thick milky one hitters. I found the airflow was too high for that sweet spot milk, but that suits me it's much easier to restrict airflow then improve it!
- 2 double weave screens in top of B1 ( Slight restriction with more heated mass/airflow contact area. I would try 2 in the bottom as well but I'm out of screens.)
- Bulging with 3mm rubies
- 2 screens with another solid holed screen sandwiched between them in shovelhead bowl (Added restriction and slightly raised height of material)
The screen grooves easily accommodate the 2 screens in both the SH and B1 which is great.
- High temp o-ring (from the old solo mod) around the 18mm post where it meets with top part of sh bowl (Better seal between the sh parts and also the glass joint. (Will obviously depend on design of your glass joint whether it works well or not.)
Shes a f*ckin rip monster now! Only day 2 of experimenting, I'm sure i'll tune it some more in time but these lil tweaks have made a vast improvement for me. Much love.
- 2 double weave screens in top of B1 ( Slight restriction with more heated mass/airflow contact area. I would try 2 in the bottom as well but I'm out of screens.)
- Bulging with 3mm rubies
- 2 screens with another solid holed screen sandwiched between them in shovelhead bowl (Added restriction and slightly raised height of material)
The screen grooves easily accommodate the 2 screens in both the SH and B1 which is great.
- High temp o-ring (from the old solo mod) around the 18mm post where it meets with top part of sh bowl (Better seal between the sh parts and also the glass joint. (Will obviously depend on design of your glass joint whether it works well or not.)
Shes a f*ckin rip monster now! Only day 2 of experimenting, I'm sure i'll tune it some more in time but these lil tweaks have made a vast improvement for me. Much love.