Cannabis Hardware (formerly NewVape) FlowerPot Twax Vaporizer

[xlr8shun]

i am happy to report that my new Ti heater coil post alleviates the sticking so much better than the SS one i have (Also rev 2). thanks all for your feedback when i was asking about it earlier in the thread!

i also ordered a couple SiC dishes and had newvape send me replacement head and carb cap for my v1 V-Rod. wow, i read the feedback stating that it was much easier to clean, but i just didnt realize exactly how much that would be.

granted i bet it would depend greatly on how clean your concentrates are, but after a dab i would q-tip and most of the time that required 2 q-tips, using both sides, thats 4 swabs (on quartz dish). now with the SiC dish, i find myself only having to use half of the q-tip. now just 1 swab with a bit of iso is enough to clean up after a dab

 

[TheFatBastard]

Hi guys!!!

Last weekend I noticed more draw resistance than usual in my FP SH, so I insoected closely and notices that the double weave ti screen was dirty, and that’s what’s adding resistance when I draw.

I tried cleaning with iso alcohol, but it hasn’t get any better, still opaque conoared to the brand new I boughy as backup.

How do you guys solve this issue? Do you clean the screens or just buy more?

Double weave TI screens are not cheap and also have to import from UK, so it is a headache..... I would like to find a solution to re-use the ones I have

 

[steama]

Hi guys!!!

Last weekend I noticed more draw resistance than usual in my FP SH, so I insoected closely and notices that the double weave ti screen was dirty, and that’s what’s adding resistance when I draw.

I tried cleaning with iso alcohol, but it hasn’t get any better, still opaque conoared to the brand new I boughy as backup.

How do you guys solve this issue? Do you clean the screens or just buy more?

Double weave TI screens are not cheap and also have to import from UK, so it is a headache..... I would like to find a solution to re-use the ones I have

You need to get a small jar or a prescription pill container with a small amount of ISO in it and drop the screen into the ISO and agitate. Then remove the screen and gently scrub with a toothbrush with the grain on both sides. Put it back into the ISO jar and agitate again. Take the screen out and see if it is clear. If not scrub the dirty area with the toothbrush again. Rinse in the ISO and then hold the screen up to the light to see if it is clear. Lastly I heat the screen with a bic lighter.

Usually all I do is one drop and one scrub. This all takes about 3 minutes max.

 

[Tuck]

I take mine out and torch it. Then throw it in with my titanium and small glass adapters into a freezer bag with iso, followed by a mean green soak.

 

[steama]

I take mine out and torch it. Then throw it in with my titanium and small glass adapters into a freezer bag with iso, followed by a mean green soak.

way too much work my friend

 

[xlr8shun]

i torch my double weaves...

remove screen, grab with forceps, torch till red hot. turn over to other side, repeat torching. wait 10-20 seconds (till cool) and brush ash off, reinsert into bowl

 

[Roth]

Use heat when soaking in ISO, makes a massive difference. I get some boiling water and pour it into a pot. I then put a small glass tupperware container into the hot water. In the tupperware I have ISO and my screens. Give a 5 min soak, spray off with the sink sprayer, and they're generally clean. If I let it go too long between cleanings, I might give one more soak.

 

[Pyr0]

I use storez&bickel brushes with iso to keep my double weave clean and chuck it on top of the showerhead to cook/dry after

 

[Roth]

I use storez&bickel brushes with iso to keep my double weave clean and chuck it on top of the showerhead to cook/dry after

Yep, forgot to mention that the S&B brushes in between bowls makes a huge difference keeping the screens clean. Never tried them with the ISO, will need to do that next time!

 

[Square4Life]

You need to get a small jar or a prescription pill container with a small amount of ISO in it and drop the screen into the ISO and agitate. Then remove the screen and gently scrub with a toothbrush with the grain on both sides. Put it back into the ISO jar and agitate again. Take the screen out and see if it is clear. If not scrub the dirty area with the toothbrush again. Rinse in the ISO and then hold the screen up to the light to see if it is clear. Lastly I heat the screen with a bic lighter.

Usually all I do is one drop and one scrub. This all takes about 3 minutes max.

I doubt everyone has this option although I have several screens in rotation. When one starts to clog up, I pop it out and throw it in ISO. Once I grab my last clean screen, I remove all of the screens from ISO and take to my air compressor. With the ISO and the air compressor, those babies come out perfectly clean/open. Just my method/.02

 

[Shrike]

Ultrasonic Cleaners work incredibly well for cleaning parts. I bought a really cheap ($20+) U.C around 1/2 year ago and love it!

I just take the bowl with the double weave screen left inside, unscrew the handle and put the bowl in a small baggie with iso in it. Add warm to hot water in the U.C. tank, lower the bag in and run it for one cycle, which lasts about 4-5 minutes. The bowl and screen come out spotless. Easy...peasy… This is so quick and easy, that I clean it a couple of times a week before it gets really gunked up.

I still own a Model 419 combustion pipe. It used to get so gunked up that I had to soak the parts for a couple of days in iso, then use pipe cleaners and a ton of q-tips to get it all cleaned up.

Now that I have the U.C., I put the parts in there for 3 cycles of 4 minutes each and the thing comes out shiny new. No q-tips...no pipe cleaners. Just rinse off with water and let dry...I'm a believer.

Plan on buying a larger model for my glass in the not too distant future. These things shave a ton off cleaning time.

 

[waxdab23]

Ultrasonic Cleaners work incredibly well for cleaning parts. I bought a really cheap ($20+) U.C around 1/2 year ago and love it!

I just take the bowl with the double weave screen left inside, unscrew the handle and put the bowl in a small baggie with iso in it. Add warm to hot water in the U.C. tank, lower the bag in and run it for one cycle, which lasts about 4-5 minutes. The bowl and screen come out spotless. Easy...peasy… This is so quick and easy, that I clean it a couple of times a week before it gets really gunked up.

I still own a Model 419 combustion pipe. It used to get so gunked up that I had to soak the parts for a couple of days in iso, then use pipe cleaners and a ton of q-tips to get it all cleaned up.

Now that I have the U.C., I put the parts in there for 3 cycles of 4 minutes each and the thing comes out shiny new. No q-tips...no pipe cleaners. Just rinse off with water and let dry...I'm a believer.

This is 100% exactly what I do as well.

 

[graydeh1]

S and B brushes work good, but a titanium brush really gets it clean, I bought one off Humboldtvapetech.com, I'm sure theres other sellers.

https://humboldtvapetech.com/product/vape-brush/

 

[Zangano Cruel]

i am happy to report that my new Ti heater coil post alleviates the sticking so much better than the SS one i have (Also rev 2). thanks all for your feedback when i was asking about it earlier in the thread!

i also ordered a couple SiC dishes and had newvape send me replacement head and carb cap for my v1 V-Rod. wow, i read the feedback stating that it was much easier to clean, but i just didnt realize exactly how much that would be.

granted i bet it would depend greatly on how clean your concentrates are, but after a dab i would q-tip and most of the time that required 2 q-tips, using both sides, thats 4 swabs (on quartz dish). now with the SiC dish, i find myself only having to use half of the q-tip. now just 1 swab with a bit of iso is enough to clean up after a dab

Did you tried swapping regular tap water for ISO??
Works excellent for me, cost free.
People use distilled water too.
Stay vaped...

 

[Vitolo]

I remove all of the screens from ISO and take to my air compressor

I hang on tight and carefully wrapping fingers/thumb around each screen (like saying "OK") and hold hand
around nozzle of a high powered shop-vac once out of the Iso scrubbing.
I cup fingers accordingly to increase/lessen the suction at the screen.

 

[pxl_jockey]

ISO soak and a pass with a cheap oral-b *sonic* toothbrush for screens. I also use this toothbrush on Grinder Cleaning Day, but only with hot soapy water as instructed by NV genius Edwyn.

Used to use ISO on my grinders as well until he learned me better. So much simpler, so much easier.

Don’t keep this “vape” toothbrush in the bathroom or you risk accidentally using it. Or the missus!

 

[canj00digit?]

S and B brushes work good, but a titanium brush really gets it clean, I bought one off Humboldtvapetech.com, I'm sure theres other sellers.

https://humboldtvapetech.com/product/vape-brush/

Good call.

Those little stainless steel brushes (the one in your link is SS as well) are indeed very handy in the vape world for many tasks, they help clean up bangers well also.

On Ebay you can get pack of 5 for $1.19 shipped.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/5Pcs-Steel...012973?hash=item33d708d76d:g:zJsAAOSwLiJZwgB~

 

[Hogni]

But he was talking about titanium brushes

 

[graydeh1]

My bad, its metal. SS. Works really really well as a poker and brush.

And nice price you found on ebay, Ill order those!

Edit:
The threading on the one I grabbed off hvt fits into the V-Rod carb cap also.

 

[pxl_jockey]

As far as an honest true-blue Ti brush, like for detail cleaning or flux, I’d love to see what other folks say.
Here are the only ones that I’ve been able to find, via Errlectric. They’re $20 US per each, or $66 for 5.

I also wonder if having a brush with titanium wire bristles would really be advantageous (& how) or would it be harmful to the other metal surfaces of the object being cleaned, or if it’s meant to only clean other titanium objects. I don’t know, I’m not that clever, but I do know the guy who most likely does.
Oh @invertedisdead Your general materials knowledge skills are needed!

 

[Pyr0]

The metal brushes I've seen are a little too stiff for my liking. I prefer something more flexible and softer.
Dipping the s&b brush in iso and giving a gentle swirl on top of some kitchen towel has been enough to keep my single screen in good condition with no fraying so far.

 

[Hogni]

@NewVape710 I think NV should offer their own titanium brushes. I'm sure there are a lot of people who would buy them

 

[steama]

The metal brushes I've seen are a little too stiff for my liking. I prefer something more flexible and softer.
Dipping the s&b brush in iso and giving a gentle swirl on top of some kitchen towel has been enough to keep my single screen in good condition with no fraying so far.

Make sure that you only use titanium brushes on titanium vape parts. I believe Edwyn mentioned using metals like stainless steel brushes on titanium produces lead deposits on the Ti.

this can be scraped clean with a pure titanium wedge dabber then soaked in alcohol. Using any metal other than grade 2 titanium will contaminate the titanium with lead deposits.
https://www.newvape.com/dabber-wedge-pencil-combo-2114

 

[invertedisdead]

As far as an honest true-blue Ti brush, like for detail cleaning or flux, I’d love to see what other folks say.
Here are the only ones that I’ve been able to find, via Errlectric. They’re $20 US per each, or $66 for 5.

I also wonder if having a brush with titanium wire bristles would really be advantageous (& how) or would it be harmful to the other metal surfaces of the object being cleaned, or if it’s meant to only clean other titanium objects. I don’t know, I’m not that clever, but I do know the guy who most likely does.
Oh @invertedisdead Your general materials knowledge skills are needed!

I brush my Flowerpot bowl out with a Storz-Bickel brush after every bowl and it never really gets dirty. I also Q tip the bottom of the bowl from the joint up to the screen to clean any condensed resins. I do have a double weave screen but not an Adjustabowl, so I've only used the single weave screens thus far.

I think @BornAgainSteama quote from @NewVape710 hit the nail on the head, but here's a quote from
Gordon Brush Company on the subject.

When a titanium part is brushed with a stainless steel brush, small amounts of the stainless steel are abraded from the brush fiber and embedded in the surface of the titanium. The two dissimilar metals are physically bound. When moisture is added, the result is the creation of a battery and the start of galvanic corrosion.

Galvanic corrosion (also called dissimilar metal corrosion) refers to corrosion damage induced when two dissimilar materials are coupled in a corrosive environment. When a galvanic couple forms, the least noble of the metals in the couple becomes the anode [the stainless steel] and corrodes faster than it would all by itself, while the other becomes the cathode [the titanium part] and corrodes slower than it would alone. "A small anodic area relative to the cathodic area should be avoided"

 

[Pyr0]

Make sure that you only use titanium brushes on titanium vape parts. I believe Edwyn mentioned using metals like stainless steel brushes on titanium produces lead deposits on the Ti.

Yeah sorry I should have specified.
I do have a little ti brush, but never use it with any flowerpot parts.
I only use the storz&bickel brush for my screen