beefsupreme
Well-Known Member
Definitely remove the tiny filter in the WPA and use the ELB with the basket top instead. Never ever get a clog that way. ELBs make the bowl super easy to swap when you're done too.
Boundless CF / CFX / CF-Hybrid
- Thread starter smokey_da_vape
- Start date
-
- Tags
- boundless
Definitely remove the tiny filter in the WPA and use the ELB with the basket top instead. Never ever get a clog that way. ELBs make the bowl super easy to swap when you're done too.
Dynalowrider
Well-Known Member
Open up the WPA and put a screen in there. It will collect condensate vapor. When it gets nice and gooey, pull it out, fold it up, and vape it. You will like it. Doc
grokit
well-worn member
Does it just pop off? I tried with a dabbing tool and it didn't budge.
Shall I lean into it with a full-size screwdriver?
Likes2vape
Well-Known Member
It unscrews from the wpa.Does it just pop off? I tried with a dabbing tool and it didn't budge.
Shall I lean into it with a full-size screwdriver?
beefsupreme
Well-Known Member
Does it just pop off? I tried with a dabbing tool and it didn't budge. Shall I lean into it with a full-size screwdriver?
I unscrewed it with just my fingers. If yours is stuck, try using it for a session to heat it up and loosen any honey in the threads, and then it should pop right off.
SloJimFizz
Unknown Member
Been getting back into my regular rotation after a few honeymoons and the CF has been getting some playing time.
All this WPA talk made me break mine out. So awesome through water.
All this WPA talk made me break mine out. So awesome through water.
I put a honey catcher screen in the regular mouth piece. Where in the WPA do you put the screen, after removing the stock screen nipple thing?
Dynalowrider
Well-Known Member
The cone unscrews and can be used on male fittings. Put a screen in the cone in place of the stock screen. If home I always vape through water. The screen gets dewey real fast, and tastes great. Doc
SloJimFizz
Unknown Member
Ah. When I removed my screen, I just left that cone nut that holds the screen in, off and in the drawer with the screen piece.
Just scraped the walls of the wpa and got a decent blob of honey I placed on the Saionara.
Just scraped the walls of the wpa and got a decent blob of honey I placed on the Saionara.
Dynalowrider
Well-Known Member
That would be where I would put the screen. I have the CF, CFX, and the CFV. I like the CF the best of the Boundless vapes I guess. The best thing I like about the Boundless line is the WPA. Doc
grokit
well-worn member
I can't believe I didn't try unscrewing that thing on my own, fc rocks thanks peeps 
I have these weird rimmed screens that fit perfect inside the boundless mouthpiece.
I'm glad I finally found a use for them
The elb lid fits now, just not as perfectly as it does on the mouthpiece because it doesn't stick to it. A 14mm basket screen does but don't bother it doesn't work. Now it's a bit easier to swap out pre-loaded elb's, but more difficult to r&r a single elb with the cap. So while that's kind of a wash, I like drawing directly on the elb better than the mouthpiece, and of course it mates with waterpipes. I forgot to clean it and it tasted weird though. I swabbed it and nothing visible came off, but I think I'll give it a good iso soak anyways.
I have these weird rimmed screens that fit perfect inside the boundless mouthpiece.
I'm glad I finally found a use for them
The elb lid fits now, just not as perfectly as it does on the mouthpiece because it doesn't stick to it. A 14mm basket screen does but don't bother it doesn't work. Now it's a bit easier to swap out pre-loaded elb's, but more difficult to r&r a single elb with the cap. So while that's kind of a wash, I like drawing directly on the elb better than the mouthpiece, and of course it mates with waterpipes. I forgot to clean it and it tasted weird though. I swabbed it and nothing visible came off, but I think I'll give it a good iso soak anyways.
SloJimFizz
Unknown Member
I think that's why I left the cone nut screenholder off cause it was making it tough to put the wpa on with the capped elb in the chamber, that thing sticking down bumped into the lid of the elb.
kushtopherkolumbus
New Member
I have the WPA + d020-d & elbs. It just doesnt rip that much. I started at 410/420/430 - and it just doesn't "rip". The vapor is light and the pipe barely gets full.
it rips in this video so I know its not getting a ton of vapor.
Likes2vape
Well-Known Member
ELB = easy load bowl from vapexhale
WPA = water pipe adapter
If you mean vvps = variable voltage power supply I'm not sure what wps is. You don't need a vvps for the boundless units.
@Boundless Vape Technology when are the new units due for release??
Mr. Me2
Well-Known Member
It's funny, I thought this resource link would give you the answer, but none are in the glossary. Go figure...
[vaporpedia link removed due to malware]
Last edited by a moderator:
Likes2vape
Well-Known Member
Sounds like you may have a faulty unit. I have no problem milking any glass piece with or with out the the elbs. How does it do without the elbs?
Summer
Long Island, NY
Thank you so much @Likes2vape! It is vvps, but I saw wps. 
@Mr.Me2 , I did look in the Glossary before I posted.
Gotta find out how to add missing acronyms.
Update: I pm'd the mods to see if theyhink these acronyms are worthy of inclusion. Need log-in approval to update glossary.
@Mr.Me2 , I did look in the Glossary before I posted.
Gotta find out how to add missing acronyms.Update: I pm'd the mods to see if theyhink these acronyms are worthy of inclusion. Need log-in approval to update glossary.
Last edited:
Hey @Likes2vape we are hoping to have all of the new units out by the end of the year with the first one expected to be released early October. We are expecting the Tera to be released first and will follow with the CFX 2.0 and the Core. Once I have a confirmation on the dates I will be sure to share with the community.
If anyone has questions please feel free to ask via PM or my email: Eric@bndlstech.com
We will also be live streaming today at 4:00PM PST here:
Meach
Well-Known Member
Really moist herb can be the culprit..also have you modded the mouthpiece screen with an elb top hat or screen?
Also make sure the top unit is secured correctly my wife was complaining about weak vapor output..came to find out vapor was leaking out the sides..the cooling unit wasn't locked in place ..but the strong magnets made here think it was closed properly ..so double check that..and try some dried herb..some strains honestly don't produce dense vapor..
Mr K
Member
New guy here. I've had the CFX for about two months, just ran into this thread because I was wondering about the whole convection conduction discussion.
So, I just used my laser thermometer to test the chamber temperature without any vegetation in there. I set the temp to 430, waiting for two minutes. The chamber temp never reached above 115F, hardly much conduction. But, the temperature of the silver collar above the chamber did get to 225F at the front of the unit, but only about 125 at the rear of that same collar. Something must be running up the front of the unit to make that top half hot. But like I said, it was just the front of the top collar, not in the chamber where the vegetation goes. Just saying.
After two months I really like the CFX. I think the taste it gives is phenomenal, battery life great, easy to use, there ins't anything I don't like about it. Except, I go through a lot more vegetation then when I smoked from a bowl. This is my first portable vaporizer, but found the same issue with a balloon vape I had. From what I've read, vaping should conserve matter because combustion actually degrades much of the THC. I can believe that, but I am definitely using more vegetation vaporizing than combusting.
So, I just used my laser thermometer to test the chamber temperature without any vegetation in there. I set the temp to 430, waiting for two minutes. The chamber temp never reached above 115F, hardly much conduction. But, the temperature of the silver collar above the chamber did get to 225F at the front of the unit, but only about 125 at the rear of that same collar. Something must be running up the front of the unit to make that top half hot. But like I said, it was just the front of the top collar, not in the chamber where the vegetation goes. Just saying.
After two months I really like the CFX. I think the taste it gives is phenomenal, battery life great, easy to use, there ins't anything I don't like about it. Except, I go through a lot more vegetation then when I smoked from a bowl. This is my first portable vaporizer, but found the same issue with a balloon vape I had. From what I've read, vaping should conserve matter because combustion actually degrades much of the THC. I can believe that, but I am definitely using more vegetation vaporizing than combusting.
From what I can see of the design it is heated both on the outside of the chamber and as it comes into it via the spiral heat sink, for lack of a better term. It is an oven though. Your not going to get a true temp reading, I believe, with the door open-so to speak. The mouth piece would have to be on to get it, really, up to temp. Also I find I use less material when vamping as it takes, for me anyway, less draws to get the same effect. I say that also to emphasize, for me anyway, that vamping gives me a different buzz than smoking did.
Likes2vape
Well-Known Member
I found when I first switched from smoking to vaping I vaped more material in the beginning. Now I use less than I would if were smoking but I wouldn't say it conserves material I still go through quite a bit. The cfx also has a really big oven so if you're filling it you could be using extra material that way as well. One nice thing about the cfx is that you don't have to fill it all the way to make clouds.
KeroZen
Chronic vapaholic
There's your problem most likely. Try using a contact thermometer like a thermocouple.
Mr K
Member
Laser thermometers measure the surface temperature of a material. The only error with these is with highly reflective surfaces, which the inside of that chamber is not.
KeroZen
Chronic vapaholic
Well firstly no need to be condescending. 
Then, and I'm quoting the product features from PIU here:
CFX Key Features:
So what are you trying to prove? We know it's a hybrid heating method vape but there's definitely some significant amount of conduction going on here (it's greatly "inspired" by the Mighty after all)
The oven is ceramic which is glazed, meaning there is a shiny glass-like layer covering it, precisely what your IR thermometer doesn't like. Then you proceed by telling us that you measured the shiny metal ring on top, so I re-iterate my above remark: try using a contact thermometer if you want meaningful data.
Then if you want to quantify the conduction amount, load your bowl with herbs, let it settle to your vaporization temperature of choice (a realistic one that is) wait about 30 second for the heat to fully soak the ceramic (which is classified as an insulator especially with glazing, albeit a poor one) then shine a flash-light across the open bowl and see if you can detect any wisp of rising vapor or not.
Also let the herb sit in there for a 5 minutes session without drawing and remove it. If it changed color then you got your answer: something must be happening that is likely due to the conduction and radiant components of your equation.
Then, and I'm quoting the product features from PIU here:
CFX Key Features:
- Convection/Conduction Hybrid
- Ceramic Heating Chamber
So what are you trying to prove? We know it's a hybrid heating method vape but there's definitely some significant amount of conduction going on here (it's greatly "inspired" by the Mighty after all)
The oven is ceramic which is glazed, meaning there is a shiny glass-like layer covering it, precisely what your IR thermometer doesn't like. Then you proceed by telling us that you measured the shiny metal ring on top, so I re-iterate my above remark: try using a contact thermometer if you want meaningful data.
Then if you want to quantify the conduction amount, load your bowl with herbs, let it settle to your vaporization temperature of choice (a realistic one that is) wait about 30 second for the heat to fully soak the ceramic (which is classified as an insulator especially with glazing, albeit a poor one) then shine a flash-light across the open bowl and see if you can detect any wisp of rising vapor or not.
Also let the herb sit in there for a 5 minutes session without drawing and remove it. If it changed color then you got your answer: something must be happening that is likely due to the conduction and radiant components of your equation.