Best of the Underdog Vaporizer thread

[Slightly Medicated]

After many long hours of work and many hours testing/using this vaporizer... I am finally finished up with my review of the Underdogs. As you guys know I love my dogs. They have been preforming well since they day they got here. I feel like I covered all the bases in the review. I know there is a real lack of reviews on the Underdogs. I hope that my article can help educate more poeple about this product. If you feel like I left something out, please let me know. I can always edit what I wrote and fix any errors. I am always thankful for input from the community. You can read the post here.

Enjoy The Video:

 

[SD_haze]

Just received my new UD this afternoon and thought I'd drop in to share the experience so far. First of all, nice job on the packing Dave, and thank you for the extras!

My UD is a good deal smaller than my PD, which was a nice surprise. The wood design is beautiful and it looks fantastic on my desk.

I have to admit, I was not completely happy with the silicone stems at first glance because they seemed less like a finished product compared to the PD ones - I could make one of these things, and that says a lot coming from someone with no mechanical skills whatsoever.

Plugged it in and let it heat up for an hour before testing it. I was very surprised at how hot it is to hold - definitely hotter than my PD, but not uncomfortable.

I loaded a full PD stem's worth into the UD stem so I could compare the performance.

Then I had my first session with my UD, and WOW does this vaporizer perform.

The taste was great, very clean, and overall pretty similar to my PD. But I was taking these HUGE hits with the UD effortlessly. No technique to worry about. No resistance at all. It reminded me of taking a hit from my old SSV but from a log vape. This thing is powerful.

Not only that, I even got more hits than I typically would with my PD! It's incredibly efficient. And my ABV is a nice, even brown.

Needless to say, I'm very impressed with my UD and I'm looking forward to many sessions with it. Couldn't care less now about the silicone stems. In fact, I think I love them, because they're really easy to clean and they help produce tremendous clouds.

Very happy with my new purchase. I think I may even buy a nice glass bong now to go with it.

Coming from the same log vape stems as the PD, I too felt underwhelmed by the simplicity of the silicone stems, but when you say "I could make one of these things", thats exactly the point.

Instead of spending $10 for an extra stem, you can buy 2 feet of tubing & a bag of screens for $10 and make twenty stems.
So now, I definitely like being able to make a new one !poof! whenever I want.

 

[underdog]

I'll keep my eyes open for a white piece of BM there OTA.. ;-)

So what other Logs do you have on the way?

For trying to sand out a little dent you'll probably want to use 240 grit for trying to remove it then 320, 400 and 600 grits to bring the finish back to the same state as the rest of the piece. If the dent is too deep you very well might not be able to sand it out so it kind of depends on that.

 

[underdog]

Hey stickstones, ok I'll head over there and be happy to discuss that stuff.

<reposted again from the materials thread>

@ stickstones - (per your comment in the UD thread) as I touched on in some of my posts earlier in this thread I think that one of the important aspects of core design is to decide whether an open core or a closed core is appropriate for the design in question. As a manufacturer I've obviously given this some thought so lets discuss it.

So as to not have to retype what I already wrote I'm copying and pasting my comments from earlier:

With core / air path design I think one has to first decide whether or not the core should be closed or open.

If it's open you'll have exposure to the heated wood, potential charring, the solder and flux and the metal/plastic power plug assembly.

If it's closed you can eliminate exposure to those materials but at the expense of potential exposure to whatever material is being used to close the core.

In my design I decided I'd rather attempt to seal the core and deal with the potential exposure to the silicone from that little wire gap past the bead. To me that was the lesser of the evils and so that's the design I chose to go with. Of course other people might make a different decision and luckily I can accommodate that choice if requested.

I think my earlier comments sum up situation fairly well.

Closed Cores:

• The pros of closing the core are greater ability to control exposure to any undesirable elements, control over the path air takes in the product and even potential performance gains because of the better air control.

• The cons are increased manufacturing complexity and expense, some design constraints and having to choose a material with which to close the core. The material used to close the core needs to be safe, practical to use, an electrical insulator and able to withstand continuous temperatures in the 400 degree range. For me silicone has been the best material I've found for closing the core as in my mind it meets all those criteria and does a great job in practice.

Open Cores:

• The pros of an open core are simplified design and manufacturing, a much easier ability to design a user serviceable vaporizer and no need to find a solution to the problem of how to close a core.

• The cons are significant design constraints (like having to have an inline power plug and resistor for example), increased difficultly controlling the air path/flow and having to be concerned about multiple material safety issues instead of just one. Exposure to the heated wood, potential charring, the solder and flux and the metal/plastic power plug assembly to me are the primary material safety concerns with this type of core.

Many types of wood used in Log vapes (including common domestic ones not just exotics) are respiratory irritants and quite a few are outright toxic to varying degrees. There is also the possibility of inhaling charred material and while I don't know the potential concerns of that it doesn't seem like a good thing if it can be avoided. The solder (even lead free) has the potential exposure hazard of various metal toxicities and the flux as well. The metal/plastic power plug assemblies are usually what would be considered "pot metal" and are of unknown alloys and materials made at the lowest possible cost in China which I think is a concern as well.

It's my belief that a vape core design is a compromise and balancing act between the above pros and cons for both types. For my design (and I'm not saying mine is best) I decided that I was more comfortable with the glass bead/silicone potting and being potentially exposed to the little bit of silicone vs being exposed to the rest of the vape materials in totality. With the open core (and I did experiment with some) I just couldn't get behind the idea that anything coming off any part of the vape and it's materials would just waft right up the core and into my stem. I decided I'd take my chances with the silicone and still think that's the right choice for UD.

::edited to add the following::

The resistor that all log manufacturers use (to my knowledge) is a resistance wire (Nichrome probably) that's wrapped around a ceramic body and then coated with a mineral fire retardant. I don't know that there are any material safety concerns with the resistor but there could be due to potential metal toxicity of Nichrome along with the unknowns of the fire retardant material, I imagine the ceramic itself is probably inert. I doubt that as long as it's intact and not abused the resistor is much of a concern. I do think a screen in the core is good if for no other reason than to help stop any large particulate from escaping the core should the resistor suffer any damage.

 

[underdog]

Thanks OTA, that description helps. So, is the thicker silicone also 3/8" ID, ie the thicker walled silicone I provide? If so how easy is it to stretch over the thinner walled stuff?

---------------------------------------------------------------------------

As promised in the materials safety thread (copied and pasted from that thread) here is a diagram of the UD core and its air path.

The air comes in down past the teeth in the area between the walls and the center tube until it gets to the bottom of the core then makes a u-turn and heads back up past the resistor and out the center tube into the stem.

The core is closed and the air isn't allowed a path other than as described. The air path is the stainless steel core, the resistor, the top half of the glass bead and in the .03" gap where the one wire runs beside the bead a tiny bit of silicone.

Now that I've posted a diagram maybe others will also be as transparent and do the same.

Since this is a thread on material safety (and seems to be morphing into one of design as well) and not limited to the UD I think it'd be great to see other manufactures do the same and contribute details of their products to the thread.

 

[underdog]

Additionally, as part of this evenings announcements I'd like to share some info on some of our ongoing R&D work with you all.

The following projects are underway, some farther along than others but all in the works and all with a hopeful release date within the next year. Information may be limited at this point but figured you guys might find it fun to know now vs later even if it does spoil the surprise.

I already have a nice experienced group of testers and don't plan on adding many more but if you think you would make a good addition to the testing team please let me know privately, and please explain why. Any of you who may be testing these or any other units please don't share as of yet, this notice doesn't mean we're in open testing yet, thanks!

Desktop UD (aka The Doghouse)
The Doghouse is a desktop Underdog that is designed to give the same white-walling performance that you're all used to in your Log but in a form factor that better supports the use of whips. They'll likely come in a variety of shapes and sizes including boxlike ones, ones similar to the Tortuga UD models, and models integrated into things like boxes and large stem caddies. As is the norm for UD custom pieces will also be made upon request. We will of course offer glass (and wood) whip mouthpieces. A forced air model (or possible add-on) is also planned. Prices TBA.

The Vegan Dog
The Vegan Dog is a model for the purists out there. It is designed to feature an air path that is isolated from the wooden body (non-wooden bodies may be offered as well) and to also be user serviceable including the replacement of the heating element. This model will be offered in models free of adhesives and silicone and will offer the purchaser a choice of health smart finishes. These pieces will offer bottoms including plain or patterned bare wood, felt or traditional leather. Sizes and styles offered will be similar to that of the standard UD line. Wood, as is standard for UD vapes will be sourced from vetted FSC certified sources. Prices TBA.

Little Dog (aka 1/4" cored Twig)
The Little Dog is the long awaited revision of the 1/4" cored Twig. Revision will bring it up to date with the standard UD line in terms of features and performance while retaining the classic 1/4" cores amazing kung-fu conservation potential. The revision will also allow for 24/7 operation and improved heat protection of the wooden body. Sizes and styles offered will be similar to the standard UD line, though custom pieces smaller than a standard size UD may be available. Prices should be in line with standard UDs.

The Underdog XL (aka Big Dog)
The Big Dog is a design some of you requested and we've been working on for a while. It is similar in design to the standard UDs but will allow bigger, badder hits that let you deliver medicine faster and in bigger doses. It will be offered in shapes, sizes, and materials similar to that of the standard UD line. Prices TBA.

Cerberus (aka multi-core)
Cerberus will be a beast, aDog with multiple heads, I mean cores. Like a multi-stemmed hookah but sexier and meaner, a real vapor breathing monster. This guy should be a real party pleaser and will be available in a variety of shapes, sizes and materials. It is intended for whip use and custom mouthpieces will be offered. Some might be stocked occasionally but these will probably primarily be custom pieces. Plans are to offer Cerberus in models with as few as 3 cores and as many as 11. Prices TBA.


So there you go, there are the hot items on our active R&D list.. there are a couple other projects that I considered mentioning but decided to hold off for now. Don't want to throw you Dogs too many bones all at once lol. Pictures and details will probably be scarce until we move into open testing with each model, until then you'll have to use your imaginations. If any of you have suggestions you'd like considered for any of the designs please feel free to make them if you'd like.

::edited for typos and formatting::

 

[Stu]

This is a strange post, but indulge me....

My boss just called me and insisted that I make this post. I lent him my UD a while ago and he has yet to return it. So when I picked up one of Dave's new stems, I gave it to him (for now) to try it out. Well, he knows that I post on FC and just skyped me and demanded that I let everyone know that Dave's wooden stems are "the shit" and that the taste was "fucking awesome" and that it even mated nicely with his bubbler.

There....I'm done working for the night. I hope to corraborate my bosses' claims with my own testing someday. Someday.



edit because I know he'll read this: Blowing out a spent bowl is much easier than with the silicone stem as the screen is seated so there is no fear of blowing it out.

Now I'm done. Clocking out.

 

[underdog]

Hey guys, hope you're all having a good time and enjoying a foggy weekend?

We're making some website adjustments and I thought I'd let you all know.

Instead of the standard "standard kit" a vape purchase will now require that you select what kind of stems and aroma cup/hook setup you want with the piece. I think this is a good move and will let you get just what you want and will use while also reducing waste since I won't have to supply you with stuff you don't want or need.

Check out any available vape in the catalog and you'll see the drop down box and the choices it gives you.

Thanks!

 

[Stu]

My puppy's back home!

I am so excited to get my UD back from my boss so I can test out the new stem with it. His power supply took a shit, so I told him I needed it back to "do some diagnostics" (total BS lie.... I know it just needs a new power supply) so it's home with me now for the first time in a couple months. We're having a homecoming party now, so y'all are welcome to fire up your UD and celebrate with me.


edit: I forgot to mention that the tapered end of the stem makes for easy mating with both 14mm and 18mm downstems.

 

[happyTrails]

hey guys i may be having a medicated moment but is there a general consensus on the depth of the screen in the thick wall silicone stem or is it just trial and error depending on the power supply.

I keep mine about 3/4 of an inch from the end of the tube. I suck a "duggout/bat" size load in there by using the stem like a straw (so a pretty small amount). I tamp it in with the back of a nail and stir with the nail point after the 2nd or 3rd rip. Usually get 3-4 solid foggy beaker loads (maybe 1 or 2 more wispy ones) and then both the stem and I are cashed.

The efficiency of this thing blows my mind. I just got a Solo and like it for what it is, but in terms of efficiency, the UD is simply amazing!

 

[Peloton]

How often is everyone applying under butter to their dogs? What techniques is everybody using? I'm loving my UD, I want to keep it cherry.

The best thing to use that everyone has is part of a cotton shirt, IMO. I just ripped the sleeve off an old (clean) work shirt, that's what I apply underbutter with. I take my time with her, methodically working the butter into the thirsty grain as I admire her beauty. I am a little obsessive about keeping my dog buttered up, I usually do it every 2-3 days to keep her shining.

EDIT: Based off of prior knowledge dabbling in wood working, IMO the best way to apply underbutter is a small amount at a time on your applicator, and working it well into the grain with circling motions. I always wax mine under a lamp, so I can see which spots have already had butter worked in. Ideally after applying, you want it to be left with a lustrous sheen, and a slight stickiness for a while as the remaining butter on the surface gets sucked into the wood. There shouldn't be any to wipe off afterwards after being worked in, if there is you probably could have used less butter. It really is beautiful to see what a little elbow grease does

 

[underdog]

@ BlazedRunner - I don't know anything about the Solo but as far as the UD is concerned there isn't any appreciable drop in temp between or during hits. There's enough energy going into the UD core that supply isn't a problem and enough stainless steel to retain the heat during use.

Hey UDs we're still working on the site, decided to rebuild on an updated framework while we were in there so it's taking longer than anticipated, sorry about that. Also unfortunately the file structure of the site has changed and so all previous images posted in the forum here (and other places) are going to be broken indefinitely.

If anyone needs to put in an order just contact me directly via email or through private message and I'll take care of it manually. On the bright side all this should eventually result in a more stable site and also let us implement new features more easily. Also it'll be at least 500% more awesome. At least.

All this down time has meant I've had plenty of time to spend in the shop and I've got a growing herd of Puppies to show for it, neatly organized (kind of) on their own shelves:

(Pup slides closed)

(bottom Pup slide open)

(top Pup slide open)

 

[underdog]

Yeah that's going to run it a bit hotter than the stock supply.

The stock supply is unregulated so varies by input voltage and typically outputs between 13.25v and 13.75v with 13.4v to 13.5v being the norm. So I would imagine it would be ok but I'd have to leave it to your own judgement, maybe try it for a day that you're around to check on it periodically (if you haven't already done this) and see how you feel after a trial period.

If I had to make a guess I'd say it'd probably be fine, it might increase the wear and tear a bit but probably not by a real significant amount.

 

[underdog]

Hey Dogs and Dudes how's it going around these parts? Hope everyone is having a fun, foggy weekend.

Just wanted to take a quick couple minutes to introduce you all to some new glass stems. These have been being tested for a few months and now that we're happy with the designs they will be available within a couple days as we add them to the website.

All the stems will be available as stocked items on the website and also as customized pieces (shape, length, mouth-end style, etc).

To those of you who have been testing them for us I'd like to say thanks and thanks for not talking about them during our closed beta but now you're free to talk, post pics, review, critique.. whatever.

So, here's a quick lineup of the new "all glass" stems, they each have their purposes and fill a different niche. All are made with high quality, thick-walled, Schott glass and are made in house. Screens are removable and are secured in the ground band area by friction. The silicone tips act as a compression fitting and make an incredibly good seal and attach the stems firmly to the vape.

Happy to answer any questions regarding the various models and their uses, prices haven't been set yet but will be as they get put on the website.

Hopefully some beta testers can also share some tips, tricks, suggestions, etc that they may have learned over the last few months.

 

[underdog]

Hey Treecity wow thanks for all the info dude..!

So far I've just kind of bounced around and made everything 'by eye' so the measurements aren't really consistent but I'm sure average close to the numbers you posted. Standard production pieces will probably be close to what I sent you in regard to numbers.

I'll be able to make them to custom spec too for only a small up-charge, stuff like tip shape for the XL2 and the placement of grind zone for screen placement, also of course things like overall length, etc as well.

Regardless of whether they're 'off-the-shelf' or 'custom' stems they should ship out in 1-2 business days as usual.

I also have what I call a 'MicroStem' which has a similar performance profile to the old 1/4" stems. These are made with the same tubing the 'Simple Glass Stems (SGS)' are but with a grind on the ID for the screen, the silicone tip is for seal. They are basically for those who want an incredibly small hit and a hard draw (restricted airflow). Unloaded (of herb not the screen) it can be used as the tube of a SGS or for the 'SuperStem'.

The 'SuperStem' is just a 'WaterPipeBowl (WPB)' that's stuck on a SGS tube but works awesomely enough that it'll be listed as it's own product option.

MicroStem

SuperStem

and lastly here's a shot of the whole glass stem family, with a Twig for size comparison. Seems like most people don't realize just how big the XL and especially XL2 stems are without seeing them in person so maybe this will help. An SGS will actually fit inside the ID of the XL2 cork and all!

Glass Stem Family Photo

 

[underdog]

Hey mvapes all the cores are 24/7 now so we don't bother labeling them as such since it's the standard now so yeah all the insulated cores are fine for 24/7 use no worries. You can tell if your core is a classic 24/7 one or an insulated one but the diameter of the core-hole and the look of the core itself. The classic 24/7 one will be approximately 3/4" wide (the hole in the wooden body) whereas the insulated is 1". The insulated also has a visible 'ring' around the core when you look down on it from the top.

The WPB-GonG works with the insulated cores but not the older classic 24/7 ones because the smaller hole is too small for the glass to seat fully and it doesn't reach/make a good seal.

 

[tig420]

anybody ever take their dog to the waterfall?

 

[underdog]

Hey guys, wow lots of posts since I last stopped in.. looks like most questions have once again been answered by our fellow Dogs. You guys are like an awesome perpetual-vapor-motion-question-anwering-machine and I like it.

Anyways it's been asked a few times so I'll officially chime in: all the pieces on the site have the newest insulated 24/7 core and all are 3/8", we're not offering the 1/4" cores anymore. To help minimize confusion to newer pack members we'll probably remove the 1/4" accessories from the site soon, though they will still be available by request.

Lots to do today so I have to split, starting final (pre-testing) assembly on the Pups for the current refresh and hopefully they'll be done this time next week and added to the site for some weekend shopping.. looks like we'll have an even 20 of them this time.

Alright, time to open the shop.. later Dogs.

 

[underdog]

A full size piece will be slower to heat up fully and will run at a slightly lower temp than a smaller piece like a Twig. For most people this isn't an issue as we have the UD designed to run hot to begin with so the loss of a bit of heat isn't that noticeable to many. Full size pieces have some advantages in durability (thicker wood) and more design options.

For those that want to squeeze all available heat out a Twig is a better option, or one can use a VVPS with any size Dog.

 

[underdogette]

Hey Skuma - All UDs since 2012 have the 3/8 inch core, including all twigs. The primary difference between twigs and full size pieces is durability. Twigs, by their nature of having less wood, will be less durable. We've discontinued the 1/4 inch core. The Water Pipe Adapter GONG will still use silicone on the side that connects to the UD, but does not need silicone on the side connected to your glass. I'll let everyone else answer the question about glass stems vs. silicone - I think it's really personal preference, though it seems that UDs like the silicone for glass use. When ordering silicone tubing - I have removed the option for 1/4 inch. For those of you who have a 1/4 inch core - just include a note with your orders that specifies that size.

The variable power supply cord is a custom cord that we make and not available anywhere else to my knowledge. Just make sure you talk to us and let us know what kind of variable power supply you plan to buy as there are different connectors depending on what you get.

I'd have to say UD performs extremely well in most any situations, but of course I'm biased, so I'll let everyone else chime in on that one too. UDs are known to be good vapes for those trying to quit combusting.

Saludos!

 

[Rick]

Just want to add a follow up to my last post on Daves thread. Things got a little jumbled over the last week but the fog is lifting now.
I recently had an opportunity to try a new spalted maple twig from Dave. A close friend got one and invited me over. Dogs work very well, period. Very good vapor producer and beautiful wood work.
Since we are forced out of business, my recommendation for a log vape is the UD.
Product and customer service are excellent. Dave takes his job very seriously and it shows.

 

[underdog]

@ Underdog , thank you , so how would i run it at the same temperature as my pd? is that possible? do you mean it depends on the wood etc , is the voltage the same 12v?
So ash is much harder than poplar, is there any harder than ash ?, if so can you name the harder 1's you currently have in stock or about to make.
So it would be less effort extracting the vapor with a hotter running log? , though im still inclined to want a cooler running one because ive become hooked on my pd and the rate it extracts , but i have not decided yet.

A variable power supply would be the best way of running a Dog at a lower voltage and is really a pretty worthwhile investment for only $30-$40 for a decent one. Alternatively you could use an LED dimmer ($10+) with the stock UD power supply to lower the temp for sessions though it seems like it's hard to find a decent quality one and it seems like they burn out (the LED dimmer) if left 'on' too long (from what other Dogs report lately). Lastly you could always buy a separate power supply for lower voltages, say like a 12 or 12.5v regulated power supply from Jameco for probably $10-$15. As far as harder woods, yes there are many harder woods than Ash but it's not practical to try and fine-tune the temp a Dog might run at based on wood density to that level of accuracy if that's what you're thinking, if that's your goal then see the above about power supply options. In regard to extracting vapor to me I think a hotter running vape makes it 'easier' to extract more. It's really hard for me to make direct comparisons from UD to PDs as they (in my mind) apples and oranges, the UD isn't based on the PD so it's a totally different performance curve and usage experience. Maybe some of the other people here in the thread who own both and have used both could chime in with some more useful and less biased info?


@ Rick - I agree completely with your assessment of the power supplies, my experience has been very similar.. that being said I did just order one of those baby-VVPS units to test out, will see how it goes when it arrives, if it arrives lol.

@ HoneyAir - The UD isn't user serviceable and is put together much differently than the PD so replacing the resistor is a fairly straightforward task for me here in a well stocked shop but not so much so for a home user. Doing this on the UD is also what I consider a 'destructive disassemble' in that it typically requires the actually drilling out of a good chunk of wood, the wiring and power plug are almost always damaged/destroyed during this process as well and are typically replaced along with the resistor. Also for what it's worth the resistor typically isn't the point of failure on an UD, 90% of the time a failure is in the power plug as they don't always handle the UD heat well. This is more of a concern in the smaller pieces like Twigs or when pieces are run over-voltage as well.

Ok, moving on.. just finished up a custom piece (hope the potential owner likes it!) in the shop today, the piece that I showed the rough form a couple days back with the jack'o'lantern face on it. I've changed the shape a bit but left the face, sanded and finished the piece. I've been calling it the Halloweenie. Picture below (Chilean Laurel Burl):

Also I paid a visit to a cool guy here locally who happens to be one of the only arborists licensed to do work with our city (which is a city full of beautiful hardwood trees). As many of you know I'm a sucker when it comes to wood, in that I can rarely pass any up.. it all seems to want to come home with me. Well today I might have went a little overboard and I might have blown the budget for the month. You guys will have to help me out and buy some more Dogs or it's nothing but ramen around here for a while lol. Also I'm running out of places to store this stuff. Also, I'm running out of time to saw, re-saw and organize wood. Maybe I should get an intern.. now I've got a few THOUSAND pounds of wood to deal with. Again. ;-)

Black Walnut, Sycamore, Black Oak, Chinese Pistache, Persimmon, Almond, Olive, English Walnut (and more I'm sure). The Underdog guarding the stash as usual.

Time for lunch!

 

[underdog]

Heya DcTokeMan that's always the 'million dollar question' it seems and is really hard to make any kind of real prediction but in the real world I'd like to see them go 2 years before needing a 'vet visit'.

I think the history of these resistors being used as heating elements in Log vapes shows that many original Zaps, PDs, etc went 2+ years.. that being said we're driving them quite a bit harder and hotter in UDs than they did so there's more wear 'n tear on them in that regard. To date our biggest cause of short term failure has been in power plugs and power supplies. Wood degradation and resistor failure typically being long term failure causes.

I know this isn't a subject that businesses don't typically like to talk about but it's something I think a lot about and do like to talk about with you Dogs. The more feedback we get the more we can work on revising and improving the product and it also helps give you guys, the customer, a better idea of what to expect from your Pups.

As always if and when an UD does get sick I always want to know about for the above reasons but also so I can get it patched up (or replaced if need be) and get you back on that foggy, vapory road.

Alright back to the shop for me, trying to finish a bunch of welding before the day is totally over. Many Dogs in testing right now for the pending refresh and I'm already working on the cores for the next one lol.

 

[underdog]

Sorry for the back to back posts Mods I'm past the edit window so feel free to merge them or whatever if you like.

Alright dudes (and dudettes) it's been another stupid-long day but here are those first WonGs as promised. I'll be sending a couple of these out for testing and review (ahem, Stu) and working on dialing in the shop procedures for them but expect to be making them and stocking them on the website in about a week. Once I send out a tester or two I'll probably sell these ProtoWonGs off to any of you who want to be early adopters, then like I said normal production in a week or so.

Alright, a picture and then I'm done for the day.

WonGs!

 

[underdog]

Some rules of thumb for feeding your Dogs:

11.00v - 12.50v = normal operation
12.50v - 13.00v = hot operation
13.00v - 13.75v = very hot operation
13.75v - 14.50v = boosting (less than 5 minutes)
14.50v+ = rapidly damaging to piece, risk of fire (this is like driving your car in 1st gear on the highway)