Best of the Firefly Vaporizer thread

[rsqemt911]

OK, you guys, I tell ya...I don't know what I'd do without you guys....u rock so hard

So, I took one of these from my Extreme Q:

http://www.vapeworld.com/extreme-vaporizer-screen-pack

It sits perfectly in the bowl. Then I put one of the included FF screens on top...

Put the lid on and go to town!! You can pull hard as you want...Rich milky clouds...NO, absolutely NO waste...you can prefill the screen bowls for "quick" on the go swapping! (like my two extra FF batteries! )

the bowl fits a LOVELY .1...yes, but you can keep stuffing hard and get in a .2

**UPDATE** if you pack a .2, you dont need the top screen ...and i think its tastier w/o the screen...

I've tested two strains

burns evenly...yes you dont have to STIR or SHAKE

YOU GUYS DID IT...SHOUT OUT TO YOU ALL....

Oh, and now Im back to fine grind

Oh, and I havent noticed ANY change in the heating with the extra metal in there...

I have no reason to try any other way from this point on......PERFECTED

I just did this trick and it worked perfectly. I took it a step further and removed the inner screen so the elbow screen drops in and semi contacts the heater much like the PN and PNP.
On that note, the screen cups for the vaporblunt 2 are the same diameter as the extreme ones but slightly deeper. I found this out when i tried using one in my vaporblunt and the stir rod was scraping the bottom. Might make for a tighter seal with the top of lid and help with debris containment.

[URL='http://fuckcombustion.com/threads/best-of-the-firefly-vaporizer-thread.16628/'] [/URL]

 

[bumdiggy84]

We're going to need to see some pics of this Arizer basket business...

Can't you just use the tops that come with the Arizer baskets instead of the included FF screens?

You could but those screens are slightly bigger in diameter, so you would have to cut them...I find a top screen is only required if you use .1 of fine grind.... .1 of med grind, or stuffing .2 fine gring, you can start off w/o top screen, but as you get closer to the end, then top screen is recommended...

or just put top screen on all the time and enjoy, its not harming anything to start with it on

bowl to the left is .2 fine grind, bowl on right is .1 med grind

[URL='http://fuckcombustion.com/threads/best-of-the-firefly-vaporizer-thread.16628/'] [/URL]

 

[mitchgo61]

your dud, wasnt b/c of your screen....have fun my sun!

I guess I wouldn't call it a "dud" because it was more of a super-powered overheating dynamo. The opposite of a dud, but just as sub-optimal. As for whether the screen caused it, it's still a mystery. Volteric duplicating the screen->combust thing twice makes me wonder. Anyway...

So I swallowed my fear and gave the basket method a shot, both with and without a top screen. (To be blunt: don't bother without using a top screen...because the best reason to try this is to mitigate debris mess, and you'll get plenty of that if you leave the basket uncovered.) It worked quite well, and, phew, no combustion. Not even running particularly hot...just a bit more than usual. In fact it did a more even cook. I used a finer grind than i would normally put in the FF...and filled it to the top and gave it a moderate tamp-down. Then laid a screen on it, one of the FF screens...then put the lid on. The basket/screen combo pretty much touches the inside of the window ring where the vapor paths start. (A couple times it all stuck to the lid when I popped it off. Pretty funny. Not sure if the magnets were the culprit.)

Interesting method...for me, though, the cons are more significant than the pros...

PROS:

• Little or no mess, but you still get a resin on the window that'll need iso.
• Keeps debris out of the screen/bowl lower edge, if that worries you.
• Allows you to use a finer grind.
• Cooks more evenly.
• Can get bigger hits more reliably thanks to the grind, if that's important to you.
• Can make traveling with the FF a lot cleaner and faster.

CONS:

• Adds significant restriction to the draw, thanks to pulling air through the Arizer basket (which sides are touching the sides of the bowl, giving you only the bottom of the basket for airflow...though this may be why the material cooks so evenly.)
• Seriously degraded taste, to me. Like, seriously. Material I was using has a signature taste that is HEAVEN in the FF or other vapes, but was all but a ghost with the basket. It added a metallic taste, which surprised me. (Never notice it on the VTE.)
• You can't see the glow, for the most part. This is 50/50 aesthetic and utility...it helps to see when the glow kicks in. Not easy with the basket/screen combo.
• Though it seemed to run hotter, I still couldn't extract the last good hit from the session. But it did extract one good hit more than usual for the FF. (So a PUSH for that one!)

For me, the taste is a deal-breaker. I would love the FF to be less messy, and I still think there's a top-screen-ish solution that will work for me someday, and I love the idea of the bowl staying clean...but the charm of the FF is that smooth, natural taste, obviously achieved through fewer encumbrances in the vapor path. Clean is great, but my FF flavor is what it's all about. The trade-off just isn't worth it to me.

Cool idea though, and YMMV and all that. Some folks may not have the same taste experience I did.

[URL='http://fuckcombustion.com/threads/best-of-the-firefly-vaporizer-thread.16628/'] [/URL]

 

[swordfish007gold]

For those still struggling to find their sweet spot on the FF: I have found holding the button for 3-4 seconds..then beginning your draw while continuing to hold for a total of 8-9 secs and drawing after the button is released (meanwhile holding the button and blocking the air vents on around the exterior of the heating element while pressing down on the top cover to minimize air escaping or wasting your breath) ..then stirring.. then resuming same pattern each time leads to nearly flawless reaults and no wasted or lost vapor. Not trying to rush or risk potential combustion seems like it generates solid and unharmful results..and you get longevity..seems like an easy win/win .. I understand modifying for stronger draws and less mess but most of you have other vapes to extract the 'last good hit' .. that said.. button mashing (2 times in 1 hit with time delays) is effective by constraining airflow from the exterior air passages on your FF and faster draws .. but you must be aware of the heated device within your FF and how the designers made it to reach higher temps but that doesn't mean you can use the same technique.

I hope this helps those that may still be frustrated..even though similar techniques have been stated previously in bits and pieces..

good luck!

 

[mitchgo61]

Can you elaborate on what the FF folks told you about "cold units"?

So here's the thing: I have used the FF for the last few days, at least 10 sessions total. During all of my experimentation with draw technique, heat time, bowl fill, grind/no grind, etc... NOT ONCE have I felt there was significant vapor production while the button was pressed. The only time I have felt strong vapor production is after the button is released. And it seems that I can only get there by drawing quite hard for a period of time before releasing the button.

Question for other owners: Do you feel vapor production while you're pressing the button? If so, how soon after you press the button do you feel it?

It does not sound like your unit is working properly. On a freshly-loaded bowl, I hold down the button for a four count and then draw for like ten seconds, holding the button down for like 5 of those 10 seconds. The first hit is medium-sized. The second time I do this, I get a monster hit. I get huge hits like this no matter the grind or the material or its dryness. I even get uneven, charred bits if I hold the button down too long.

Either A. you aren't getting a good seal with the lid and air is getting into the path, causing you to not produce vapor (try squeezing the lid/body during a hit to see if this helps) or B. your unit just isn't generating enough heat.

There is a learning curve, and it takes a few weeks to really hit an intuitive stride with the FF, but man, you should be seeing decent if not excellent vapor production right away, given how long you're hitting the heat button.

Yes, I feel vapor production while holding down the button, usually around the ten second mark (five or six of which are during the draw, the first few seconds are pre-draw). I agree you will feel vapor *after* releasing the button, due to the heat still in the chamber being carbed out at the end of the hit. But again, if I did what you describe with my FF I would have monster clouds coming out of my face.

(I wasn't told much about "cold units", just that they had some units they felt "ran cold" and some that "ran hot". Sounds like you have a cold one, maybe too cold to work right at all.)

I would call them and have them send you a replacement. Tell them it simply isn't producing vapor, no matter what you do. It just doesn't sound like it's working right, and it doesn't sound like you are doing anything wrong.

 

[fogbank]

Happy to talk Firefly all day long! The FF *does* require a faster draw than normal for a small portable vape...

Good luck and let us know what happens. I have a feeling once you get a normal-functioning unit you will be surprised at how much you get out of it.

Well I forced myself to go into "semi-survival" mode with the FF, meaning that whenever I have a choice I must always choose the FF and make it work for me.

I can't tell you how on-target you are with your "faster draw than normal for a small portable vape" comment. I have never used anything but small portable vapes.

As I forced myself to use the FF and work on my technique, I started pondering the difference between "does not work as advertised" and "does not meet my expectations". I am now firmly convinced that, in my case, the situation was the latter. Really the word "match" should be used instead of "meet".

I read every page of this thread before purchasing. My "expectations" were that I would get instant vapor, possibly up to the point of combustion, with little or no "warm up" period. I expected Pax or PnP type hits that started right away. I expected to finish a session in only a few minutes. I was also convinced that the herb should remain in the bowl and not fly around or get stuck to the window. It is this last "expectation" that was the biggest obstacle to my success. My technique had been based in part on that misconception, so I was still drawing way too slowly.

So now I am filling the bowl with ground material (whole nugs not as productive for me), maybe overfilling a little, letting it glow for 4-5 seconds, and then DRAWING HARD to get vapor production started. I pay no mind to the material flying around or sticking to the window. I think of the bowl and window as a "chamber" where the hot air can swirl around the material. On my last session I blew a big cloud on my FIRST hit, and each subsequent hit was even larger.

I now feel like I am sprinting toward the finish line in the race to get the FF to work as I hoped it would. I am getting dense vapor much more consistently, and with stirring I can get pretty evenly browned ABV with decent extraction. And of course the effects I'm getting are very satisfying.

I feel like I came to my initial conclusion too quickly, even though at the time it seemed like I had exhausted every option. Thanks to you and others in this thread for all of the feedback! I now feel like my FF works as advertised, and that I am in for a rewarding experience as I further refine my technique.

And for others having problems getting vapor from the Firefly...try drawing HARDER and FASTER than you are used to...

 

[Volteric]

Ok so here's a close up of Arizer basket screen after finishing the bowl. Notice the portal is nice and clean, the colors are much more even for me...

 

[mitchgo61]

The screws could be too tight. It's counterintuitive, but think about it a bit and it will make sense. I would back the screws out a bit, then position the seal exactly where it needs to be, then retighten until you have resistance and then just a little bit more. For an even better chance at success, I would take the porthole assembly apart and clean everything thoroughly before retightening.

A. Send it back. But B. Yes, don't over tighten the screws. It makes the seal pop out.

Haven't had issues with mine since I re-seated it, but I'm also using a swab with iso to clean the port. Cloth or paper towel rubbed on the window can cause the seal to pop.

the next step is to order some arizer domes which im not a 100% sold on yet but we will see. ohh and of course an extra batt

I hated them in the FF. They fixed a problem I don't have (keeping the glass bowl clean) and ruined the taste, completely subverting the design elegance of the FF. YMMV and all that, but occasionally vape designers are smarter than us eager modders are.

Are you using enough alcohol into seep in the gasket area? I only dampen a q-tip and then blot out any extra on a cloth — no chance any alcohol will harm my gaskets this way. Curious why alcohol seems to screw your unit's gaskets up so frequently?

And the gasket is on the outside....so using iso on the inside, unless you are flooding the glass with it, shouldn't hit the gasket. FF have told us explicitly not to use iso on the outside of the FF.

 

[fogbank]

So, my question. What is happening when we LET GO? It all starts there, for me. Is it because I run cold? What is it doing?

It still makes no sense to me that the bulk of the vapor is not being produced at the peak of heat (right before releasing) but rather on the cooling down side.

This has always been my experience as well. I feel a little of the vapor when the button is depressed, but it is faint. As soon as I release the button I start feeling the (satisfying) vapor, and it continues for quite some time. It may just be timing etc..., but it sure feels like the real vapor starts when the button is released.

I bought the FireFly to replace my Thermovape T1, and ultimately it has done that.

The FF and the T1 are remarkably similar in function. Neither have user adjustable heat settings, and both rely heavily on convection to create vapor. With both vapes the concept is "the user must move the hot air through the medium to produce vapor". The FF and the T1 require very similar technique (something I was not expecting from the FF). Both require a bit of stirring to get evenly browned ABV. It seems like the T1 has a little more conduction heating than the FF.

The biggest difference I am finding is with extraction. I end up getting a little frustrated with the T1 because it seems to stop producing vapor after 3-4 hits from a bowl. Using the same amount of material I can get at least 5-6 good hits from the FireFly (more with frequent stirring).

A couple of other observations:

• I tried a 3/4" screen on top of my FF bowl. Like others, I got the same amount of vapor, but felt that the taste suffered unnecessarily. Some charred spots were also noted.
• If I use a very fine grind and pull hard, allowing the bits of material to "swirl around" in the bowl/window chamber, I can get VERY even, perfectly browned ABV. It's just kind of a drag to clean up.

[URL='http://fuckcombustion.com/threads/best-of-the-firefly-vaporizer-thread.16628/'] [/URL]

 

[mitchgo61]

How does one know if he has a cool,hot, or just right unit?

My unit is yet to cause any combustion ..i get very little clouds on my exhale
but ..the effects are very good ..haven't been that high in a long long time

..what should I make of this? just right unit? cool?

I think this whole "hot/cool" unit thing has been blown out of proportion, and it's at least partly my fault, so let me see if I can put this in perspective....

My first unit wasn't just "hot", it was batshit crazy hot and combusted wildly and randomly, maybe one button push out of 6. You could call it "hot", but it was clearly a faulty heat sensor that was causing the temp to soar way higher and faster than designed. When I had a lengthy email chat with FF folks, in passing, they mentioned they had a few units they thought ran a little "cool" (they were considering sending me one, just to play with, because they wanted some feedback on how these units performed from someone they suspected could make a unit run hotter than normal. But they never followed up on this, and neither did I.)

They have shipped thousands of units, and only a couple handfuls have had temp issues. I'm not even 100% sure there are any "cool" units floating around out there, except that there have been a user or two who seem to be unable to get the FF to heat up sufficiently. Bottom line: it is very unlikely that any buyer truly has a unit that is running too hot or too cold, and certainly you should give yourself at least a couple weeks of learning-curve use before overthinking whether your unit runs hot or cold. Just because you haven't pulled massive clouds, or big visible rips, right away, doesn't mean your unit is cold. Just because you have some charred bits or occasional combustion when holding down the button a good long time doesn't mean your unit is hot. Until you have mastered the right combo of draw, heat button technique, grind, and bowl pack, you are still going to have variable results.

I can't speak for whatever "cool" units exist, but trust me, if you have a unit that really runs "hot", you will freaking know it. So will anyone within thirty feet of you who can smell smoke.

[URL='http://fuckcombustion.com/threads/best-of-the-firefly-vaporizer-thread.16628/'] [/URL]

 

[Vitolo]

yes .. vape condensation is oil.. oil against glass will appear blueish.

EDIT:
Charge complete, and unit works as expected.
I got good thick, rich vapor after 3 hits, and got a few hits of such vapor, before the load was tanned and done.
I did not use any type of basket or extra screen.. I am not sure yet of the point of that, but I will now re-read this thread and see you guys rationale.
I got in total 8 hits before my herb was spent, and I loved the flavor.
I said I would re-read this entire thread to catch up on comments, but I only got to do 2 loads....
...and on my 2nd load, toward the end I found the battery waning during each hit.. (starting out with a glow which would get dull as I pulled air.
Aside from a short battery life, The hits were good, when used exactly as described (in multiple languages) in the "user guide".
I especially loved how very fast VapeWorld was able to have this unit sitting in my mailbox..
Thanks @VapeWorld

 

[genericandorwittyusername]

Hey all, sorry this took a bit longer than expected, but I haven't seen any other teardown pictures, so here they are. Sorry about the cell phone pictures, my real camera is out of commission at the moment.

Five T6 screws remove the top plate.

Closer view of the inside.

Glass bowl lifts right out, as does the metal plate at the bottom of the bowl. The whole bowl assembly is held together by pressure from the top plate. None of these gaskets are attached, so should be easy to replace if need be, though I don't see why you would need to. The gasket around the screen keeps material out of the inside of the device. I had a little bit of material built up there under the bottom edge of the bowl that had been stopped by the gasket, but that doesn't seem to influence functionality. Doesn't get hot enough there to worry about combustion.

Next that white plate comes out, exposing the heating coil. All the white bits here feel like ceramic, or could just be a different type of (seriously) high-temperature glass.

Since I'm not willing to bend any of the wiring for the heating coil, three T5 screws holding in the circuit board need to be removed next, then it lifts right out.

Close up of the top of the board. Judging by the version number (2.93) on the board, they went though a hell of a lot of revisions to get this right.

And the bottom of the board. You can see the battery connection in the middle there, power switch is at the bottom left, and heating button is on the top.

I can't even imagine what type of metal the heating coil is made of to be able to withstand 50 watts running through it, rapid heat cycling, and such high temperatures in ambient air. Like I said before, light bulbs flame out in seconds without an inert gas protecting them.

 

[ElPic]

Got my firefly for a week now, and it's the best portable vape I ever used.
On my unit, I modified the screen, as I said on an older post, with a Wispr screen that you can found on Vapeworld.
I think the original one is too small and some material can get stuck in the air path under the bowl and it's kind of hard to clean.
I drill some hole on the side of the wispr screen to help the air flow as you can see on my picture, but it work great without this modification. With this mod my screen is above the airpath and this one stay clean. I can now put finely grind herb in my FF with no mess!!!

[URL='http://fuckcombustion.com/threads/best-of-the-firefly-vaporizer-thread.16628/'] [/URL]

 

[Vitolo]

I just got 4 bowls (for science)
I like the FF
I dont think of it as an on the go portable, really...(not for long term on the move vaping)
I like it for a 1st hit of the day vape.
Fast and true.
While all my other vapes are turned on or are getting the heat turned up, the FF is good.
My SSV is on 24/7 .
from 6 a.m. until midnight it is at 1 p.m. on the dial.
for those 6 sleep hours, it is at a low setting that requires about 60- 90 seconds to get to useable heat.
(that is fast)
Herbalizer also is ready to go in 10 seconds (that is dead fast)
trust me---> I would not get rid of either of those 2 tools... EVER.. but.....
The heavy solid weight of that FF, is easy to hold onto in early morn.
and as my SuperStar vapes are getting ready during those "10 second... and 60 second" brief intervals...
I was able to do two good hits off of the FF.

When my FF load is spent it dumps easily.
I brush out the bowl... and do same to window's inside.
I take a short piece of SSV tubing into my lips, and I suck out the bowl, and window backing.. not a crumb left in sight.
I use soft cotton (old T-shirt section) and wipe off inside of lid and the flat surface of the body, and done.
Satisfied and medicated.. the first few seconds of the day were made easier by the Firefly. by now .. both of my "Starting Lineup" solid state vapes are cooking for the morning's activities.

[URL='http://fuckcombustion.com/threads/best-of-the-firefly-vaporizer-thread.16628/'] [/URL]

 

[Vitolo]

On the top..from bowl itself to mouthpiece, I see no place for air to get through in picture of break down, or in person.
When I remove the top... airpath is in front of me... clear as can be.
with top off... if I inhale (suck hard) through mouthpiece... and cover hole at same time, there is absolute vacuum.
Now in the case of the wires to the coil, I am comfortable with the level of isolation that I see, and fee comfortable that the preheated air that enters in fact cool off any connection. it is "post-heat circuitry".. circuitry and wires in the actual vapor path that we avoid.

[URL='http://fuckcombustion.com/threads/best-of-the-firefly-vaporizer-thread.16628/'] [/URL]

 

[genericandorwittyusername]

Because there is no temp sensor (that I can see), I guess it's what you call an open loop control system -- not like a thermostat. It can only estimate the temp based on how much current it's pulling. It stands to reason that since the device's behavior is set in advance entirely by the firmware, without "knowing" how hot the load is, there will be ways to force it into various states and temps. It would help if the company put up some diagrams with temp readings.

Yes the substances dry out. Yes that makes the job easier. The various parts around the heating coil heat up as you use it, and it's likely that it makes the air that much hotter as it passes through. It adds up. I don't think it matters if that's called pure convection or not.

There must be a temp sensor somewhere in the device presuming the instruction manual isn't mistaken (no idea where, but there were a couple chips that I couldn't read, and this isn't my area of expertise). It says that the indicator light will glow amber if the device overheats.

Also I have to presume that the ceramic/glass around the heating coil retains some heat. I did notice when I stress tested mine that the coil was glowing less brightly on activation as the device got hotter. That indicates to me that there is a sensor somewhere (though I suppose it could be an estimate based on current drawn over time as fernand mentioned above, perhaps that's why it needs so much processing power?), and that the retained heat is helping at least a little bit.

Another thing I've noticed is that even right after a few hits, I can empty the bowl (ten seconds or so to brush all the material out) and the screen at the bottom is cool to the touch, so definitely not much conduction happening. Most of the retained heat must be below the bowl around the heating coil, and in the aluminium body of the device.

Perhaps if someone else has done a stress test they can chime in with their experience. Takes about ten minutes to drain the battery running it almost continuously, and it gets very very hot. I put mine on a cold surface half way through to cool it down because it was becoming uncomfortable to hold. Didn't actually see the amber light though, so I can't comment on whether or not that line from the manual is accurate.

[URL='http://fuckcombustion.com/threads/best-of-the-firefly-vaporizer-thread.16628/'] [/URL]

 

[ElPic]

If it can help some you, Shelby from Firefly live chat gave me that technique on how to properly use the FF!!

>When you prepare your material, instead of grinding it, we recommend to hand tear your material and make it leafy as possible. We have also found that a chapstick cap is a good measurement of dry material to load into the chamber. You can use the opposite side of the chapstick to lightly tamp down on your material in the chamber. Make sure it is not overflowing, and then seal the lid tightly.

Regarding using the Firefly, please ensure the battery is fully charged so the unit does not die down during usage. Once the unit is charged and ready to go, I recommend preheating the unit and material. This preheating is only necessary at the beginning of your sessions to ensure the material is warmed up properly.

Simply hold down the heating button for about 8 – 10 seconds. Around the 8-10 second mark begin to draw. Make sure when you go to draw from the unit you continue to hold the heating button down. When drawing from the Firefly you will want to take a nice long, slow and steady draw.

I have personally found the air flow a little easier if let the heating button go for only a second to allow some cool air to pass through, than immediately press the button again so the material continues to create vapor. This will use up more of your battery, however will produce a great stream of vapor that has superior taste.

Keep in mind as the heating button is pressed, the unit is gradually heating up to a temperature of 400 degrees Fahrenheit. It took me a couple of days to key in on my preferred temperature and method, but I have loved my Firefly ever since. I hope you will have a great experience as I did after using these tips.<
>paste from email receive by info@firefly.com<

 

[mitchgo61]

Have you taken apart the top plate at all? The gasket on mine is slipping out and i was wondering if theres an easy way to re-seat it.

A. Torx 5 microscrew bit...loosen the three port screws slowly, slightly. Half turns at most. Use a toothpick to push the gasket carefully into its groove. Hold the lid up to a light...if the window looks perfectly round, the gasket is back in place. Any areas where you see a line, push that bit of the gasket into the groove. Carefully re tighten the screws slowly and not too much...too hard will make the gasket pop again.

Or....

B. Call FF and they will send you an RMA to return the lid and get a replacement.

Doesn't hurt to try a fix yourself...if you can't fix it, you can get a replacement from FF.

 

[2 Paces]

I'm hoping my replacement runs a bit hotter for me...

Last week I sent mine back. Mine wasn't as cold as yours (I could get light vapor, pretty sure yours couldn't get even that), but I never felt I was getting the results that everyone else was raving about.

After three weeks of not knowing for sure if mine was cool or if I was just expecting too much, I sent it back to them.

@WildChild all I can say is I hope you have the same experience I did. My replacement is a totally different beast. Unlike my first one where I had to preheat for 15 seconds or more to get any vapor at all, this new one needs only a couple of seconds to preheat and throws much denser vapor. My last one I had to hit it for the entire 30-45 seconds until auto shutoff every time to get hits. This new one I worry about combusting if I hold the button down for more than 10-15 seconds or so. It's nice to feel like this thing has too much power, unlike my other one that felt like it had too little. I no longer feel like I have to do everything perfectly just to get light hits.

So now I'm re-learning the FF from scratch after owning one for a month

But it's a much quicker learning curve with adequate power. I'm no longer just trying to get vapor from it, now I'm trying to get the best vapor from it.

So glad I finally decided to swap mine up. The verdict is in: it was not producing as much heat as it should have been.

 

[2 Paces]

From reading here I get the impression that the FF has a lot of problems. Everyone is complaining, fixing and returning...

Keep in mind that there have been a small number of returns compared to the amount of sales they have had overall. Sometimes it may look like 'everyone is complaining' when it really isn't the case. It's just that most people get vocal if their vape is malfunctioning, but keep more quiet if it works great. I don't consider it 'complaining' so much as searching for information about problems. For the amount of fans in this thread, I feel the number of problems is rather low.

As one of the people who had a return, I would hate to think you might decide against the Firefly because of the posts I made in this thread. I can tell you the following:

My RMA number was very low. They have not had many returns.

The process was so painless it was not an issue to me. I mailed them my FF on Monday, had a shiny new one in hand Friday.

Even though my Firefly was not performing optimally when I got it, I still loved it. I hesitated to send it back because even at its lower heat I used it a lot.

I missed having my FF immensely for the 4 days I was without it, and when I got the new one I found out that the FF is even better than what I originally had. I love the Firefly even more now.


Simply put, this is a great vape. Every person's criteria for what they want in a vape is different, but I highly recommend the Firefly if you think it will fit your needs. I would not be scared off by possible problems, and I'm someone who had one of those problems...

 

[fernand]

No external temp sensor doesn't mean no sensing. The processor is clearly tracking and regulating the current. And what sensors exactly do you see on other units?

I don't think the battery is crappy at all. Any battery has finite capacity. If you're heating air with 50 watts, it will need recharging pretty fast. It seems well-sized for the bowl size.

Now as to whether it's worth $270, the market decides. I paid $260 grand total for mine with an extra battery, and I don't see anything a lot better and cheaper. No question all these devices are overpriced relative to say a cell-phone. But the FireFly's solid aluminum body and screwed together parts are not mass-market stuff, the device is more like a hand-assembled crafted object. I find a MFLB at $120 much more overpriced for what it is, and what it's made of.

I don't really care for that last fractions off the buds, I like the more cerebral first fractions. I suppose if I wanted black ABV this would not be my vape.

It's not the ultimate, nothing is. I would love if it hit that coil 3 times harder for a couple seconds then backed off. But thermal realities may prohibit that. The next version? For now this is delicious.

I wonder if the Ploom 2 runs hot enough for our needs! That one is $40! I saw some people gave up when they saw the manufacturer's site saying it was for their cartridges only. But has anyone tried, either by filling little aluminum "carts" or otherwise?

BTW, we do need pix! So, am I done here, or under or overcooked?

Before I opened and touched up the position of my coil (a half hour and very simple job, just delicately changing the way the coil was resting), I was getting a lighter ABV. It made a difference also in how easily we get to that blessed plateau where the thermal undercarriage and bowl are humming warm. With a little screen "hat" the ABV is darkest in the center, needs stirring. It's more even if it flies around, but with small loads like this it's more practical to restrain it a little.

 

[Vapor X]

Its my one week anniversary vaping with the FF, and it has been a very interesting experience. I still have combustion expectations for my vaping experience, and the FF HAS DELIVERD. Those who question if the FF can get to those high temps trust me the FF gets real hot. I hate hitting my FF cold, I have found myself using the button like a lighter. I push it and hold it as long as I need to heat the bowl to get enough vapor to fill the room full of clouds. There is no one way to hit the FF, it all depends on what the user wants. I have read about the button issues with the FF and I'm lucky not to have experienced any of those issues. Its not unusual for me to prime the FF on a cold start, so I'm using my button alot. The FF is built way tougher than it looks. Since its built like a cell phone it would be nice to have a leather case for it. Which brings another point, the FF is the kind of vaporizor that should only be used by one person, and not shared. Its made like a cell phone for a reason, its a very personal device. You don't see people sharing their smart phones, and that's how personal my FF is to me. I love my FF and she is only for me! Everything is not meant to be shared

 

[fogbank]

I find that a coarser grind adversely impacts extraction. I get fewer hits and less even browning. Medium to fine grind for me.

I get thorough extraction without "working too hard" because I draw slow and steady.

My battery cover slips off too easily...when I'm replacing the top cover, handling the unit itself, etc...

I have started shortening the "button press" phase of my draw and extending the "post button release" portion of my draw, and so far I have gotten the same great results. I feel that there is a point at which additional power to the coil no longer benefits the process.

Comparing my technique to Vitolo's video, I would say I invert his ratio of pressing/releasing.

I've said it before...my unit seems to produce the bulk of the vapor after I release the button. I let it go and just keep drawing and drawing. I feel it as it gets hotter and denser, plateaus, then tapers off.

By then my lungs are bursting and my eyes are bulging...

Edit: I've never had any "snacks" with the FF.

 

[EveryDayAmnesiac]

I only have to hold my power button 5 seconds before I start my toke.

The color of my FF ABV is also quite deceptive. It looks lighter than I think I'd want, but when using the ABV in my Ascent, I find that there's actually very little left, unless you're looking for the hardcore body stuff. And even in that respect, what I get out of the ABV is not very satisfying in any way other than for falling asleep. I get pretty much everything I want from the herb out of the FF, despite the ABV's shade of color.

And I love the "up" sort of feeling that it gives. Even when using my Ascent at 370, I tend to get more of a "sleepy" feeling than I'd like during the day.

Also, some strains that work great in other vapes don't work well at all in the FF.

Anyway, still adoring my sexy beast, even though I think it may be one of the cooler-running units. I prefer it that way.

Just thought I'd check in.

 

[WildChild]

It's a Torx 5 for the port assembly, not 4...at least mine is. Of course, if you buy a set, you'll be covered in any eventuality.

Agreed. It's a Torx 5 for the port assembly and a 6 for the main body.

Please do not over-tighten the port assembly screws when you put it back together or it can deform/sqeeze the rubber seal and make it not sit properly.

Good luck.