Arizer Air MAX

pmthokku

Well-Known Member
Okay, a few first thoughts ONLY.
1. It's not that different than Solo2 and Air2 / kind of a hybrid. The oven is a hair deeper. I held all 3 units together and Solo and Air Max pretty much the same depth. Same exact oven from the what you can see on the outside.
2. Love the new buttons / screen. Easier, more practical, but no super big deal - just very nice. It's a hair longer, thicker, and definitely heavier. I like the way it looks and feels.
3. Battery life no better than Solo2, maybe not quite as good... jury still out here.
4. Heats up a drop slower than Solo2, which is rapid, not complaining. Charges in a couple of hours.
5. Draw resistance is pretty much the exact same, same four scalloped vents in the oven floor. Again, no definite decision here, still playing with loading stems just right, but I don't think there's much difference between Air or Solo. I've been playing with a tighter pack, using the resistance to generate more vapor.

PS: didn't forget you Mighty comparison guys, but right now I'm feeling much love for the Arizer stem, and a little tired of the S&B cooling unit. I think the draw resistance very affected by herb prep, pack, cleanliness, and can almost override anything else. It's not that different than Solo vs Mighty.

More to follow, today was my first real day...
Thank you so much for all the info. Does the battery make a difference? I dont even know what kind of 26650s are available (like Molicel P26A, VTC6, HG2 etc)
 
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LesPlenty

Well-Known Member
Company Rep
same four scalloped vents in the oven floor.
I have the OG Air that has no scallops...is the Max or Solo much better with these in regards to draw resistance?
Does the battery make a difference
5000mAh seems the highest available, anyone charge the Max battery separately in a decent charger that gives you info on Ah like a Nitecore SC4 or similar?
 

OldPotHead

I vape to get even
I've got a question for you guys...
Arizer out of stock on 26650's. I went to IMR and found this:

Since Arizer does not even post a pic of the cell, does anyone know if this cell will do it?

EDIT: I can kill a Solo2 in half a day, same with this vape. I'd need two batteries to get through the day, for now I will go back and forth between Solo 2 / Airmax. Both seem to charge pretty quickly. As of now, everything else I own is retired, relaxing back into Arizer stem world. Lately, I've been using inverted dome screen, finely ground, dried, tamped loads. I also store in CV with a boveda pack. I find I get bigger hits this way, albeit a bit more conduction.

I do love this vape, like having an Air with the power of a Solo.
 
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RAG

Member
I've got a question for you guys...
Arizer out of stock on 26650's. I went to IMR and found this:

Since Arizer does not even post a pic of the cell, does anyone know if this cell will do it?

EDIT: I can kill a Solo2 in half a day, same with this vape. I'd need two batteries to get through the day, for now I will go back and forth between Solo 2 / Airmax. Both seem to charge pretty quickly. As of now, everything else I own is retired, relaxing back into Arizer stem world. Lately, I've been using inverted dome screen, finely ground, dried, tamped loads. I also store in CV with a boveda pack. I find I get bigger hits this way, albeit a bit more conduction.

I do love this vape, like having an Air with the power of a Solo.
Be careful with the batteries, do you maybe have and external charger where you can test the mAh and ampere of the original battery before ordering?
 

pmthokku

Well-Known Member
I have the OG Air that has no scallops...is the Max or Solo much better with these in regards to draw resistance?

IMO yes, solo 2 is a bit more free flowing. It is also possible to pack less in it and have some more convection. I do this when I just want to sesh and not rip it.
5000mAh seems the highest available, anyone charge the Max battery separately in a decent charger that gives you info on Ah like a Nitecore SC4 or similar?
 

RAG

Member
Just ordered one Air 2 as the retailers started raising their prices of the unit. Will test it out and if I like we'll probably order another Arizer but a Max if it's worth the 100€/$ extra :)
 
I loved my Solo2 for the short time I had it (was kept at the ex's place for convivence but she did end up buying it off of me for a good price) so I was really excited to see Arizer working on something new.
Can't say I love the design as much but the improvements over the Solo2 sound amazing (USB-C and better buttons LET'S GO) and I've been following this for a bit now.

With all the 420 sales going on the deal from POTV I had to hop on. Decided to buy my first nice piece of glass to go with it although that's coming from china so it'll be a ways off. I'll try to post general thoughts once the airMAX comes in.
 

RAG

Member
IMO yes, solo 2 is a bit more free flowing. It is also possible to pack less in it and have some more convection. I do this when I just want to sesh and not rip it.
Sure that it's more free flowing, but doesn't the vaporpath pass over electronics or was that the first Solo?
 

OldPotHead

I vape to get even
I've been using the Air Max daily since I got it. It's a great little vape that pretty much combines Air and Solo into exactly what you'd expect. Whatever you know about Solo or Air, applies here - no differences. What you're getting different is:
1. Longer battery life than Air and Air 2, but not quite Solo 2. [80%]
2. Faster heat up time than Air and Air 2, but not quite as fast as Solo 2 [80%]
3. Swappable battery [ordered a couple with a charger - should be a game changer]
4. Super cool Air form, only slightly bigger, and a bit heavier, which I like.
5. Overall performance is right in the Solo 2 category, I didn't really expect more
6. I'm using the stock stem, and loving it, which winds up always happening to me

Beyond that there isn't much more to say. At this point, I can't see myself buying another Solo, but I'd go for another Air Max. Until my spare batts arrive, as a pretty heavy user, I need to split the day with my old reliable solo.
 

cliffhanger1

Well-Known Member
Thanks for the review! Can't wait to get mine in soon. Which battery and charger did you end up going with?
The same here - i wait and wait but it comes not to europe for now.
The date from the shop shows later and later.. :(
I cant understand it, because it is already released. ANd shipping tooks in the 2000 years not more than 1 week if you want.
Yesterday i looked at the Arizer Homepage, but they do not ship to EU. :(
What a fuck :rofl:
:ninja:
 

ondemander

Active Member
I got and think it's on par with the Solo 2 except the new heater seems to retain heat much better in between hits. With the Solo 2 it needs more time to recover it seems in between hits. The Air Max seems to produce slightly more vapor too, like 20% maybe, probably due to more conduction. I like it a lot and will sell my Solo 2 shortly. That said, it's not a huge upgrade by any means, so I'm not sure if it's worth it for people who already own a Solo 2 unless you want swappable batteries or use it through water a lot, which it excels at. I would say if portability with the glass stems isn't a major issue then the Air Max is better deal than the Mighty and Mighty+.
 

OldPotHead

I vape to get even
Great points... @ondemander
About the more vapor. I think you're correct. I'd originally written that off to packing just right, but yes, more conduction probably means a bit more vapor, and last night, with my new batteries [IMR batts only has Hom Grown in 26650, got 2, & I picked up a tenergy 2-cell charger from Amazon] I was watching the oven recover from about 170, and it was rapid to 400. I'm getting great results with inverted dome screen, fine ground, tight pack, being sure to dry weed under a lamp first. I like the entire experience much more than Mighty, especially with the super awesome Air Max form, and now swappable batteries.
 

Maryjanie

Well-Known Member
So, I'm thinking of snagging the Solo 2 today bc of the price difference. I'm a light - average hitter anymore and use mostly at home. I have devices for away from home. The only other Arizer I have is the Argo. I use to own the og air bit sold it. I have lots of others but I just love and prefer glass stems, especially the Arizer set up. I have davincis, dynas, firefly2, healthy rips, etc. But I have MISSED my og air and think about it ALOT. I'm more concerned with the health aspects of a vape than I am batteries and how hard they hit blah blah. I see talk of the Max using more convection. Is it worth the price difference? Any other health related things you know of that trumps one of these 2 vapes over the other? Where are the best sales today on either? Thanks!
 

checkyourlibido

Well-Known Member
So, I'm thinking of snagging the Solo 2 today bc of the price difference. I'm a light - average hitter anymore and use mostly at home. I have devices for away from home. The only other Arizer I have is the Argo. I use to own the og air bit sold it. I have lots of others but I just love and prefer glass stems, especially the Arizer set up. I have davincis, dynas, firefly2, healthy rips, etc. But I have MISSED my og air and think about it ALOT. I'm more concerned with the health aspects of a vape than I am batteries and how hard they hit blah blah. I see talk of the Max using more convection. Is it worth the price difference? Any other health related things you know of that trumps one of these 2 vapes over the other? Where are the best sales today on either? Thanks!
Regarding the price difference, I've wondered the same. I don't think it's worth the price difference. I mean, the TinyMight is a comparable price to the Air Max, I don't think they are in the same league. Solo 2 is still the best bang for your buck.

But if you want comparisons, a separate thread might be better than my ramblings.
 

Oil420FL

Member
I just received my Arizer Air max & tried a heat cycle without any herbs. The oven floor is over 400 at a setting of 350 degree Fahrenheit. The glass bowl at the glass herb “screen” is only 200 even after a dozen “cigar puffs” to encourage convection. This is very much cooler than my Mighty [it's a hybrid, but lots of conduction]. I’ve never owned an Arizer portable before. Is it predominantly convection and so controlled by the breath?

I’m a micro-dosing medical patient and need to keep the herb in the 350-380 degree range. But I confess that I don’t have the patience for a big learning curve. Suggestions on how I can get there with the Arizer MAX?
 

OF

Well-Known Member
The glass bowl at the glass herb “screen” is only 200 even after a dozen “cigar puffs” to encourage convection.

I’m a micro-dosing medical patient and need to keep the herb in the 350-380 degree range. But I confess that I don’t have the patience for a big learning curve. Suggestions on how I can get there with the Arizer MAX?

First off, don't do "“cigar puffs” to encourage convection" since this is a conduction vape, no useful convection going on (as you've discovered). Air drawn in is only very modestly heated passing through the tiny surface area of the vent walls. This is why 'heat soaks' are important, replacement heat is conducted in in those pauses. In convection such pauses (without air motion) cause cooling and less vapor?

So, my advice is to load the stem, select the indicated temperature you want, let it heat half or even a full minute to reach temperature and give it a try. Adjust your temperature setpoint based on results. Making vapor the way it's designed is the only true test that matters. Follow the results you like.

BTW, using pyrometers ('IR thermometers) is not necessarily all that accurate. "Emissivity" is a variable that's a critical factor that is material related that compensates for the fact that some materials 'shine brighter' (or dimmer) than others at the same temperature. Common units are set as a compromise (.90 or so IIRC) which become more and more important as temperatures go up. I would not suggest you pay such measurements much mind. Again, making vapor is the useful metric.

You've made a good choice, trust it? You won't be disappointed.

Regards to all.

OF
 

Oil420FL

Member
First off, don't do "“cigar puffs” to encourage convection" since this is a conduction vape, no useful convection going on (as you've discovered). Air drawn in is only very modestly heated passing through the tiny surface area of the vent walls. This is why 'heat soaks' are important, replacement heat is conducted in in those pauses. In convection such pauses (without air motion) cause cooling and less vapor?

So, my advice is to load the stem, select the indicated temperature you want, let it heat half or even a full minute to reach temperature and give it a try. Adjust your temperature setpoint based on results. Making vapor the way it's designed is the only true test that matters. Follow the results you like.

BTW, using pyrometers ('IR thermometers) is not necessarily all that accurate. "Emissivity" is a variable that's a critical factor that is material related that compensates for the fact that some materials 'shine brighter' (or dimmer) than others at the same temperature. Common units are set as a compromise (.90 or so IIRC) which become more and more important as temperatures go up. I would not suggest you pay such measurements much mind. Again, making vapor is the useful metric.

You've made a good choice, trust it? You won't be disappointed.

Regards to all.

OF
Thanks. I’ll try the heat soak. The reviews that I’d read said it used hybrid heating (conduction and convection), but you’re saying it is mostly conduction. And though I have an IR gun with adjustable emissivity, the temps i mentioned are from a ThermoWorks surface probe.
 
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OF

Well-Known Member
Thanks. I’ll try the heat soak. The reviews that I’d read said it used hybrid heating (conduction and convection), but you’re saying it is mostly conduction. And though I have an IR gun with adjustable emissivity, the temps i mentioned are from a ThermoWorks surface probe.

Yer welcome.

Frankly there ain't no such animal as 'hybrid heating' when it comes down to making vapor. The key is how the additional heat gets into the hot load (say 390F?) to support production of more vapor. For convection to contribute the air entering the load must be substantially hotter than the load so it can give up heat (cool) and still be above 'magic temperature'. This requires a heat source hotter still to heat the incoming air. Real convection vapes are in the neighborhood of 1300F. 1300, 'glowing hot'. Vapes like the GO and the Thermovapes do this. And they require hitting to get the load hot enough to make vapor as opposed to conduction which has vapor instantly available (after heat soaking a bit). Convection vapes tend to increase production as the hit progresses, conduction, OTOH, tends to fall off as the cold air robs heat from the load and vapor production (which takes heat energy) also reduces the temperature as heat conducts back in at a slow rate.

You can't have it 'both ways as I understand Thermodynamics. Since there is no heat source in This vape hotter than the cup, let alone LOTS hotter, there's nothing to heat the air hot enough to contribute heat to vapor production. You reported moderately heated air, right?

Since there's no heat sensor actually in the load to regulate against we can probably make a rule that vapes with 'closed loop' temperature controls you can set to your desired level have to be conduction. That is 'if it has a temperature display, it's conduction'?

I get it we've been convinced that convection is superior, there's a bias. We naturally want our vapes to use the superior technique? And with it, the 'suits' (Marketing types) are motivated to tell us their conduction vape is at least 'hybrid'. Still not possible.

Again my advice is to take it as it comes........which is generally considered to be excellent?

Regards to all.

OF
 

Oil420FL

Member
Yer welcome.

Frankly there ain't no such animal as 'hybrid heating' when it comes down to making vapor. The key is how the additional heat gets into the hot load (say 390F?) to support production of more vapor. For convection to contribute the air entering the load must be substantially hotter than the load so it can give up heat (cool) and still be above 'magic temperature'. This requires a heat source hotter still to heat the incoming air. Real convection vapes are in the neighborhood of 1300F. 1300, 'glowing hot'. Vapes like the GO and the Thermovapes do this. And they require hitting to get the load hot enough to make vapor as opposed to conduction which has vapor instantly available (after heat soaking a bit). Convection vapes tend to increase production as the hit progresses, conduction, OTOH, tends to fall off as the cold air robs heat from the load and vapor production (which takes heat energy) also reduces the temperature as heat conducts back in at a slow rate.

You can't have it 'both ways as I understand Thermodynamics. Since there is no heat source in This vape hotter than the cup, let alone LOTS hotter, there's nothing to heat the air hot enough to contribute heat to vapor production. You reported moderately heated air, right?

Since there's no heat sensor actually in the load to regulate against we can probably make a rule that vapes with 'closed loop' temperature controls you can set to your desired level have to be conduction. That is 'if it has a temperature display, it's conduction'?

I get it we've been convinced that convection is superior, there's a bias. We naturally want our vapes to use the superior technique? And with it, the 'suits' (Marketing types) are motivated to tell us their conduction vape is at least 'hybrid'. Still not possible.

Again my advice is to take it as it comes........which is generally considered to be excellent?

Regards to all.

OF
You're exactly right about getting convinced that convection is superior. And that faster is better. But if you have to heat soak it on top of the official heat up time, then at some point it's just easier to dab. Re your thermodynamics comments: yes and the last vape I tried that claimed to have a temperature sensor in the atomizer actually had 65 degrees of overshoot (at least it was consistently 65 degrees too high :-)
As a medical patient, the issue for me isn't just about vapor quality and how dark is the ABV. At higher temps [around 390 on my Mighty] I cough so much and so long that it's not worth it. And my Doc is telling me about another patient like me who had to quit inhalation entirely.
 
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