Arizer Air II

stickstones

Vapor concierge
@Stu - busted. Actually, that’s when I noticed it was off...went to take a hit and got zilch!

@thx1138 - I’m not opposed. I think a good session graph, and this one still leaves a lot to be desired, can tell someone a ton about a vape.
 

Hippie Dickie

The Herbal Cube
Manufacturer
nice curves!!! clearly convection, since the heater drops and recovers while the temp in the bowl is spiking.

interesting that the Air II drops 40F with a hit before recovering. must be current limited. i don't see that drop with mine.

here's a question for @OF: is there a simple formula for heat transfer from the heater surface to the incoming ambient air (i think @Newton could chime in here, too) - there must be an optimal effective rate of airflow - faster and the heater can't transfer any more thermal energy to the air, and if slower then there could be more vapor extracted at the optimal flow rate. i calculated the surface area of my heater and volume of air passing the heater wall.

two wires at the end with no balls on them. Would this two-wire one qualify as being smaller than the one I'm using now, or is that a different type of probe altogether?

the one with the smaller wire/ball will give faster response. my k-type is .010" wire with no insulation (glass ball) on the junction.
 

OF

Well-Known Member
here's a question for @OF: is there a simple formula for heat transfer from the heater surface to the incoming ambient air (i think @Newton could chime in here, too) - there must be an optimal effective rate of airflow - faster and the heater can't transfer any more thermal energy to the air, and if slower then there could be more vapor extracted at the optimal flow rate. i calculated the surface area of my heater and volume of air passing the heater wall.

Sadly no. And what there is is far from "simple". Such heat transfer is a surface game, not only in the finish but also how turbulent the flow is (mixing is good.....).

All is not lost, however. You have a closed loop system, you should be able to monitor the current over time as you vary the airflow. The more heat you remove and pass on, the more the closed loop will have to make up for it.....you'll use more current/power over time as the transfer to air goes up.

Probably the best convection scheme is the one TV used. The 'thermal core'. A ceramic chamber heated to equilibrium by an exposed heater wrapped around a reflector. It uses 'the kiln effect', IR rattles around inside until everything (heater, reflector, walls, the lot) is basically at the same temperature everywhere when the air is 'let in' with purposeful turbulence at one end and out through a 'homogenizer grid' to insure uniform temperature across the air column. This (using IR at about 1300F) gets around the contact issue, especially when combined with the homogenizer. You've put your finger exactly on what is the elephant in the parlor with assuming Solo/Air is using the cup to heat air for convection. The ports are getting big (more volume for the perimeter, less percentage contacts) and the metal is made thinner? Only a tiny fraction of the air molecules blowing up those four holes can contact that tiny wall while flying trough.......

Lucky for us Solo/Air is conduction scheme. As the above graphs from Sticks show. Especially the 'Christmas one' (Red and Green), very festive. We can see the drop in wall temperature when the cold air comes in and the rise in 'load' temperature as the now heated air from the hit makes up heat lost up the leads. Or makes up more than before the hit at least. The two 'curves' come very close to meeting? Which makes sense to me. The wall temperature dropping tells the tale I think. The (non heated) air did that....... Convection wouldn't do that, right? Since the heat would be added to the inside. More heat is of course conducted through the walls to make up for it, the drop in temperature being an indicator of that. Like when the water pressure in your house drops and you get scalded in the shower just because someone else flushed it. That drop is an indicator of the flow (the more flow, the bigger the drop), the pressure in the water mains in the street is still the same, same as the cup in Solo/Air doesn't drop much at all for the hit, the 'drop' is 'across the glass'. Or the load in the case of the T/C lead at idle. The heat flowing through the load and up the lead causes a temperature drop 'across the load' where that heat flows. The drop is Thermodynamics' "tell" (for the non poker players, a "tell" is a nervous fault (like pulling your ear) when you're bluffing that 'tells' the others you're vulnerable. A 'telltale clue' if you will.

Fun stuff.

OF
 

metaknight

I dab. A lot.
You will enjoy all of the included stems, especially the one with water filtration.

I personally love my GonG stem. You can also get artsy options from websites, but mine is a standard one straight from Arizer's site.

I kind of want to get an artsy stem in the future because I love my Arizer portables so much.
 
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OF

Well-Known Member
JxhKwVv.jpg

This is a fun graph I think, and it shows us a lot of details of the heat flow.

First, please notice the general shape of the Green curve. It rises quite fast at first then slows to finally 'crawl' up to about 390F? That sort of curve, were it rises (or falls) rapidly at first and slows as it approaches a limit (in theory never reaching it) is often called 'asympotatic' as it approaches and asymptote:
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Asymptote

The important part here is there's a "time constant" in that curve. It looks to be something like 15 seconds to me. In that much time, 'one time constant', the value rises to 2/3 (I think 63% exactly?) of the 'final value. In the next time constant, it grows 2/3 of what's left and so on. Early on, when the difference is big the flow rate is high and change is fast. As the difference drops, so does the transfer and the 'slope of the curve'.

You can see this same curve in the recovery between hits.

On the other curve we see a very rapid rise (short TC) on heat up since the average heat just around it is much (50-80 degrees?) hotter so heat can be quickly transferred in. That heat transfer matches the drop on the other curve and we end up with a smaller offset for the eventual smaller flow. When the hit stops we can see the leads strip the heat away from that area of the load, the time constant (TC) there is longer it seems? That too makes sense to me. That is it matches the heat flows I think are going on.

At least that's what I think I see.

Fun stuff.

OF
 

GetLeft

Well-Known Member
turning the Air into a chill session group vape to again complement the mighty during sessions with friends.

I was mighty impressed with the Air when I first got it and attempted to convince my non-vaping buddies of the virtues of vaping by letting them try it. Didn't work. I think the Air's best application is as a single-user vape.
 

thx1138

Well-Known Member
I agree with that @GetLeft - so I gave my OG to my brother who rolls and burns weed - he is huge, 6'6" and looks like a mountain man. The Air is the size of his pinky finger, and it takes alot to get this guy going. Anyways he loves it, but I believe thats because I gave it to him to use personally, and if I tried to share it with him, he would probably have had a different experience. I gave him the XMax Starry too, and he likes the OG Air more.
 
thx1138,

essie1

Member
Nice topic. Thank you guys for all that research!

I'm so statisfied with the quality of the Air1 that I have ordered the Air2 Mystic Blue. I love the idea that I can do lower temp sessions with the Air2, compared to the Air1. The lowest (blue) setting on the Air1 felt sometimes a little too hot for me. I'm only using the aroma stem.

Still happy with my Xtar charger!
Still happy with my Arizer portable!

-Easy to clean
-Big clouds
-Takes me there in a minute
 
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metaknight

I dab. A lot.
Nice topic. Thank you guys for all that research!

I'm so statisfied with the quality of the Air1 that I have ordered the Air2 Mystic Blue. I love the idea that I can do lower temp sessions with the Air2, compared to the Air1. The lowest (blue) setting on the Air1 felt sometimes a little too hot for me. I'm only using the aroma stem.

Still happy with my Xtar charger!
Still happy with my Arizer portable!

-Easy to clean
-Big clouds
-Takes me there in a minute

You're a lucky one, being able to enjoy such low temperatures. I enjoy anything from 380F and up. I also use dry stems frequently but lately I've been using my GonG at home with my Air II.
 

BigJr48

Well-Known Member
Is there a difference in heaters for the solo2 or air 2? I like the sleekness over the solo 2 idk which to get :(

Both have same heating chambers and airflow differences are in batteries Solo 2 internal, Air 2 removable.
 
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metaknight

I dab. A lot.
Is there a difference in heaters for the solo2 or air 2? I like the sleekness over the solo 2 idk which to get :(

Although they are very similar in vapor production, the Solo II does push out a little more thick vapor. (You can turn up the heat in the Air II to match the load temperature of the Solo II) If you like cloud chasing more then Solo II. If you're down for a little more portability and interchangeable batteries then Air II.
 

jimmy13

Member
Hi all

After receiving some useful info from the forum and some online research I ended up getting the Arizer Air 2 as my first vaporizer.
Which accessories would you recommend for it either from Arizer or also elsewhere?
 
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UnevenPizza

I dream of Pizza
Hi all

After receiving some useful info from the forum and some online research I ended up getting the Arizer Air 2 as my first vaporizer.
Which accessories would you recommend for it either from Arizer or also elsewhere?

Maybe a gong and little bubbler, arizer has gongs but you can get them on most vape sites.

It's not needed, but I prefer using mine through water at higher temperatures and/or when the session goes for 10 minutes or more.

The silicone cover from the air 1 fits the air 2,but you would need to cut a hole for the charger socket. If you turn it upside down it leaves the buttons and display almost completely unblocked.

Don't know why they didn't make a cover that fits the air 2 specifically. But I never leave the house without protection ;D
 
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LabPong

Well-Known Member
Hi all

After receiving some useful info from the forum and some online research I ended up getting the Arizer Air 2 as my first vaporizer.
Which accessories would you recommend for it either from Arizer or also elsewhere?

jimmy....if you at all want to use with water.....I highly recommend getting a D020-D of dhgate.com It is a perfect size water unit and the Air's balance very well with it. It also is comfortable to use and performs very well.
 

stickstones

Vapor concierge
Here's another fun graph that I did real quick to see if my pump setup would work. This is the Air 2 at 390F with a loaded bowl of abv. The draws are simulated with a pump and are pretty strong, I think. The next thing for me to do is quantify the air flow on this thing. Colors are the same...green outside glass bowl and red inside.

mevlKso.jpg


Just for kicks I left the pump on for a while at the end to see how it would do under extreme situations. The Air 2 eventually stabilized even under this strong load.
 

HippieHitman

HotBoxin' My Wheelchair
what kind of battery does the Air 2 use? I know the OG used 18650 but what about the 2? Are they different?
 
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OF

Well-Known Member
Here's another fun graph that I did real quick to see if my pump setup would work. This is the Air 2 at 390F with a loaded bowl of abv. The draws are simulated with a pump and are pretty strong, I think. The next thing for me to do is quantify the air flow on this thing.

Fun stuff for sure. You can see where 'you' (your pump....) overran the vape some, which I think we as users often do? My SOP of guess is you're 'not unrealistic' right now? How does the ABV look compared to the same number of hits normally done?

Thanks for the additional 'food for thought'.

what kind of battery does the Air 2 use? I know the OG used 18650 but what about the 2? Are they different?

Yes, it's an 18650 too. But perhaps not 'any old 18650', as was the case in Air. The factory cells are fine of course, but some otherwise excellent 18650s don't work reliably (can hang up in the tube causing contact problems for instance) and some are too long or fat to even play.

Since it offers an increase in charge life, it's no doubt not the same 18650 as before, if I was guessing I'd bet it's the same NCR18650B used in Solo II???

OF
 
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HippieHitman

HotBoxin' My Wheelchair
Fun stuff for sure. You can see where 'you' (your pump....) overran the vape some, which I think we as users often do? My SOP of guess is you're 'not unrealistic' right now? How does the ABV look compared to the same number of hits normally done?

Thanks for the additional 'food for thought'.



Yes, it's an 18650 too. But perhaps not 'any old 18650', as was the case in Air. The factory cells are fine of course, but some otherwise excellent 18650s don't work reliably (can hang up in the tube causing contact problems for instance) and some are too long or fat to even play.

Since it offers an increase in charge life, it's no doubt not the same 18650 as before, if I was guessing I'd bet it's the same NCR18650B used in Solo II???

OF
Why would you think this? The air battery and solo battery life is so drastically different and the different charging methods? I was asking because is there any decent batteries on amazon?
 
HippieHitman,

stickstones

Vapor concierge
Fun stuff for sure. You can see where 'you' (your pump....) overran the vape some, which I think we as users often do? My SOP of guess is you're 'not unrealistic' right now? How does the ABV look compared to the same number of hits normally done?

I should have checked the abv closely, but iirc, it wasn't much more cooked than when it went in (I vape my stuff at high temps). Mostly, I'm just using it since it's the best simulator of fresh herb I can get...works better than the hemp fiber.

I think my pump may be set to higher than what people normally do. When I ran this test in real life I wasn't able to get the lines that close, and I was trying. The last draw was me saying 'fuck it' and leaving the pump on way longer than we can draw just to see what would happen...

Gonna bop on over to the Mighty thread to drop a graph I just did on that one.
 
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