Arizer Air II

Summer

Summer

Long Island, NY
@KeroZen, what do you lubricate your glass joints with? Also, I mostly see glass joints w/ that (don't know what to call it) ground foggy white abraded look, but I do, rarely, see some adaptors with just plain clear glass. Wouldn't the clear glass lend itself to less abrasion over time as it's not ground; although I would tend to think the grounded ones seal better(?). Obviously, I am a glass newbie.
 
KeroZen

KeroZen

Chronic vapaholic
@Summer: let's not derail the thread too much, we have a dedicated one in the Glass section here >> http://fuckcombustion.com/threads/glass-on-glass-unhealthy.1882/

Lipstick balm works, as well as various kinds of oils, like coconut. But some oils might turn rancid over time so it's best to clean and reapply as needed.

And as @LabPong said above, yes obviously polished joints will create less friction than ground ones, as you rightly intuited.
 
m0sh

m0sh

Singer Song Writer Stoner
KeroZen said:
@Summer: let's not derail the thread too much, we have a dedicated one in the Glass section here >> http://fuckcombustion.com/threads/glass-on-glass-unhealthy.1882/

Lipstick balm works, as well as various kinds of oils, like coconut. But some oils might turn rancid over time so it's best to clean and reapply as needed.

And as @LabPong said above, yes obviously polished joints will create less friction than ground ones, as you rightly intuited.
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Lipstick balm?
Wow, I never thought about it!!! haha!

Would you say, coconut oil or Lipstick balm?
 
KeroZen

KeroZen

Chronic vapaholic
I'd say whatever smell you prefer! :p

You can always wash them clean afterwards to get rid of it if you are not satisfied. Beware that they will get a bit sticky and might catch dust and other crap during transport. But if you don't overdo (just a hint is enough) and apply to the female joint rather than the male, you might minimize that inconvenience.

In labs they use petroleum based lubricants, that's obviously something we need to avoid. Anyway, whatever you chose, you will have to clean and reapply from time to time as the lubricating action wears out.

Make sure no part is exposed to the vapor though, otherwise it will likely alter the taste (can happen if you have mismatched ISO vs US joints which have the same taper but different lengths)
 
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LabPong

LabPong

Well-Known Member
I've never seen a need to lubricate any joint piece myself. But I also drill carb holes in almost every water unit I have if they do not come with one....and it seems 99% of the glass now a days come without.

Edit.....

Also after reading KeroZen's post .....now i see why the lube is needed for in glass joints. And now I have another reason to make sure I have carbs on my water units....lol


invertedisdead said:
Have you tried one of these?
http://www.puffitup.com/Arizer-Air-Solo-H2O-Filtration-Stem-p/qtqc.solo-bubb.htm
Click to expand...

I did...not a great experience at all.....you have to draw pretty slowly and lightly....or you just get water in your draw and it does not hold enough water to allow a good cooling/filter effect. But because it is an extended glass piece with inner pieces....it just acts like a longer stem.
 
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m0sh

m0sh

Singer Song Writer Stoner
KeroZen said:
I'd say whatever smell you prefer! :p

You can always wash them clean afterwards to get rid of it if you are not satisfied. Beware that they will get a bit sticky and might catch dust and other crap during transport. But if you don't overdo (just a hint is enough) and apply to the female joint rather than the male, you might minimize that inconvenience.

In labs they used petroleum based lubricants, that's obviously something we need to avoid. Anyway, whatever you chose, you will have to clean and reapply from time to time as the lubricating action wears out.

Make sure no part is exposed to the vapor though, otherwise it will likely alter the taste (can happen if you have mismatched ISO vs US joints which have the same taper but different lengths)
Click to expand...

Coconut is it :) Cheers mate.
 
ataxian

ataxian

PALE BLUE DOT
KeroZen said:
Since I joined FC, and over the years, I had to study the various material properties (and their safety implications that we are not allowed to discuss in the product threads, surely to avoid much redundancy, even if I don't necessarily agree with that rule)

It's a fascinating subject, but somehow I wished it didn't become a requirement. Five years ago for instance, I never imagined I would have to worry whether say polyimide tape vapor was safe to inhale or not... But I digress.

The thing is, there's no magical material out there, they all have their short-comings. But from a health perspective, I didn't find anything that could beat glass. In fact, I didn't find any reported case of glass allergy (when all metals can be problematic, including the often labeled "bio-inert" Titanium, which a friend of mine unfortunately had his body reject the surgical implants he received after an accident)

The only theoretical concern we collectively identified on FC would be fine glass dust particles formation from the GonG joints grinding over time. And the proposed solution is to lubricate your joints, like they do with laboratory glassware.

But yeah, sorry my good man @ataxian, the thing breaks, and way too easily sometimes... :rolleyes:
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I will buy a year supply of GonG's and yes @invertedisdead I do have the stem that takes water.
My bad about GLASS! It's part of vaporizing.

SMOKING I miss however the FLAVOR of VAPORIZING make's up any draw backs.

We have no carpet at or in our home.
My wife doesn't like carpet.
Buy GonG's then!
I will find a better material someday before I die?
WINE = GLASS
CANNABIS = GLASS

GLASS for now!
 
OF

OF

Well-Known Member
KeroZen said:
In labs they use petroleum based lubricants, that's obviously something we need to avoid.
Click to expand...

And why is it 'obvious' that petroleum based products 'need to be avoided'? Just out of idle curiosity what did you think (many) lip balms use as a base? The stuff put into many such products should be used with caution of course, but one of my favorites for such uses, Mineral Oil, comes in a bottle labeled for human consumption (constipation you know). A bit of Vaseline ('Petroleum Jelly', just heavier grade Mineral Oil) does a good job, IMO.

Eatable oils ('salad' or 'cooking') are also fine but often dry out or go rancid later in life. As would 'Butcher Block Dressing' (sold for wooden cutting boards) which is......wait for it.....Mineral Oil. I'd take Peanut or Rape Seed ('Canola', a marketing stroke.....) over Olive as many pressings of Olive oils have lots of contamination, others are more pure from a chemical POV.

The ground glass joints are much more precise than the 'as blown' ones on cheap glass. You just can't mold glass all that perfectly, it 'shrinks back' too much on cooling to control well. So the added expense of grinding to size when needed. Being 'out of round' (rather than the wrong size) is the usual issue. The glass is still soft coming out and can change shape (but not finished size) as it cools. So for critical applications mating parts are typically ground later on. The times I've seen it done it was done with a brass tool and diamond grit in oil. The diamond sticks into the brass (which doesn't 'grind away') and 'bites into' the glass (which does). Pretty slick, really. It should work with less expensive grits, but industrial diamond compound is mighty cheap these days.

Another technique worth considering is wrapping the male GonG fitting with either PTFE ('Plumbers') tape or dental floss (I use the waxed kind.....petroleum distillate again). Either improve the seal and make removal much easier, which I think are the two issues in play? I'm a fan of the tape sometimes.

OF
 
Summer

Summer

Long Island, NY
metaknight said:
My Air II should arrive by Thursday at the latest, but USPS said it should be here by Wednesday. Patiently waiting, vaping bowls out of my OG Air
Click to expand...
Aaaah, @metaknight, you're spending these last nights saying goodbye to your Air 1, reliving happy times the two of you spent together. :D

Looking forward to hearing your initial review.

*Don't forget to take the Solo 2 off your wishlist in your sig. Another wish realized. :tup:
 
CarolKing

CarolKing

Singer of songs and a vapor connoisseur
Summer said:
@KeroZen, what do you lubricate your glass joints with? Also, I mostly see glass joints w/ that (don't know what to call it) ground foggy white abraded look, but I do, rarely, see some adaptors with just plain clear glass. Wouldn't the clear glass lend itself to less abrasion over time as it's not ground; although I would tend to think the grounded ones seal better(?). Obviously, I am a glass newbie.
Click to expand...
I have a large tub of Burt's Bees Lip Balm that I use, it's just bees wax. I also have some @Ed's TnT Balm Ass Butter. I use this on my logvapes as well.
 
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metaknight

metaknight

I dab. A lot.
Summer said:
Aaaah, @metaknight, you're spending these last nights saying goodbye to your Air 1, reliving happy times the two of you spent together. :D

Looking forward to hearing your initial review.

*Don't forget to take the Solo 2 off your wishlist in your sig. Another wish realized. :tup:
Click to expand...

I think that the Solo II should remain on my wish list, as I am a big Arizer portables fan and want to relive the old Solo with the new spin on it.

I plan on giving my Air to a friend to help them quit smoking, and replacing it with the Air II. But I do eventually want the Solo II as well. :D It will probably hold some great uses on its own because of its extremely large battery capacity.
 
m0sh

m0sh

Singer Song Writer Stoner
OF said:
And why is it 'obvious' that petroleum based products 'need to be avoided'? Just out of idle curiosity what did you think (many) lip balms use as a base? The stuff put into many such products should be used with caution of course, but one of my favorites for such uses, Mineral Oil, comes in a bottle labeled for human consumption (constipation you know). A bit of Vaseline ('Petroleum Jelly', just heavier grade Mineral Oil) does a good job, IMO.

Eatable oils ('salad' or 'cooking') are also fine but often dry out or go rancid later in life. As would 'Butcher Block Dressing' (sold for wooden cutting boards) which is......wait for it.....Mineral Oil. I'd take Peanut or Rape Seed ('Canola', a marketing stroke.....) over Olive as many pressings of Olive oils have lots of contamination, others are more pure from a chemical POV.

The ground glass joints are much more precise than the 'as blown' ones on cheap glass. You just can't mold glass all that perfectly, it 'shrinks back' too much on cooling to control well. So the added expense of grinding to size when needed. Being 'out of round' (rather than the wrong size) is the usual issue. The glass is still soft coming out and can change shape (but not finished size) as it cools. So for critical applications mating parts are typically ground later on. The times I've seen it done it was done with a brass tool and diamond grit in oil. The diamond sticks into the brass (which doesn't 'grind away') and 'bites into' the glass (which does). Pretty slick, really. It should work with less expensive grits, but industrial diamond compound is mighty cheap these days.

Another technique worth considering is wrapping the male GonG fitting with either PTFE ('Plumbers') tape or dental floss (I use the waxed kind.....petroleum distillate again). Either improve the seal and make removal much easier, which I think are the two issues in play? I'm a fan of the tape sometimes.

OF
Click to expand...

Can you show a picture of the product you use?

Currently, I still have my Toob Loob, but it costs too much (with shipping here) and feels like a lipstick balm anyway
 
OF

OF

Well-Known Member
m0sh said:
Can you show a picture of the product you use?
Click to expand...

Sure, sold here as 'Mineral Oil' (sometimes 'light Mineral Oil'). This is the bottle I'm using right now:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005BUNQSM/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

You can get it in 'Drug Stores' as it's "USP" (Food/medicine grade). Like I said, they sell the same stuff for treating wood cutting boards, this version is unquestionably 'safe' for incidental consumption. Hopefully you can find some locally, it lasts a very long time. Like I said, Petrolium Jelly (like Vaseline) is just a thicker grade of the same stuff. First 'discovered' by oil field workers collecting on the shaft seals of deep pumps ('nodding donkeys' used to pump 'black gold' out after the pressure drops. The vapors condensed as they escaped and left clear white deposits that the workers quickly found protected damaged hands and chapped lips. Whoda thought?

https://www.amazon.com/Mineral-Cutting-Boards-Countertops-Butcher/dp/B01B5ECU3O

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mineral_oil

jdent3 said:
I can't tell if this is the Arizer Air thread or the lube thread anymore.
Click to expand...

Sorry you're confused, IMO you shouldn't be. We're asking and answering questions related to folk's use of WTs on this vape (at least potentially). Answering legitimate questions seems appropriate to me. Way more useful use of bandwidth than 'I just decided to order one of these"? Or yet another 'is the draw resistance fixed?' post. Or any of the 'I'm sure this has been discussed but this is a long thread and I'm really busy so someone who knows please post a special review of the topic for me to save me the trouble'? Only they NEVER say 'please', do they? As I understand the rules if you think things are out of line you should report us (quietly, off line) rather than confront folks publicly and disrupt things. 'Let the Mods' decide it? They can decide if the question is legitimate and appropriate, for myself I'm going to answer the sincere ones I can, or at least try. Part of helping each other.......

Regards to all.

OF
 
WildChild

WildChild

Seeking My Shangri-La
LabPong said:
nawww....they were not discussing it...just someone made a sophomoric comment ...
Click to expand...

I was simply trying to be amusing. It was mentioned in a few messages (excluding my own) on that thread so I will still consider it a 'discussion'. Even though it was a joke.

Quick questions for the Air 2 owners: What is the maximum temperature? 210C or 220C?
 
WildChild,
metaknight

metaknight

I dab. A lot.
I've been TRYING to KEEP THIS THREAD on the TRACKS. :razz:

My Air II seems to be in the area, or at least the tracker says so :haw:

I'll have to wait until I get home to charge it up and such. Pictures will come Thursday most likely. :tup:

EDIT: @WildChild , it's 428F or 220C.
 
m0sh

m0sh

Singer Song Writer Stoner
OF said:
Sure, sold here as 'Mineral Oil' (sometimes 'light Mineral Oil'). This is the bottle I'm using right now:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005BUNQSM/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

You can get it in 'Drug Stores' as it's "USP" (Food/medicine grade). Like I said, they sell the same stuff for treating wood cutting boards, this version is unquestionably 'safe' for incidental consumption. Hopefully you can find some locally, it lasts a very long time. Like I said, Petrolium Jelly (like Vaseline) is just a thicker grade of the same stuff. First 'discovered' by oil field workers collecting on the shaft seals of deep pumps ('nodding donkeys' used to pump 'black gold' out after the pressure drops. The vapors condensed as they escaped and left clear white deposits that the workers quickly found protected damaged hands and chapped lips. Whoda thought?

https://www.amazon.com/Mineral-Cutting-Boards-Countertops-Butcher/dp/B01B5ECU3O

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mineral_oil




OF
Click to expand...


LOL!!!!
Consumption haha.

I guess then - this would do the trick -
139113752.jpg
 
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