Any non toxic high heat adhesive’s out there?
- Thread starter TeaCup
- Start date
Psyentist
Well-Known Member
I used this to put the glass back into my splinter Z when it came out.
www.pcepoxy.com
It says it’s non-toxic once cured and safe to use on containers for drinking water.
I couldn’t find any medical grade epoxy here in Australia and this was the best I could find. Hope it’s ok, haha.
PC-Fahrenheit™ – Protective Coating Company
www.pcepoxy.com
It says it’s non-toxic once cured and safe to use on containers for drinking water.
I couldn’t find any medical grade epoxy here in Australia and this was the best I could find. Hope it’s ok, haha.
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Thanks I'm gonna look into that. The problem I'm having is so many things say food safe or something similar but when doing more research "food safe" seems to mean different things to different people. I was also looking at epoxys' and now can't remember why I ruled them out.I used this to put the glass back into my splinter Z when it came out.
PC-Fahrenheit™ – Protective Coating Company
It says it’s non-toxic once cured and safe to use on containers for drinking water.
I couldn’t find any medical grade epoxy here in Australia and this was the best I could find. Hope it’s ok, haha.
I wouldn't put this in the vapor path but I think this is fine for high heat applications (from the splinter thread):
Not sure what's considered vapor path. I have three different manufacturers wood butane vapes in three different types of wood and I'm trying to close up the wood path in any one of them, preferrably my O'Connell Bong. I bought some razor thin 316 SS sheets that are almost as pliable as aluminum foil, and some 316 SS earring studs that I was gonna dremel down to hopefully a sharper point and do my best to make them hold the SS sheets in place. So any adhesive would be between the wood walls and SS Sheets and I just can't seem to figure out, or even understand, if off gassing would occur. I did some more reading yesterday on all the epoxy's out there and I'm still just as confused. If I didn't love butane as much as I do I'd cut my losses with these three vapes, but I want one of them to work in the worst way. I've already tried to dremel the studs and getting a sharper point was harder than I thought it would be, so having an adhesive would be alot eaiser.
Farid
Well-Known Member
If the SS sheets are the heating element, adhesives directly applied are not a good idea. They will likely offgas or fail, and even if it’s "safe", it will negatively effect the experience.
It's hard to say without seeing the design you're building, but there is almost always some way to fasten other than adhesives.
It's hard to say without seeing the design you're building, but there is almost always some way to fasten other than adhesives.
I can't figure out another way. The oven area is slanted and small and it's hard as heck to maneuver anything in there. I only briefly tried to dremel the studs into a nail like point so this is something I plan on taking more time the next time I try. Here's a link to O'Connell's bong with some pics of the inside:
봉 석신
*discontinued model* Ironically named after my Wife's birth name, the symbol 봉 is Korean for Bong and will be engraved in place of the O'Connell Beard face. The 봉 석신 (Bong Sook Shin), Our full sized water piece adaptable dry herb device. Will sport the logo (봉) as pictured, Adding laser...
Not sure what you mean when you say "are". But you'll probably have a better idea when you see the pics. The SS sheet (shim stock) will be placed over the wood oven area with the adhesive obviously inbetween. So not sure if that means it's in the direct vapor path or not. To me I would guess as to say it's in the vapor area, just not necessarily in the direct path???
Thanks for that. I'm probably gonna just try the nails though, there's just too much uncertainty for me with the epoxy's, unless I read something that's clear as day saying it's safe.
badbee
Well-Known Member
Yeah, I hadn't understood your scenario when I posted this. This was used for Splinters but it was up in a dead end channel away from the main air path and the heat. I wouldn't put this, or any adhesive, near the heater, that's a place for mechanical fasteners.
Ok, stupid question.......should I be looking into mechanical fasteners......and what would they be exactly, lol?
Are you trying to line the inside of a cone-shaped wood tube with steel foil?
badbee
Well-Known Member
I just mean anything that's not adhesive: rivets, screws, clamps, crimps...Ok, stupid question.......should I be looking into mechanical fasteners......and what would they be exactly, lol?
Hmmm, not really sure what you mean. Which part of the bowl are you talking about, the section you put the herb in or the above section that's curved? I have some 0.001 mm 316 SS foil sheets that I'm gonna use for the curved area. For the area of the herb I'll use a SS ring or cut some glass to size and friction fit them in with a probable combination of sanding and some of the SS sheets. My problem with the SS sheets is I made a test run with them in my CouchLog stem and it wasn't really a success. I may try it again because I think something wasn't quite right and I was in too much a hurry when I was doing it and I think I left a tiny bit of the wood exposed also.
I've been thinking about it all day at work and I'm wondering if the combination below would work and what people thought of this scenario........
The SS nails I have are not gonna work, I just opened my O'Connell up and didn't realize how far I had actually done on the curved part. It was close enough to being done and there's far too much of a gap that vapor can get under that SS foil. There's a product called Stone Coat Epoxy that can withstand temps up to 500 degrees and has zero VOC in it. Apparently VOC stands for volatile organic compounds and I still have to research that part, but it atleast sounds healthier, lol. What if I put the tiniest thinnest amount of that between the SS foil and the wood of just the curved area so I'm able to get it so vapor (for the most part) can't get under there. And then the herb area I can friction fit the SS ring or glass ring. I gotta believe you could put the thinnest amount imaginable underneath the SS foil and it would hold in place. Would that really be that toxic????
How come some artisan makers line there Dyna's with it? I assume this was to eliminate the wood flavoring?
You lost me on that one.......the entire vape is wood?
In all honesty, after last night I'm giving up. I lined my Dreamwood Vapopipe about 90% of all the wood and it still had a massive wood taste. I'm gonna keep the O'Connell and one day maybe have some "a-ha" moment with it, but for now I'm gonna try and go the Piro route with some sort of custom stem. Thanks alot for trying to help.
Hmmmmm, ya got a point there. I still see people talking about them from a taste perspective though too. Either way, it doesn't seem to matter now anyways.
Yup, that's definitely a fact!!
But I did manage to make it completely out of one piece of sheet so there wasn't anything to seep around or under. But there was one spot that I just couldn't get at, it was a very small spot of wood exposed. I said 90% covered and to be honest it may have even been more covered than that, which is why I'm kinda perplexed.......it had about as much wood taste as if nothing had been covered. But like I said, I'm giving up for now.........now onto my email from Aehzenn Wood about that custom Piro stem!!! 