florduh
Well-Known Member
Yes, AF can give you a 15 second time out.
Yeah, you can usually fix it by loading the mod's standard firmware from the manufacturer's site.
Advanced THC e-Juice / mods / tanks / coils / builds / recipes
- Thread starter randomtoker
- Start date
Yes, AF can give you a 15 second time out.
Yeah, you can usually fix it by loading the mod's standard firmware from the manufacturer's site.
tennisguru1
EXCELSIOR!
15 sec, Arctic Fox really good for peeps who change atty's around on mods.
Those 8 save slots good for those profiles that @daltesean has done such
a great job doing along with his guide.
I have had no problems at all getting repeatable great hits off all my setups
if I don't remove them from the 510 connection on each atty mod combo.
Paying very close attention to the Heat Sync that is screwed it tight to the
mod and left alone after you set it for your preference.
I hear that MyEvic firmware was Arctic Fox's early beginnings.
I will be interested in comparing the actual real world results
on AF vs MyEvic on my setups that work Awesome on MyEvic's
Defaults & 20 second timeout button press.
Really if MyEvic worked on Pico & Espion I wouldn't even mess with AF.
Not that it isn't awesome, but it's overkill for my simple needs.
Now if I am forced to install it because of no other option, it will be interesting
to see if it really works better on the same setups I have already on MyEvic.
I am totally open to being completely surprised and wanting Af/Red Panda
to be a big improvement over MyEvic, but I seriously doubt it on these 510 connects.
With my Glass Training Wheel globes there is no bullshit on what's what with vapor.
You can see it in the Globe & it trains you on what is really a good pull by Visual Feedback, teaches noobs how to draw in a short time.
His_Highness
In the land of the blind, the one-eyed man is king
I've searched for the answer but I'm getting differing info. I think this would be the right thread. If I missed a post or there's another thread I should read please let me know....
Methods to use live resin in a e-cig????
Summary: Got a cannabis CBD cartridge (ZELTOR Cartridge - THC: 0.638%, CBD: 30.621%, CBN:0%, CO2 extraction - MCT oil - Ceramic rod w/ 3 wick holes) for migraines from Knox dispensary. Came with a e-cig battery/pen (Knox rebrand - Gen2). Patient hit it like a Serena Williams forehand all day long for about a week. Didn't help in any way so gave up on it. Had some shatter and mixed it 1:1 with the contents of the cartridge...... Put the CBD oil and shatter in a very thick shot glass by using a syringe to take out the CBD oil. Placed the shot glass in a pan of hot water heated on the top of the stove at low and mixed the contents until the concentrate completely dissolved into the CBD oil. Used the syringe to suck up the mixture and shot it back into the cartridge. It worked great! Huge CBD AND THC vapor hits, easy on the throat, tasted way better and WORKED ON THE MIGRAINES. The CBD oil alone didn't do squat but the combination helped the migraines, got euphoric ,got rid of the nausea and gave the patient an appetite.
Question: Wanted to try the same thing as above with a batch of "live resin" instead of shatter and CBD oil. The live resin has separated a bit so that there is a tiny bit of reclaim looking oil forming on the top with the rest being a bunch of tiny cream colored bits that look like mini grits making up the majority.
- I've read that live resin isn't decarbed and that e-cigs like the one I got (one temp only) may not have a high enough temp to decarb during the hit. Do I need to decarb the live resin for us in the e-cig?
- If I need to decarb what approach would I use? Would using the same parameters as decarbing herb destroy the terps that make live resin so good tasting? Read that I might be able to decarb at 240F for 20 minutes and still keep the terps. Terps boiling point is above 250F?
- If I heat up the live resin using the the same double boiler approach will the baby grits liquefy and allow me to use the live resin as is or would I need CBD oil, VG or PG? I do have some left over, very runny CBD oil I could use to mix in if need be.
Methods to use live resin in a e-cig????
Summary: Got a cannabis CBD cartridge (ZELTOR Cartridge - THC: 0.638%, CBD: 30.621%, CBN:0%, CO2 extraction - MCT oil - Ceramic rod w/ 3 wick holes) for migraines from Knox dispensary. Came with a e-cig battery/pen (Knox rebrand - Gen2). Patient hit it like a Serena Williams forehand all day long for about a week. Didn't help in any way so gave up on it. Had some shatter and mixed it 1:1 with the contents of the cartridge...... Put the CBD oil and shatter in a very thick shot glass by using a syringe to take out the CBD oil. Placed the shot glass in a pan of hot water heated on the top of the stove at low and mixed the contents until the concentrate completely dissolved into the CBD oil. Used the syringe to suck up the mixture and shot it back into the cartridge. It worked great! Huge CBD AND THC vapor hits, easy on the throat, tasted way better and WORKED ON THE MIGRAINES. The CBD oil alone didn't do squat but the combination helped the migraines, got euphoric ,got rid of the nausea and gave the patient an appetite.
Question: Wanted to try the same thing as above with a batch of "live resin" instead of shatter and CBD oil. The live resin has separated a bit so that there is a tiny bit of reclaim looking oil forming on the top with the rest being a bunch of tiny cream colored bits that look like mini grits making up the majority.
- I've read that live resin isn't decarbed and that e-cigs like the one I got (one temp only) may not have a high enough temp to decarb during the hit. Do I need to decarb the live resin for us in the e-cig?
- If I need to decarb what approach would I use? Would using the same parameters as decarbing herb destroy the terps that make live resin so good tasting? Read that I might be able to decarb at 240F for 20 minutes and still keep the terps. Terps boiling point is above 250F?
- If I heat up the live resin using the the same double boiler approach will the baby grits liquefy and allow me to use the live resin as is or would I need CBD oil, VG or PG? I do have some left over, very runny CBD oil I could use to mix in if need be.
tennisguru1
EXCELSIOR!
HUH?
WoW!! What? too complicated, my head hurts.
I'm a simple man, drop it in a DTv3 donut or a QQ or a TAF Sai
& enjoy the taste at low temps or pump up temp on Sai and get a Ti nail hit.
peace out, lol
His_Highness
In the land of the blind, the one-eyed man is king
I completely get what your saying.....The problem I have is the user/patient likes the simplicity of the e-cig and is comfortable/confident with the legal side when using it outside the home. If I can't get the answers to my questions I'll have to experiment on my own. If the initial experiment fails and I ruin some of the resin due to how thick the end result ...... I could add my tears to make the next try-out more liquid
tennisguru1
EXCELSIOR!
I completely get what your saying.....The problem I have is the user/patient likes the simplicity of the e-cig and is comfortable/confident with the legal side when using it outside the home. If I can't get the answers to my questions I'll have to experiment on my own. If the initial experiment fails and I ruin some of the resin due to how thick the end result ...... I could add my tears to make the next try-out more liquid
Yes, I feel for your situation & the Patient also.
You are truly a Wise King your highness, wisdom is rare in a manager.
fernand
Well-Known Member
Problem is, you got some brains behind that migraine.
Tell ya what. Here is a table of temperatures. Hope it shows
up, as it's a tricky thing with images hosted on imgur
and I think you might be OK doing what you suggest.
I might be leaning that way if I couldn't control the
cartridge temp, or being in a doubting mood. Yes, you
could add a bit of that runny stuff to thin it as you warm it.
VG and PG are not very miscible with oils, and unnecessary.
Tears neither.
But ... A) we got some better atomizers around here and
B) you can buy very good cartridges like the V9 that will
work even with thick oils.
C) you should get yourself $100 worth of gear more worthy
of Your Highness, startin' with a "mod" i.e. a battery that
can regulate the temp by a clever feeback from the resistance
of the heater wire changing as it heats up. This before
you go risking that precious oil. For one thing, you can
vape it at a relatively steady and probably lower
programmed temp, for another you won't be carbonizin'
that shit so soon. Once you have the mod, that's about
half way up the $100, you might consider a more refined
"contraption" with which to vape. I humbly suggest, if
you're more of the "make it last" school, as opposed to
say Matt's own demo of his creation, that you'll like the
Quartz Quest. At least indoors. You could use half in
the cart, or a better one, at controlled wattage, and
smear bits of the other half in the Quartz Quest pan.
A little goes a long way.
https://imgur.com/uHL4H2H
Matt even sells it WITH a good Pico mod and a
battery all in a set. UNDER $100. Your Highness.
p.s. there are some, around here, who'll show you
how to run even that cart under Temp Control. Me,
I'm a simple man, manually setting watts works ok
too on something as fickle as a cartomizer.
Tell ya what. Here is a table of temperatures. Hope it shows
up, as it's a tricky thing with images hosted on imgur
and I think you might be OK doing what you suggest.
I might be leaning that way if I couldn't control the
cartridge temp, or being in a doubting mood. Yes, you
could add a bit of that runny stuff to thin it as you warm it.
VG and PG are not very miscible with oils, and unnecessary.
Tears neither.
But ... A) we got some better atomizers around here and
B) you can buy very good cartridges like the V9 that will
work even with thick oils.
C) you should get yourself $100 worth of gear more worthy
of Your Highness, startin' with a "mod" i.e. a battery that
can regulate the temp by a clever feeback from the resistance
of the heater wire changing as it heats up. This before
you go risking that precious oil. For one thing, you can
vape it at a relatively steady and probably lower
programmed temp, for another you won't be carbonizin'
that shit so soon. Once you have the mod, that's about
half way up the $100, you might consider a more refined
"contraption" with which to vape. I humbly suggest, if
you're more of the "make it last" school, as opposed to
say Matt's own demo of his creation, that you'll like the
Quartz Quest. At least indoors. You could use half in
the cart, or a better one, at controlled wattage, and
smear bits of the other half in the Quartz Quest pan.
A little goes a long way.
https://imgur.com/uHL4H2H
Matt even sells it WITH a good Pico mod and a
battery all in a set. UNDER $100. Your Highness.
p.s. there are some, around here, who'll show you
how to run even that cart under Temp Control. Me,
I'm a simple man, manually setting watts works ok
too on something as fickle as a cartomizer.
Last edited:
His_Highness
In the land of the blind, the one-eyed man is king
Problem is, you got some brains behind that migraine.
Tell ya what. Here is a table of temperatures. Hope it shows
up, as it's a tricky thing with images hosted on imgur
and I think you might be OK doing what you suggest.
I might be leaning that way if I couldn't control the
cartridge temp, or being in a doubting mood. Yes, you
could add a bit of that runny stuff to thin it as you warm it.
VG and PG are not very miscible with oils, and unnecessary.
Tears neither.
But ... A) we got some better atomizers around here and
B) you can buy very good cartridges like the V9 that will
work even with thick oils.
C) you should get yourself $100 worth of gear more worthy
of Your Highness, startin' with a "mod" i.e. a battery that
can regulate the temp by a clever feeback from the resistance
of the heater wire changing as it heats up. This before
you go risking that precious oil. For one thing, you can
vape it at a relatively steady and probably lower
programmed temp, for another you won't be carbonizin'
that shit so soon. Once you have the mod, that's about
half way up the $100, you might consider a more refined
"contraption" with which to vape. I humbly suggest, if
you're more of the "make it last" school, as opposed to
say Matt's own demo of his creation, that you'll like the
Quartz Quest. At least indoors. You could use half in
the cart, or a better one, at controlled wattage, and
smear bits of the other half in the Quartz Quest pan.
A little goes a long way.
https://imgur.com/uHL4H2H
Matt even sells it WITH a good Pico mod and a
battery all in a set. UNDER $100. Your Highness.
p.s. there are some, around here, who'll show you
how to run even that cart under Temp Control. Me,
I'm a simple man, manually setting watts works ok
too on something as fickle as a cartomizer.
THANKS SO MUCH FOR THE INFO! I can see the pics and table when I do the "Quote" for your post.
Here's how I'm interpreting the table.....The highest temp in the table is 482F and the lowest temp is 125F. So vape temps of at least 482F would cause the release of ALL the compounds. Vape temps of at least 428F seems to be the vape temp that would release the majority of the compounds I'm most interested in (highlighted in yellow). So as long as the e-cig is working at 428F and higher I shouldn't have to decarb the resin before use.
I'll look into the tech you've mentioned. A good friend gave me a couple cartridges that look very solid - ceramic glass cartridge/stainless steel like the V9 except only 2 ceramic holes and the two holes are a little smaller. The original cartridge I used from the dispensary looks more like the V9 because there are 3 larger holes.
I'm not sure what temp the e-cig I have works at but I doubt the CBD oil it came with from the dispensary was decarbed so I think I can assume, based on the table, that the e-cig temp is at least 356F.
I think I'll do the first experiment as follows (Not actually doing a decarb but some may occur as a residual):
- Heating and stirring the resin in the shot glass at about 250F till it becomes less thick.
- While still heating...Add/mix in the CBD oil to the resin in the shot glass a drop at a time till the mixture looks well mixed and a little more runny.
- Use the syringe to suck up the mixture while still warm and fill the cartridge.
- Let it cool and give it a go.
fernand
Well-Known Member
Best success or luck! Decarb is one of the (many) remaining mysteries. It's a chemical and not a physical process, so I don't think that just pushing the temp to vaporize all would not necessarily ensure that everything has fully decarboxylated.
But I bet it works, no matter what you do, because this is a kind and helpful plant.
I'm not sure you need to heat the mix to 250F to blend, 212F is water boiling anyway, and it will all blend at a much much lower temp.
Now, assuming we're really controlling temperature, which in a cart is harder because the area of contact is small, the compounds that boil very high are not the most "interesting".
If you keep temp below say 380, it's a much more focused effect. Over 400 and it's a sleepier thicker effect. For daytime I aim below 380 in a Quartz Quest or ceramic crucible, and Q-Tip and throw away the leftovers that could have vaporized at higher temps. For evening running more like up to 420 or more is good.
The boiling points on the chart are correct, but all sorts of "azeotropic" states are forming at intermediate temps as a complex mixture is heated, so there will be some of each higher boiling compound "dragged" into the vapor before its distinct boiling point is reached. It's like distilling moonshine, there's water evaporating before we hit its boiling point at 100 degrees C. In practice it means that there's probably no need to go over 450 F, which is a plausible "combustion threshold" anyway. Vegetable matter cellulose combusts at 451.
Oh, and the chart doesn't show the acidic form of all the cannabinoids, that decarboxylation converts to the less polar active forms. It's hard to imagine the complexity of different compounds boiling, forming azeotropes, condensing back down, as they are decarboxylating!
Just dropping them on a hot nail or banger as it cools, the simple man's way, might cause fewer headaches than thinking about this, and that probably explains everything ;-)
... but what about the patient?
But I bet it works, no matter what you do, because this is a kind and helpful plant.
I'm not sure you need to heat the mix to 250F to blend, 212F is water boiling anyway, and it will all blend at a much much lower temp.
Now, assuming we're really controlling temperature, which in a cart is harder because the area of contact is small, the compounds that boil very high are not the most "interesting".
If you keep temp below say 380, it's a much more focused effect. Over 400 and it's a sleepier thicker effect. For daytime I aim below 380 in a Quartz Quest or ceramic crucible, and Q-Tip and throw away the leftovers that could have vaporized at higher temps. For evening running more like up to 420 or more is good.
The boiling points on the chart are correct, but all sorts of "azeotropic" states are forming at intermediate temps as a complex mixture is heated, so there will be some of each higher boiling compound "dragged" into the vapor before its distinct boiling point is reached. It's like distilling moonshine, there's water evaporating before we hit its boiling point at 100 degrees C. In practice it means that there's probably no need to go over 450 F, which is a plausible "combustion threshold" anyway. Vegetable matter cellulose combusts at 451.
Oh, and the chart doesn't show the acidic form of all the cannabinoids, that decarboxylation converts to the less polar active forms. It's hard to imagine the complexity of different compounds boiling, forming azeotropes, condensing back down, as they are decarboxylating!
Just dropping them on a hot nail or banger as it cools, the simple man's way, might cause fewer headaches than thinking about this, and that probably explains everything ;-)
... but what about the patient?
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looney2nz
Research Geek, Mad Scientist
ok, I can't see the table, but I'll wager I know which graphic it is.
So know this, these temperatures are referenced for pretty much being measured (Merck standard) in a vacuum, not the normal ambient air pressure... so while there are appears to be a relationship between the compounds and their vapor/boiling points, where the effects are actually felt at sea level, and various elevations and temperatures is another story altogether. Since no one is actually trying to translate Merck numbers into real world numbers at various elevations, I think FC users should collaborate together for just such a test, assemble the aggregate data and build a more relevant chart with real world numbers. Should be a relatively straight forward study design and methodology.
His_Highness
In the land of the blind, the one-eyed man is king
@fernand and @looney2nz - Thanks so much for the info!
You just can't beat FC and the folks who frequent it when it comes to camaraderie and support.
You just can't beat FC and the folks who frequent it when it comes to camaraderie and support.
fernand
Well-Known Member
@looney2nz one of the difficulties is lack of access to GC/MS and other equipment to identify and measure what we are working with. It would be relatively easy to capture vapor (from a vaporizer that's calibrated and operating under reliable temp control) at different temps, then run the condensate through a GC/MS machine. That would give us a far far better idea of what we vape at what temps.
With a lot of handy lab equipment that used to cost thousands coming to be indecently affordable, like IR and thermocouple thermometers, pH meters, scales, etc, I've been drooling for a GC/MS setup. But it's still pretty pricey, and you need the supplies, maintenance etc.
So what do you have in mind?
p.s. These charts IMHO are still useful as guides. You know e.g. you're not getting much Borneol if vaping at 320 deg F, and that THC boils off before CBN.
https://i.imgur.com/Kwq46X4.jpg
With a lot of handy lab equipment that used to cost thousands coming to be indecently affordable, like IR and thermocouple thermometers, pH meters, scales, etc, I've been drooling for a GC/MS setup. But it's still pretty pricey, and you need the supplies, maintenance etc.
So what do you have in mind?
p.s. These charts IMHO are still useful as guides. You know e.g. you're not getting much Borneol if vaping at 320 deg F, and that THC boils off before CBN.
https://i.imgur.com/Kwq46X4.jpg
looney2nz
Research Geek, Mad Scientist
You can get used equipment on eBay, with service contracts (pretty cheap actually), you just need a technician trained to operate, clean and maintain the equipment (along with whatever support contract is necessary from the manufacturer).
But I would hope that we could partner with some independent labs (certainly NOT SC Labs) and assemble the results without going to tons of trouble, but this equipment is going to continue to fall... which is a good thing for the industry and companies that can take advantage of them sooner than later.
Extrapolating from guides is fine and all, but I want to know about real world results, especially for things like THCv, which are higher in temp (428F, want it, don't want benzene).
fernand
Well-Known Member
I was lookin' at a $9.99k portable GC/MS analyzer in flight cases yet.
Anybody here got $10k for a new very fascinating toy? Hey, anybody know 2Chainz? He likes expensive. Dig this, Mr Dos, we'll set ip up so you can KNOW, like really know, what you're ingestin'! And we'll train one of your assistantettes to clean the column n' shit. All we want is access to the machine when WE want to spec out some shit. Ok?
And the next step, Mr Dos, is we set up a short path frac and make some us some gourMAY dab, full cannabinoid, full terpene, full flavonoid! Keepin' it REAL!
Except the benzene and naphthalene, @looney2nz he don't like 'em, thought it's just the way Mamma Earth made it, benzene and all. Me, I got that closet Naphthalene fetiche. Nothing like some thick wool sweaters in the winter with that waft 'o moth balls.
Hey, you sure those boiling points in the chart aren't like standard 25c 1 Atm room temp and pressure BPs ?
I'd say the utility of the myrcene BP figure on space walks around the Space Station is pretty limited.
Anybody here got $10k for a new very fascinating toy? Hey, anybody know 2Chainz? He likes expensive. Dig this, Mr Dos, we'll set ip up so you can KNOW, like really know, what you're ingestin'! And we'll train one of your assistantettes to clean the column n' shit. All we want is access to the machine when WE want to spec out some shit. Ok?
And the next step, Mr Dos, is we set up a short path frac and make some us some gourMAY dab, full cannabinoid, full terpene, full flavonoid! Keepin' it REAL!
Except the benzene and naphthalene, @looney2nz he don't like 'em, thought it's just the way Mamma Earth made it, benzene and all. Me, I got that closet Naphthalene fetiche. Nothing like some thick wool sweaters in the winter with that waft 'o moth balls.
Hey, you sure those boiling points in the chart aren't like standard 25c 1 Atm room temp and pressure BPs ?
I'd say the utility of the myrcene BP figure on space walks around the Space Station is pretty limited.
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fernand
Well-Known Member
@looney2nz who's gonna be the boy in the bubble, whose liver enzymes are weakened by lack of proper stimulus due to all that protected environment natural livin'? You SURE those small quantities of "jack's sauce petrochemicals" that develop in the plant aren't therapeutic at that dosage?
It was in jest of course, or maybe not entirely, that George Carlin RIP said young people nowadays were coddled and weakened, while he grew up swimming in the East River, and he was "tempered in shit".
It was in jest of course, or maybe not entirely, that George Carlin RIP said young people nowadays were coddled and weakened, while he grew up swimming in the East River, and he was "tempered in shit".
looney2nz
Research Geek, Mad Scientist
fernand
Well-Known Member
In case anyone is worried about oversimplified Temperature Control algorithms, come see the ultimate PID chenglish mind-fuck instructions for the mag stirrer hot plate that just arrived today via Amazon Prime.
https://i.imgur.com/OJUdeCF.jpg
Now, let's remember that a hot plate like the ThermoFisher Scientific SuperNuova+ model costs $935, not including the temperature feedback probe, and their stirbars are priced between $42 and $220 each.
My order started with 10 stirbars in sizes from 35x9mm down to 6x3mm, 10 for $10.99. Then a set of borosilicate beakers (5, 10, 25 ml) for $5.95 and, finally, the Numerical Show Constant Temperature Magnetism Mixer itself, for $58.99. Shipped. Next-day delivered. On a Sunday.
I'd say that unless you're planning to Jumpstart a Professional Cannabis Suppository Boutique (Cannabis University course 101-C), then $76 for the Magnetism Mixer set vs ~$1500 for the same functionality in Fisher Scientific quality is very ... practical.
However. Compromises are inevitable. The thin aluminum plate with an edge-mounted heating coil calls for a sophisticated PID controller. Most of the Instruction Sheet can be deciphered about half-way, good enough to ignore the rest. Try it. But that last sentence starts out promising, then after the comma, it turns ... poetic.
https://i.imgur.com/2gNK5eD.png
https://i.imgur.com/OJUdeCF.jpg
Now, let's remember that a hot plate like the ThermoFisher Scientific SuperNuova+ model costs $935, not including the temperature feedback probe, and their stirbars are priced between $42 and $220 each.
My order started with 10 stirbars in sizes from 35x9mm down to 6x3mm, 10 for $10.99. Then a set of borosilicate beakers (5, 10, 25 ml) for $5.95 and, finally, the Numerical Show Constant Temperature Magnetism Mixer itself, for $58.99. Shipped. Next-day delivered. On a Sunday.
I'd say that unless you're planning to Jumpstart a Professional Cannabis Suppository Boutique (Cannabis University course 101-C), then $76 for the Magnetism Mixer set vs ~$1500 for the same functionality in Fisher Scientific quality is very ... practical.
However. Compromises are inevitable. The thin aluminum plate with an edge-mounted heating coil calls for a sophisticated PID controller. Most of the Instruction Sheet can be deciphered about half-way, good enough to ignore the rest. Try it. But that last sentence starts out promising, then after the comma, it turns ... poetic.
https://i.imgur.com/2gNK5eD.png
looney2nz
Research Geek, Mad Scientist
In case anyone is worried about oversimplified Temperature Control algorithms, come see the ultimate PID chenglish mind-fuck instructions for the mag stirrer hot plate that just arrived today via Amazon Prime.
https://i.imgur.com/OJUdeCF.jpg
Now, let's remember that a hot plate like the ThermoFisher Scientific SuperNuova+ model costs $935, not including the temperature feedback probe, and their stirbars are priced between $42 and $220 each.
My order started with 10 stirbars in sizes from 35x9mm down to 6x3mm, 10 for $10.99. Then a set of borosilicate beakers (5, 10, 25 ml) for $5.95 and, finally, the Numerical Show Constant Temperature Magnetism Mixer itself, for $58.99. Shipped. Next-day delivered. On a Sunday.
I'd say that unless you're planning to Jumpstart a Professional Cannabis Suppository Boutique (Cannabis University course 101-C), then $76 for the Magnetism Mixer set vs ~$1500 for the same functionality in Fisher Scientific quality is very ... practical.
However. Compromises are inevitable. The thin aluminum plate with an edge-mounted heating coil calls for a sophisticated PID controller. Most of the Instruction Sheet can be deciphered about half-way, good enough to ignore the rest. Try it. But that last sentence starts out promising, then after the comma, it turns ... poetic.
https://i.imgur.com/2gNK5eD.png
OFM!
Another reason I didn't use a hot plate stirrer in my last tests
fernand
Well-Known Member
In the end the "Magnetism Mixer" works OK with defaults, it will overshoot, hunt, take a while to stabilize. It's inevitable because the heating element is at the edge, the plate is too thin, and in addition the sensor thermometer isn't accurate, you have to calibrate against a credible thermometer and then use one of the menus to enter an offset. The heater will come on hot enough to burn yourself on. I don't even know if it's got control beyond on-off.
If you need to quickly reach and maintain a precise temp, forget it. So how much do you have to spend? Or are you willing to work around the limitations?
This is pretty crude gear. But for the money it's working OK for my needs (and the money). I use a pyrex dish with a base that covers much of the hot plate, and I use that for a water bath, that I check with a thermocouple and stir with a mag bar. I want 45 deg C to keep coconut oil liquid and to dissolve erls in it. After a while the water bath settles near that temp. The mag stirrer function works OK.
If you need to quickly reach and maintain a precise temp, forget it. So how much do you have to spend? Or are you willing to work around the limitations?
This is pretty crude gear. But for the money it's working OK for my needs (and the money). I use a pyrex dish with a base that covers much of the hot plate, and I use that for a water bath, that I check with a thermocouple and stir with a mag bar. I want 45 deg C to keep coconut oil liquid and to dissolve erls in it. After a while the water bath settles near that temp. The mag stirrer function works OK.
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Problem is, you got some brains behind that migraine.
Tell ya what. Here is a table of temperatures. Hope it shows
up, as it's a tricky thing with images hosted on imgur
I quoted a message from above after viewing the chart and somehow the whole chart itself was included in the post. Enjoy
Click the chart thumbnail and it will appear at full size. Click the full size and it will go back to being a thumbnail. I have no idea how I accomplished this. Before writing this post, I right-clicked on the icon representing the chart and selected "Open in a new window" and there it was!These temps are DEFINITELY at STP (standard temperature and pressure which is 1 atmosphere at sea level and 22 degrees centigrade). The BPs given precisely correlate with multiple other sources. Vacuum based BPs are way way lower because the vacuum lowers the BP of everything by a multiplier of (approximately) 0.1 to 0.01. Using even a shitty vacuum made with a venturi attachment for a sink faucet, water boils at about 30 deg C. Most other compounds do not have anywhere near the 85% of intermolecular hydrogen bonds as water does, which make its BP is very high compared to most compounds. Therefor the BP of cannabinoids, whether decarbed or not, will be much more significantly lowered than water.
Vacuum boiling points are mostly used when you are doing fractional distillation. Vacuum is used to depress the boiling points of whatever you are distilling so that the components do not degenerate during the vaporization phase. It also removes the oxygen so that the components will not oxidize.
If the Merck numbers in the chart were determined in a vacuum, then none of the mods we are using would ever work at normal atmospheric pressure
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looney2nz
Research Geek, Mad Scientist
I quoted a message from above after viewing the chart and somehow the whole chart itself was included in the post. Enjoy
These temps are DEFINITELY at STP (standard temperature and pressure which is 1 atmosphere at sea level and 22 degrees centigrade). The BPs given precisely correlate with multiple other sources. Vacuum based BPs are way way lower because the vacuum lowers the BP of everything by a multiplier of (approximately) 0.1 to 0.01. Using even a shitty vacuum made with a venturi attachment for a sink faucet, water boils at about 30 deg C. Most other compounds do not have anywhere near the 85% of intermolecular hydrogen bonds as water does, which make its BP is very high compared to most compounds. Therefor the BP of cannabinoids, whether decarbed or not, will be much more significantly lowered than water.
Vacuum boiling points are mostly used when you are doing fractional distillation. Vacuum is used to depress the boiling points of whatever you are distilling so that the components do not degenerate during the vaporization phase. It also removes the oxygen so that the components will not oxidize.
OK, @Gazaam I found the chart.
Where does it say that it's measured in standard temperature and pressure?
Hilarious that even at this late stage, you can just type in a symbol into a search engine and get a cogent response
. The symbol produced when you use a 'command-6' (Windows key-6 combo) is shown on one chart that I just pulled up, but I can't remember what the hell it stands for (chemistry was many decades ago). Can't type the meta-key into the editor as it jumps to another tab, have to look at the editor defaults, but that should be enough info to go on.The previous charts that have floated around, have all generally agreed on temp for boiling points, and from what I recall at least two of those charts explicitly referenced using the Merck standard (perhaps erroneously). ok, this chart shows both temp in C and F, but nothing relating to pressure (unless I'm having a serious brain fart!).
I understand the advantages of extraction in a vacuum, just want to have real world numbers for folks to relate to as they vaporize various compounds singly or in an ensemble.
thanks!
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