Advanced THC e-Juice / mods / tanks / coils / builds / recipes

Deleted Member 1643

Well-Known Member
I believe Gray Wolf may have discussed appropriate membrane materials for sub-micron filters on Skunk Pharm at one stage when he talks about cleaning up extracts.

Good memory! Graywolf recommends cellulose acetate in comments on salvaging moldy material. Cellulose acetate is hydrophilic, which seems to make sense for cannabinoids and probably some terpenes. Would it remove chlorophyll and other hydrophilic contaminants?
 
Deleted Member 1643,

herbivore21

Well-Known Member
Good memory! Graywolf recommends cellulose acetate in comments on salvaging moldy material. Cellulose acetate is hydrophilic, which seems to make sense for cannabinoids and probably some terpenes. Would it remove chlorophyll and other hydrophilic contaminants?
Lol I used to habitually sub-micron filter my solvent extracts to ensure that they were as clean as possible (I had some mold concerns with some material I came across from time to time from unknown sources). Now I know that you can solventlessly prevent and problems with mold (also pesticides although in that case, the water is acting as a solvent at least on the pesticides lol) - it's called bubble hash. Mold floats, resin sinks :D

Don't mess with various hydrophillic membrane materials and think they will all be good. You need to be very sure that your solution is not gonna take something with it from the membrane material in question - so stick with cellulose acetate which I can confirm have held up (I've even looked at membranes after use under a microscope to get an idea). Don't re-use syringe filters.

Looking at the filters that I have they are indeed cellulose acetate. I do not believe that this method will remove chlorophyll, and am firmly of the belief that if you are not experienced with isolation techniques that the only acceptable way to avoid chlorophyll pickup is to do the extraction quickly enough with the chosen solvent that you don't pull any out.

Even using sunlight to degrade the chlorophyll still leaves the decomposition byproducts in your solution (these are still unwanted components!) which will still = less total % of actives in your final product than if the chlorophyll was never there.
 
herbivore21,

Deleted Member 1643

Well-Known Member
That's what used in the video. Look carefully and you'll see CA 0.2 um on the filter - just like these. Could this be the secret of automatic "winterizing" without ethanol?
 
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Deleted Member 1643,

herbivore21

Well-Known Member
That's what used in the video. Look carefully and you'll see CA 0.2 um on the filter - just like these. Could this be the secret of automatic "winterizing" without ethanol?
Oh if that is the case, IME no. I have found that I can still winterize plenty of excess gunk out of an ethanol solution that I have already sub-micron filtered...
 
herbivore21,

Deleted Member 1643

Well-Known Member
So, winterizing is filtering out whatever precipitates in ethanol at -20C. What precipitates, exactly?

Guessing VE is using "winterizing" vaguely as cleaning up. Filtering through 0.2 um CA may be useful for making e-juice, but is it the same as wintering?
 
Deleted Member 1643,

herbivore21

Well-Known Member
So, winterizing is filtering out whatever precipitates in ethanol at -20C. What precipitates, exactly?

Guessing VE is using "winterizing" vaguely as cleaning up. Filtering through 0.2 um CA may be useful for making e-juice, but is it the same as wintering?
Couldn't tell you for certain on what is precipitated (I don't have a GC/MS on hand lol - one day!) except for what those who have written on the topic have said - which generally refers to lipids (fats) and waxes being removed with winterization. Winterization is broadly speaking, as you describe (ethanol with dissolved crude extract, freezing cold, filtration of whatever gunk is floating in the frozen solution).

Filtering through .2 micron cellulose acetate filters is IME demonstrably not the same as winterizing, given that if I take resin, dissolve it in ethanol, filter the solution through a .2 micron CA filter - I can then freeze the filtered solution (ie: winterize it) and still precipitate more gunk to filter out.
 
herbivore21,

Luigic81

Well-Known Member
Hi everyone! I'm new to the forum and to making my own oil.
I will be making my first batch this week. I will be using bho and vapeur. I plan to use 1 part vapeir to 1 part bho. My question is about how much flavoring to add? I know its a preference thing, but looking for a baseline to start at. I ordered some of the clean vape flavors. So how much of the clean vape flavoring should I try to add to the 1:1 vapeur/bho mix? Or should I Pre mix the flavor and vapeur so that the flavoring is part of that 1 parts of vapeur to my 1 part bho? Thanks in advance!
 
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Luigic81,

Vape Donkey 650

All vape, no smoke please.
Hey guyz... nice to see this thread still being bumped up occasionally.

I wanted to come back and give an update to my co2 oil in a large RTA coil project, with the eleaf MELO tanks, vaporesso cCell coils, and TC mods like the pico and cuboid mini.

Long story short: it was going along very well, until it wasn't going well anymore (leakage)

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So I retried, failed, went back to the drawing board for a while, picked a new tank and coil combo (Cubis pro mini), which I have been using for about 2 months now (several coil types), and I think I finally got it down! :clap::tup:

Read the end of the next post to see my final formula, or read through it all to learn of my struggle

my needs for my tank:
  • NON-LEAK tank and coils capable of feeding un-diluted co2 oil and similar thick juice, smaller size tank so less oil wasted to stickage
  • ceramic coil heads
  • temp control
My previous combo was doing great until nearly all the co2 oil leaked down, apparently from inside the juiced ceramic coil head, down into the bottom-fed air hole base / air adjustment where the coil screws into. It did not leak from the threads on the coil head, or any of the threads on the tank. All internal, coil to bottom tank-base leakage, through gravity, over a period of several weeks, apparently. This would happen whether I leave my mods standing up straight, or lying down flat. On 3 mods and tanks, over 6 fill-ups, it leaked 5/6 times :bang: Not wanting to repeat almost certain failure, I scraped up and reclaimed all the fresh, leaked oil and reviewed my options on the interwebs....

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I had seen the cubis tanks mentioned earlier here and they seemed like a good candidate the way the coil heads are top mounted, in a top-air intake / throttle part which is then screwed into a bottom glass cup / tank portion of the atty. Besides the silicon and metal 510 thread plug in the middle, there is no hole or path on the bottom of the tank for juice to flow out. Seems solid enough, so I bought a few of these tanks and various coils of theirs to try.

The default coils for the cubis failed for me, Ni, SS, RBA, adjustable juice, all of them sucked, because they are designed for glycerin type juices that are thin, these coils have pitifully small holes in the bottom of the coil to let juice into the wick inside. None of these coils would wick at all with my thick co2 oils. Some more oil wasted, I put the project on pause and scoured the interwebs some more...

ceramic-heating-wire-for-rba-rda-rta-rebuildable-atomizer-white-05-ohm-10-pcs.jpg
ceramic-heating-wire-for-rba-rda-rta-rebuildable-atomizer-white-05-ohm-10-pcs.jpg


I found some ceramic heaters like these, which are quite similar to the ceramic heaters on the vaporesso coils, but they are kanthal, so I can't temp control them. :mad: I found similar coils at many other chinese vendors, they either all were kanthal, or if they didn't say what metal, the customer service reps later replied they were kanthal, or didn't respond. :cuss: If any of you guys are aware of ceramic heaters like these for RBA's / drippers that do have TC-type wires like Ni, Ti, SS, etc, plz let me know! :nod:

Even spending hours browsing e-cig forums, lurking, searching, I could not find what I wanted. My needs are rather niche and specific, most vapers don't care for such details that I do. I was almost ready to give up, when I glanced at one of the many Divine Tribe ceramic donut atty's littering my desk. I'm a huge fan of these load-n-go type, mini e-nail, wax pen type attys and been using them for years. I had one atty that the case broke open by accident, with a fresh, working donut heater that I could pluck from inside it.

Why not use the ceramic donut as the heater? Unconventional, but it just might work :shrug: :sherlock:

So I went back to my pile of cubis parts, and picked the RBA coil because it's supposed to be rebuildable, with a threaded top to make removing coils and wicks easier, and a little screw-post on the side of the case for the negative lead wire. Silicon gasket and metal 510 pin for the positive wire as standard.

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I drilled a bunch of holes in the casing knowing I'd need it for oil flow, cleaned it up, then clumsily mounted a donut in there, tested it (yes! resistance reads!) and hastily plugged it into one of my cubis pro tanks already wet with co2 oil from earlier failed stock coils.

Refilled some more oil to make sure the donut was wet, and used some well known TC settings on the cuboid that I use for the donut when it's in the DT 2.5 casing, as normal: TCR 245, 25w, 390F. I actually started at lower temps and moved up, all the way to 430, which is uncomfortably high and close to combustion, but i was mostly getting crackling and gurgling, some flavor, but hardly any vape :uhh: Even with the tank half full

I wanted to avoid it, and hated to admit it, but the lack of any wick at this point was causing my poor vapor production. So once again, I clumsily screwed the tank open, removed the coil, screwed it open (sticky oily fingers yet again) and put a little dab o' organic cotton on top of the donut, re-installed, and tried again, swishing the tank and giving the cotton some time to wick up....finally....

success!!! vapor

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well, only kind of :rolleyes: Because the vapor was pretty meager still, just a little vape on long, 10-sec pulls. Even worse, the puffs had an odd, irritating, sensation of my throat being coated with crap. Like on no vape I've ever used. :mental: To remind u guys, I'm not a e-cig vaper, not a tobacoist, and I think I'm allergic to vaping glycerin-like substances, although I have vaped concentrates on cotton many times on convection vapes, but never on a conduction style like this. The harsh heat on the cotton must be emitting particulates irritating my throat... I can't use this...a full tank of oil that works now, but I don't want to use it. :bang: back to the drawing board again.....
 
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Vape Donkey 650

All vape, no smoke please.
still with me? the co2 tank odyssey continues. There is success at the end of this post, I promise :brow: :)

So at this point, I gained some satisfaction knowing the ceramic donut as a TC-capable heater can work in my tank, at least in theory. But the wick was my issue, at this point.

I recall reading either in this thread here, elsewhere in this forum, or another forum in my searching? :D about the readyXwick ceramic fiber wicks for RDA or RTA coil wicks. I did as much research as web searching could dig up, most of the sources from forums and readyX themselves. Apparently, baking the ceramic fibers in a kiln at very high heat for a long period makes this material safe and high-performing for wicking, supposedly, whereas NOT heat-curing them in this manner makes them very unhealthy as a material for vape wicks, somehow? :huh: (supposedly, the other commercial use for readyxwick is to insulate wires in cruise missiles :o demanding specs)

Maybe one of you guys is smart and can explain it to me, why these wicks are/aren't safe for vape wicks, because @fernand is still not sold on this concept, but good news still: the readyxwick worked for me in my coils :clap:

I took the RBA coil out (sticky fingers yet again) and removed the swollen cotton wad

ZTTFOjS.jpg


sigh...what a waste..probably 400mg of 70% thc oil stuck in there. not a total waste though. I will vape this wad on my arizer EQ or maybe one of my new DT 3.0 donuts

zak9whY.jpg


I like how the donut had no char or burned marks on it even though my repeated, high-temp tests to coax vape out of it, with the crappy cotton wad. Good job, temp control.

I then replaced it with a neat loop of the ceramic fiber, sitting right on top of the donut, (no pic for this part) coil back in again, swish, let the wick get wet, wait, repeat....

SUCCESS! ! ! finally :p :cool:

At 420-430F, 25w, TCR 245, I was now getting nice, tasty, smooth clouds of the CO2 oil, and no irritating sensation to go with the vape! I can take repeated hits on this tank, back to back, and at worst, it just makes my throat feel a little hot. And it does leave a slight sticky co2 residue on your lips and front teeth and mouthpiece, with repeated use. I can live with that, any tank will do that. The gurgling and spitting and clogging is hardly an issue with this build. The vaporessos had issues with all three, but now with the donut and readyxwick, I sometimes just get a comforting, quiet bubbling noise as the donut reaches full heat and is drawn on to make vape. :)

So this was all very nice at this point, but compared to my old setup, my vape production was still considerably less. Quality-wise, vapor is very very close to the excellent, tasty smooth (oil-leak inducing) coils from vaporesso. But I want MOAR of it :mad: haha... om-nom-nom gimme bigger vape haha

From a 10-sec puff of my new coil, this felt equal to a 4-6 sec puff on the vaporesso coils. I have 3 tanks planned in this project for 3 different strains and oil types, so I made immediate plans for the next coil head that I imagined from the beginning:

:evil:double donut coil ! ! ! :science: muahahaha...

I figured I have space to stuff 2 donuts into the big cubis RBA casings. But having worked with the smaller cubis BF coil casings, I also found those coils can fit a 7mm donut with tiny space to spare. The top-feeding oil path of the CUBIS tanks and the thick top of the RBA coils left me with a tiny, thin crack to squeeze my oil through to the bottom, which made loading a time-consuming chore. The skinny BF coils gave me a lot more space in this gap, so I used this kind for my double-donut coil. I drilled hella holes in this mofo for max-juice swishing, and I think these efforts paid off. :ko:

cucIRJe.jpg


Its hard to see, but it's there, 2 donut discs almost parallel and flat and level with the bottom of the coil. It was a tight squeeze in there, to also route 2 pairs of wires to the right spots and get the 510 pin closed tight, and then slip some strands of readyxwick also. It took many attempts and tries getting "atomizer short" and "atomizer low, check atomizer, " etc. on an empty test tank to confirm continuity on my double donut coils.

At this point in the project, with the single donut coil sitting proudly to the side, I started with a new tank and fresh oil (gorilla glue 4 co2): in the time passed during this project, joyetech released new CUBIS pro MINI 2ml tanks that work with the same coils and same functions, just shorter and smaller unlike the big 4ml regular ones. The 4mls are overkill for a gram of oil, and the minis have less surface for oil to stick on and not get vaped, so the new double donut coil went into one of these.

here's a video of me test-firing the double coil @ 18W (on a spare, empty tank without the wicks)
near the end you can kind-of see both coils glowing red, and how they are not at all level and parallel to each other


Ohmed in @ 0.30, used TCR 245, 30w, and 390F is a sweet spot for the co2 oil. Patiently let the oil wick up, swish swish, after a few light hits...

:o wow :o

finally getting what I want! BIG clouds....still smooth and tasty...no hint of burning or irritation. almost double sized clouds as my single donut coil! (duh! :D) To fetch the cloud that I would need 10 seconds to get with the single disc coil, my new double donut coil only needs 5-6 second pulls to match that. 10 second clouds with the 2x donuts are amazing. :haw: This made me so happy.....:razz:

In between many other vape projects, I got around to making a second double donut coil for another CUBIS pro MINI tank: this one eventually worked, but I got a bit over-enthusiastic with the wicking here.

I used this double donut coil to replace the single donut coil that was already working in the earlier tank. I tilted that tank to the side to let the oil collect to one side and try to avoid the new coil head dragging the existing oil or having that oil block the metal 510 pin on the bottom and block atomizer contact (i was having this problem alot)

1e4QEPu.jpg


The greedy, excessive wick sticking out was grabbed and dragged by the oil on the side, when it was screwed in. This pulled the wick out of its place in the coil and left it floating loose in the tank, not it's place or function. I had to remove the coil and re-wick it more modestly, without the readyX's sticking out, only tucked firmly in the coil. More wasted oil and sticky fingers again, and another re-fill, but the second double donut worked now :) just about as well as the first....

rinse, repeat, happy with this formula for these coil builds. I've had at least one of these cubis tanks sitting on my desk full of oil for over 2 months now, and that oil isn't moving anywhere it shouldn't, so I'll proclaim these tanks LEAK-FREE! at this point. :bowdown:I think as long as they are not over-filled, or stored in a lying flat, sideways position, or stored in a very hot car, (probably with those earlier 2 conditions), it will not leak. Just keep it standing up straight, don't do anything stupid, everything screwed in tight, no leaks! :tup:After my earlier experience, I don't think I can ever trust a tank with bottom-mounted, bottom-air fed coils.

I went and made a third double donut coil for myself, so I got 3 of these running on 3 eleaf picos now

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my latest, 3rd tank to get double-donutted: running "pure-cure" alcohol extracted, presumably artificially-terped' oil. This one is more flow-ey, less viscous than co2, but thicker than glycerin still. This guy needs to be set to make 430F instead of 390 for the big cloud, but it's still nice. This tank started the donut tank project with the cotton wick and larger RBA coil head before getting the final upgrade to double donut with readyX wick.

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This pico and cubis pro mini got the double donut second. It's running some sour diesel co2 oil. This tank found success as the single donut coil + readyxwick at first, and was later upgraded to duals.

DwEGTpz.jpg


And this tank and coil here has the honor of being my first successful double donut build, with the gorilla glue 4 oil. started from a fresh coil and tank, not a refill or a multi-swapped out coil build project like the other 2.
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So yes! That's where I'm at now. It's an idiot proof, perhaps-medical grade? vape that can deliver hundreds and hundreds of quality puffs on demand, until I need to recharge the cell, or refill the tank, and that's how I intend to use it. Click, puff, vape, be happy. :) Thanks for reading all this, I am chronically incapable of making short posts, but something like this should be detailed. I hope this will be interesting and useful to some other people. And even though I'm quite satisfied with the co2 tank project as it stands, I'm always open to suggestions and more improvements....for the next coil build....:sherlock: :science: the ultimate heater for my goals would still be a cylinder shaped ceramic heater intended for RBAs with a Ni or SS wire...but until I could source that.... vape on my friends! :wave:
 
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Deleted Member 1643

Well-Known Member
Cool posts @Vape Donkey 650! if you need thinner, you might consider using a tiny amount of MCT oil Also, tungsten might be another option for TC wire material in a cylindrical ceramic coil. How meaningful is TC setting when you're heating ceramic?
 

Vape Donkey 650

All vape, no smoke please.
Thanks :) I figure with my earlier posts, and a lack of any other threads emphasizing this kind of gear, this is still the best place?

In this project, the whole idea is to vape a pure, unadulterated, essential cannabis extract. Even if that makes it thicker and a little more challenging with this type of gear, viscosity is not an issue with this build. I'll credit the CUBIS tank design and my exuberant hole-drilling in the coil head case for the good juice flow. As it is, you can chain-toke 8 or a dozen hits, and it will keep on going, not getting wicked out or going dry. If you hold it upright and do 25 hits without delay, yes, that may make the puffs more wispy and empty, but the TC prevents it from burning, and with that kind of heavy usage, the whole tank acquires a warm glow which makes all the normally thick juice flow like water, just swish the tank back and forth a couple times, you're re-wicked, may the puffing continue! :luv: :spliff:

With thc concentrations around 60-70%+, who really needs to do 12 hits in a row anyways? :huh: (maybe someone?)

As for thinners and solvents, I have read your guys' formulas and posts with some interest and admiration, and I can think of many good reasons why someone would want to use a thinner or a solvent, but that's just not what I'm going for here. ;)

As for the TC, it's actually quite meaningful even with the ceramic heater. Actually, it's essential for my goals. It was implied in my project requiring TC that I will tolerate no combustion and minimal pyrolysis and active compound degradation. I've got a gram of 70% thc in that tank, so it only takes one burnt hit to ruin the taste, create tar and ash, and pollute my whole little pool of pristine oil with contaminants.

As you already know, @Accept, but many others still don't, (get with it people!) temp control on box mods can be quite easy and effective. If your mod has TC, and you're vaping with a TC compatible wire, why not use it? You may think the 30 or 40 watts or whatever you're using is not enough to combust on your build, and maybe it isn't for the first couple of seconds as your coil heats up. But if you hold the fire button down for a long hit, and if airflow is interrupted or reduced, or your air-throttle is set low, or if your wick gets dry, that coil is still getting hotter and hotter and will burn crap and pollute you. TC mods recognize the rise in coil resistance in real time and will module the wattage output to prevent the coil getting too hot and burning. Even if you stop drawing air, or your coil is dry. It can recognize this.


I was having a session with my cousin, and he wanted to hit my tank (he was tired and medicated and spaced out :\) and he asked how to use it. Easy, I said. You hold the button down and hit it, I hand him the mod.

He pulls the newbie mistake that he and so people many make with box mods or wax pens attys: he takes it in his hand, looking at it (not holding it to his mouth) and holds the button down as the coil heats up. These dual donuts heat up in under 3 seconds @ 30w.

Don't just hold the button there and look at it! Hit it you moron!

Eventually, after 5 seconds that seemed like an eternity, the co2 oil audibly bubbling in the tank, he took a pansy baby puff and held it in. :rolleyes: ugh:bang: This is why we can't have nice things!

Fortunately for me, TC!
The mod reduces power to like 0-3 watt if nobody is puffing it, no damage was done, besides a little terpene loss. If this was done on the tank in VW, my cousin would have RUINED my whole gram (or my coil at least) with a bunch of tar or worse.

As to if TC is meaningful on a ceramic heater, yes it is, I think I know what you mean. On our TC mods, there is no "ceramic" mode to set it to. These DT donuts have nichrome wires, not nickel. And TC mods are intended to control the temps of the coil wires, not secondary resistors like my ceramic donuts.

If you have a mod that supports TCR, you can 'temp control' just about any heater material that has a known rate of resistance rise. Even though the ceramic material throws those calculations off some, with trial-and-error, you can find a # that will match your coil's composition, even if the rate is not totally linear and matching temps at all ranges, you can dial it in for your preferred temp range, at least.

With alot of this nerd-ery and geeking on the DT thread, we've found the TCR # for the 7mm ceramic discs is around 220-245. Even with the different thermal modeling of my donuts being in a tank rather than a ceramic cup, I was pleasantly surprised to find the same settings worked in this project. :clap:

I have never heard of a vape coil using tungsten, it probably can be controlled with TC? I'm happy with this build now, but if I could actually source cylinder-shaped ceramic heaters intended for RBAs with a non-kanthal wire, I would try it.

sigh...another essay...can't help myself...sorry guys :D
 
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Vape Donkey 650

All vape, no smoke please.
ha...I just come to answer a couple simple questions...and I spit all that out. :o

let me counter-balance all that text with some eye candy :brow: i found these pics in the back history of my phone's pics when I was cleaning out old stuff, it shows a few steps of my tanks odyssey that should have been in the earlier posts.

HwyQTsI.jpg

This pic shows how the oil leaked through INTERNALLY on my vaporesso coils, down to the bottom of the air-intake. Notice how the threads where the coil head screws into is clean! Oil or juice isn't supposed to be down there! :bang: It was a huge PITA to recover that oil, and some was wasted when the base got iso bathed. :(

5v2RgJ9.jpg

I said in 5 / 6 fillups with the MELO tanks and cCell coils, I had leaks. Well, this one the one mysterious tank fillup that did not leak. IDK why the juice on this tank decided to stay in the coil and the others didn't, i was using them just the same way.

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this is what I wanted to see....clean empty air intake on the bottom part of the tank. the threads where the coil goes in are clean.

now switch over to the CUBIS tanks which are working for me...
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This was my first truly successful donut coil build...single donut with readyXwick in the larger cubis RBA head, and larger CUBIS Pro tank. (I'm using the mini now) Although the extra room inside that big coil casing gives you room to work with, it made the little crack in the top of the tank where juice must flow through and down into the tank very minimal, and made re-fills a hassle. The standard BF coils I used in the later builds are more tight on the inside and harder to assemble, but the donuts still fit in, and the smaller coil head casing gives a bigger gap in the top portion of the tank to make refilling easier.

1e4QEPu.jpg

reposting this: see how the coil head is skinnier near the top compared to the other.

HySVUMP.jpg


and this is that "neat little knot" of readyXwick that I laid on top of my single donut coil which was working quite well for me, but I just wanted moar vape and had to do double donuts. ;) I cut the wick short before installing this, obviously.


pure cure...the oil in one of my tanks. it's pretty nice :tup:
img
 
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Vape Donkey 650

All vape, no smoke please.
Thank you, sir. (bows)

It was quite a journey and learning experience for me; I wish I could have had the guidance of some e-cig veterans to help me avoid the pitfalls and mistakes along the way:doh:

It may be idiosyncratic to my picky vape needs, but hopefully this build can inform or be useful to others, or incubates some good ideas for others......:sherlock:
 
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Deleted Member 1643

Well-Known Member
I have never heard of a vape coil using tungsten, it probably can be controlled with TC? I'm happy with this build now, but if I could actually source cylinder-shaped ceramic heaters intended for RBAs with a non-kanthal wire, I would try it.

Yes, read reports of successful TC with Vapeston. Krixus is another and is rewickable. Vapeston, at least, is broadly compatible with other tanks.

Just thinking - if you thin a little, maybe you won't need to drill out your rebuildables.

MCTs are fun. Last night, took four hours to come on (like a truck) after ingesting 1 teaspoon mystery trim extract. Lying in bed, eyelids peeled back, staring at ceiling. Good times. Must be a sativa.
 
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looney2nz

Research Geek, Mad Scientist
Thank you, sir. (bows)

It was quite a journey and learning experience for me; I wish I could have had the guidance of some e-cig veterans to help me avoid the pitfalls and mistakes along the way:doh:

It may be idiosyncratic to my picky vape needs, but hopefully this build can inform or be useful to others, or incubates some good ideas for others......:sherlock:

Well, you jumped in at an opportune moment. I was wondering about these tanks, but had read the various issues and stuck with the single session v3. May try to build one of these when I'm feelin' more human.

Cool stuff!
 

Vape Donkey 650

All vape, no smoke please.
Yes, read reports of successful TC with Vapeston. Krixus is another and is rewickable. Vapeston, at least, is broadly compatible with other tanks.

Just thinking - if you thin a little, maybe you won't need to drill out your rebuildables.

MCTs are fun. Last night, took four hours to come on (like a truck) after ingesting 1 teaspoon mystery trim extract. Lying in bed, eyelids peeled back, staring at ceiling. Good times. Must be a sativa.

Nice....I have taken a peek at your MCT thread also. To be clear, I'm not totally opposed to glycerins, solvents or mixers, or anything like that. It's just that I don't want to vape it. I used to buy lots of glycerin tinctures at the clubs and I was a big fan of them. I like how you can just drop a little bit under your tongue or in your mouth (any mucosa) and feel the effects very quickly and even get a little taste of the flowers or concentrates that made it. I think the relative high cost and lack of medicinal compounds per $ compared to buying grams of BHO or co2 oils made me stop with that.

A friend and me have even made a couple of big batches (1 quart at a time) of tinctures with blue dream flowers and plain vegetable glycerin a couple of times, years back, and it was a rather successful endevour. We even tried vaping it on one of those crappy little CE4 style tanks and a simple 510 battery (that was top of the line in 2012) and it had a little touch of flowery flavor and medicating effect, but not much really. I doubt the cannabinoid concentrations would be much over 5% and I shortly realized that the vast majority of the thick clouds we were blowing out was glycerin, not cannabis, and that it started to irritate my throat with continued use...(either the cotton wick, the glycerin, or the trace combustion from the unregulated vape pen)

Besides that little vape experiment, we just ended up eating / drinking the rest of our shares of the glycerin over a long period, so that's why it was a success. :nod:

Im curious about the MCT oil though...I have an ever-growing silicon jar of reclaim oil that I've scraped from my DT donuts, and I don't know what to do with it (don't wanna dab it)

Maybe I can dissolve it with MCT or something like that and apply it with droppers under my tongue? If you infuse MCT oil with activated cannabinoids, can it be absorbed quickly like that, or only slowly, through the gut, edible style? :uhh:

But anyways...even if you aren't trying to vape an un-mixed, runny concentrate in a tank, or aren't trying to do it with a ceramic coil head, I think there can be 2 more general take-aways from my project for others:

  • the CUBIS (pro, mini) series of tanks can be a reliable, leak-free, high-performance RTA for a variety of juices, oils and consistencies
  • no matter what style of box-mod vaping you are doing, you can benefit greatly by using temp control with your coil: prevents dry burns, conserves juice, maximizes flavor and coil head life span, and minimizes impurities and carcinogens.



Well, you jumped in at an opportune moment. I was wondering about these tanks, but had read the various issues and stuck with the single session v3. May try to build one of these when I'm feelin' more human.

Cool stuff!

Wondering what kind of issues you've heard about the cubis'es? :huh:

To put this into context for you guys, I love my new donut tank vapes, but they are not my primary or favorite vape system....far from it.. maybe 4th or 5th overall, and 2nd favorite for concentrates?

My DT donuts are my main, go-to vape for a serious dab session, with any form of dab-able concentrate: they tend to make bigger clouds, a little more tasty, free-er airflow, and it more naturally adapts to rigs and bubblers. The biggest hassle is that you have to repeatedly reload them and occasionally clean them (oh boo-hoo! :D)

Sometimes I don't want to use up a pristine, freshly loaded DT donut bowl for a quick little nibble of vape, so the tanks come in handy for those times. I'm finding myself using these tanks during

  • driving
  • walking around doing shopping
  • at the home-game poker table
  • in the kitchen when i'm cooking
  • at friends' houses
  • going out of the house for a jog or exercise
  • while working on or cleaning other vapes

I'm also using the load-n' go donuts during some of those times, but the tank is allowing me to keep on vaping without having to do anything where i would have had to do a few donut reloads otherwise. not easy to do while cruising down the freeway, when the dealer button comes to you or it's your turn to act on the poker table, or when you're trying to stir pots and chop veggies at the same time :mental::uhh:

I'm happy that the tanks are allowing me to make quality, satisfying, clean tasty vape to plug the gaps left by my other vapes, but also being potent enough to stand on their own, if needed.

Be it pre-filled, disposable tanks with hi-ohm resistances, anything with a bare wire and cotton wick, or any substance diluted or mixed, i was not satisfied with what was on the market. Apparently, I had to (partly) make it myself to get what I wanted. ;)
 
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Deleted Member 1643

Well-Known Member
Im curious about the MCT oil though...I have an ever-growing silicon jar of reclaim oil that I've scraped from my DT donuts, and I don't know what to do with it (don't wanna dab it)

Maybe I can dissolve it with MCT or something like that and apply it with droppers under my tongue? If you infuse MCT oil with activated cannabinoids, can it be absorbed quickly like that, or only slowly, through the gut, edible style? :uhh:

IME, MCT extract is absorbed slowly through the gut. Add to coffee first thing for a mid-morning boost, drizzle on popcorn late to stay up all night. Seems to be about all it's good for (can't even cook with it).

PG extract, on the other hand, gives quicker absorption. Still, not a viable inhalation alternative for me. Filtered a bit through 0.2 um cellulose acetate and vaped. Tastes burnt, little effect.

Same, unsolved problem with second-rate material. Maybe hexane-brine in a fume hood, a la Skunk Pharm? Running out of easy options.
 
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Deleted Member 1643,

Deleted Member 1643

Well-Known Member
Sleepy thread. Need a break from the day's fresh horrors.

FTureKt.jpg


New Atty! :rockon:

The very limited production Achilles Dual by Alexandr Bozhko. Reading 0.1 Ohms with a micro @Filhote build. This is nic juice, however. Tasty lemonade with whole tobacco alkaloids. Soon to be a thing of the past.

Build works well with double-strength nic juice. AVG on second coil. Maybe best flavor with good air flow.

Why nic juice, you ask? Because this is my entire stash. Lil' Lady has matured.

4Rxqa2F.jpg
 

Filhote

Well-Known Member
@Accept at what settings did your @Filhote coil work well? Last weeks i prefer many times a single coil build with 60 watt or lower. Mostly my mod work with a SS316l 22ga (.2 Ohm) dual coil with a PG/PEG - concentrate base.
 
Filhote,

awalkerphoenix

New Member
Hey fellow tokers. Somewhat noob here with the tank mods as well as THC E-Juice. I've graduated from prefilled to clearos on 510 pens. I finally upgraded to a JoyeTech Evic VTwo Mini with a Cubis head (
)

I have been vaping this E-Juice: http://natureswaydelivery.com/index.php/supersilverhaze-807

I have been using the 4 coils that came with the kit. The first one I used (of course I don't recall which one) worked great. The second one I burned on the first hit. I'm on the 3rd coil now (0.25 30-70W) and just having the hardest time. Some good puffs, some gross ones, rarely tasting that good.

I have been trying to educate myself the best I can, especially reading this thread, but honestly am too ignorant to the math and science of it all (putting a bowl in a bong for so many years was so easy!). Can anyone help me get a better understanding so I can get a better vape? What coil would work best with this mix? Suggestions on temp and wattage?

Thanks dudes!

 

Deleted Member 1643

Well-Known Member
@Accept at what settings did your @Filhote coil work well? Last weeks i prefer many times a single coil build with 60 watt or lower. Mostly my mod work with a SS316l 22ga (.2 Ohm) dual coil with a PG/PEG - concentrate base.

Used a build similar to the above with last drops of concentrate in PG/PEG. 1.5 mm SS316L 24 AWG coils. The current build is 0.085 Ohms. Good results at 20 J and 405 F. Still loving the micro-coils!
 
Deleted Member 1643,
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Reactions: Filhote

OldOyler

Fire it again. I can still find the ground.
Hey fellow tokers. Somewhat noob here with the tank mods as well as THC E-Juice. I've graduated from prefilled to clearos on 510 pens. I finally upgraded to a JoyeTech Evic VTwo Mini with a Cubis head (
)

I have been vaping this E-Juice: http://natureswaydelivery.com/index.php/supersilverhaze-807

I have been using the 4 coils that came with the kit. The first one I used (of course I don't recall which one) worked great. The second one I burned on the first hit. I'm on the 3rd coil now (0.25 30-70W) and just having the hardest time. Some good puffs, some gross ones, rarely tasting that good.

I have been trying to educate myself the best I can, especially reading this thread, but honestly am too ignorant to the math and science of it all (putting a bowl in a bong for so many years was so easy!). Can anyone help me get a better understanding so I can get a better vape? What coil would work best with this mix? Suggestions on temp and wattage?

Thanks dudes!
Peace aw!

I hadn't actually noticed myself, this thread is for advanced configurations of rigs and ejuice, etc.

Maybe ask the same question over in Portable vaporizers? Here's the main area: http://fuckcombustion.com/forums/portable-vaporizers.39/

Or you could do a search on your model here on FC (search engine is pretty decent), there may already be a thread in there, I did a quick visual scan while at the link I gave you but nothing registered.

Peace and good vaping, looks like a nice unit!

:peace:
 
OldOyler,

Deleted Member 1643

Well-Known Member
AVG in a tank! :tup:

XskQFQW.jpg


This is the "Revolver" tank atop venerable SX mini. No longer made, but may still be able to find one or similar. It has two separate chambers - a beginner-friendly alternative for the method of @Filhote. On the left is 1g QWET oil (from the gal a few posts back :luv:) plus 0.5ml PEG400, 3.5ml PG. On the right, AVG. The knurled ring lets you select which chamber to vape from - or combine them both! :brow: The idea was to pack two different flavors of nic juice.

Vaping from only the chamber with oil in PEG/PG produces familiar, less-than-pleasant experience. Switching to both tanks, 50% AVG overall, produces smooth, flavorful, thoroughly enjoyable experience! Prefer RDA, obviously, but this should be popular at parties.
 
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Filhote

Well-Known Member
My new setup: The TrinityV3tronix with two chamber juice well. It works perfect with the 22awg ss316L coil. The white one is a zero nic juice 70/30 with cream chocolate flavor. The other one is my concentrate pg-peg juice.

Rm5edT9.jpg
 
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