smatchimo55
Well-Known Member
ive only "needed" to rebuild my coil twice in months, when i snap them. or tweak it too much when scraping reclaim.
i rebuilt my coils every other day until i started enjoying the hits
Advanced E-cig users and oil/wax, how-to "one-hitter-quitter"
- Thread starter TrueNorthStar
- Start date
ive only "needed" to rebuild my coil twice in months, when i snap them. or tweak it too much when scraping reclaim.
i rebuilt my coils every other day until i started enjoying the hits
fernand
Well-Known Member
So can you lead us by the hand? I see a genesis type atty with a fat coil wire and a rolled up 400 stainless steel mesh for a wick. So does it wick melted wax? from where? is there a container below like for an e-cig genisis? or just enough to dab on and around the coil?
smatchimo55
Well-Known Member
gotta read the thread. everythings been tried and summarized and done again, the thread is huge. the info is within. delve deeper, padawan.
beatdigger
New Member
Looking at some various atomizers on eBay... the Nimbus V3 for example looks like it will fit a standard 510 battery. Will it? Considering I already have a 510 battery from my Medi-Puff pen, I just thought I'd check.
The one thing I do like about my pen is that it's super stealth coming in at about 6 inches long and smaller in diameter than a dime. Looking at all these custom builds, they look larger and heavier and less stealthy.
When I really think about it, I'd probably be totally happy with my little pen if the replacement atomizers were .99¢ as opposed to $9.99. I'm going through these things like wildfire.
The reason I was asking how long between wick rebuilds is because mine seem to get black and gummed up and I wonder if they are even absorbing anything at that point. Does that happen to you also on your custom builds? If so do you just roll with it? Is that what a properly seasoned wick is supposed to look like? Will better (more pure) wax burn cleaner leaving less black stuff behind? So far I've had 4 or 5 different waxes and some crumble and it all seems to leave behind a bunch of resin/burnt wax whatever that stuff is I've been scraping up and smoking lol.
The one thing I do like about my pen is that it's super stealth coming in at about 6 inches long and smaller in diameter than a dime. Looking at all these custom builds, they look larger and heavier and less stealthy.
When I really think about it, I'd probably be totally happy with my little pen if the replacement atomizers were .99¢ as opposed to $9.99. I'm going through these things like wildfire.
The reason I was asking how long between wick rebuilds is because mine seem to get black and gummed up and I wonder if they are even absorbing anything at that point. Does that happen to you also on your custom builds? If so do you just roll with it? Is that what a properly seasoned wick is supposed to look like? Will better (more pure) wax burn cleaner leaving less black stuff behind? So far I've had 4 or 5 different waxes and some crumble and it all seems to leave behind a bunch of resin/burnt wax whatever that stuff is I've been scraping up and smoking lol.
smatchimo55
Well-Known Member
Yea i still ran into problems with dirty wicks even with custom builds. thing about these is they run much hotter because of the bigger more powerful battery. atty's might fit on the ego pen, but any decent coil you build would over-draw on those tiny batteries, making an unsafe situation.
I use SS mesh in my wicks and have a hard time finding anything else because i havea so many negative experiences with silica.
After 3 or 4 tiems you load your pen, try doing a dry burn after you stop getting effective hits from it, burn off all the extra stuff. after that you might need to give your battery a fresh charge and lemme know if it helps.
to do a dry burn just hold the button with all the top caps off and watch it burn it self out for 10 seconds; do this a couple times.
MTBerVAPEer
ibikeivape
I am like famous here for that "jibba jabba" statement. speaking of jibba I have a mech mod another rda and mesh coming in the mail. but why I am posting is because I was hoping any of you might be familiar with the seego type b or c which I use currently for concentrates. I am concerned about the white coils. I normally use enough oil that it doesn't go dry but ive never seen kanthal turn white. I can post pictures once I get everything else in the mail and do one mega post
thanks sorry for the jabba
thanks sorry for the jabba
smatchimo55
Well-Known Member
mine used to get some weird ash build up that was off-white too. I used to use teh seego all the time, now i slang em on ebay (they arent selling btw lmao)
and by the by:
http://www.fasttech.com/products/1/10007524/1646600-glass-dry-content-atomizer
http://www.fasttech.com/products/1411/10004782/1639500
and by the by:
http://www.fasttech.com/products/1/10007524/1646600-glass-dry-content-atomizer
http://www.fasttech.com/products/1411/10004782/1639500
arrr
Well-Known Member
Have you tried to rebuild those atomizers? I would buy in a second if I could use my own wire and wick.
smatchimo55
Well-Known Member
i havent myself, when i used to break them and pick at em i thought the leads needed to be soldered. could be wrong though.
i really dont know why someone would prefer this to a 6 dollar trident clone that was made to be rebuilt though.
i really dont know why someone would prefer this to a 6 dollar trident clone that was made to be rebuilt though.
MTBerVAPEer
ibikeivape
I cant say for sure. but usually replaceable heads and be rebuilt, but I have rebuilt my seego vhit type b coils. even removed the funnel on the replaceable head. had a glass globe was going to rebuild them but threw the thing away. it is just like doing a protank head rebuild though
one thing to keep in mind is that little insulator a wire can work its way through it and short. it hasn't happen to me yet but that grommet does look cut up.
DabComa
Stuck in Dab Coma
It could be rebuildable , I've rebuilt my reg attys for my protank, vivinova, and vape ape... Problem is that grommet, and the head size limiting factor. Everything is harder to work with because it's so much smaller and there is way less room for error... Making it real easy to short out...
I do like the glass attachment I've been waiting for glass blowers to finally catch on and start making glass pieces with the right sized hole to slide in all these vape ape / Dr dabbler glass globe pen clones into , I'm sure there's a huge market out there just waiting to delve into such attachments.
I do like the glass attachment I've been waiting for glass blowers to finally catch on and start making glass pieces with the right sized hole to slide in all these vape ape / Dr dabbler glass globe pen clones into , I'm sure there's a huge market out there just waiting to delve into such attachments.
heyho, following this thread some time now, nice thinking going on here.
recently received a glassbulbatomizer from fasttech and they are rebuildable, very easy actually, no screwing.
they work ok id say but i dont have much to compare to. the thing that bothers me the most, but could probably been worked around is that, the material melts when put on the coil into it but also down into the bowl, where it stays unvaped and has to be manually brought back up to the coil. apart from that i think the bowl could work out nice with some tweaks, future for me tho.
kingtut106
Well-Known Member
Where can I find good o-rings that would fit on my patriot rba (22mm)
fernand
Well-Known Member
What I don't understand is how people are working these nic vape coils or skillets. What happens to me is material burns on the wire and the rest melts down into the cup base. On a big hot piece of glass or titanium there's no time to burn. These little coils seem all wrong. If they at least sat in the bottom of a funnel they'd be better. I guess I don't have the patience to read all the threads. Can someone just please tell me one thing: can a concentrate that's a wax at room temp actually wick upstream into a silica fiber wick? a rolled SS wick? Thank you!
arrr
Well-Known Member
All the cheap RDA have a chrome plated brass internal posts and honestly I do not really want plated chrome near my concentrate. Also, what if when i am placing a dab on my coil i nick/chip the plated chrome. I guess i am being a little paranoid but i don't know.
I am in the market for a cheap (fully stainless steel) RDA to pair with my MBK-TS and soon to be Nemesis (have one on order just waiting for my vape mail).
edit: when i say fully stainless i mean the inside of the atomizer.
edit #2: @funkyjunky and @DabComa you should post a guide on how to rebuild the bulb atomizer. I know @BLAZING OG tried it a while back but said he couldn't rebuild them. See post #306 in this thread. http://fuckcombustion.com/threads/various-e-cig-type-vaporizers.5179/page-13
Last edited:
beatdigger
New Member
^ this ^
DabComa
Stuck in Dab Coma
Wax/oil can't be wicked... Meaning you can't use any form of wick to move it from point a of storage to point b of burning without some form of outside influence, this could be diluting it in pg, but not very effective. For best results your best off placing a small amount directly on the coil... And then pressing the button once maybe twice BREIFLY in order to prime the oil evenly across the coil. This method will produce the best results.
I don't really have a camera good enough to take a video of rebuilding the globe atty, but I suppose I could try once I get some more 32g wire... I'm out and it's the largest size wire that will fit through the ceramic bowl for the atty, I only have 28g right now so it'll have to wait a few days.
I don't really have a camera good enough to take a video of rebuilding the globe atty, but I suppose I could try once I get some more 32g wire... I'm out and it's the largest size wire that will fit through the ceramic bowl for the atty, I only have 28g right now so it'll have to wait a few days.
arrr
Well-Known Member
Just ordered this https://www.fasttech.com/products/1624300 they claim it has stainless steel internal posts.
DabComa
Stuck in Dab Coma
I got the Igo-w as well... It works amazing and is easy as pie to work with. Once you set your coil up right and find the right height from the deck, you shouldn't notice a whole lot of left over after a pack... Once I pack mine by the next pack my deck is clean with no gunk.
I had to drill the existing air holes to 1/16 th, easy as pie with a 2$ titanium bit from home depot. Your tastes may differ, but I wouldn't do anything non reversible until you've tested performance at least a day for ya.
MTBerVAPEer
ibikeivape
hey look up any rebuild video on youtube. more specifically if you have a bulb style or one with a replaceable head youre going to want to search video on rebuilding protank heads because they are similar.
if you have an rda and make your own coils there is a guys channel named rip trippers cant remember if has been brought up. he does tons of builds on mostly rdas but the basic coil design is what you want.
the website doesn't state that the posts are stainless. it actually says minor parts may not be SS.
which they probably are. you wont even notice honestly.
I use to be skeptical about the dangers of chrome plated brass I got a nimbus clone from FT, some SS mesh from ebay today copied a rip trippers video (partly) made a bitchin dab pen setup on my vamo v5.
flavor outstanding. no metallic taste. no metal chips. single coil, 2.2ohm 14watts
soak it in alcohol once in awhile.
arrr
Well-Known Member
@MTBerVAPEer I do not own a bulb atomizer but I probably would buy one if they could be easily rebuilt. As stated above a member who has rebuilt other cart/clearos said he was not successful in rebuilding the bulb atomizer. Thus I suggested if others have successfully rebuilt a bulb atomizer show us or tell us how as I as well as others are interested.
Also if you look at the discussion section for the Igo-W https://www.fasttech.com/forums/1624300/t/1182831/stainless-steel-posts. Suffie (fast tech staff) said the internal posts are stainless steel. Cant wait till this arrives so I can test it out.
Also if you look at the discussion section for the Igo-W https://www.fasttech.com/forums/1624300/t/1182831/stainless-steel-posts. Suffie (fast tech staff) said the internal posts are stainless steel. Cant wait till this arrives so I can test it out.
ill try explaining:
rebuilding a bulbstyle atomizer from ft:
basically one just pulls out the center pin on the bottom that makes the connection with the battery. after removing the rubber ring one can pull out the coil from the top.
there will be 3 holes, the middle one for air and the two on the sides for the wires. one of them has a tiny tube in it to avoid short cutting. this little tube is probably the reason why some wires are suitable and some are not (diameter that can go through that tubing, i have only the standard wire from fasttech).
the hard part is to get the wire of the fresh coild into those tiny holes again, but with some skill it can be done without too much hassle.
steps:
1. remove center pin and rubber ring
2. pull out coil
3. insert wires from new coil into holes
4. fit in rubber ring, insulated wire goes through the rubber ring, the other one not.
5. put in pin and cut wires
done
if wished i can try making pics, but i doubt my cam will be able to provide accurate resolution
rebuilding a bulbstyle atomizer from ft:
basically one just pulls out the center pin on the bottom that makes the connection with the battery. after removing the rubber ring one can pull out the coil from the top.
there will be 3 holes, the middle one for air and the two on the sides for the wires. one of them has a tiny tube in it to avoid short cutting. this little tube is probably the reason why some wires are suitable and some are not (diameter that can go through that tubing, i have only the standard wire from fasttech).
the hard part is to get the wire of the fresh coild into those tiny holes again, but with some skill it can be done without too much hassle.
steps:
1. remove center pin and rubber ring
2. pull out coil
3. insert wires from new coil into holes
4. fit in rubber ring, insulated wire goes through the rubber ring, the other one not.
5. put in pin and cut wires
done
if wished i can try making pics, but i doubt my cam will be able to provide accurate resolution
DabComa
Stuck in Dab Coma
Exactly what he said above.... As I stated in a previous post you must have 32 or smaller (34, 36, etc etc) to fit through the holes in the ceramic bowl, and the positive line... Since it runs the same route and touches the same housing as the negative line must be insulated with either the provided tube or electrical tape or it will just short and the current will totally skip the coil. This is why I say it's harder to build then an RBA which is meant to be rebuilt with ease.
Of course if one were to find insulating the positive too difficult one could cheat by sending the positive lead through the center airhole, but this may result in a less structurally sound build.
Of course if one were to find insulating the positive too difficult one could cheat by sending the positive lead through the center airhole, but this may result in a less structurally sound build.