Advanced E-cig users and oil/wax, how-to "one-hitter-quitter"

2clicker

Observer
here is another device that is claiming all wire temp control...funny name - ass solo... lol

question ? anyone try a stove top build it seems like it would handle bho awesome..

http://www.ijoycig.com/a/jingdiananli/Asolo/2015/0528/138.html

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this MFG has a thread going on another forum. the locals there have been quite harsh due to believing the company has belittled them, but i feel like they just misinterpreted them. anyway, they have their work cut out for them that is for sure.

The Evic w/TC and the Alpha Centauri are working fantastic together for me!!! :rockon:

nice! how do you feel the wick is... well... wicking? do you find any oil that drips off and onto the deck?

Even after figuring it out, this is still super helpful. It would be really nice to find a needle that is partially split lengthwise. Kind of like an old springless clothespin.

I get back to this thread every few months and I was interested to hear about the TC devices this time. Too bad I just bought a new itaste vv v4 a few weeks ago. Are there any smaller pocket sized TC devices yet? I know I am burning my wax more often than I would like.

The biggest problem with the ribbon is getting it to hold its shape. Because its so thin, it bends like small wire, but is lower resistance.

what resistance are you after? if you want low resistance just get some 24g or 26g kanthal. and wrap short coils. you can get real low doing that.

and i know what you mean about the split pin idea. i considered making a jig of some sort, but this needle i have is perfect. i never got around to it.




@ArchVape... some questions after having watched your video.

one... i see that you were set at 500deg and 30W... are you still running that combo? does the ce

two... what were you watching on tv?
 

Joel W.

Deplorable Basement Dweller
Accessory Maker
nice! how do you feel the wick is... well... wicking? do you find any oil that drips off and onto the deck?

I try to only load what I want to hit at the time and still have wet coils when I am done. Not much has a chance to drip off unless I leave it on its side when hot or in the sun.

I am still playing with the setting/temps but I seem to get more splatter at lower temps with the dual coil AC. I think I am up to 500-520 degrees now and getting good vapor. TC seems solid as there is a big differences in temps. I need to ISO the top from earlier use to be able to judge splatter yet (I broke my glass globe), I was too eager to get testing it tonight and forgot to clean it. So far it works well.
 
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ArchVape

Princess of the Biscotti Republic
@2clicker Yes with ti i like to run it @500F/ 30 watts. Get very good cloud sizes. I really like how the FC2000 wick + ti wire holds the wax and it actually wicks. I beleive everything i notice joel W notice too.

I was watching High School DxD season 3 a japanese anime ecchi harem series lol. About a dude that gets super powers by sucking on Tit.
 
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2clicker

Observer
@2clicker Yes with ti i like to run it @500F/ 30 watts. Get very good cloud sizes. I really like how the FC2000 wick + ti wire holds the wax and it actually wicks. I beleive everything i notice joe W notice too.

I was watching High School DxD season 3 a japanese anime ecchi harem series lol. About a dude that gets super powers by sucking on Tit.

incredible... that is where my super powers come from!

ok im off to rip another dab and get some super powers. sorry if thats TMI...:brow:
 

growinsmoke

Active Member
what resistance are you after? if you want low resistance just get some 24g or 26g kanthal. and wrap short coils. you can get real low doing that.

I was only going for 1.2-1.5. My first 30ga coil was 1.3 so i went with it. I was just starting a short t-break, so I have only taken a couple rips, but I was very impressed. It heats up a lot faster than my stainless wicked coil, and tastes very clean.
 

2clicker

Observer
@Joel W. @ArchVape...

i have found that with a .2ohm Ti coil, that my preferred settings are 570deg at 45 watts.

i know it seems high in temp, but my dabs are not burning. and they are milky! supposedly users who have an Evic VT and other TC devices, are reporting that the Evic runs a bit cooler than the others. and that the temp must be set higher to produce the same vape compared to the others.
 

Joel W.

Deplorable Basement Dweller
Accessory Maker
I have to lock my ohms cold on the evic with the ac at room temp and then 80% of the time it works sweet. When too hot it just switches to power mode.

I have not run hotter than 520f @ 36w because it's producing plenty of clouds and it's very efficient. The taste is amazing!

If I drop to 510f the vapor drops off noticeably. @ 530f it seemed to switch to power mode more often. I might have to wrap my own to get lower ohms.

My money says this won't even be an issue soon with all the newer tc mods coming out.
 

2clicker

Observer
check out this review. he gets into how accurate the temps are compared to the DNA40 and YiHi TC. looks like the Evic must be run hotter to actually reach your desired temp.

btw... this is a long review. scroll through until you see charts start popping up.


about it jumping out of TC mode... i have yet to experience this. i never lock my resistance and never get burnt hits.

i dont understand why some say the resistance has to be locked to control temp.
 

Joel W.

Deplorable Basement Dweller
Accessory Maker
I had error messages saying replace right coil/left coil new? When I first got the evic. @ArchVape suggested locking in the ohms and that got me going.

I just tried it several times with ohms unlocked and it worked just fine. Hmmm.

Man, I need to wait till after work to test stuff in the future. Ohh boy... :)
 
Joel W.,
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fernand

Well-Known Member
Haven't been posting, but haven't stopped trying, for the kingdom if I can ...

This sort of setup has been the best one hitter for me. 15 turns 28 gauge kanthal A1 onto a 7/64 drill bit. Measures 2.3 ohms. The oxidized stainless steel roll serves as a catcher, or even a reservoir. On a standard 3.7 volt mechmod, it takes 30 seconds to reach a dull red max temp, around 600 degrees F. By then all the erl fractions have gradually distilled into me head. No burning - because the erl meets a large surface that is gradually heating up. A wire that pops yellow hot slices through the erl and burns it at the wire, without even warming the rest.


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This rig has been good for lazy Northern California afternoon hemp tastings. The coil has just been torched and dry burned clean, the next erl sample is being applied. There's no reclaim. Every portion boils off completely.

Tanks and cartos are another story, they all have a place, as long as we don't burn/waste/toxify the erl.

OF COURSE: the next phase is gonna be perfect temp control so we don't have to worry about burning any material or any wick. I'm just not sure any of the current generation is quite ready.
 
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ArchVape

Princess of the Biscotti Republic
Evic-vt and DNA40 jumping out of TP I notice is becasue of unstable coil build or RDA/RTA with spring loaded connectors. MY Kayfun v4 and Kanger subtank I have experience all kinds of werid problems with them on a rDNA40 and the Evic VT.Evic and SX both use lock function to remember what's the cold resistance value of your coil to get more accurate baseline.

Still amazed at how well and clean the coil is with TP. Usally my coils look like shit with tons of carbon build up on it after afew grams thur it. 3 grams 2 weeks and the coil looks new still :p

WP_20150625_09_03_43_Pro_1.jpg
 
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2clicker

Observer
Haven't been posting, but haven't stopped trying, for the kingdom if I can ...

This sort of setup has been the best one hitter for me. 15 turns 28 gauge kanthal A1 onto a 7/64 drill bit. Measures 2.3 ohms. The oxidized stainless steel roll serves as a catcher, or even a reservoir. On a standard 3.7 volt mechmod, it takes 30 seconds to reach a dull red max temp, around 600 degrees F. By then all the erl fractions have gradually distilled into me head. No burning - because the erl meets a large surface that is gradually heating up. A wire that pops yellow hot slices through the erl and burns it at the wire, without even warming the rest.


20150615_004929x_zpsw5guftsg.jpg



This rig has been good for lazy Northern California afternoon hemp tastings. The coil has just been torched and dry burned clean, the next erl sample is being applied. There's no reclaim. Every portion boils off completely.

Tanks and cartos are another story, they all have a place, as long as we don't burn/waste/toxify the erl.

OF COURSE: the next phase is gonna be perfect temp control so we don't have to worry about burning any material or any wick. I'm just not sure any of the current generation is quite ready.

you may want to eliminate dry burning. or letting your coils get red hot. could be very bad for you.

and a few weeks ago i would have agreed that temp control isnt quite there yet. it is now tho. the Evic is very effective as are the YiHi boards from what i gather.

interesting take on the SS mesh wick. being a hollow tube and all... i may need to try that.
 

fernand

Well-Known Member
@2clicker I didn't mean keeping the pedal to the metal after all the erl has boiled off makes sense. But with the thicker wire, 2.3 ohms is a "totally different" 2.3 ohms than with hair-thin wire. It takes 30 seconds vs half a second to reach glow, meaning you can set a voltage, a wattage, or just run on a mechanical, low tech and cheap, and you don't have to worry about burning, and without temp control.The price? A slower heat-up. I don't mind.

But I'm curious, why would dry burning or torching the coil be unhealthy?
 
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fernand,

makisupacurtain

Well-Known Member
Ive been rocking an IPV mini 2 with a RDA Tohb V2 atty clone with a wickless fused clapton consisting of 36, 34, and 32 gauge kanthal. Gives me full flavor powerful hits that are so nice I have not used my enail in almost a month. Used to use kiln treated ceramic XC116 with a fused clapton around it, but have since moved to wickless because its much better for flavor.

My only issue becomes that eventually the deck becomes full with runoff. Any suggestions besides using a wick that might help this out.

Also if I want to put my own wickless fused clapon into a rebuildable tank style so I dont have to load every time, what would y'all suggest?
 
makisupacurtain,

2clicker

Observer
@2clicker, why would dry burning or torching the coil be unhealthy?

well getting the wire red hot causes oxidation on the kanthal and when that mixes with liquid (or in our case errl) it vapes right along with it. and you inhale it. now the jury is out on how dangerous this can be, but most seem to think its bad news.

i had a long conversation with a MFG about this and they told me to NEVER allow the coil to glow. i am taking their word for it.

also, its dif for us than with those using these devices for juice. with juice your coil should always be submerged in liquid. this liquid keeps the coils temp below glowing temps. with our use, unless you are drowning the coil in errl, then the coil gets considerably hotter considerably faster.

on my evic... when in TC mode, maxed out wattage, and maxed out temp... the coil never gets near glowing. no matter how long i fire it. it stays below those temps. so with temp control this is an issue of the past. not to mention you can pass it to a newb and they wont burn their dab by firing for too long.

Ive been rocking an IPV mini 2 with a RDA Tohb V2 atty clone with a wickless fused clapton consisting of 36, 34, and 32 gauge kanthal. Gives me full flavor powerful hits that are so nice I have not used my enail in almost a month. Used to use kiln treated ceramic XC116 with a fused clapton around it, but have since moved to wickless because its much better for flavor.

My only issue becomes that eventually the deck becomes full with runoff. Any suggestions besides using a wick that might help this out.

Also if I want to put my own wickless fused clapon into a rebuildable tank style so I dont have to load every time, what would y'all suggest?

can u post pics of your wickless build please?
 

fernand

Well-Known Member
I have no worries dry-burning kanthal to clean it. The oxides are rather well bound to the wire. I'm far less eager to inhale burning erl.

E-liquid flows/wicks fast enough to keeps the submerged coil's temp down. Erl doesn't wick as well, so it's all the more critical to keep the temp down by other means, like using a "slower" coil made from a thicker and longer wire. Or a temp control rig.

And it looks like the evic-VT can also work at low voltage or 1 or 2 watts, at last!

What I can't understand is why anyone glows their coil in vaping erl, as those temps are decomposing part of the erl into carbon monoxide, carbon dioxide, hydrogen cyanide, benzene, small hydrocarbons, etc.

I think it's by analogy to a Ti nail. But a red hot Ti nail is different. It either flash-vaporizes the erl, with a gas layer protecting it from burning, or cools down enough by dab time to just gently boil it off.

I do believe it IS a good way to clean the coil and wick. What was the context of your long conversation with a manufacturer? were they saying any kind of coil should never be allowed to glow? That can't be.
 
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fernand,
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2clicker

Observer
I do believe it IS a good way to clean the coil and wick. What was the context of your long conversation with a manufacturer? were they saying any kind of coil should never be allowed to glow? That can't be.

yes actually. this person told me that any wire that gets red hot has the potential to add nasties into your vape. well basically he was saying that it DOES add nasties. so your saying the oxides bond to the wire so well that they wont separate? or is that just kanthal? i attempted to run some Ti wire on a mech. the first coil was glowing in few seconds very hot. it produced some crazy yellow/white film (i assumed this was oxide) on it of which flake off very easily. you could even blow on the wire and the film would come off in specs. scared me off of Ti wire. until temp control.

now i have never seen this with kanthal and i have abused my share of kanthal coils, but i still wonder. then when i spoke to this guy and he stressed NEVER letting ANY wire glow. it was more than just oxides he was concerned with now that i think about it more. ill have to try to find his posts. i guess something else that should be taken into consideration is the fact that he was developing a new TC device designed for Ti wire only. so maybe he was attempting to scare people into buying his device...? he seemed damn sincere, but i gave up waiting after a while and im not sure if his device ever made it to market or not. so from the sounds of all that... you think this guy was yankin my crank?


And it looks like the evic-VT can also work at low voltage or 1 or 2 watts, at last!

yes, but only in power/kanthal mode. in either of the TC modes you are limited to a 30-60W setting. the TC on my Evic is working really well.




@Phife... how are you like your SXmini? im still considering getting a sxminiJ chip for my cloupor mini. do tell!

@Likes2vape... what about your IPV4?
 

ArchVape

Princess of the Biscotti Republic
@2clicker Titanuim releases titanuim dioxide at 600f which is carcinogenic. Which looks like white ash. The kanth and nichrome dry burning your coil to red hot, the jury is still out on it from what i gather from ecig fourms, vapingunderground,ukvapers,ecf, etc But TEMCO which is the largest US seller of nichrome, kanth, tio2 wire in the US recommond agasint dry burning the wires. Was a smoker for 20 years, been vaping for 6years, using wax for 5years with rda. :)

KAnth and nichrome taste like shit to me even on the first hit. with wax or ejuice can still taste the metal in it. Nichrome much stronger metallic taste then kanth for me. ITs all the same reason why ecig companies want from nichrome to kanthral to Ni200 to Titianuim hehehe. becasue ppl can taste the metal still.. The best flavor I never tasted is with the evic-vt + tio2 single coil @ 540f. OH i use japanese cotton and eyptian cotton for wicking on ejuice. I use FC2000 ceramic wicks for wax. I would never go wickless on a metal coil.
 
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ArchVape

Princess of the Biscotti Republic
WP_20150625_17_53_08_Pro_1.jpg


This KISS cart makes rebuilding super easy and fast. I can fit it in any glass globe type atomizer mount. I find that i need that ceramic cup... works better with one then without.

I have Ankylosing Spondylits and have very limited movements with my hips, back and legs. Been using CBD and THC wax combos to fight AS.
 
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