Advanced E-cig users and oil/wax, how-to "one-hitter-quitter"

[MileHighLife]

no not new. i use ceramic personally. i use RXW of which is a braided ceramic wick (called ready x wick) or the fc-2000 stuff that many others use (same shit used in most of the premade attys like the uptech stuff).

i never had much luck going wickless, but a temp limiting device may change that.



you got a VF mini? nice! where did you order from, what did it cost you, and how long did it take to arrive on the slow boat?



and to add even more options to temp mod game... there are now a couple of dif models coming soon that claim they can control temp on a KANTHAL build! there are lots of vapers who are challenging these claims, but the MFGs swear its for real. time will tell.

I preordered it on fasttech over a month ago for $50 and it took about a week to get here once it finally shipped.

Innokin claims their iTC will have temp control for all wire types. I'm thinking that could be great with the Yocan Exgo W4 atty as it uses a nichrome foil heating element. Yocans "nero" heating elements are really cool you should check em out if you haven't already.

 

[2clicker]

I preordered it on fasttech over a month ago for $50 and it took about a week to get here once it finally shipped.

Innokin claims their iTC will have temp control for all wire types. I'm thinking that could be great with the Yocan Exgo W4 atty as it uses a nichrome foil heating element. Yocans "nero" heating elements are really cool you should check em out if you haven't already.

yep im excited about all the new stuff coming out. im hesitant to buy right now even tho a solid TL device can be had for $50-60.

im not opposed to working with nickel, but i hear it can be a challenge to build with.

 

[fogvalley]

You guys see the new joyetech evic vt? It takes ti or ni

 

[2clicker]

You guys see the new joyetech evic vt? It takes ti or ni

yep i believe someone on here has one on order...?

you can actually use Ti wire on a device meant for nickel. you just have to do a little math to get it working properly.

 

[jumanji]

guys im interested in getting this

https://www.fasttech.com/product/2074202-tesla-invader-ii-wood-mechanical-box-mod

what RDA will work with concentrates?

Also, what batteries, battery charger do you recommend with that?

anything else I need to order? wicks, coils etc.

how do i clean it after the coil or rda gets dirty?

how often do i need to build the wick and coil?

i keep hearing ppl say satay above 0.5 ohms how do I ensure this?

Basically I want an RDA mod but found it so complicated and information is jumbled up in this thread.

 

[2clicker]

guys im interested in getting this

https://www.fasttech.com/product/2074202-tesla-invader-ii-wood-mechanical-box-mod

what RDA will work with concentrates?

Also, what batteries, battery charger do you recommend with that?

anything else I need to order? wicks, coils etc.

how do i clean it after the coil or rda gets dirty?

how often do i need to build the wick and coil?

i keep hearing ppl say satay above 0.5 ohms how do I ensure this?

Basically I want an RDA mod but found it so complicated and information is jumbled up in this thread.

stay tuned

 

[Mark larkner]

Sometimes I wonder how you damn pot heads are so far behind
here is what you need:
22 Guage nickel wire (not nichrome)
2 Imr 18650 20 amp or higher batteries
Ipv4 by p4y (100 watt device with TEMP CONTROLL)
and just about any RDA

go online and watch riptrippers obnoxious ass built some "stove top" coils build 2 of these and insert them in your rda only build them small and tightly wound and place them flat like they would be on a stove. Now set your ipv4 to about 360 degrees and paste your wax on there hit the fire button and blamo.

This should pretty much end this post haha or just buy an oil rig that has a 510 connection

Mod note: posts merged

 

[2clicker]

Sometimes I wonder how you damn pot heads are so far behind
here is what you need:
22 Guage nickel wire (not nichrome)
2 Imr 18650 20 amp or higher batteries
Ipv4 by p4y (100 watt device with TEMP CONTROLL)
and just about any RDA

go online and watch riptrippers obnoxious ass built some "stove top" coils build 2 of these and insert them in your rda only build them small and tightly wound and place them flat like they would be on a stove. Now set your ipv4 to about 360 degrees and paste your wax on there hit the fire button and blamo.

This should pretty much end this post haha or just buy an oil rig that has a 510 connection

Mod note: posts merged

end this post? how so?

your wickless coil is going to drop oil all over the deck and possibly provide questionable flavor. not to mention if you are trying to run this setup thru glass... that once you turn it upside down and hit the fire button you are going to lose almost the entire dab to the cap of the RDA.

i applaud your enthusiasm, but your setup can still be improved upon.

also not everyone has the time to scan the internet for this info. some of us do, but others are clueless because of the amount of info avail and its quality. no need to belittle them because they do not have your knowledge of this equipment.

guys im interested in getting this

https://www.fasttech.com/product/2074202-tesla-invader-ii-wood-mechanical-box-mod

what RDA will work with concentrates?

- pretty much any of them that can fit the style of coil/wick that you like.

Also, what batteries, battery charger do you recommend with that?

- i would suggest Samsung 25r cells and a nitecore D2 or D4 charger

anything else I need to order? wicks, coils etc.

- you will need wire and wick material. some have luck with wickless coils, but they can be quite finicky and a PITA to load and use.

how do i clean it after the coil or rda gets dirty?

- this totally depends on how often you use it. the more you use it the faster the coil/wick will gunk up and need to be cleaned/replaced.

how often do i need to build the wick and coil?

- similar to the last reply this depends on your usage habits. as well as the type of wick you are using. mine get replaced about every 5 or 6 weeks, but i use ReadyXWick and it can be cleaned. after enough cleanings tho it needs to be replaced as it will start to break down.

i keep hearing ppl say satay above 0.5 ohms how do I ensure this?

- you et yourself an ohms meter. when you build a coil you install it into the RDA. screw the RDA onto your ohms meter and turn it on. the meter will display the coils resistance. after a couple of builds you will know what size wire and what style of coil produce your ideal resistance. for errl i personally like 1ohm coil, but i have not ventured into temp limiting yet.

Basically I want an RDA mod but found it so complicated and information is jumbled up in this thread.

- so the "mod" and "RDA". are two dif components. the mod is where the battery is housed and powers the RDA. the RDA screws onto the mod. the RDA houses the coil/wick and is where you load the oil. my advice is to find a mod that you like. there are many options avail. mechanical style, variable voltage/wattage mods, and temperature limiting mods.

im sure this is A LOT to take in. if you want to know about all the dif mods and RDAs avail then check out some e-cig forums. then when you know the type of device you like you can come here and get the info on how to use them for oil.

i answered your questions IN your post quoted above. i would have done multiple quotes with individual answers, but im on a phone and that would take forever.

 

[MileHighLife]

Sometimes I wonder how you damn pot heads are so far behind
here is what you need:
22 Guage nickel wire (not nichrome)
2 Imr 18650 20 amp or higher batteries
Ipv4 by p4y (100 watt device with TEMP CONTROLL)
and just about any RDA

go online and watch riptrippers obnoxious ass built some "stove top" coils build 2 of these and insert them in your rda only build them small and tightly wound and place them flat like they would be on a stove. Now set your ipv4 to about 360 degrees and paste your wax on there hit the fire button and blamo.

This should pretty much end this post haha or just buy an oil rig that has a 510 connection

Mod note: posts merged

I agree with 2clicker. While you're on the right path with temp control you may want to refine your build.

 

[DabComa]

From watching videos of people using the temp control I've noticed that all it really did is decrease (or control it rather) the wattage in an attempt to limit the power decreasing the heat generated on the circuit.... so I just bought a heatvape mini , and even though it has temp control, I don't think I'll be using it before I just simply try running my oil attys at low wattages, like 10 or less, this should effectively eliminate over heating. I'm gonna build and put a pic of my derringer with a wickless stovetop. By controlling the power with such an evenly distributed element, I should in theory be able to get much more hits per pack and be able to pack a lot without worry of run off.

now all I have to do is make some erl to test this theory

 

[MileHighLife]

Been a while since I posted any pics in this thread. Here's my current setup:

VF Mini and custom built Seego Glacier atomizer using 30ga ni200 wire and fc2000 wick.

If anyone is interested in rebuilding these or similar style coils like the alpha centauri or the ebob 2 in 1 I could do a quick write up for you ... just ask.

For shits and giggles here's the modded temp control ebob 2in 1

Yeah ... it's got a percolator

Waiting on my Alpha Centauri to show up so I have something new to play with

 

[2clicker]

From watching videos of people using the temp control I've noticed that all it really did is decrease (or control it rather) the wattage in an attempt to limit the power decreasing the heat generated on the circuit.... so I just bought a heatvape mini , and even though it has temp control, I don't think I'll be using it before I just simply try running my oil attys at low wattages, like 10 or less, this should effectively eliminate over heating. I'm gonna build and put a pic of my derringer with a wickless stovetop. By controlling the power with such an evenly distributed element, I should in theory be able to get much more hits per pack and be able to pack a lot without worry of run off.

now all I have to do is make some erl to test this theory

actually @DabComa it wont work that way. ive got a vv/vw device and have it set at 7 watts. it just takes longer for it to heat up and get red hot. it will not limit power after the coil gets to a certain temp.

ive run it at 7 watts with an array of dif coil resistances. they all get too hot if you hold the button long enough. and in not talking a big dif in time either. maybe a few more seconds tops.

if you want to limit the coils temp the temp sensing devices are the only way. currently at least.

let us know what you think of your invader mini. been close to pulling the trigger on one myself. but i also like the look of the VF Mini and a couple of others.

 

[AnthoFranco]

VF Mini and custom built Seego Glacier atomizer using 30ga ni200 wire and fc2000 wick.

@MileHighLife , how does the Ni200 taste compared to Ti or ceramic?

For shits and giggles here's the modded temp control ebob 2in 1

yup, that ebob is pretty interesting. ive been looking into it......

 

[MileHighLife]

@MileHighLife , how does the Ni200 taste compared to Ti or ceramic?



yup, that ebob is pretty interesting. ive been looking into it......

The wire itself doesn't produce any type of off taste or flavor at all if that's what you mean. The setup produces better flavor than my ceramic, titanium or quartz nails, though. But I use them through water and water destroys flavor quickly imo.

The ebob is cool but it's kinda finicky.

 

[jpdnkstr]

I am, by no means, an experienced coil builder, and I prefer building with Ni.

 

[MileHighLife]

I am, by no means, an experienced coil builder, and I prefer building with Ni.

Me either ... it's nice for wrapping coils for sure. The seego/cloupor/w9tech coils are kind of weird to rebuild though. You have to keep tension on the wire leads as you insert the insulator and center pin and it's really easy to ruin a ni coil during this process because it's so malleable. You can see in the pic of my coil that I accidentally pulled a bit hard on one of the leads and messed the coil up a bit on the left side.

I asked thcscientific if we could get some rebuildable coil assemblies for the Alpha Centauri and gave him a rough sketch idea but I'm not sure if he's on board. If anyone else is interested in a rebuildable atomizer that is actually built to be used with concentrates please voice your opinion in the Persei thread.

 

[DabComa]

Ok I've had the chance to test it out briefly and it seems to be working great so far. By keepimg the wattage real low, like 11, its much gentler on the oil itself and doesnt make it runoff instantly. While it will reach max temp, it wont as fast or near as hard as higher wattages. This is especially important when you hand your device to a novice who decides to hit it like a champ and just burn off everything in one blast of coughing fits. In the pic below I do have my derringer on a 18350 mech mod, but with a 1.4 ohm coil, its pulling a little over 11 watts, which seems to be a very good area for me. Keep in mind, your not gonna blow out train clouds at lower wattages, but youll get more hits that are tastier out of it, even though I can just crank it to 50 watts and get rig performance, but when I smoke oil, I prefer not to exhale a storm, when its all concentrated THC, most of the visible exhale is just wasted $$$.

By the way, its a 1.4 ohm 0.08 kanthal ribbon wired in whats called a hurricane coil, which is kinda hard to see because of the shitty camera HTC decided to put on the M9.

Ok so for the pics:

I love this derringer atty simply for the fact that it has 2 wells, that can easily be used to take advantage of run off prevention, and being such a small atty, delivers awesome flavor. I have to lighter in the pictures to provide a size reference of my device.

And by the way @2clicker, Loving the heatvape mini, not a single complaint. Hits hard and fast with virtually no delay or voltage drop. It was raining today so I decided to test out the water resistance, by throwing it on concrete in puddles of water, multiple times. Not a scratch on it, picked it up and started vaping again like nothing ever happened. I see this think lasting a freaking long time. Best 50$ mod ever lol.

 

[arrr]

@MileHighLife that boom looks pretty nice. Can it be rebuilt? Does it leak?

This place is selling em for $15.http://www.boomvaporizer.com/BOOM-ebob-2-in-1-price-free-shipping

If I didn't have an kiss AC otw I would probably buy it.

 

[MileHighLife]

@MileHighLife that boom looks pretty nice. Can it be rebuilt? Does it leak?

This place is selling em for $15.http://www.boomvaporizer.com/BOOM-ebob-2-in-1-price-free-shipping

If I didn't have an kiss AC otw I would probably buy it.

Yeah they can be rebuilt and no it doesn't leak. It's made by cloupor ... I think you said you were rebuilding cloupor coils already, right? It's pretty cool but I suggest removing the ball bearing in the perc as it gets stuck in place pretty easily after a few hits due to resin build up and is completely unnecessary unless someone decides blow into the drip tip. I also use a 70mm tall drip tip (not in the picture) to avoid water in the mouth and removed the disc perc thing as it only helps to stack bubbles into your mouth. With those 3 mods it's great but stock it's pretty finicky.

 

[arrr]

Yeah they can be rebuilt and no it doesn't leak. It's made by cloupor ... I think you said you were rebuilding cloupor coils already, right? It's pretty cool but I suggest removing the ball bearing in the perc as it gets stuck in place pretty easily after a few hits due to resin build up and is completely unnecessary unless someone decides blow into the drip tip. I also use a 70mm tall drip tip (not in the picture) to avoid water in the mouth and removed the disc perc thing as it only helps to stack bubbles into your mouth. With those 3 mods it's great but stock it's pretty finicky.

Yeah I rebuild the cloupur 2 which they discontinued... I broke the glass (it still works but who knows how long) to the cloupur thus why I purchase the kiss ac. Not sure why they discontinued it as it was my favorite out of all the wax attys I have tried. I hope the kiss AC is better than my cheapo modified cloupor only time will tell.

So your go to is the glacier? Where do you purchased from?

I recently rebuilt it with the 2mm RDX wick and 1.7 ohm nr-r-nr wire. I curved it inside the cup but this left the air whole wide open. So I put a small piece of RDX wick over the air whole. This thing hits great it's just a little hot with my mech mod I am thinking 2.0 ohm would be better.

 

[MileHighLife]

Yeah I rebuild the cloupur 2 which they discontinued... I broke the glass (it still works but who knows how long) to the cloupur thus why I purchase the kiss ac. Not sure why they discontinued it as it was my favorite out of all the wax attys I have tried. I hope the kiss AC is better than my cheapo modified cloupor only time will tell.

So your go to is the glacier? Where do you purchased from?

I recently rebuilt it with the 2mm RDX wick and 1.7 ohm nr-r-nr wire. I curved it inside the cup but this left the air whole wide open. So I put a small piece of RDX wick over the air whole. This thing hits great it's just a little hot with my mech mod I am thinking 2.0 ohm would be better.

Yeah the glacier is my go to ... hopefully my ac will replace it though. I bought a couple of the glacier kits when they were still $13 a pc on ebay but they just raised the price to $35. I can't really recommend buying one at that price as I don't think they're worth that much.

 

[growinsmoke]

Hey guys,

I check out this thread a long time ago when it was much smaller. There's been quite a bit of development since then.

I use a simple iTaste vv v4, and have found it is enough power for my RBA builds as well as one of the glass domes I've tried. I am limited to 1 ohm coils and higher, but even with a 1.5 ohm I never need to turn it up over 4v or so I really liked the overall design of the dome, but I broke it. I know how to rebuild these domes, so I thought I'd get another, but If there is another good RDA out there with a deep well I would go that route just for durability.

I only need a single coil build, and am having a hard time finding an RDA meant for a single coil with an open center. Ideally, I would fill the center of the well up with one of the pancake "diamond back coils".

Sorry, I really don't want to go back and read the whole thing. I am skimming through it for pictures the best I can though.

 

[Phife]

Two more potential RDA's for Oil/Wax. Both have similar decks. Two posts spaced apart with lots of room in the center.

Hobo V3 (Nice and Small, should be great flavor)- https://www.fasttech.com/products/2489000

Velocity RDA - https://www.fasttech.com/products/2482500

 

[growinsmoke]

I guess I should also mention I would like to be able to get it in the next week. But I do like the look of the Hobo.

Side question:

Are those glass globes pretty universal? I see some replacements but I don know what fits my topoo branded parts.

 

[Likes2vape]

I

I guess I should also mention I would like to be able to get it in the next week. But I do like the look of the Hobo.

Side question:

Are those glass globes pretty universal? I see some replacements but I don know what fits my topoo branded parts.

I have found the globes to be pretty universal on may fit looser or tighter over another but they all seem pretty universal.

I have given up on temp control with the IPv4 It keeps giving the dry coil warning. It was fine for a day or so but became super finicky.

Lately I've been using fc200 with a readyxwick placed on top and wrapped with ti. I like it a lot but I'm going try folding the readyxwick over on itself next time for even more absorption.